Brake bleeding process - Page 6 - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums
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post #51 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 11:40 AM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

I was trying to see what I was misunderstanding about henni's suggestion.

I've done the brakes multiple times, but with the vacuum source, I've always gotten more air leakage around the threads than I would like. If I tighten the screw to minimize the leak, I also reduce the flow of brake fluid. I'm comfy that I have a good seal on the tube connecting to the bleeder screw. I've not found a happy spot with the vacuum method.

OTOH, the pressure method works great, but the device I used sucked (pun intended) when sealing the cap over the fluid reservoir. The universal cap simply would not seal and hold a positive psi without leaking.

Of course these are all solo methods. Next time I may draft one of the kids (if they're around) when I do a brake fluid change and just use the two-person method.

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post #52 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 12:58 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

Sounds like you're unscrewing the bleeder valve just a little too much, speed. There's a happy medium between opening the valve enough to pull out the old fluid and opening it too much to the point the vacuum is lost via air escaping from the threads. I've never had a problem with this using the pneumatic bleeder.
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post #53 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 01:56 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

You may be right. But too little on the bleeder screw and not much happens. There must be a very fine line between too little and too much turn of the bleeder screw.

My best results were with the Motive Power Bleeder except for that pressurization leak. If they could make a cap for Honda's reservoir, that would work much better than the universal cap they send.

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post #54 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 02:05 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

The pneumatic bleeder will tolerate some loss of vacuum at the bleeder screw threads and still operate with enough efficiency to pull the old fluid out. I set my air compressor on about 90 psi when using the pneumatic bleeder and have gone higher than that on some vehicles. I can feel air escaping from around the bleeder screw threads at times, but it still has sufficient vacuum pressure to overcome that leaking and pull the old fluid out. Since it's under vacuum, there's no danger of introducing air back into the system, either.
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post #55 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-26-2012, 04:31 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

Agreed. Using the Mityvac for a vacuum source for brake fluid exchange was more tedious than I anticipated.

I NEED to get an air compressor.

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post #56 of 76 (permalink) Old 12-27-2012, 06:43 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

Funny but I bleed my Ford SUV Ford, I had help although never thought we had good timing as far as closing the valve. The brakes have never been as tight as they are now, I still need to do it again to completely renew the fluid since I just barely top it off and I did not even follow an order per line on it.
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post #57 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 12:22 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

Bled my Ridgeline Brakes over the weekend, I used like 1 bottle and 1/4 of another. I waited until clean fluid came out and then sucked even more on all 4 lines, they feel tighter but I will need front pads soon, I have like 2.5 mm left on them. Maybe next year.

I used the HB brake bleeder that needs an air compressor, no issues
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post #58 of 76 (permalink) Old 06-05-2013, 03:38 PM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

Quote:
Originally Posted by speedlever View Post
You may be right. But too little on the bleeder screw and not much happens. There must be a very fine line between too little and too much turn of the bleeder screw.
.
Yes, there typically is. If you just leave a curve of tubing above the screw, there's no need to monitor the screw and do the open/close thing. There is very little backflow, and what there is is just the fluid that was in the caliper five seconds prior.

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post #59 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 09:07 AM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

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Originally Posted by IanRTL View Post
Yeah, the bleeder screws don't have to be opened much to get the fluid to come out. You also don't have to tighten them much. I think the recommended torque is only 7 ft/lbs.
After replacing a front caliper on my Fiero many years ago, I thought the spec read 11 ft./lbs. Only after stripping the threads and ruining a brand new caliper did I realize it was 11 in./lbs. It's worth double checking.

My rear brakes have started to squeal slightly just before coming to a stop this past week at 49K miles. I haven't visually inspected them yet, but went ahead and ordered new front and rear pads this morning. I've always dreaded and avoided bleeding brakes because I never have help and never invested in a "one-man" brake bleeding system. The last brake bleed I remember doing was on my Regal almost a decade ago - the brakes never felt quite the same after that.



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post #60 of 76 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014, 09:52 AM
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Re: Brake bleeding process

Just saw this thread for the first time, and it may have been mentioned previously. If you have enough time (allow 2 hours), it is possible to gravity bleed the brakes by yourself without buying any extra tools or an air compressor. You do need a can of brake cleaner and a jack.

Remove top from brake fluid reservoir and remove as much brake fluid as possible. A turkey baster or large syringe usually works well. If you don't want to purchase a turkey baster, use a clean rag and just soak up the brake fluid and squeeze it out of the rag. Carefully and slowly refill reservoir with clean fluid. BRAKE FLUID EATS PAINT...BE CAREFUL.

Lift the truck or jack up one wheel, remove the tire/wheel in Honda's recommended order. Place a catch basin under the caliper. Crack the bleed screw and just let it drip until the fluid runs clear. Check reservoir regularly and refill as necessary. BRAKE FLUID EATS PAINT...BE CAREFUL.

Close bleed screw. Spray caliper area with brake cleaner to remove excess fluid.

Repeat process on each wheel in order. One six pack of beer should be enough.
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