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Originally Posted by 06grnridge
Hi folks,
After about 2,500 miles on the lower set up (Spring Tech springs) I decided to go back to stock...why?
Here are my reasons:
1. Rear camber negative offset was 1.90 degrees --- that is pretty bad guys
2. Rough ride, at times unbearable
3. With the tow hitch mounted, the front of the car is higher by about .3-.5", since the rear seems to sag a bit
4. You pretty much loose the towing ability and the cargo...only about 400 will put so much stress on the rear axle that the mufler is about 3'' off the ground.
5. No available camber kit - an none in R&D
6. ONE OF THE REAR SHOCKS STARTED LEAKING - NOT NECESSARILY LINKED TO THE LOWER SUSPENSION, BUT VERY COINCIDENTAL TO ME.
It looked awesome if you could get over the camber issue for the rear axle and you get lots of people looking at your truck like it came from Mars...
I will reconsider later an Eibach pro-kit, with a 1.5'' drop and a proper camber kit. I have a feeling that no other reputable suspension company will develop any kits for this truck...too bad the upper arm is not adjustable.
THINK VERY HARD BEFORE YOU DECIDE TO DO IT...IT ALSO COST ME ABOUT $1,000 (including 2 installations, 2 awd alignments and the spring set)
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Did the alignment tech adjust the camber on the rear end of your RL after it was lowered? There is a way to adjust the camber about 2 degrees that is already built into the vehicle. The reason I ask this is that most if all Hondas share this camber issue when lowered and some alignment techs no nothing of how to adjust the rear camber on a Honda. I have to admit that used to do alignments when I worked as a mechanic and didn't know about the camber adjustment either because I never had to use it because I never aligned any lowered Hondas. I had this same issue when I lowered my 3rd gen Accord. It took 3 alignment techs all staring at my setup to figure out that this adjustment actually existed. The first 2 had never even used this adjustment before.
The reason they had to do a group discussion in the first place was that the suspension was so modified on my Accord that none of them alone could figure out how to align it. The front suspension on the Accord has no camber adjustment so to get around this, many of us gutted 2nd gen Preludes of their front suspensions and modified them to fit on Accords. Now, the Accord could be dropped as much as 3 inches without an alignment problem and the tech had to end up using the alignment settings for a Prelude in the front and the settings for the Accord in the back. Using this combination, the car rode literally like it was on rails. You could exit pretty much any freeway exit ramp loop at 65 plus mph without even squealing the tires.
As a side note though, you have to drive the car very very gently if you don't want to go through struts on the car. One or 2 5" deep potholes was enough to fry a strut. This is because with the lowered suspension, you are operating the strut out of it's optimal range of travel. I suspect that we might have the same problem with lowered RL's.