HONDA Dealer installed Electronic Corrosion Control

[blconnection]

There are a couple of other threads on this. Rather than repeating Here is one of the threads:

Electronic rust module?

[Mac]

Originally Posted by FL_Ridge

If you genuinely plan to keep the vehicle long enough for Rust to be an issue, whether or not the module works is irellevant. To have that extra rust-through protection guarantee is probably worth $700 in and of itself.

Whether or not you'll collect on the warranty is yet to be seen. If the company goes out of business you may not be able to enforce the coverage.

I live in an area where the liberal use of salt on the roads in the winter is the precursor to a rust-bucket. I agree that the probability of the Ridgeline (or any Honda) rusting out in 7or 8 years is low but call me anal - I don't even like seeing oxidaion on the aluminum under the hood! My 2006 Ridgeline LX had the nasty white powder appearing here and there on the engine and rust appearing on fittings on the chasis and that one wasn't fitted with the ECC. FL_Ridge has nailed it "To have that extra rust-through protection guarantee is probably worth $700 in and of itself." The warranty is for the life of the vehicle and I hope the company is around to honor the claim!
This winter will be the test and I hope for the Honda dealer sales manager's reputation the ECC lives up to it's reputation. You'll know if I'm offering mine for sale next spring!

MAC

[Alfer]

Mac: Good to hear from another Northerner, I am near you in Orillia. Have had my RL for a year in Oct. and find that it did well through last winter, even a long trip to Pickle Lake at Xmas and back. I to hate to see even small amounts of white corrosion develope under the hood so I have thought of the system you are using.

Like most I can't find too much info on how well it works, with the warranty info you gave it looks like you may do well.

One thing that I have been doing with all my vehicles is after I wash it, and rinse the engine compartment, I spray everything under the hood with WD-40. I have done this for a long time and find it works very well for things under the hood, you know all of thoes nuts,bolts & little metal relay boxes etc. I have had dealers make comments to me when they service my vehicle as to why they do not see any of that type of corrosion in the engine compartment. I do the same thing every year when I put my Goldwing away for the winter, spray the whole thing with WD-40. It's an 1986 and looks like new.

Also even in the coldest winter days I still take her to the car wash every week, I find that it just makes sense to get all that salt off as often as possible.

Keep us posted on your ECC system

ALfer

[Digital Aura]

You guys are looking at this all wrong.
How much does it cost you to oil-guard / Krown / whatever your vehicle every year? $100 right? And that's just rustproofing the BOTTOM!

This thing claims to rustproof THE WHOLE TRUCK. I bought the 10 year rust and paint warranty (includes the Paint job from fading as well as the ECC module) for $700 (Canadian dollars). I don't even care if this thing works...because the way I figure, if they guarantee no rust or fading of paint for TEN YEARS it's gotta be worth $100 per year like the aforementioned products.

BARGAIN!

[CP Guy]

I just purchased (8-11-2007) a 2007 Ridgeline RTL, and I'm new to this forum, but I could not pass by this post w/o offering my comments.

I am a corrosion engineer (by profession) and if your "electronic corrosion system" is what I believe it to be, you've been conned. These type of systems have marketed by snake-oil salemen over the last 20 years and the were the subject of court cases that challenged their efficacy for automotive corrosion control.

CP (electronic corrosion control) is used on underground tanks and pipelines, the interiors of water storage tanks, and steel rebar in concrete to control corrosion. The fundamental prinicipal of a typical cathodic protection (CP) system is that the structure and the anodes have to be buried in soil, submerged in water, or embedded in concrete to function. Since I doubt that you intend to have your vehicle buried in soil, submerged in water, or embedded in concrete, I'm curious as to how your electronic corrosion control system would work.

[csimo]

Originally Posted by Jeff Schramuk

I just purchased (8-11-2007) a 2007 Ridgeline RTL, and I'm new to this forum, but I could not pass by this post w/o offering my comments.

I am a corrosion engineer (by profession) and if your "electronic corrosion system" is what I believe it to be, you've been conned. These type of systems have marketed by snake-oil salemen over the last 20 years and the were the subject of court cases that challenged their efficacy for automotive corrosion control.

CP (electronic corrosion control) is used on underground tanks and pipelines, the interiors of water storage tanks, and steel rebar in concrete to control corrosion. The fundamental prinicipal of a typical cathodic protection (CP) system is that the structure and the anodes have to be buried in soil, submerged in water, or embedded in concrete to function. Since I doubt that you intend to have your vehicle buried in soil, submerged in water, or embedded in concrete, I'm curious as to how your electronic corrosion control system would work.

Jeff,

As you already know... these systems DO NOT WORK. You can't change physics or chemistry and both render these systems worthless. It is flat out impossible for these systems to work.

Unfortunately there are crooks out there that will sell anything to people who either don't know any better or who refuse to acknowledge truth.

It's a sad situation, but at some point in time you just have to realize some people deserve exactly what they get - ripped off.

[djeaux]