[G2Turbo]

Originally Posted by Cochise111

I wish you luck in preventing brake vibration. From lots of experience I'll tell you that when you have a vehicle prone to develop brake vibration the problem lies in wheel bearing run-out rather than rotor warpage. The only way I've been able to resolve such problems is by using a machine to resurface the rotors on the vehicle. In fact, most rotor manufacturers will tell you that rotors don't truly warp at all, but the vibration you feel is from the minute untrue variations in bearing run-out.

Highly interesting comments Cochise. Thanks.

I think this upgrade will do the trick. This truck won't be the only vehicle I've done brake upgrades to. The OE pads are not wearing at all, which indicates to me they don't absorb heat, thus making the rotors absorb more causing warpage. It's typical of almost all vehicles, no matter the price, unless it's a race car (where pad wear is desired [to save the spendy rotors])

Your experience may be valid, and the principal well founded for traditional bearings, where a cup and cone is used. When loose they can cause those symptoms. The ridgeline uses modern sealed beartings that are not adjustable. However in my experience it almost always is because of warped rotors, even on adjustable bearing types. Loose bearings will cause other issues, like wheel balance problems to be worse, or knocking to occurr.

Machining rotors on the vehicle can help as mentioned. It will accommodate for poor fit of rotor to hub assemblies. But a loose bearing will throw the machine off. I've yet to work at at shop that uses one. Even when I was in Tech school we never used that type of machine even though a new one was available.

I strongly disagree about the statement where manufacturers are saying "...rotors don't warp at all". If that were true, then 2 piece rotors wouldn't exist. Also, I would like to see the source on this one. I'm almost certain not one of them would say that.


Have you ever used a Armco disc/drum machine tool? Even moderately warped rotors will laterally wobble quite a bit, causing pedal oscillations. About 0.010" and it becomes noticeable depending on the car and how sensitive the owner is. I've machined probably thousands of rotors and i know that true rotors solve the problem, WAY more than properly adjusted hub bearing.

For those that don't understand the "warping" phenomenon, here's a quick explanation:

The temperature differential between the rotor surface area and the "hat" section that mounts to the hub becomes too much which distorts the metal. This is what causes warped rotors. Part of it is due to the auto makers quasi-negligence with inadequate brake sizing, and brake pads that force rotors to absorb most of the heat. There is plenty of information available on this subject, most of which I got from text books. Anyone with racing brakes or a ultra exotic car will immediately relate- even those that experience brake problems.

Your last statement is completely wrong, sorry. One should not make finite statements that are just plain wrong. No offense, but keep in mind people tend to believe those that make this type of presentation. Hopefully this trend is only limited to this one topic

Anyrate, the comments are great and ultimately people can, and do, learn. Your experience and mileage may vary, as they say.