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RV6 Performance J-pipe REVIEW!!!

95K views 200 replies 60 participants last post by  Converted1 
#1 ·
Hi all,
After talking to Rich at RV6 performance, I decided to be a guinea pig for the rest of you guys and give his ridgeline prototype J-pipe a try.
Please read the removal/install write up and review below.

Truck prior to RV6 install: 2006 RTL w/ AEM intake, 89 octane, 2” truxxx lift, everything else stock.

After talking to Rich at RV6 performance, I decided to be a guinea pig for the rest of you guys and give his prototype J-pipe a try. :act035:

First impressions after receiving the J-pipe;
Damn this thing is shiny, fully polished stainless. The welds were carefully ground down and everything appears top notch quality. The steel appears to be a heavy gauge as well. All gaskets, bolts and nuts were included.
 

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#2 ·
Removal of the OEM j-pipe;
First soak all the nuts and bolts on the oem pipe and cat back flanges with PB blaster. (I have an 06 so there was enough rust to justify a good soaking)

Remove the 3 nuts and bolts on the cat back flange, on the rear side of the mid cat. I believe these were 14mm.

Remove the 3 nuts on the front and 3 nuts on the rear j-pipe flanges attached to the precats. (this may remove the studs from the cats, but not to worry they go back in just fine) I believe these were 14mm.

Remove the cross member (4 bolts)

Remove the exhaust hanger bracket while still attached to the j-pipe. I believe these were 14mm. *Support the j-pipe with jack stands or have a buddy hold it to ensure you do not drop the j-pipe on your head, foot or anything else.

Gently massage the oem j-pipe off with a little wiggling and pulling.

Total removal time took about 10 mins.
 

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#4 ·
Installation of the RV6 Performance j-pipe;
Gently massage the new gaskets and rv6 j-pipe onto the precat studs with a little wiggling and pulling. (I had at least one stud on each precat)

Loosely install the new gasket, 3 nuts and bolts on the cat back flange, on the rear side of the rv6 j-pipe.

Loosely install the 3 nuts on the front and 3 nuts on the rear j-pipe flanges attached to the precats.

Torque the nuts/bolts to oem specs, ensuring the gaskets are sitting correctly before doing so.

Re-install the cross member (4 bolts)

Total install time took about 45 mins. I had a lift to install this, but it’s a driveway friendly mod. I used air tools, but basic using a ratchet and a wrench would be easy too. Tips, clean all the threads on the stud bolts and apply an anti-seize agent when you are installing the pipe. After install check for exhaust leaks before test driving. I found none.
 

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#5 ·
RV6 j-pipe “Performance”
While I had the truck on the lift I tested for leaks, revving and idling the engine. I was in a huge shop bay. The engine sounded stock and quiet, pretty good considering the cat removal. I drove out of the shop and i immediately could tell a difference. Light throttle input response was improved. Pulling out on to the street I did some WOT action. Compared to how the stock j-pipe felt the RV6 j-pipe offered a drastic improvement at low to mid range rpms. There is a tone change in the engine at take off. It produces a soft growl/rasp now. So all in all the ridge did not get any “louder” but the sound did change when pushed hard at WOT on take off. Im not sure you’d notice it or not without an intake. With the intake noise and the j-pipe growl I was having fun dumping on it the whole way home. Overall the ridge just felt more peppy and was able to give more, quicker. I can now get front wheel spin from a standing start. It doesn’t choke when starting from a stop on a steep hill. It runs like it should’ve from the get go.
 

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#6 ·
RV6 j-pipe prototype fitment issues
I’ve put nearly 700miles on this prototype now. These are the issues I’ve found.

Front collector pipe flange and stud tolerance problem.
There is not enough room to install a nut on this stud. This view is taken from the front of the car. So it’s the side opposite of the transmission. Passenger side.
It looks like the collector pipe and flange weren’t welded “centered”. There is a bit of an offset maybe enough to correct it or maybe the problem would still exist. My work around was to grind the flares on the nut. As shown.
There was no way to use a socket to torque this nut to spec. I had to modify a 14mm stubby wrench just to get on it.


Rear collector pipe flange and stud tolerance problem.
There is not enough room to install a nut on this stud. This view is taken from the front of the car. So it’s the side near the transmission. driver side. It looks like the collector pipe and flange weren’t welded “centered”. There is a bit of an offset maybe enough to correct it or maybe the problem would still exist. My work around was to grind the flares on the nut. As shown.
There was no way to use a socket to torque this nut to spec. I had to modify a 14mm stubby wrench just to get on it.
 

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#7 ·
Back collector pipe and the oil pan:
At the half way point of the bend on the collector pipe it nearly touches the oil pan. There is maybe a 1mm of clearance. Its TIGHT!!!
 

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#8 ·
The pitch/angle of the pipe from the midway point to the cat back flange could be adjusted.
As shown there is about an inch of pitch or angle that could be adjusted to tuck the pipe up towards the floor pan.
 

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#9 · (Edited)
Somewhere, someplace, something is vibrating. There’s a soft metal on metal noise when turning and accelerating. Its less noticeable when going straight or reversing. I noticed this after about 40miles of driving with the new j pipe. I’ve looked, shook and wiggled the exhaust to figure out where its occurring but I haven’t found it. I’m going to wait until the metal shows a little wear to pin point it. Rich is aware of this issue.

I'm very happy with the end results and would be ecstatic with the corrections i mentioned.
Im hoping Rich adjusts his Jig and sends me a re-worked prototype soon to test. If it’s the same quality with the above adjustments made I can’t wait to get it installed. :act024:
 
#10 ·
Very nice work Soobie99. Thanks for the post and pics.

Do you anticipate any emissions testing issues with the removal of the cat?
 
#11 ·
Thanks!
No, i do not anticipate any emissions issues. My state (MD) just checks OBDII and doesnt sniff test it.
 
#15 ·
Sounds like there are still some fitment issues but hopefully they can be sorted out and this product becomes readily available to us RL owners.
 
#19 ·
I wonder how this will work with an aftermarket exhaust (Borla used myself). I couldn't imagine it getting too lean just from adding this J pipe. I mean the exhausts are made to incorporate stock J pipe, but perhaps its too little of a change to throw it all off that much.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Changing exhaust has no affect on fuel ratio. and i cant see it having any issues with a aftermarket exhaust as long as the stock j-pipe has not been modified to accommodate the aftermarket exhaust.

and this is awesome!!! It just looks to be needing a little bit of massaging and clearencing.
 
#23 ·
This thing is great looking and I'm sure it give the truck that little performance boost it really needs. Is there an estimated time-frame for full launch and prices?
 
#24 ·
Well Colorado will do a visual inspection from time to time when doing a emissions test. I have the RV6 PCD's installed and feel it would fail the next time I have to go to one of those places. The cool thing is that Colorado also has road side testing which I passed some how. And now I can't wait for the revised J-pipe to be released.
 
#29 ·
Hey- Rich is waiting on some more feedback from me before adjusting the current pipe design to fit better. Its a process, and ridgelines are not the main source of business for him. We're lucky theres anyone out there producing products that make our trucks more enjoyable to drive.

These pipes are worth it in my opinion. The truck is much stronger off the line and so much smoother throughout the power band. It also requires less pedal to get it moving when passing. Also there are dyno charts out there showing gains of 17ft/lbs at the wheels (down low in the rpm range where its needed).
 
#31 · (Edited)
That's not a huge jump, maybe 10%, but if it is all on the low end, that's a good thing! What's the normal torque at the wheels?

Maybe with better exhaust components to the rear as well it could be even more.
 
#33 ·
17 ft/lbs may not seem like much, but if it makes the torque more usable at lower RPM's, you'd most certainly feel it. I would also be interested to see what could be done with the combination of the J-pipe and the aftermarket exhaust. Maybe after that we could add an aftermarket intake and put that old argument to bed to see if there is actually anything to be gained from the change. I'd put my money on a "no". jnc2000 seemed to think there was some big gains to be had by doing the J-pipe and exhaust - maybe up to about 30hp.
 
#35 ·
As an avid driver and tradesman I have had my ups and downs with engine modifications all in the pursuit of more power. I was half owner of VW/Audi/Porsche performance shop for 4 years and in that time I learned that reliable true Hp increases come from 3 main alterations.
1) Increased air flow (better in and out).
2) Bigger motor/bigger displacement (bigger top and bottom, pistons, cam re-grinds, etc.)
3) Re-mapping or stand alone engine management (Motec, etc.).

My preference by a long shot is custom intake manifold, headers, and exhaust systems.

So before I spend a dime on increasing the Hp on my 2006 Honda Ridgeline I need to know if I can get my hands on a well made and designed J pipe upgrade to go along with a good hi flow exhaust system.

Your imput is greatly appreciated.
 
#36 ·
Sounds like it will be available sometime in the near-ish future. It also sounds like you'd have access to the right type of dyno equipment to get a good idea of what this J and a good aftermarket exhaust can do to wake up this truck. In addition to that, once you get those parts on, it would be VERY interesting to see what the numbers would be with the stock air intake and an aftermarket air intake. There has been a lot of talk on here for years saying that an aftermarket intake will do nothing for the performance on this truck because the stock one can outflow what the truck is capable of taking in. It'd be nice to put that to bed!
 
#38 ·
Im trying to figure out a way to secure the pipe and the mid pipe so that it keeps it from jiggling on the cross member and whatever else it hits when the engine is under a load. I've got one idea tested and it seems to help. I need to get pictures and info to Rich still.
 
#40 ·
by the way, i haven't noticed any increase in fuel mileage in city or highway travels.
 
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