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Driver Door Not Locking with FOB

33K views 39 replies 12 participants last post by  paulr79 
#1 ·
Hey all,

I've been searching this site for over a week now in an effort too correct an issue that is beating me. I am no longer able to use my Key FOB to lock the Drivers door. The other three doors lock but not the Drivers. No confirmation Horn nor lights flashing. Here's what I have done thus far;

  • Replaced battery in FOB
  • Replaced Battery and Terminals
  • Replaced Fuse
I am able to use the manual method to lock all doors.

I looked into the Hood Switch but unclear on how to test. I don't get an indication on the dash if the hood is open and not certain if it would indeed affect this issue of mine.

Any input is appreciated.

Cheers,
 
#3 ·
my guess would be the door lock actuator. If thats what it is, cost is about $20-$30 bucks for parts
 
#15 ·
The actuator is a cheap part and a simple test (the last one in Speedlever's post below my first post). All you're testing for is essentially an open circuit and a fairly common problem among Hondas in general. If that passes the test, THEN I'd worry about the "Be-Canadian type A" test.
 
#4 · (Edited)
See if this helps:





I can probably get you the other tests if you want them.
 
#9 ·
The test referred to on 22-139 is about 7 pages of the FSM. I can post that if you want. Not sure it's for the faint of heart though.

Here's a sample (page 1.)


Do you want more?
 
#6 ·
22-147 is the 2nd image above.
 
#8 ·
Have you found that the lock is seized up, or is it working well with the key ?

Sticky lock can prevent the latch assembly from power-locking. Hose the insides of all your locks with aerosol graphite if it's found to be sticking. Don't forget the ignition lock too if it's been neglected.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for this. I'll give this a try.

The weather in Texas is pretty darn good. No salt on roads. I keep my vehicles pretty clean and hand wash only. I don't have any indication that my locking mechanism is clogged with any gooh. Putting a key in the door lock moves easily and freely.

Now I have read a few posts of the hood sensor. I don't see any indicator in the dash that the hood is open. Not certain if that an option on my 06. The posts claim that if any doors including the hood and trunk are not entirely closed, I will get results like I'm reporting. Does anyone know if this is true? I hesitate to pull the door panel(s) off to inspects the locking modules.

Again, thanks for the information. I'll report back my findings hopefully by the weekend.

Cheers,
Rik
 
#14 ·
Now I have read a few posts of the hood sensor. I don't see any indicator in the dash that the hood is open. Not certain if that an option on my 06. The posts claim that if any doors including the hood and trunk are not entirely closed, I will get results like I'm reporting. Does anyone know if this is true? I hesitate to pull the door panel(s) off to inspects the locking modules.

Cheers,
Rik
I just tried this on my '08.
  • With the trunk open: all doors lock but the alarm does not set till it's closed
  • With the hood open: all doors lock but alarm does not set till it's closed
  • With any door open: no doors lock
My truck does not have any indicator that the hood is open.

If it's only the drives door that is giving you problems I believe you'll have to figure out what speedlever posted.
Good luck.
 
#12 ·
B-CAN = Body Controller Area Network. Whatever that means. I think it's a communications bus for the RL.

This stuff makes my eyeballs rotate in my head. ;) Hope it makes sense to you.

 
#16 ·
I'm getting closer but lack the remedy...

While sitting in the drivers seat with the doors closed, I use the switch on the door panel to Lock all doors. All lock except the Drivers. When I manually lock the door, I am able to use the remote to set the security and hear the horn confirmation. That's good.

While sitting in the Drivers seat with doors closed, I use the remote to lock. All doors lock except the Drivers. I can hear what appears to be a clicking noise in the Drivers Door, but the lock does not go down.

Does this sound like the Door Lock Actuator is the issue or am I heading down the wrong road?

Cheers,
Rik
 
#21 ·
Same problem here, started a few weeks ago in my 06 RTL. Really annoying issue. I haven't removed the door panel to check out the actuator, which I suspect is the problem. It is as if it doesn't have enough oomph to lock the driver's door, sometimes the lock stops halfway, sometimes it doesn't move at all.

I'm getting closer but lack the remedy...

While sitting in the drivers seat with the doors closed, I use the switch on the door panel to Lock all doors. All lock except the Drivers. When I manually lock the door, I am able to use the remote to set the security and hear the horn confirmation. That's good.

While sitting in the Drivers seat with doors closed, I use the remote to lock. All doors lock except the Drivers. I can hear what appears to be a clicking noise in the Drivers Door, but the lock does not go down.
 
#17 · (Edited)
ahhh....the dreaded "clicking sound". sounding more and more like the actuator or one of the clips? Once you open the door up you'll know for sure (i'e something obviously broken and hanging or looks normal). Here's a link how to replace the actuator.


Be sure to check those part numbers for your model (I havent checked them)

Side note....ran across this. apparently their investigation started January this year???



Honda and Acura Door Lock Actuator Failure
Practice: Consumer Protection
Phase: Investigation

Chimicles & Tikellis is investigating a proposed class action lawsuit against Honda for alleged premature door lock actuator failure in certain models of Honda and Acura vehicles. These models may contain a defect predisposing the door locks to not lock and/or not unlock electronically as a result of a failed door lock actuator. This problem may result in expensive repairs being needed to the door locking mechanism.
If you have experienced door locking and/or unlocking problems due to a faulty door lock actuator in your Honda or Acura vehicle then please contact one of the following attorneys.

Attorneys to Contact:
Joseph G. Sauder (JosephSauder@chimicles.com)
Matthew D. Schelkopf (MatthewSchelkopf@chimicles.com)
361 West Lancaster Avenue, Haverford, PA 19041 Phone: 610-642-8500

interesting.....
 
#18 ·
Excellent info.
 
#20 ·
Had a 50" plasma tv explode while we were watching it one night....I know all about Samsung.
 
#27 ·
Which model do you have? I picked my plasma up in the Fall 08. Even had it professionally calibrated. Great pic!
So far it has been flawless but they do run hot.

When I purchased it I was told by a few Panasonic was a better choice for reliability, so I purchased an aftermarket 3 yr warranty (Mack) and it expires in a year. The prices for the extended Samsung warranty were outrageous.
 
#23 ·
So has anyone replaced their actuator yet?

:act002:
 
#24 ·
My FIL just had to replace a rear door actuator on his 2006 Lexus RX400H. It happens to 'em all.
 
#25 ·
Agreed. I was just asking because I had suggested this back on post #3 and there has been no response as to whether the initial problem had been fixed or not yet or what was done. In the meantime others are beginning to also post the same problem.
 
#26 · (Edited)
We have a similar (if not the same) problem with our 03 CRV. First clue, no horn beep on 2nd key fob lock press. Checked, driver's door is not locked. Tried everything (beyond dis-assembly at this point) and points to door actuator as the 'most likely' cause. $32 at majestic Honda. I'll need to check further but from what I read on the CRVOC, that's the most common issue.
From inside, all doors lock and unlock except the driver's door.
 
#29 ·
Haha..I wont digress too long..different topic, but after some searches it appears the Samsung power supplies are notorious for giving up .. main reason were under rated caps in the PS. Replacement P/S is about 80 bucks for most models.
Turns out Panasonic was having similar problems, and power supplies in general are the first thing to go in plamas (and some LCDs).
 
#30 ·
wow..we are digressing from original post. Problem with the Samsung TV's were that they were/are getting extremely hot such that if there is any weekness in the glass or how the glassed was installed, you end up with a nice spiderweb break usually from one side along with a simultanious rather large ***POP***. Samsung delays fixing it long enough that they hope you'll just give up and go away....not me. I hounded them every day for 4.5 months until they finally gave up and replaced it (thanks to getting the Better Business Bureau involved).


But I am waiting to hear from one of the original posters that the problems has been solved. Others are posting with similar issues so it would be great if there were a sense of closure on this one they could reference.....hint, hint
 
#32 ·
Good link! All Hondas are similar. I changed the actuator on our CRV. A guide like that would have been better than most the ones I found.
 
#33 ·
Here's a crazy question.. has anyone every further investigated the door lock actuator itself as to why the part failed in the first place? Mine on the front passenger has been having intrmittent unlock/lock issues. The clicking sounds seemingly locking and unlocking too +/- 9mph. I stumbled on the issue when taking the door apart when I was tinting my windows. It turned out, once we found and pulled the door mechanism out, the actuator itself looked burned on the inside, like burnt electronics. Eh, just a thought. If you haven't figured it out.. I'm one of those, "how does this work? what can I do with this" kind of guy. Always something to fix or mod. Seems like there would be a recall for that sort of thing. Of course $21 and 30 min isn't bad either. Thanks for the confirmation of what I believed was the issue.

105, 190 miles on the odometer.. movin' on up!
 
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