While coming back from eastern Oregon today, I stopped at a rest area for a break. I got back in the RL and turned on the ignition and the dash lit up like normal. But when I turned the switch to Start, there was a "pop" and the entire gauge cluster went dark except for the shift indicator lights. When I put it in gear it drove OK so I continued on my way since I was pretty much in the middle of nowhere. As I drove along I found that I also had no cruise control, no A/C, and no power windows. We stopped for breakfast about 80 miles later (my fishing partner was towing his boat and I was towing the folding trailer). I then added inoperable auto lock/unlock to the list. When we came out I started the RL and found it would not shift out of Park. I had to use the manual override to get it out of Park. The rest of the trip was uneventful. It was about 300 miles from where the failure occured to home. Luckily I had my GPS with me so I had a working speedometer. I also could have used the Scangauge one. Also luckily, it was a relatively cool day since I had no A/C and could not open the windows. At least the fan worked to provide some outside air and keep the inside temp at a reasonable level. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow morning and I will post the source of the failure when it is fixed. Not one of my better days.

Good luck, please let us know what the dealer finds.

Today, I went back to my truck at the post office and used the remote to unlock the doors and roll the windows down. When I got inside, I turned the key on and tried to start it, but everything went completely dead.

I popped the hood and the positive cable was completely off the battery. :confused: I put it back on and was on my way. Had to enter the radio security code and set the time.

I think the dealer must have left it loose the last time I was there. Strange though, as usually the ground is what's removed when working on vehicles.

Those are all typical symptoms of an alternator going bad...

Those are all typical symptoms of an alternator going bad...
Nope. The Scangauge shows the alternator putting out 14.1 volts and with the engine off and the ignition on, 11.9 volts.

with the engine off and the ignition on, 11.9 volts.That sounds too low for your battery. It should be around 13V, higher than 12V anyway.

Definately interested in what turns out to be the problem.

That sounds too low for your battery. It should be around 13V, higher than 12V anyway.
I didn't turn anything off when I checked it. I think the headlights may have been on. It was just a qucik check. A battery problem isn't going to produce a "pop" and sudden failure when the key is turned.

I sure hope its an easy and quick resolve, but also curious like everyone else to know what they find. I'm not mechanically inclined so nothing to offer on that end. Sorry it put a damper on your trip.

Keep us posted!!

my money is on a fusible link or the connction at the battery being dirty or loose. These conditions could cause an alternator to fail.
One more valid guess, the battery could have a shorted cell... Good luck!!!:eek:

I don't agree with the bad battery theories. The first thing a bad battery would affect is starting as that draws the most amps by far. The electrical draw for the instrument panel is probably pretty small. Starting is not affected. Secondly, a bad battery would affect affect all systems, not just certain ones. Those that still function work fine.
I also checked the Scangauge for codes and there are none.
The RL is at the dealership now and I hope they get it fixed quickly. The rental car provided by Honda through Enterprise is a Jeep Liberty. :(

I don't think it is the battery either, sounds like a fuse/series of fuses from a short somwhere.

Swampler, the he should only be getting over 12v when the engine is running and the alternator supplying power, from just the battery he should be getting somewhere right around 12v and 11.9 is pretty right on.

Hey Webbie... you didn't say if you checked any of the fuses or not.

There are replacement fuses in the holders that can be used if that is the case. Might have saved you alot of hassle at the time.

But if a fuse DID blow, I wonder what would have caused it?

Curious to learn the results of your dealer's diagnosis...

Have you done any "mod's" recently?

Good luck.
Pug

Pug, I didn't check the fuses because I checked the owners manual for what fuse might be blown and there are none that cover the instrument panel and gauges. Also, there were too many things inoperative to be just a fuse or two.

Pug, I didn't check the fuses because I checked the owners manual for what fuse might be blown and there are none that cover the instrument panel and gauges. Also, there were too many things inoperative to be just a fuse or two.
Wow... this is a real head scratcher... if it wasn't a fuse block issue, or a relay shorting and taking out fuses with it, I'd be asking the service manager a ton of questions when I picked it up to take it home.

Hope they find the cause, and can tell you that it won't happen again.

could still be fuses, but you are right, sounds like way too many things for just a fuse. Could be a series, but with what you described, even if you found them they probably would have blown again. Whatever is causing the problem is higher up in the system and creating a cascade of problems.

A friend had this happen in his hybrid Accord and the dealer replaced the dash module. The issue went away and all is fine since....

Wow... this is a real head scratcher... if it wasn't a fuse block issue, or a relay shorting and taking out fuses with it, I'd be asking the service manager a ton of questions when I picked it up to take it home.

I'll definitely get a good explanation. The service manager and I are on very good terms. We have some common ground as I was a parts and service director at one time and we are both fisherman. He's a power nut. We were talking this morning and he is building a twin turbo Cummins diesel that he hopes to get 500 HP and 1000 FtLb of torque out of. He's going to put it in a '96 Suburban to pull his fishing boat with, which of course also has a 460 ci engine with a jet drive. But his daily driver is a Civic.

Swampler, the he should only be getting over 12v when the engine is running and the alternator supplying power, from just the battery he should be getting somewhere right around 12v and 11.9 is pretty right on.I disagree, though if his lights were on, that would explain it. Put a volt meter on the battery with everything off and you'll have more than 12V, but less than when the alternator is running.

I agree the problem is most likely NOT the battery.

And here’s the rest of the story. The instrument panel has a unit (the exact name I can’t recall) that is an integrated digital control module. Most of the controls are dependent on this control module. A large portion of this module is dependent on a fuse in the Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box. It is fuse #21 innocuously labeled “IG Meter” in the owners manual. However, in the service manual it lists the following components or circuits protected: Back-up lights relay (RTX), Combination Switch Control Unit (Wiper/Washer, Control Block, Dash Lights Brightness Controller, Front Passenger’s Power Window Switch/Door Lock Switch, Gauge Control Module, Hazard Warning Switch (’07), Power Window Master Switch, Radiator Fan Relay, Shift Lock Solenoid, TPMS Control Unit, VTM-4 Control Unit, VTM-4 Lock Switch, Wiper/Washer Switch.
It was this 7.5 amp fuse that blew for an undetermined reason. I had no idea that one little fuse would be responsible for so many functions. Wilsonville Honda replaced the fuse but was unsuccessful in trying to get it to blow again so it may just have been it’s time to go. Everything that didn’t work is dependent on this fuse except the A/C. I suspect the A/C didn’t work because the Radiator Fan Relay didn’t work and had a built in safe guard.
There are several other fuses that have multiple circuits to protect in the Under-dash Fuse/Relay Box so the owners manual doesn't necessarily give you a clue as to what they are protecting.
Wilsonville Honda also repaired the speaker cover rattle on the RH side as I requested, which had just recently developed. Without my asking, they also repaired the steering wheel squeak, which was infrequent and not very loud. They happened to notice it and took care of it.
I also learned that I will not soon be purchasing a Jeep Liberty. :D

Glad to hear it wasn't something more serious, and I hope you don't have to go thru that again!
Sounds like you've got a good relationship with your service people... that's always important. Did they say whether there's that particular replacement fuse supplied in the Fuse/Relay box, "just in case"?

Good luck with your "gremlin".

Pug :)

Not sure how I keep missing these important threads....:confused:

WOW....Webbie.... I am sorry you had an uncomfortable re-entry to civilization. I read your thread title and thought maybe it was a battery issue like mine but as I read on I realized it wasn't.

And now you have it fixed all in one thread. :D Good. I know you're happy about that.

Now young man, enough of this truck talk...some pictures of the fishing trip please. :)

Good news, webwader. Do you think the blown fuse may have been due to something faulty with what you were trailering? Just a guess.

Pug, I haven't checked yet, but 7.5 amp fuses are very common in the RL, so I am sure there is a spare one in there.
LadyRidge, I didn't take any pictures this time. We go there frequently, so now I just take pictures of big fish if we catch them. We did catch some nice ones, but nothing exceptional.
Joe, the trailer had nothing to do with it. The only electrical connection to the truck are brake and turn lights and brake controller and they were not affected by the outage.

A friend had this happen in his hybrid Accord and the dealer replaced the dash module. The issue went away and all is fine since....


Sounds liuke the module that I referenced here may have an issue. Lets hope it does not blow another fuse.......:rolleyes:

My 1984 Honda Accord hatchback has a light that goes on when I open the fuse cover... the Ridgeline has no such thing. At least not one that I am aware of. In fact, does the glove compartment have one? My accord has one of them, too. I guess the large lights above is good enough, but when you're driving the passenger has a hard time looking for stuff.

Strangest thing. My one touch up and down feature on my driver's window no longer works.

Strangest thing. My one touch up and down feature on my driver's window no longer works.Sounds like you've lost power and just need to set it. Roll the window all the way down. Then, roll all the way up, but continue to hold the button up for a few seconds. It should then work.

Sounds like you've lost power and just need to set it. Roll the window all the way down. Then, roll all the way up, but continue to hold the button up for a few seconds. It should then work.

Awesome! I'll give that a try. Thanks!

I did lose power. My positive battery cable needed to be loosened, pushed down further on the post, and then retightened.

Perplexing story, Web. I'm glad you got it solved and it was an easy fix. It's probably just a fluke thing, but if it happens again at least you'll know where to start.

I'm glad it wasn't something worse -- and we're gonna make sure we've got a spare fuse #21 with us at all times!

My 1984 Honda Accord hatchback has a light that goes on when I open the fuse cover... the Ridgeline has no such thing. At least not one that I am aware of. In fact, does the glove compartment have one? My accord has one of them, too. I guess the large lights above is good enough, but when you're driving the passenger has a hard time looking for stuff.
You'll hafta turn-on your parking lights to help the passenger see the contents of the glove box better.

I'm glad it wasn't something worse -- and we're gonna make sure we've got a spare fuse #21 with us at all times!
Rest easy, UT. :cool:
You are correct, Webwader.
Sure enough, I thought I remembered there being mention of the various spare fuses and their location... :)

... thanks to ONDLINKS for this post WITH PICS! (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=107364&postcount=297) in the "Things You May Not Have Noticed..." thread. (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2160)

Excerpted:
To my surprise the fuse box holds 5 spare fuses & a nifty fuse puller to boot. Fuses range from 7.5,10,15,20,30.....Pretty neat!!! The info is on the under side of the cover........

Pug

Thanks, Pug... very helpful.