Oil and filter question, please...

Other then the expense, is there a problem using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W20 motor oil and the Mobile 1 oil filter? Will probably need my first oil change later this week and wonder what others feel about this...Thanks! :confused:

Other then the expense, is there a problem using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W20 motor oil and the Mobile 1 oil filter? Will probably need my first oil change later this week and wonder what others feel about this...Thanks! :confused:

A problem? No! That's probably the very best combo you can possibly use! Glad you realize that the quality of the filter is just as important as the oil. Both of your choices are the very best.

Is everyone aware that Mobil IS the manufacturer of Honda's oils?

Is everyone aware that Mobil IS the manufacturer of Honda's oils?

Don't know who makes Honda oil... probably the lowest bidder, but even if it is Mobil it is NOT Mobil1. I know for certain that Mobil does not OEM out the Mobil1 forumula to anyone.

Mobil is the largest producer and wholesaler of Group IV synthetic basestock. One popular cult style synthetic oil buys all their basestock from Mobil... only difference is in the additives.

Just out of curiosity, why is a Mobil1 filter better then a Honda filter.

Corvette, Porsche, Viper and a couple others use Mobil 1 synthethic as "factory" installed choice of oil...

Just out of curiosity, why is a Mobil1 filter better then a Honda filter.

There's a HUGE difference between a Mobil1 and Honda oil filter. Like night and day. The Honda filter is junk.

There are at least three different "Honda" filters. The one that comes from the factory on your engine is made in Japan and is a pretty good filter. The filter you buy at the Honda dealer in the USA is made by Fram. Fram makes the worst oil filters in the world. The third Honda filter is in Canada and I can't remember who makes it, but it's not nearly as bad as the USA filter.

Now keep in mind that Honda, like all OEM's, switch manufacturers on a regular basis. Their filters may be made by someone else by now... they tend to like the lowest bidder on such items. The last Honda filter I saw at the dealer (maybe six months ago) was a Fram. The last Honda oil filter study I read had Honda as Fram filters.

The Mobil1 filters are made by Champion Labs (no not the same guys as the spark plug makers). Champion Labs makes GREAT oil filters. The Mobil1 filter is a Champion Labs filter that uses Mobil's specially designed synthetic filter material.

Read some of the oil filter studies. They pretty much all concur that Fram filters are junk and Champion Labs filters are great.

It is my humble opinion that the oil filter is just as important as the oil you use. I would rather use a good basic dino oil and a Champion Labs filter than the finest synthetic oil and a Fram filter. I believe I can back up my opinions with facts... not just a feeling.

Now there are exceptions to every rule... Fram makes ONE filter that's pretty good. I believe it's called the X2 Extended Guard series. The standard Extra Guard, and Tough Guard are junk, and the Double Guard is the worst of all. The Double Guard has PTFE resins in it... why anyone would put that in an engine is beyond me!

Comparing a USA Honda filter to a Mobil1 filter is like comparing a Yugo to a Porche. The Yugo might get you there, but that's all they have in common.

Is everyone aware that Mobil IS the manufacturer of Honda's oils?

Technically it's Exxon/Mobil since Exxon bought Mobil and it's Exxon's SuperFlow formula which is not synthetic. As CSIMO said Mobil1 is a top choice if not the best for both oil and filter. I'll be using both myself.

Thanks for the responses...Know what I'll be using on a $35,000.00 plus vehicle...Thanks again all!!! Nick ;)

Just out of curiosity, why is a Mobil1 filter better then a Honda filter.

What csimo said and more. There's more to filters than one might think. It's all about their ability to filter, efficiency and construction to last the duration. Crappy filters (Fram...) can have pleats that tear off the end caps, bypass systems that don't work, get stuck. You need a good and properly set bypass mechanism in the filter so it doesn't rip a hole in the filter media among other things. When you have a spike in oil pressure, like during initial startup, the filter will pass the oil directly thru without going thru the media momentarily. There's anti-drain back valves, not really a concern for the Ridge since the filter is mounted upside down. What type and how much of the filter media used is also of concern and more.

The Wal-Mart SuperTech filter is made by Champion, and at $2.07, is the best high quality filter available for the money. The number is ST7317. Be prepared to hit all of the Wal-Marts in your area, though, as this is no secret to Honda afficianados. It's not unusual to go to the SuperTech shelf and find the 7317 space empty.

THIS IS GREAT! ROC ROCKS - AGAIN! While I have been aware of Mobil1 in the past, I really did not know enough about it to consider using it Vs conventional oil and filters. I never investigated oil filters so I assumed they were all pretty much the same and that a factory filter would be just fine.

I don't know how I could possibly thank all of the fine members of this site enough for what I have learned since joining. The vast amount of expertise and experience that is shared freely on this site is incredible. It is exciting and fun to learn so much that is new to me. I learn something every day from this site. Thank you all.
I do have a few questions. When I do my first oil change to Mobil1 with the Mobil1 filter (at ???? miles, opinions vary considerably), when should the next oil and filter change occur? Will the Honda Oil Life "computer" be accurate? Are there any warranty issues or precautions other than keeping records and receipts?

The Wal-Mart SuperTech filter is made by Champion, and at $2.07, is the best high quality filter available for the money. The number is ST7317. Be prepared to hit all of the Wal-Marts in your area, though, as this is no secret to Honda afficianados. It's not unusual to go to the SuperTech shelf and find the 7317 space empty.

Shhhhh! We're supposed to keep that quiet.

Yes the el-cheapo (meaning inexpensive) Wal-Mart SuperTech oil filter is a Champion Labs product. You can buy 5 of them for the price of one Mobil1, but it's not really quite as good as the Mobil1 filter. Same housing, bypass, and anti-drainback, but different filter material.

I admit I use the SuperTech. It's a great filter.

I do have a few questions. When I do my first oil change to Mobil1 with the Mobil1 filter (at ???? miles, opinions vary considerably), when should the next oil and filter change occur? Will the Honda Oil Life "computer" be accurate? Are there any warranty issues or precautions other than keeping records and receipts?

Stick with what the Oil Life indicator says while under warranty. After that, if you're using the EP formula of Mobil1 you could probably push it further to 10,000 or 15,000 miles depending on your driving habits/conditions. If you're really into it and want to know you can send in oil samples to a lab like BlackStone and see how far you can push it.

I do have a few questions. When I do my first oil change to Mobil1 with the Mobil1 filter (at ???? miles, opinions vary considerably), when should the next oil and filter change occur? Will the Honda Oil Life "computer" be accurate? Are there any warranty issues or precautions other than keeping records and receipts?

The guys "in the know" insist that we run the "break-in" oil until the computer tells us to change. My personal policy is that if the computer tells me to change it before 5000 miles I will do it, but at 5000 miles it's coming out either way. I know I'll take some heat over that, but it's just not in me to run that oil, as special as it may be, in a new engine for over 5000 miles. Sorry.

Once you have Mobil1 (no reason to pay extra for the new extended drain version) and a good filter there's no reason not to follow the computer from there on out. I've had my oil analyzed toooo many time and know that Mobil1 will hold up 10,000 if needed. 7500 mile changes (the default of the computer) will work just fine.

Warranty issues? If you change your own oil keep your receipts and document the date and mileage.

Here's what I do... some will not like it, but it works for me. I live near a Wal-Mart with a Tire and Lube Express. If you use their default oil change, or even their synthetic oil change you never know exactly what you're going to get. I buy my Mobil1 in the 5 quart bottle and my SuperTech filter in advance. I bring them in with the vehicle when it's time for an oil change and just tell them to use my customer provided oil and filter. The charge is only $10 for the labor. They still check all the other stuff, vacuum, and wash my windows.

In addition the first time I bring in a new vehicle I pay for the lifetime rotation and balancing ($7.50 per tire). Then every time I have the oil changed I have them do a free rotate and balance. Works great.

I'm not a fan of Wal-Mart, but I do admire their oil changes and tire balance and rotation. I've watched them several times. The supervisor has to check the oil level, the torque on the oil drain plug, verify the oil cap is in place, re-torques the lug nuts, etc. This is in addition to the guy who did the work. At the dealer I've never seen them double check these items. At Wal-Mart they can't let the vehicle leave without the supervisor checking them. Above all that I get it all done for $10 above the cost of the oil and filter... can't beat that anywhere.

Guess it sounds like I'm cheap, but I found out a long time ago that the money is better off in my pocket than theirs.

Once you have Mobil1 (no reason to pay extra for the new extended drain version)...

For me there is. While the verdict is still out on the new EP formula it does have more anti-wear additives and cleaning agents than the standard formula of Mobil1. This makes a difference for me as most of my driving is very short trips. I rarely get out on the freeway so I never get my oil up to temp to burn off any built up condensation. I'll take all the help I can get as my oil gets old quick. BTW I'm at 2500 miles now and my Oil indicator just flipped to 50% so looks like my schedule will be every 5000 miles.

My indicator showes 10% oil life left this morning with 6,230 miles on the odometer...leaving this weekend on a 500 mile trip one way...going to change oil probably while on the road at a Honda dealership with my oil (Mobil 1 synthetic with a Mobil 1 oil filter) and also while in the process, pull a sample from the "break-in" oil and send it into Blackstone Lab for a TBN readout and analyis (have used their services before and was impressed). If interested...will post results? Most of my driving is usually at highway speeds (55 miles per hour or above). Will be interesting, I'm sure. ;)

Honda filters are made by Fram and are therefore inferior? Well, wad'ya know?

Oil and Filters, Car Wax, Tires and Gas always inspire such fierce debates in these auto forums over the years. Makes for interesting reading.

My indicator showes 10% oil life left this morning with 6,230 miles on the odometer...leaving this weekend on a 500 mile trip one way...going to change oil probably while on the road at a Honda dealership with my oil (Mobil 1 synthetic with a Mobil 1 oil filter) and also while in the process, pull a sample from the "break-in" oil and send it into Blackstone Lab for a TBN readout and analyis (have used their services before and was impressed). If interested...will post results? Most of my driving is usually at highway speeds (55 miles per hour or above). Will be interesting, I'm sure. ;)

yes, please post the results, and most importantly the interpretations of the results. Looking forward to it.

by the way vertrkr, I'm at 3,300 miles and the monior says 60% left.

by the way vertrkr, I'm at 3,300 miles and the monior says 60% left.

Jealous, just goes to show how bad short little trips are on the engine. I'm also looking forward to the oil analysis, curious how much more moly and other stuff they put in the beakin oil.

5K is tops for me, I couldnt imagine running 10 to 15K without changing the oil no matter what kind it is. Even if its just peace of mind for me.

Good info on the Wally World Filters though !! :D

Hum? I have 500 miles on my RTL and the oil indicator is at 90%. I wonder what that means?

Means it's 10% deteriorated ;)

Captn', she can't take much more!!!!!! :)

I'm curious how many of you topped off your break-in oil. I'm at 3850 miles and just added half a quart of dino to top it off.

I'm not a fan of Wal-Mart, but I do admire their oil changes and tire balance and rotation. I've watched them several times. The supervisor has to check the oil level, the torque on the oil drain plug, verify the oil cap is in place, re-torques the lug nuts, etc. This is in addition to the guy who did the work. At the dealer I've never seen them double check these items. At Wal-Mart they can't let the vehicle leave without the supervisor checking them. Above all that I get it all done for $10 above the cost of the oil and filter... can't beat that anywhere.

Guess it sounds like I'm cheap, but I found out a long time ago that the money is better off in my pocket than theirs.

I had my Honda Dealer forget, YES, forget to put oil in my Civic. I drove about 3 miles until it sputtered and died. The oil cap was sitting on top of the engine. Talk about mad. Some poor kid brought a couple quarts of oil and stared putting oil in. At about the 3rd quart I was staring at him saying "not good, not good!!!!" I went off on the service department when I got back.
I was puzzled why the oil light did not come on. Didn't seem to do any damage but I made them document it good and got a free 10k mile service and a detail. Called a lawyer but said there was not much I could do unless I wanted to tear down the engine and send it to a lab for inspection.
Moral of the story:
Always check the oil after any oil change.

WOW!!!!!!!!! :mad:

Was it by chance Ray Fladeboe Honda??? :eek:

Local dealer. I try not to have my oil changed by dealers across the country. :D

going to change oil probably while on the road at a Honda dealership with my oil (Mobil 1 synthetic with a Mobil 1 oil filter)
I'm curious did they give you a discount for bringing in your own oil?

Already called the Honda dealer close to my son's base and changing oil Friday afternoon (June 3rd) will be no problem...and the cost is $10.00 since I'm providing my own oil, oil filter and "new" oil pan drain plug "crush" washer. Want A Honda dealer to do this service so that is recorded (might not mean a thing???).

Oh, by the way...for those interested, the Mobil 1 oil filter for the Honda Ridgeline V-6 VTEC 3.5 liter engine is: Part Number Mobil 1 - 110

Anyone know how to fill the tranny up after you drain it i want to drain it and use amsoil synthetic tranny fluid but can't find a place to fill it up from unless you pour it down the dipstick tube which will be a pain because it is so small

Anyone know how to fill the tranny up after you drain it i want to drain it and use amsoil synthetic tranny fluid but can't find a place to fill it up from unless you pour it down the dipstick tube which will be a pain because it is so small
Not sure on the Honda, but my F150 had to be filled through the dipstick hole. I suspect the same is true for the RL.

BYOO, BYOF, and BYOW? Tell them you wanted it ASAP and FYI dont forget the Oil. :eek: That's like going to a restaurant and bringing your own MEAT !!

I think at this point I would just do it myself at my house, its no BFD. :D

CYA L8TR

Anyone know how to fill the tranny up after you drain it i want to drain it and use amsoil synthetic tranny fluid but can't find a place to fill it up from unless you pour it down the dipstick tube which will be a pain because it is so small

Not sure I'd change out the ATF. The problem is the service manual specifies only using their own Honda ATF, they do not give any specification like Dexron, Mercon or others so we really have no idea what type of ATF is needed.


UPDATE: I see Amsoil does specify it's compatible with Honda Z-1 ATF.

Vert there the only ones i found that are honda compatiable, i remember years ago when i had my acura you needed a special power steering fluid that was like $5 more than every other power steering fluid on the market, all my vehicles i have run synthetic in everything motor.tranny, powersteering, and brake fluid ,my mazda has 265,658,00 miles on it all with original, motor tranny, mastercylinder, and powersteering pump

Vert there the only ones i found that are honda compatiable, i remember years ago when i had my acura you needed a special power steering fluid that was like $5 more than every other power steering fluid on the market, all my vehicles i have run synthetic in everything motor.tranny, powersteering, and brake fluid ,my mazda has 265,658,00 miles on it all with original, motor tranny, mastercylinder, and powersteering pump

Indeed, I'm a big believer in synthetics and do the same in my other cars. Do you plan on flushing out all 8 quarts otherwise just a drain is only going to replace 3 quarts.

i want to chang the full 8qts but cant seem to figure out how i dont want to crack open the tranny to change the filter if thats the only way i wish there was a chilton service manual otu for the ridgeline

i want to chang the full 8qts but cant seem to figure out how i dont want to crack open the tranny to change the filter if thats the only way i wish there was a chilton service manual otu for the ridgeline

You're never going to get all the ATF out unless you flush the whole system, lines, cooler, etc. and you'll need a pump to do that. Probably the easiet way is just to take it to a local/trusted oil change facility and give them the Amsoil requesting a flush.

Personally I'm not touching mine although temped. Honda has not had the best track record with transmissions and this one is brand new for Honda with no history. Some claim it's the same tranny from the MDX but the trusted info I got says it's unique & new for the Ridge. Anyway, I'll let the original ATF stay in until a scheduled change then consider the synthetic at that point.

Anyway, I'll let the original ATF stay in until a scheduled change then consider the synthetic at that point.
Isn't the 1st scheduled around 150,000 miles (or 6 years)? I think that's what it is on our '01 Accord...the RL says to follow the maintenance minder (I think), but would expect it to be similar.

BYOO, BYOF, and BYOW? Tell them you wanted it ASAP and FYI dont forget the Oil. :eek: That's like going to a restaurant and bringing your own MEAT !!

I think at this point I would just do it myself at my house, its no BFD. :D

CYA L8TR

True but what is the worst part of cooking at your house, clean up and while your guests are all enjoying themselves you have to run around making sure everthing is getting done at the right time.

I prefer catering or restaurants. This way if someone screws up the my gravy boat (oil pan) they have to provide me with a new one. They are also the one's responsible for cleaning up the messy kitchen and disposing of the garbage.

True but what is the worst part of cooking at your house, clean up and while your guests are all enjoying themselves you have to run around making sure everthing is getting done at the right time.

I prefer catering or restaurants. This way if someone screws up the my gravy boat (oil pan) they have to provide me with a new one. They are also the one's responsible for cleaning up the messy kitchen and disposing of the garbage.


You must be a messy cook :eek: I agree there is some clean up that will need to be done but its minimal. An Oil drip pan and a couple plastic bottles with lids may help and some more prep time may help when you have company :D

If your going to take the time to buy the oil, the filter, and the washer .. why not do it all yourself? Other than that... I usually have my dealer do mine, they have a $19.95 special and 30 minutes or its free deal. ( I have had 2 freebies with my Accord!! :D )

My truck has roughly 4000 miles on it, after my last long high speed trip I noted my oil level was getting to the add mark. The manual cautions you about changing to normal 5w-20w before break in is over, normaly first oil change.

It does not indicate what to top off with prior to that. Aircraft engines will typicly run a non detergent oil that leaves abrasives in suspension to aid in seating of the rings for break in. Mixing detergent or ashless dispersent (normal 5w-20w) oil will cause the oil to foam and lose efficiency. My dealership had no answer.

Any sages out there?

At right about 4K miles, mine needed oil as well. I topped it off with dino 5W-20. It's gonna be all gone soon, but I don't think it's good to run it low on oil. No signs of foaming at all.

I'm wondering if you guys that were running low on oil at 4,000 miles checked the dip stick to determine that or if a light or service notice came on in the dash to warn you of the low oil level?

No, I check my oil weekly. It's a habit from driving my trucks routinely over 120K miles. I don't believe that there's a low oil light, rather a low oil pressure light.

What does "dino" stand for?

What does "dino" stand for?

dino = dinosaur, as in "made from" (oil is very decomposed dinosaurs and vegetation that's been in the ground for a VERY long time)

As opposed to synthetic - no dinosaurs involved.

As opposed to naming the brand of oil I topped off with - and sparking off a raging rathole about what crap that brand of oil is :) It's coming out in less than 1500 miles.

At right about 4K miles, mine needed oil as well. I topped it off with dino 5W-20.
Checked my oil this morning, just shy of 5100 miles, and the oil is still at the top (full) mark...just like the day I brought it home. Hope you guys don't have the oil leak that Ladyridge posted the TSB about.

As opposed to naming the brand of oil I topped off with - and sparking off a raging rathole about what crap that brand of oil is :) ...

Smart move shovelhd!

I oughtta know...I'm the King Rat!!! :)

Don't know who makes Honda oil... probably the lowest bidder, but even if it is Mobil it is NOT Mobil1. I know for certain that Mobil does not OEM out the Mobil1 forumula to anyone.

Mobil is the largest producer and wholesaler of Group IV synthetic basestock. One popular cult style synthetic oil buys all their basestock from Mobil... only difference is in the additives.

Yes Mobil1 does formula out it's product to OEM. They are the supplier to Triumph motorcycles. It labeled Triumph formulated by Mobil1. And it about 8 bucks a quart

Does anyone have the part number for the Mobil 1 oil filter as discussed ealier?

I believe it's the same as for the Pilot. M1-104. Surely someone has bought one by now.

It's actually M1-110. I called them to double check, same as the '05 Ody.

Going from memory here, but I'm pretty sure that the M1-104, M1-105, and M1-110 all fit the Honda / Acura line. The difference between the three is size.

Any opinions as to using a heavier oil, despite Honda's recomendation for 5-20? Like say, at least 10-40? I live in So. Cal. and go out to the desert sometimes, where the temp.'s get up to 115 on average in the summer...was thinking maybe a thicker oil might offer better protection.

My Sales guy said using a thicker oil would be bad in terms of increased gas milage, but I'm beginning to wonder if he's talking out of his arse (for a lot fo reasons).

I would absolutely only use 5-20 as Honda Recommends, and there's no way I'd put 10-40 in my RL.

Use the 5-20 and if you see your temp guage run hotter, you might have a point.

Any opinions as to using a heavier oil, despite Honda's recomendation for 5-20? Like say, at least 10-40? I live in So. Cal. and go out to the desert sometimes, where the temp.'s get up to 115 on average in the summer...was thinking maybe a thicker oil might offer better protection.

My Sales guy said using a thicker oil would be bad in terms of increased gas milage, but I'm beginning to wonder if he's talking out of his arse (for a lot fo reasons).

I would NOT use 10w-40! Too heavy for nearly any modern engine.

If you are worried about 5w-20 (which might be justified) you can use 5w-30. Nothing heavier.

Honda recommends 5w-20 in North America, but recommends 5w-30 elsewhere. The 5w-20 is for fuel economy purposes only. CAFE rules say the manufacturer has to recommend the oil the vehicle was certified with.

A 10w-40 could cause problems due to the very tight tolerances in our engines. I would never use it in a modern engine.

Opinion: Our engines will last longer on 5w-30 than 5w-20. What difference in fuel mileage? Hard to say... maybe 1 - 2%?

^^^Yah, that was what I'd heard from the Sales guy, that the newer engines tolerences are too tight for heavier oils.

So how about changing it sooner than recomended? I can't see where that would be a problem. I plan to keep my pride and joy for sometime to come and am not opposed to babying it. Someday, someone is going to get a very well cared for, very much loved, great "one-owner" classic Honda truck! :p

BTW: The sales guy also said NOT to use synthetic (why though now I can't specifically recall), but next time I'm down there, I'm going to bypass him and talk to service...I have a number of questions for them! ;)

So how about changing it sooner than recomended? I can't see where that would be a problem. ! ;)


If this is your first oil change, you need to keep that in there as long as possible. Wait for the oil monitor to tell you to change it. It's a special break in oil from the factory.

I would NOT use 10w-40! Too heavy for nearly any modern engine.

If you are worried about 5w-20 (which might be justified) you can use 5w-30. Nothing heavier.

Honda recommends 5w-20 in North America, but recommends 5w-30 elsewhere. The 5w-20 is for fuel economy purposes only. CAFE rules say the manufacturer has to recommend the oil the vehicle was certified with.

A 10w-40 could cause problems due to the very tight tolerances in our engines. I would never use it in a modern engine.

Opinion: Our engines will last longer on 5w-30 than 5w-20. What difference in fuel mileage? Hard to say... maybe 1 - 2%?

I have a 2000 BMW with 10-60 synthetic. This is BMW's original factory fill and will be the cause of a warranty denial if you use a 10-30. Not to mention excessive oil consumption (and early problem with E62 engines) and engine wear. They originally had a lower weight oil but changed rings and oil viscosity to rectify the problem. This engine runs ab out $25k to replace.

Oil discussiions are quite common on just about every car forum. Amazing how everyone wants to question the manufacturer's recommendation on everything from intervals to oil filters. Ask me about the green to yellow to red leds that everyone discussed to death on the M5 boards. The same as the % indicator on the Ridgeline. Folks just couldnt stand the idea of going over 3k miles between oil changes. This oil runs about $10 per quart and it takes 5 of them. Of course BMW did the maintance for the first 4 years but now that it's on my dime...

BTW, I have a NSX with 118,000 miles that has never seen anything other than Mobile 1 and stock Acura air and oil filters. Someone at the track asked me why I'd take a chance on a $15k,000 engine with someone elses filter. Was a FREam desinged to withstand the pressures of a high performance engine reving about 8000 rpms? I know of one NSXs with over 350,000 miles on nothing but Acura oem parts. Oh yea, Acura everywhere else in the world is still a Honda.

Cal

Going from memory here, but I'm pretty sure that the M1-104, M1-105, and M1-110 all fit the Honda / Acura line. The difference between the three is size.
So which do you recommend for the Ridge? Is bigger better? Which one is biggest... smallest... same as factory filter? Thanks!

So which do you recommend for the Ridge? Is bigger better? Which one is biggest... smallest... same as factory filter? Thanks!

All those Mobil1 sizes may work but -110 is the specified size. I called the Mobil tech line and asked them to look up any cross-reference of the same thread & gasket size of the 110 as I wanted to use the largest filter that would fit. For what it's worth he said 110 had no other cross references of the same dimensions. I put about 50% trust in that and a visual inspection by myself would assure me but I have not done that. Also of note the spring constant for the bypass valve may be different for those different models. I'm pretty sure the S2000 runs a higher oil pressure so it may have its bypass valve set to a higher setting and it may be one of those other model numbers, not sure. Because of this doubt I stuck with the specified M1-110.

Thanks, vertrkr. A 110 it is. It's time to let my fingers do the walking to check local availability. :)

All those Mobil1 sizes may work but -110 is the specified size. I called the Mobil tech line and asked them to look up any cross-reference of the same thread & gasket size of the 110 as I wanted to use the largest filter that would fit. For what it's worth he said 110 had no other cross references of the same dimensions. I put about 50% trust in that and a visual inspection by myself would assure me but I have not done that. Also of note the spring constant for the bypass valve may be different for those different models. I'm pretty sure the S2000 runs a higher oil pressure so it may have its bypass valve set to a higher setting and it may be one of those other model numbers, not sure. Because of this doubt I stuck with the specified M1-110.

I was at autozone a few days ago looking up what mobile 1 filter was for the ridgeline. the book didn't cover 2006, but their computer data based did but not for mobile one. So we statrted with another filter that they had for the ridgeline then crossed referenced back to mobile 1 and came up with the m1-110. also, this was assigned (in the book) to all of the other hondas regardless of model. very interesting.

Other then the expense, is there a problem using Mobil 1 synthetic 5W20 motor oil and the Mobile 1 oil filter? Will probably need my first oil change later this week and wonder what others feel about this...Thanks! :confused:

Hey Nicholas, I changed to Mobil 1 and used a K&N oil filter for our first change. I don't forsee any issues.

Well, due to the fact that I'll be on the road next week, I had my first oil/filter change done early. I watched the maintenance minder hit 15% on the way to the dealership, with 5,850 miles on the odometer. I settled on a Mobil 1 filter and Havoline 5w20 oil (dino). Thanks to all of you ROC-Heads for the informative discussions on oil and filters!

Hi Guys:

I can't believe how much I have learned in the short time I have been on this board, and I CAN'T believe how much knowledge you fellows have, what a great resource.

I am at 6100 Km here in Canada and my oil minder still says 50% so I guess I have a ways to go for my first oil change, about 12000 Km by the looks of it, but 5000 Miles should be only 8000 Km ??? didn't know there was a special breakin oil in the engine?

I will look to see if Wal-Mart in Canada has the Champion made filters and Mobil 1 oil,will also see if they will do the oil change and tire rotetion deal as I read on this board

Thanks a million ....

ALfer

Alfer, don't be surprised if monitor moves quicker than in a straight line after you take a good highway trip or work the engine a little harder than normal. You may end up getting the <15% oil change message quicker than you anticipate. Remember, you do not want to go down to 0% percent, so you only have 35% of really safe oil life left.

Alfer, don't be surprised if monitor moves quicker than in a straight line after you take a good highway trip or work the engine a little harder than normal. You may end up getting the <15% oil change message quicker than you anticipate. Remember, you do not want to go down to 0% percent, so you only have 35% of really safe oil life left.
Actually, highway trips are easier on your oil, not harder. And you should go down to 0% oil life, but the dinger is so darn annoying starting at 15%, I usually only make it to 10%. At 10% and 15%, the OLM still says "Service due Soon." At 0% it says "service due now," then it will start counting past due in number of miles.

I disagree with the wait until 0% theory. Many of us cannot just jump up and run down to the Honda Dealership and get an oil change. Where I live it takes a good week to get an appointment and that translates to about 300 miles driving. Why would anyone wait until oil is basically ready to be changed and then drive another 300 miles. If you have 5000 miles at <15%, it is well within reason to get the oil and filter changed at your first convenience so you do not have to be rushed later in the cycle.

Well Bill, because most folks don't think that far ahead. It makes perfect sense to get it changed a tad early anyway. If I waited until my OLM tells me to change the oil it would be about 7 or 8 months.....way too long for this guy. I plan on doing 6 month or 6k miles .....give or take on the miles. I use Redline 5w-20 synthetic and either a Purolator Premium Plus, Purolator PureOne, K&N, Amsoil, Mobil 1, or possibly a Filtech Honda oil filter.

So Wally World's oil filter is good to go with Mobil 1 supersyn. Correct... Where can someone get the mobil1 oil filter?

Mini, any top filter is good to mix with Mobil 1 oil. I used Purolator Pure 1 filter (model PL14610) and it is readily available at most Auto supply shops. Most Honda dealerships offer a synthetic upgrade if you do not have the wherewithall to do the job yourself and mine used Mobil 1 5-20 as their "House" brand. They will likely give you the not preferred version of the Honda Filter with this service, so bring your own and I can't see any shop not willing to use your supplied filter.

Minihummer,
Being that you live in Oregon I assume you have stores called "GI Joes"? If so you can get the Mobil 1 filters there. If not, go to a Fred Meyer store and purchase either a Purolator Premium Plus or Purolator PureOne filter in the auto section.
Best of luck!

Thanks BillB, so you would use Purolator over the Wally's Brand ? Which would be a better choice?

Just FYI, I contacted AMSOIL to find out what oil filter should be used in the Ridgeline. Here is the answer I received:

Thank you for contacting AMSOIL with your concerns.


In response to your inquiry, please use the EaO13 oil filter.

Thank you again for the opportunity to respond to your concerns. As always, please feel free to contact us again if we can be of further assistance.

Sincerely,

Byron Selbrede
AMSOIL Technical Service

I plan on using their filter and Mobil 1 oil when my first change is due..

We don't have Wally's World where I live, but I don't think I would go out of my way to find one so I could get my oil changes there. I personally believe you can put just about any oil and filter in this truck and it will run fine, for how long is anyone's guess. I haven't kept any vehicle beyond 70,000 miles in about 20 years, just because I get bored easily and want something new to drive every 5 years or so. The Ridgeline will be the same for me. Someone who gets mine from the dealer after the trade in will never know how well it was treated and the dealer will not care either.

I just went to a Honda dealer sponsor clinic where they told me that Honda oil filter is better because it has some valve that hold the oil in the filter. So when you start the car in the morning the oil in the filter gets to the engine part faster and lubricate. Is this ture or some Bu??

They were not bullsh---ing you, but they were stretching the limits of the "truth". The anti-drainback valve can be found on most if not all high end filters today. It is obviously a pertinent technology that manufacturers of filters recognize as important to have in the filter or they will be ina competitve disadvantage. I am sure there are cheap filters out there that the current Honda filter is actually better than, but they changed their filter design/quality/supplier not too long ago, whereas the original Honda Filter has actually received good grades from knowledgeable forum members and some have even stockpiled this older version of the Honda filter for future use.

I haven't even looked at my filter but doesn't gravity keep the oil in our filters?

I just went to a Honda dealer sponsor clinic where they told me that Honda oil filter is better because it has some valve that hold the oil in the filter. So when you start the car in the morning the oil in the filter gets to the engine part faster and lubricate. Is this ture or some Bu??

#1 Most oil filters have an anti-drainback valve. Some work better than others. The Honda OEM filter has one of the worst designs possible.

#2 The Ridgeline filter is mounted nearly vertically and actually does not even need an anti-drainback valve.

Result... dealer is wrong.

-Joe

I haven't even looked at my filter but doesn't gravity keep the oil in our filters?That's what I thought.

Only the first start after an oil change has no oil in the filter...unless you put oil in the filter before putting it back on.

Im going in for my 1st oil change on Sat, my oil life is just <15% , @ 6,600 miles. I am taking my truck in for a minor insurance repair tomorrow, (some idiot in a semi decided to hit my parked truck because he didnt know how big his trailer was.....). only a cracked tailight , and a scuff on the bumper, just a - 3 day repair... So I when I get my Ridgeline back on Friday or SAt, & I can get the oil changed, and tires rotated without pushing my mileage too far above 6,800. I still cant believe the Ridgeline can go so far between oil changes, it makes me think the 3,000 mile mark that some follow like its scripture is a scam thought up by penzoil, and jiffy lube to name a few..

i know I have always gone 4,500 to 5,000 miles for all of my vehicles in the past with no issues..but 6,800 miles, that is great...

Chisoxjim - technically, you could go longer than 6800 miles. The 15% oil life expectancy is the percentage when the oil life monitor gives you the service due notice. It can go down to all the way down to 0%, at which point you get a service past due notice.

But I really think 6800 miles is enough for regular dino oil in non-severe driving conditions. Most vehicles that have used oil analysis (UOA) conducted show that virtully all brands of straight dino oil is pretty much used up by this point. In fact, one of our members here (Nicholas) submited his factory fill for an analysis at 6863 miles. The report came back pretty good but the TBN (which is an indicator of how much life your oil has left) was 1.2. The lab conducting the analysis has a base line of anything under 1.0 being considered low.

So, unless you use synthetic oil, it seems to me that the proper time to change oil is as you are doing - as soon as possible after the first service due notice appears. And yes, the old 3,000 mile/3 month oil change interval is a thing of the past.

Having an anti-drainback valve, and having one that WORKS are two different things. I recall reading one oil filter study that had a couple of filters that leaked after just a few hours of testing.

But can we tell if it is working? No. Can we tell if the pleats blow off the end cap, and the oil just rushes thru, unfiltered? No. So many unknowns, so little time. But I hafta go along with the general concensus here, Fram seems to have some of the worst test results of any filter on the market. Also probably one of the most used, thanks to Wally World & similar.

Good points, csimo!

#1 Most oil filters have an anti-drainback valve. Some work better than others. The Honda OEM filter has one of the worst designs possible.

#2 The Ridgeline filter is mounted nearly vertically and actually does not even need an anti-drainback valve.

Result... dealer is wrong.

-Joe

Having an anti-drainback valve, and having one that WORKS are two different things. I recall reading one oil filter study that had a couple of filters that leaked after just a few hours of testing.

But can we tell if it is working? No. Can we tell if the pleats blow off the end cap, and the oil just rushes thru, unfiltered? No. So many unknowns, so little time. But I hafta go along with the general concensus here, Fram seems to have some of the worst test results of any filter on the market. Also probably one of the most used, thanks to Wally World & similar.

Good points, csimo!

The be completely honest the anti-drainback valve doesn't really matter on our Ridgelines. The filter can't drain back due to the mounting position.

Now the bypass valve is a completely different story. Extremely important. The Fram filters have demonstrated time and again that they are in bypass much of the time. This means that completely unfiltered oil is being pumped thru your engine. The bypass valve is extremely important.

-Joe

Joe is correct !

I am planning on changing my oil tomorrow, going to use Mobil1 and was looking at the Fram made for Trucks, the HD version. Is it worth it for me to use the Mobil1 filter, is $12 instead of $5, but it is worth it if it is a better design.

I am planning on changing my oil tomorrow, going to use Mobil1 and was looking at the Fram made for Trucks, the HD version. Is it worth it for me to use the Mobil1 filter, is $12 instead of $5, but it is worth it if it is a better design.
If one is willing to pay extra for Mobil synthetic oil then I'd think that the added expense of their filter would seem negligible. I've heard nothing but good stuff about the Mobil 1 filter and nothing but bad stuff about most Frams. :)

If one is willing to pay extra for Mobil synthetic oil then I'd think that the added expense of their filter would seem negligible. I've heard nothing but good stuff about the Mobil 1 filter and nothing but bad stuff about most Frams. :)

Well then it looks like I will stop at the PepBoys on my way home and grab one. Thanks

where can i buy or get mobile 1 oil filters? for ex. wal-mart, pepboys, or autozone? Where do you all get your mobile 1 oil filters?

where can i buy or get mobile 1 oil filters? for ex. wal-mart, pepboys, or autozone? Where do you all get your mobile 1 oil filters?

I don't know where Mobil 1 oil filters are sold, but Wal-Mart carries the SuperTech ST7317 oil filter which is made by the same company that makes the Mobil 1 oil filter. Same basic design. The filter media is slightly different, but I'm told that SuperTech's now have a synthetic filter media like the Mobil 1 has.

What's the difference? You can buy about 5 of the SuperTech filters for the price of one Mobil 1 filter... that's the main difference.

BTW, a K&N oil filter is the same basic design as well, but don't use their air filters.

-Joe

I don't know where Mobil 1 oil filters are sold, but Wal-Mart carries the SuperTech ST7317 oil filter which is made by the same company that makes the Mobil 1 oil filter. Same basic design. The filter media is slightly different, but I'm told that SuperTech's now have a synthetic filter media like the Mobil 1 has.

What's the difference? You can buy about 5 of the SuperTech filters for the price of one Mobil 1 filter... that's the main difference.



-Joe
At $2.07 an absolute bargain.:D

i usually use Mann oil filters, but Mann doesn't have filters for the Honda vehicles. I may have to look into that company or product..anyone else know where i can get Mobile 1 oil filters? Thanx for the info on the SuperTech..good back up oil filter in case i can't find Mobile 1 oil filter.
So for now my back up filter are SuperTech & Honda Filter.

I got my Mobil 1 filter from AutoZone - $10.99, Mobil 1 oil from Advance Auto Parts - $4.94/quart, & VTM-4 fluid from dealer - $24.73/gallon.
Now I'm good for about 7,000 miles. Too bad the $45.00 of gas will only last a few days.:(

There's a guy that sells genuine Honda VTM-4 fluid on eBay for $5 per gallon plus $8 shipping.

-Joe

I got my Mobil 1 filter from AutoZone - $10.99, Mobil 1 oil from Advance Auto Parts - $4.94/quart, & VTM-4 fluid from dealer - $24.73/gallon.
Now I'm good for about 7,000 miles. Too bad the $45.00 of gas will only last a few days.:(
mugz...$4.94 is that Mobile 1 full syntetic 5w-20? or dino oil or other brand? the cheapest Mobile 1 oil for that company advance auto parts is $5.99 Moblie 1 /qt. I guess if i can't find a good supply of Mobile 1 5w-20, i can always buy a box at costco for $27.95 per box 6qt in 1box case Mobile 1 full Syntetic 5w-30. Considering its the cheapest oil in a box of 6qts canister.

I did my 1st change at 6000 miles and also had Blackstone do an oil analysis. TBN at 6000 miles was 1.9

mugz...$4.94 is that Mobile 1 full syntetic 5w-20? or dino oil or other brand? the cheapest Mobile 1 oil for that company advance auto parts is $5.99 Moblie 1 /qt. I guess if i can't find a good supply of Mobile 1 5w-20, i can always buy a box at costco for $27.95 per box 6qt in 1box case Mobile 1 full Syntetic 5w-30. Considering its the cheapest oil in a box of 6qts canister.

I buy my Mobil 1 in the 5 quart containers from Wal-Mart. Used to be around $18 but was just over $20 this week. Pennzoil Platinum was just over $18 for the 5 quart container... I'm warming up to that product as the results to date have been very good (I actually put two quarts of it in my Honda ATV 20HP engine yesterday).

-Joe

mugz...$4.94 is that Mobile 1 full syntetic 5w-20? or dino oil or other brand? the cheapest Mobile 1 oil for that company advance auto parts is $5.99 Moblie 1 /qt. I guess if i can't find a good supply of Mobile 1 5w-20, i can always buy a box at costco for $27.95 per box 6qt in 1box case Mobile 1 full Syntetic 5w-30. Considering its the cheapest oil in a box of 6qts canister.
Wally World has the 5-qt jug of 5W20 Mobil1 for about $21.

I did my 1st change at 6000 miles and also had Blackstone do an oil analysis. TBN at 6000 miles was 1.9

OK....for us folks that aren't motor oil experts:

1). How/where does a person go to get an oil analysis?

2). What does "TBN at 6000 miles was 1.9", mean exactly? I know TBN means Total Base Number and has to do with the alkaline content of the oil. But what does that really mean as far as used oil goes? Is 1.9 good or bad?

OK....for us folks that aren't motor oil experts:

1). How/where does a person go to get an oil analysis?

2). What does "TBN at 6000 miles was 1.9", mean exactly? I know TBN means Total Base Number and has to do with the alkaline content of the oil. But what does that really mean as far as used oil goes? Is 1.9 good or bad?

It is my understanding that 1.0 is considered low. Anything above that and the oil still has enough guts left to lubricate the motor properly. At 1.9 you are better off changing before it gets lower. Another indication that the oil life monitor we have is a pretty good reference for oil change intervals.

mugz...$4.94 is that Mobile 1 full syntetic 5w-20? or dino oil or other brand? the cheapest Mobile 1 oil for that company advance auto parts is $5.99 Moblie 1 /qt. I guess if i can't find a good supply of Mobile 1 5w-20, i can always buy a box at costco for $27.95 per box 6qt in 1box case Mobile 1 full Syntetic 5w-30. Considering its the cheapest oil in a box of 6qts canister.
Mobil 1 fully synthetic 5W-20, on sale - $4.94/qt. Receipt says "regular price: $5.62"

Also, we don't have Wally World around here (NE PA), and I don't shop at Wal-Mart. It's a personal thing.

CSIMO....I'm with you guy. I'm going to give Pennzoil Platinum a try on both of our vehicles (2006 Civic and Ridge). For the money it appears that this oil may be a very good deal and perform very well for my needs. Redline is superior....but expensive, mail order only, and a slight warranty risk. Perhaps the PP with either a new Amsoil or Purolator Pure One filter will be a good combo for my 5 to 6k OCI's.

Is anyone using Amsoil (www.amsoil.com)? I am using 0W-30 in my wifes 2003 Honda Accord and we have seen 1 mpg better in fuel mileage (she drives 500 miles a week, so every gallon counts for me). I also use the amsoil filter which is on the same filtering level as the Mobil 1 filters. I think I will switch my truck over after the first oil change. I only have 500 miles, so I have a while!

Jon

Jon,

I switched my Ridge to Amsoil Series 2000 0w-30 at the first oil change with a Mobil1 filter. I have no particular affinity for any filter as long as it's a good one. I try to stockpile Mobil1, K&N, and PureOne filters whenever I can. I also noticed a slight increase in long term MPG after switching to synthetic (other vehicles, not the ridge, yet.) What is noticable, almost immediately, is that the engine runs about 10 degrees cooler on synthetic than dino. I like the amsoil but I'm sure any good synthetic would offer similar results. Why amsoil? For me it is simply one stop shopping. Half of the messages on this discussion have been "where can I get this or that?" With Amsoil I order up all the oil I will need for my cars and ope (gas, diesel, two stroke), hydraulic fluid, synthetic grease, etc... and occasionally some filters. A few days later it shows up at my door. All at a pricepoint close to the Mobil1. Is it the "best" sythetic? Probably not; that's probably Redline but it is more costly and harder to find. The Amsoil is still a very good product. No, I'm not a dealer.

Joe

i'm noticing that some of you use OE weight oil and some use #w-30, does anyone think there will be a problem using 5w-30 synthetic oil? I'm asking this, cuz prior to honda changing over to 5w-20, my last honda, i used 5w30 oils and my other previous cars also use the same weight. Will there be any problems using a higher weight oil from OE oil weight?

If there isn't a problem, i may use Mobile 1 5w30 or Lubro Moly 5w30 full synthetic oil and Mobile 1 oil filter.

No problems mechanically whatsoever. But per the warranty the required weight is 5w-20. If an issue was to occur involving an engine malfunction, Honda COULD try and deny coverage.

No problems mechanically whatsoever. But per the warranty the required weight is 5w-20. If an issue was to occur involving an engine malfunction, Honda COULD try and deny coverage.
What!! what's the dilly on that....so, you're saying that if something might happen with the intake system cuz of breathing desert vs. breathing high elevation or sea air, they can deny service? i understand, of putting certain engine oil and the weight of the oil etc. for turbo engines 5w-40 or 10w-40 would be ideal, but is there any difference of 5w20 and 5w30 beside the minute in weight difference? Geezz....better talk to my head service manager about this.

Wasn't speaking specifics. What I am saying is that per the Honda warranty, the required API certified oil must be 5w-20 viscosity. I wouldn't say that a problem with the intake system would have any oil relation per the warranty. Honda though would have the right to deny coverage for any issue that they could say was related to the use of improper oil viscosity. A person could take it to some sort of arbitration and argue the point, but it would still come down to not following the guidelines of the warranty agreement. It's not that anything would ever happen by using a 10w-30 oil, but legal matters and warranty issues can be highly binding in verbage. I've read where auto manufacturers obtain an oil sample from a possible claim vehicle to check for proper oil application before they would honor the warranty.
Just do what you wish. Your engine will probably never have any problem requiring a warranty claim. Just be aware that a warranty is a legal document that binds the owner and the manufacturer.

Wasn't speaking specifics. What I am saying is that per the Honda warranty, the required API certified oil must be 5w-20 viscosity. I wouldn't say that a problem with the intake system would have any oil relation per the warranty. Honda though would have the right to deny coverage for any issue that they could say was related to the use of improper oil viscosity. A person could take it to some sort of arbitration and argue the point, but it would still come down to not following the guidelines of the warranty agreement. It's not that anything would ever happen by using a 10w-30 oil, but legal matters and warranty issues can be highly binding in verbage. I've read where auto manufacturers obtain an oil sample from a possible claim vehicle to check for proper oil application before they would honor the warranty.
Just do what you wish. Your engine will probably never have any problem requiring a warranty claim. Just be aware that a warranty is a legal document that binds the owner and the manufacturer.
i was just kidding basil:D , thnx for the fyi,i'm considering using Mobile 1 5w30 or 0w30 if 5w20 isn't available to me. i may also consider using lubro Moly 5w30 vol synthesis full synthetic if Mobile 1 is not available with Mobile 1 oil filter or supertrac filters from previous posts.

So if the computer tells you when to change regular oil (because it knows its breaking down)what does it do when useing synthetic? Do you get the change oil # at 10,000miles or more? And if not why since the computor monitors the regular stuff why not the synthetic? Or is it actually monitoring oil pressure, filter or ??

You should change synthetic at the same interval as dino. One company has taken a valid concept for heavy duty commercial engines (change via oil analysis) and trys to apply the concept to light duty automobile engines (extended drain intervals). It's an invalid concept for our vehicles.

Why do you change your oil? It's not because the oil is "worn out". We change it because it gets dirty. The tolerances in our engines are very tight. Dirt that would be of no concern in a large, heavy duty commercial engine is a major problem for our engines.

So this comes down to one issue: Does synthetic oil not get dirty like conventional oil? A good synthetic oil will actually be dirtier than a conventional oil. Some synthetic oil companies actually formulate their additve package so the oil doesn't hold as much dirt in suspension (a bad thing, but it looks better to the average person).

So we change oil to get the dirt out of the engine. A good synthetic oil should get just as dirty, or dirtier than dino. Synthetic oil should be changed on the same schedule as dino.

Let's say you changed the oil on two identical Ridgeline's last week with two different oils. Today you check the oil on both. The first Ridgeline's oil looks black and dirty, but the second Ridgeline's oil still looks clean. Which oil would you prefer? I want the black, dirty one! I know that oil is doing it's job. The same amount of dirt is in both engines, but the dirty oil is holding it in suspension like it's supposed to do. What about the one with the clean looking oil? That same dirt went somewhere... probably on the bottom of the pan or valvetrain as sludge. Most people think clean looking oil is good... not true.

For our engines the benefit of running synthetic oil is superior lubrication. Not how long you can go between oil changes.

-Joe