Upgrade the subwoofer?

OK, I've just about had it with the weak subwoofer. Just began doing some investigaton into what can be done. I'm not sure of any of my info, but here's what it looks like to me.

Apparently there are no external amps in the Ridgeline. All 160 watts comes from the head unit (either the sub has it's own amp or the 160 watts is peak not RMS... I don't think they could get 160 watts RMS out of a head unit). I really expected there to be an amp in the sub enclosure, and there may actually be one there, but neither the parts catalog or the service manual indicate such.

From what I can see in the service manual there are only two wires going to the sub. If that's the case then we know it's not a powered sub.

Someone posted that the sub enclosure was a "sealed unit". I have never actually seen the unit, but it would seem hard to believe there's no way to take it apart.

I'll throw out some questions... if anyone can shed some light on any of them or add to the issue it will be apprecaited.

Is the sub enclosure really "sealed"... can't be disassembled without damage?

How many wires actually run to the sub enclosure? Any power going to it?

I can see there's a pigtail connector coming out of the sub... what kind of connector is on it? If it's some kind of standard connector it will be easy to create an upgrade sub enclosure as plug and play!

Some of you that have taken the rear seat out or have seen the sub enclosure please chime in here!

Thanks,
-Joe

Pioneer 10 inch sub in a plastic ported enclosure. Two wires.

160 watts from a deck is normal nowadays. 35 watts x 4 @ 4 ohm and under 1% THD is the norm for high powered decks.

There might be an external sub amp in the vehicle. When I took apart the dash to install an aftermarket deck, I saw what looked like an amp behind the lower dash.

I've got pics of hte sub enclosure if you really want to see it.

10" you say? I thought it was an 8" sub. I see several articles that call it 8"... here's what Edmunds says:
"Our test truck was the high-line RTL model, which additionally includes an in-dash six-disc CD changer, 160-watt amplifier, an 8-inch subwoofer behind the rear seat and standard XM Satellite Radio."

The service manual shows no external amps. The MDX manual shows the two external Bose amps in that model so I have to believe it would show them for the Ridgeline if they existed.

Have you taken apart the sub enclosure?

8" sub inclosed in a sealed unit which can't be disassembled, BOSE amp in the center of the dash below the IP, sub is connected with a coupler which could be dis-assembled if you could find out where each wire came from ;)

My bad, it is an 8 inch. Got mixed up. I'm putting a 10 inch Morel Elite sub in my RL.

My bad, it is an 8 inch. Got mixed up. I'm putting a 10 inch Morel Elite sub in my RL.


In any case, it is ported and in plastic.


http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/audio_install1/factorysub1.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/audio_install1/factorysub2.JPG
http://www3.telus.net/25or6to4/audio_install1/factorysub3.JPG

Where are you going to put the 10" sub? How you going to amp it?

Looks like only two wires going to the factory sub. Going to need an amp that can handle the high level speaker inputs.

-Joe

What kind of battery were you using? Optima?

What is the width of the area behind the bed panel? I'm thinking about installing an inverter back there.

Thanks! :)

Thanks, it's perfect. I'm planning on using a marine inverter and a Hubbell twistlock socket, with a power strip pigtail.

OK, decided to investigate the subwoofer for myself. Here are my findings:

1. The enclosure is not sealed contrary to previously provided information. Clamshell style enclosure held together with about 16 phillips head screws. Nothing special or unusual about the enclosure or taking it apart.

2. To call it a subwoofer is a stretch. It's a very lightweight, cheap 8" speaker.

3. It's a non-amplified unit. Only two wires in, simple wiring, no amplifier.

Here are a few pics:

My RTS has plenty of bass in my opinion. I was playing a Cheyle Crow Greatest Hits CD great album realy bad mix.
It had so much bass in it I had to turn the subwoofer off and turn the bass off.

I guess if you guys that are upgrading your subwoofers may want to get this CD, if you go four weelin and get all muddy you could probably rattle all the dirt clods off if you crank it up enough.

Or maybe put a twenty incher in the trunk and some of those twenty two inch wheels and you will have the makings of a first class pimpmobile.

My RTS has plenty of bass in my opinion. I was playing a Cheyle Crow Greatest Hits CD great album realy bad mix.
It had so much bass in it I had to turn the subwoofer off and turn the bass off.

I guess if you guys that are upgrading your subwoofers may want to get this CD, if you go four weelin and get all muddy you could probably rattle all the dirt clods off if you crank it up enough.

Or maybe put a twenty incher in the trunk and some of those twenty two inch wheels and you will have the makings of a first class pimpmobile.

I'm somewhat of an audiophile. I've done quite a bit of work in the sound engineering field over the years although it was never my primary vocation. Have done everything from a redesign of sound booths at RCA Records in the 80's to an Elton John live concert in the 90's.

I'm personally not interested in the rest of the world hearing my bass, but I am interested in accurately reproducing the sound as it was intended. The factory sub is apparently not capable of reproducing a large spectrum of the sub-harmonics assigned to it. It's punchy at what should be the upper range of a subwoofer, but the really low frequencies are completely absent or fall off horribly.

For the average listener the factory system would probably be fine. For anyone that knows what a song should sound like would not be happy with the factory system.

I'm interested in authentic sound reproduction... not what some would call ghetto bass. On the other hand some songs should have bass that shakes the mirrors and felt in your chest. If it is supposed to be experienced in such a way I want it to do it.

The good news is that it appears that the Rideline will be fairly simple to upgrade. The doors will apparently handle 6.5" drivers, and the subwoofer can easily be replaced. The head unit having a subwoofer control will help greatly too.

My plans are not elaborate. Replace the door speakers (hoping the 25 watt per speaker is enough to drive a high efficiency driver without having to amp it). Disconnect the factory sub. Run the factory sub input into a custom enclosure that fits under the rear seats. Will need about a 350 watt mono amp that tolerates high level input well (Alpine?) and a 10 - 12" high quality sub (size depends on what enclosure we can work out). Maybe dual opposed 10's like a Bazooka, but much higher quality would be an option I think (duals would need more power). Haven't measured available area yet (we'll fill a big plastic bag full of shipping foam and close the rear seats down on it to give us a footprint to work with).

It's fun to work with this stuff and I might end up changing it several times before I trade off the truck.

-Joe

Nice work in progress mugen1...

Great work so far, guys.
I'm also looking for better sound without "ghetto bass".
More like what csimo wants to do, replacing front speakers and sub with
an amp off the head unit. Worked great in my civic and was invisible.
What about building a sub box to fit into the stock location, to replace that plastic thing?
Looks like you are good at that mugen1. :)
Thanks for the pics.

Can someone post a pic of the doors naked?

I understand that putting sound deadening material on the doors works wonders for the speakers on Honda vehicles. I know the speakers in the doors only take like 15 minutes to take apart, but it's always better to see the actual thing before starting.



thanks in advance
Definitely need sound deadening.
Try this link for pics. I could'nt get them to show up.
They do explain it a little.
http://www.tintdude.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=17235

mugen1, those rubber thingies are called Wellnuts, trademarked, as in Kleenex.

You speak of sound deadening material, do you mean Dynamat or equivalent?

That stock 8" driver looks pretty pathetic. You have me reconsidering selling off my old audio equipment I removed from the Ranger.

I am watching your upgrades closely.

One of the first things I did to my Ranger was to gut the interior and Dynamat it. My wife thought I was nuts.

The factory subwoofer does look pathetic, but so does the enclosure. Looks like 1/4" thick at best. Hey mugen1, I know it looks like you solved your battery issue, but have you ever checked out the Tsunami website? They have new batteries ou that produce something like 2250 cca(cold cranking amps) in a package smaller than the Optima Deep Cycle. They also have 40 Farad capacitors among other things. It's worth checking out if you have the time. Best of luck with the system!

Audio upgrades are right now at the bottom of my list. Would I Dynamat the interior again? Sure. I bought factory second Dynamat to save money. It wasn't quite as pliable at ambient temperature, so I just passed the heat gun over it and it was like first quality.

Does any one know how much room there is behind the back seat?
I was looking at getting a Infinity Basslink t.
Dimensions are as follows: (H x W x D): 14-3/8 x 40-3/8 x 6-7/16 if you want more specs. goto:
http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/category.aspx?Ser=BSL.
Has anyone installed or considered the Basslink t?
I would be very interested in any info. that could be given

Thanks

The stock sub is about 4 inches deep at the point where the speaker is located. Don't think this box will fit.

There is decent room behind the rear seat, but not enough room for speakers. I added a 10" diamond audio in a fiberglass enclorure underneath the passenger rear seat. It sounds really good. My co-worker used to work for Car Toys and he has everything. He wanted me to do 3- 10's, but I did not want to give up all my space.

Pictures, please? :)

I have a brand new JL Audio 8W6 that's just begging me to build a box for it.

Could a modest improvement be made just by replacing the stock 8" driver with a better one in the same factory enclosure?

blaupunkt make some really shallow subs in the 2" deep area. I havent checked the pricing or performance but i was reading about them earlier this year clicky (http://www.blaupunktusa.com/BlaupunktUSA/Products/Speakers/Overdrive/Subwoofer)

Could a modest improvement be made just by replacing the stock 8" driver with a better one in the same factory enclosure?

I don't think it would do any good. Not enough power to run a real subwoofer. Need to add an amp.

-Joe

Exactly. I also wonder what kind of room is behind the rear seat and under the front seats. From my view, not much. Maybe I'm missing something.

hardly any room under the front seats. I have my amp mounted behind the back seat, pleanty of room back there.

I have a question , how hard was it to remove the back seat , asking because i want to replace the factory speakers and sub with quality stuff but dont want to go all out like i did with my accord because i have a lease so what they dont see wont hurt them , there's a few 8 in sub in the market and i just need something a little better then what's there now , if i have to add a small mono amp then someone said there is room behind the rear seats that wont be to bad but like i said i just want to try and stay within lease limits ;) even though i know i can just get it removed at the end of my term

I'm personally not interested in the rest of the world hearing my bass, but I am interested in accurately reproducing the sound as it was intended....I'm interested in authentic sound reproduction...
-Joe

I'm sorry - I know this is an old thread, but I nearly fell off my chair laughing when I read this. You seem to be overlooking the fact that you're sitting inside a truck listening to music. By the time the music hits your ear drums it includes a nice blend of drive train sounds and wind noise. Not to mention the sound reflection off all the glass and other hard surfaces. Also, let's not forget that, as the driver, you're stuck in one corner of the precision mixed sound field.

You will never achieve your audiophillic desires inside a steel and glass box.

I was hoping mugen would respond to that.....

Until you have been in a car/truck/van with an excellent sound system you shouldnt even reply to this thread because you dont have a clue...I also have been in IASCA for years, I have been to World finals(invitation only event) and i can tell you that you can get home theater sound out of your vehicle using the correct equipment. Car Audio still rocks the road today!!!!

Until you have been in a car/truck/van with an excellent sound system you shouldnt even reply to this thread because you dont have a clue...I also have been in IASCA for years, I have been to World finals(invitation only event) and i can tell you that you can get home theater sound out of your vehicle using the correct equipment. Car Audio still rocks the road today!!!!

Be nice dude, that's twice today.

my bad, I am not trying to be mean, im just to the point. If they dont know what they are talking about then they dont need to get into a thread and then dog car audio when that person doesnt have a clue about what it sounds like. thats all i'm saying, so they need to be nice also.

Question: I am considering having installed a custom fiberglass box for a single 10" memphis subwoofer under the R seat. 4 Eclipse In the doors (dynamated) speakers.
Memphis 5 Ch. hybrid 600 W amp.
This can be Equed by the Eclipse head unit. I'll carpet over the guarded amp placed on the floor near the woofer in order to maintain access. 2 pivoting ear level tweeters surface mounted on the triangle inside the side mirrors.

Another question: what happens to the original power from the HU ? is it cancelled , added, multiplied or what?

Please comment on both. Thanks in advance.
dsnove

original power is still there just not in use, an amp will take the stock signal and increase it by whatever wattage it has. in other words you can still leave the factory speakers hooked up, add another set and ply the from the amp you would have them all working, but you wouldnt want to do that waste of time . Just use the amp, you might think of using another amp just for th esub so it can be tuned even better. hope that helps

As with every car I've ever owned, I also will be upgrading the sound. The sub controversy, like anything, is a matter of opinion. I too, appreciate the details of all types of CD music, and wish to reproduce it accurately. For example, I prefer the sealed enclosure, small to mid size sub, for accurate, tight bass that probably won't impress the fitycent crowd, but rather the Jaco Pastorious fans.

Since my Ridgeline is only 1 week old, I haven't had time to dig in, but I plan on replacing door speakers w/ 6-1/2" drivers and a sub w/ sep amps. Nothing "huge" - don't need it in that cabin. Got to find room for sub. To be honest the factory drivers sound decent.

Does anyone know the dimensions of the stock subwoofer box? If it is big enough, I am going to find a replacement 8" woofer to fit. Anything will sound better than whats in there. Parts-express.com has a calculator to determine cubic feet from h-w-d dimensions. They will show a list of drivers that will work. Thanks

Anything will sound better than whats in there.

Wrong.

You do not want to replace the stock 8 inch woofer with another.

The factory sub is a vented design. The port length and diameter is specifically designed for that woofer and that cabinet. It may be seem simple to just put in a better 8 inch driver, but it might very well sound worse. If it were a sealed design - you'd have a better chance of getting decent sound out of it. But that plastic cabinet probably would be POOR for a sealed design. I bet it is not very rigid, and it probably is not airtight. That cabinet will probably expand and contract, generating its own sound and resonances with the pressure generated by a woofer. It might even rattle.

Designed a vented system requires at minimum 3 key driver specifications (VAS, qts, and Fs) plus the volume of the box. Lots of software available to do that.

Just thought that I would chime in.
Removed stock sub in order to mount a class D amp (for new subs, along with another amp for my door speakers) T

The door speakers are now CDT separates with the tweets mounted in the door wing panel (little triangle where mirrors are). Built a subbox with smallest sealed dimensions for a pair of 8" solobarics, that may end up being 3, or possibly even 4 depending on how they sound. I will have WAY to much amp as the class D is the hifonics BX1500. But I am not looking to make noise (I hear the higher end folks laughing at my choice of subs now...) But they seem like they might have the best bang for the buck, plus I can fire them forward OR back since the box can be symmetric...With 10s it would have to either fire up or down, but not either. Also, I am moving from a 12" soundsplinter sub that was amazing, and could handle everything the amp had to offer, -at least as far as I could tell, as I do not play to ear-splitting levels.
The deck was replaced with the JVC AVX1 with in dash DVD, DVD-MP3, Sirius, etc. Though I am not sure if I am happy with that setup right now, as the sound is sort of hollow. -Still a big improvement over stock, as I now have vocals at least, and they are much more detailed. I need to determine if the sound effect that I am getting are the doors needing dynamat, the truck interior itself, or the JVC...

MW

some advice, please?

I've upgraded the 6 speakers to Infinity Reference components and coaxials, and left them in their stock location. I have no interest in replacing the head unit (at least not now), and don't necessarily want to add an amp to any of my L and R speakers.

that said, I would like to tighten up the sound from the sub. Not interested in lots of booming and thumping, I'm more interested in a crisp, clean, tight low end. What do y'all think is the smallest sub and lowest-powered amp I could add on, and not drown out my mids and highs? Enclosure style?

To make matters worse, I don't want to give up much storage space. I'm thinking amp where the sub is presently, with the sub under the rear seat, if the amp and sub won't both fit behind it... I've got the storage system (not the tray) under there, and don't want to lose it.

Did anyone ever check out the Blaupunkt Overdrives - the shallow (2" or so) subs? Opinions?

not asking for much, am I?...thanks in advance, all
Don

I am steadily making progress on my audio upgrade. One of the items settled is my sub. Keep in mind I have not done anything but advance my plan and acquire components. I really wanted to build a new sub that would fit where the factory sub is but decided that it would be too hard to generate a real improvement with a very shallow and small internal volume box. I looked at several shallow woofers but not the Blaupunkt. Anything 10 inches or larger typically needs .5 cu ft of volume and I wasn't convinced I could actually do that behind the seat.

So I will build (starting this weekend) an approx. .5 cu ft. box with this woofer http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-462. The box will be approx. 18 in. w x 7.5 in. tall x 12 in. deep. The system will be sealed and fire downward. The box will sit on 1.5 inch legs, using the full 9 in. of vertical space under the seat.

I believe one of the keys to obtaining clean bass is to get the full range of bass OUT of the door speakers. I believe one of the reasons the factory system sounds muddy or thick is because both the sub and the door speakers reproduce bass. They overlap. The door speakers (including your Infinity separates) probably will play cleaner and louder if they don't have to reproduce the lowest bass.

I will use a high pass crossover (say 80 hz) on the feed to the doors. The sub will get a low pass at that frequency.

I am steadily making progress on my audio upgrade. One of the items settled is my sub. Keep in mind I have not done anything but advance my plan and acquire components. I really wanted to build a new sub that would fit where the factory sub is but decided that it would be too hard to generate a real improvement with a very shallow and small internal volume box. I looked at several shallow woofers but not the Blaupunkt. Anything 10 inches or larger typically needs .5 cu ft of volume and I wasn't convinced I could actually do that behind the seat.

So I will build (starting this weekend) an approx. .5 cu ft. box with this woofer http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=295-462. The box will be approx. 18 in. w x 7.5 in. tall x 12 in. deep. The system will be sealed and fire downward. The box will sit on 1.5 inch legs, using the full 9 in. of vertical space under the seat.

I believe one of the keys to obtaining clean bass is to get the full range of bass OUT of the door speakers. I believe one of the reasons the factory system sounds muddy or thick is because both the sub and the door speakers reproduce bass. They overlap. The door speakers (including your Infinity separates) probably will play cleaner and louder if they don't have to reproduce the lowest bass.

I will use a high pass crossover (say 80 hz) on the feed to the doors. The sub will get a low pass at that frequency.

Did you look at the pioneers
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/article/0,,2076_4057_104401920,00.html
I heard them at a shop locally they sound good, it was in an enclosure that i think was less than one cubic foot, but the only draw back is since its shallow,excursion is limited so i would think even with the 12" you would need two for some decent bass (not brain pounding or chest thumping)

I did look at that exact driver when I thought about building a sub behind the seat. It is designed for good performance in small boxes. It is also a very interesting driver - just in the way it is built. But once I passed on building a box behind the seat I didn't need shallow any more. Below is a predicted response graph of both the Pioneer and the driver I will use in a box of similar size. The box for the Pioneer represented in the graph is actually a bit larger. The blue line is the Pioneer - the red/orange is the Dayton. I am simply astounded at how much woofer some people put in their cars. It is common for a home theater system to have just one 12 in. subwoofer for a 1,800 cu. ft. space. The graph below is adjusted for the response rise that occurs in a car of average size and shows that both woofers should easily reach 110 db with 200 watts. I'm sure that's enough for me.

Could we use the factory wires running to the sub as a "Line-in" connection? Like connect some RCAs to the ends and plug in a powered sub?

There are a few answers to your question.

1. No - you shouldn't put RCAs on the speaker level feed to the factory sub and use that as a line-in. It actually might work for a while - but line inputs are designed for high impedance, low current signals.

2. You shouldn't have to do this - because many, perhaps most, powered auto subs accept both line inputs and speaker level inputs. The first two I looked at in the Crutchfield web site - a Kenwood and an Infinity handle both line inputs and speaker level inputs. I don't know if the inputs are stereo, mono, or switchable. You might need to check that or determine if you need a Y adapter.

There are a few answers to your question.

1. No - you shouldn't put RCAs on the speaker level feed to the factory sub and use that as a line-in. It actually might work for a while - but line inputs are designed for high impedance, low current signals.

2. You shouldn't have to do this - because many, perhaps most, powered auto subs accept both line inputs and speaker level inputs. The first two I looked at in the Crutchfield web site - a Kenwood and an Infinity handle both line inputs and speaker level inputs. I don't know if the inputs are stereo, mono, or switchable. You might need to check that or determine if you need a Y adapter.
YES! Thanks for the response. The sub I'm getting is the kENWOOD KSC-SW1 (http://www.crutchfield.com/S-3DtiqWGTHX8/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=51000&id=detailed_info&i=113KSCSW1#Tab) It does have the speaker level inputs. Here's the install manual (http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/113/113KSCSW1.PDF). :)
Can I wire the right and left wires (circled below) coming from the sub to the 2 wires coming from the HU for the existing sub?
http://www.sbcompserv.com/images/ridgeline/wire.jpg

Your sub wants stereo inputs. You have a mono sub output. So you should "split" the factory subwoofer wire to connect to both speaker level inputs to the sub.

Factory sub + wire goes to sub Left + input (white) and Right + input (gray)
Factory sub - wire goes to sub Left - input (white/black) and Right - input (gray/black)

I do not know which factory sub wire is +. It really won't matter. You may need to use the sub's phase switch for best sound.

Thank you for spelling that out for me. I really appreciate it! I get the sub today and will edit this post with my install experience to share with others. We really should establish a points system to get helpfull members like hofffam discounts or brownie points.
YOU DA MAN hofffam (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/member.php?u=1587)! :D

No thanks needed!

Did you replace the door speakers too?

I think one of the overlooked items for people to get better sound is to relieve the door speakers of the very low frequencies that are best handled by the subs. Honda drives the door speakers full range, which is a lot to ask of a 6 1/2 inch speaker. It wastes amplifier power. And finally the overlap between the sub and the door speakers creates unpredictable interaction that can cause boom or a dip in sound depending on frequency.

Something to consider is to filter the lowest bass from your door speakers with "Bass Blockers." They are widely available and inexpensive. They are really just a capacitor which acts as a gentle high pass filter.

Hofffam,

Starting at what frequency would you start to block? I'm not sure what frequencies the stock subwoofer would best handle.

- Troy

The Bass Blockers are simple filters and work gradually. They do not cut low frequencies sharply. To cut more sharply would require a coil in addition to the capacitor and raise costs.

Bass Blockers recommends 150hz as the cutoff for 6 1/2 inch speakers. That's probably a good choice, especially if your subwoofer is crossed around100 hz. A 150hz cutoff means that at 75hz the response will be down 6 db, and down another 6 db at 37.5hz. That takes a lot of load off the speaker.

If your subwoofer crosses over much lower - you risk having a dip in response between the sub and the door speaker with a 150hz cutoff. But I wouldn't choose a low crossover for a sub unless you can avoid the dip in response with an active crossover.

Your sub wants stereo inputs. You have a mono sub output. So you should "split" the factory subwoofer wire to connect to both speaker level inputs to the sub.

Factory sub + wire goes to sub Left + input (white) and Right + input (gray)
Factory sub - wire goes to sub Left - input (white/black) and Right - input (gray/black)

I do not know which factory sub wire is +. It really won't matter. You may need to use the sub's phase switch for best sound.
Damn! Almost there homie! I'm stuck on the P Cont wire. Says I need to wire it under the hood but not sure where. Is there a wire in the cab somewhere I can attach this thing to? What is this wire for?
Thanks Again.

It looks like that wire is the remote turn on wire. I think "P Cont" means power control.

That wire needs to connect to the remote turn on wire in the Honda headunit. When the radio is turned on that wire has +12V which triggers a relay in the sub to turn it on. Power amplifiers generally are turned on that way because the main power lead can draw too much current for most switches (like the ignition) in the car.

It can also be connected to a power antenna lead provided by most head units.

I don't have the color codes handy for the Honda head unit harness, but they have been posted here several times. You should be able to use a tap connector to connect that P cont wire.

I looked at the wiring color codes for the 20 pin connector on the 6 disc changer. The wire labeled "remote" (grn/red) is NOT the one you want. That wire is for the steering wheel controls.

In fact I don't see a remote turn on wire for the factory headunit. It is possible that one of the wires that goes to the antenna turns on when the radio turns out because apparently the RL has an antenna booster.

You probably could use the ACC wire (yel/red) to the head unit as the P cont connector. Maybe someone else here has a better suggestion.

Mission Complete! Kenwood speakers all around. I upgraded the doors; check out my post on using adapters (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=91051&postcount=7). I finally figured out the wiring for my powered subwoofer upgrade; thanks to homie (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/member.php?u=1587).
CLICK PIC TO SEE LARGER IMAGE
http://www.sbcompserv.com/images/ridgeline/sub1.jpg (http://www.sbcompserv.com/images/ridgeline/sub.JPG)
Here are some install details:
- Yes, this fits well behind the seat
- Power Control wire was connected to rear center ACC plug
- Poked through the firewall using the rubber seal above and to the right of the gas pedal; to run the power wire
- Wired Left and Right Speaker level wires to the two factory sub wires; matching positive and negative
- Used 1" Pine for the base and Dynamat between the Pine and the sub
- Ran power and remote wires on opposite sides of the truck to avoid static
- Used these (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5960&highlight=kick+notch) posts to mount my sub
- Subwoofer -6, Bass +4, Treble C, and C for everything else
- Yes, it sounds great. Not a ground shaking bass but enough to ROC the Ridgeline! :D
Thanks ROC!

That's exactly what I'd like for a subwoofer upgrade. Too bad it's beyond my ability to wire something like that in. Wanna fly out to Boston sometime to wire one in for me? :D

Troy

Hey carlnunes - nice job. Glad its working well for you. I have never used Kenwood speakers but have used their electronics for a while and like 'em.

No one has every called me homie before. Is that a good thing or not?

No one has every called me homie before. Is that a good thing or not?
Yeah it's a good thing. It's street slang for Homeboy which is like a friend you have shared a bonding experience with. Check the Urban Dictionary! (http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=homie) :D

That's exactly what I'd like for a subwoofer upgrade. Too bad it's beyond my ability to wire something like that in. Wanna fly out to Boston sometime to wire one in for me? :D

Troy
You can do it! If you have any questions PM me and I'll help you out. :)

I sent you a PM with some questions, Carlnunes. :)

Troy

I have a question for anyone who has done this upgrade with the Kenwood unit:

Below is a picture of the back of the Kenwood powered sub. Is there any chance that the Honda oem sub connector plugs right in to the "power/speaker input"? If not, do you have to cut/splice the wires and then connect them to the RCA "Line In" inputs? Does there happen to be a connector to use instead?

- Thanks,
Troy

The factory sub connector will not plug in to the Kenwood "as is." But you do not splice into the RCA inputs. You need to remove the factory connector, and send the factory mono sub signal to both the left and right inputs to the Kenwood speaker level inputs. The Kenwood has a stereo input. So you simply want to send the factory signal to both left and right inputs. carlnunes did this....

I wonder if I could ask one of you trailblazers to post measurements of the factory sub box. If you did, I could calculate the volume and check out how close it would come to the specs for a couple of subs.

-Length x width x depth (if wedge shaped, maybe give minimum and maximum depth)

-Port length and port diameter.

JL Audio, for instance) makes some excellent subs that require low volumes in sealed chambers (of course you would need an amp, but that is easy enough to add.) If the current ported chamber is about right maybe it could be used. If not, it's easy enough to seal a port. If the box is not stiff and airtight now, I'm sure it could be stiffened and made to be airtight.

Otherwise having the box measurements would at least give us an idea of the actual space the existing chamber takes, so we know how much room we have to play with back there. Thanks!

ok well i knwo this was prob already posted, but having trouble finding it does anybody hae a diagram on hwo to get the back seat out and all that????

ok well i knwo this was prob already posted, but having trouble finding it does anybody hae a diagram on hwo to get the back seat out and all that????

The instructions on rear seat removal are a subset of the instructions listed here:

http://www.handaaccessories.com/ridgeline/backupcamera.pdf

Here's a pic of the box that I had built. Two 10 inch Kicker Comp's with an MTX 200 watt pushing them. Pushes them just fine. The installer did a fine job and the amp mount was well done(I can reach the gain and bass nobs from the front seat). $600 for the subs, box, kits, and labor(already had the amp). Was gonna add seperates, another amp, and replace the factory speakers with some decent 6 1/2's in the rear doors, but I don't feel like dumping another grand into it. Opting for a pair of Infinity Reference 2way 6 1/2's in the front and calling it good. Screw the back, 'cause I don't sit back there!

I wonder if I could ask one of you trailblazers to post measurements of the factory sub box. If you did, I could calculate the volume and check out how close it would come to the specs for a couple of subs.

-Length x width x depth (if wedge shaped, maybe give minimum and maximum depth)

-Port length and port diameter.

JL Audio, for instance) makes some excellent subs that require low volumes in sealed chambers (of course you would need an amp, but that is easy enough to add.) If the current ported chamber is about right maybe it could be used. If not, it's easy enough to seal a port. If the box is not stiff and airtight now, I'm sure it could be stiffened and made to be airtight.

Otherwise having the box measurements would at least give us an idea of the actual space the existing chamber takes, so we know how much room we have to play with back there. Thanks!

Search my posts and I gave approximate dimensions. I'm sorry but I am too lazy to search for you and I don't remember the dimensions. It is slightly wedge shaped and you have no more than 5 inches of depth in that box. No JL Audio driver will work. A few here have tried to replace the driver but the box is plastic and molded specifically for the factory driver.

There is no such thing as a port "about right."

The box is not stiff enough for a closed box. The box would expand and contract with woofer pressure and vibrate far too much. I suppose you could try to stiffen it but you'd have to use fiberglass or metal plate because wood is too thick.

Someone a while back posted pictures of the factory sub - you might try searching for factory subwoofer photo.

There is decent room behind the rear seat, but not enough room for speakers. I added a 10" diamond audio in a fiberglass enclorure underneath the passenger rear seat. It sounds really good. My co-worker used to work for Car Toys and he has everything. He wanted me to do 3- 10's, but I did not want to give up all my space.

I bet you are sounding sweet heard good things about diamond audio:D Be glad you did not listen to your co-wprkers as 2 10's in back, in most cases, max asspeakers need ample room to drive and push. I am sure heer is someone out there with 5 10's or 2 15's and while it may sound nice still a waste as it would onlybe for show. Good for you as I like the people that do their homework and get what works for them:cool:

Could a modest improvement be made just by replacing the stock 8" driver with a better one in the same factory enclosure?


Good ??? I think it can be done as I thought about installing 8's back there. I came across a couple threads some time back discussing this same issue. You canbut will sacrifice some quality and you have to find an after market that will be of decent quality and fit shallow box; good luck. here is a thought Alpine makes all the OEM for Honda and Acuras maybe their typw r series 8 may fit??

I wonder if I could ask one of you trailblazers to post measurements of the factory sub box. If you did, I could calculate the volume and check out how close it would come to the specs for a couple of subs.

-Length x width x depth (if wedge shaped, maybe give minimum and maximum depth)

-Port length and port diameter.

JL Audio, for instance) makes some excellent subs that require low volumes in sealed chambers (of course you would need an amp, but that is easy enough to add.) If the current ported chamber is about right maybe it could be used. If not, it's easy enough to seal a port. If the box is not stiff and airtight now, I'm sure it could be stiffened and made to be airtight.

Otherwise having the box measurements would at least give us an idea of the actual space the existing chamber takes, so we know how much room we have to play with back there. Thanks!

www.jlaudio.com they have pdf files for everything!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Their subs, amps, cleansweeps, and how pdf's and that includes enclosures and boxes. You can also call them; love them 150%

I don't believe Alpine makes all the audio components in the Ridgeline. There's a thread in here that talks about the speakers, subs, and 6 disc changer being provided by another supplier. Alpine does make a lot of audio equipment for other Honda cars.

Mission Complete! Kenwood speakers all around. I upgraded the doors; check out my post on using adapters (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=91051&postcount=7). I finally figured out the wiring for my powered subwoofer upgrade; thanks to homie (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/member.php?u=1587).
CLICK PIC TO SEE LARGER IMAGE
http://www.sbcompserv.com/images/ridgeline/sub1.jpg (http://www.sbcompserv.com/images/ridgeline/sub.JPG)
Here are some install details:
- Yes, this fits well behind the seat
- Power Control wire was connected to rear center ACC plug
- Poked through the firewall using the rubber seal above and to the right of the gas pedal; to run the power wire
- Wired Left and Right Speaker level wires to the two factory sub wires; matching positive and negative
- Used 1" Pine for the base and Dynamat between the Pine and the sub
- Ran power and remote wires on opposite sides of the truck to avoid static
- Used these (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5960&highlight=kick+notch) posts to mount my sub
- Subwoofer -6, Bass +4, Treble C, and C for everything else
- Yes, it sounds great. Not a ground shaking bass but enough to ROC the Ridgeline! :D
Thanks ROC!

Man! This looks so sweeeeeeet.Clean install and I am sure this sounds great

I don't believe Alpine makes all the audio components in the Ridgeline. There's a thread in here that talks about the speakers, subs, and 6 disc changer being provided by another supplier. Alpine does make a lot of audio equipment for other Honda cars.


Just went to CarToys show in Portland July 27th and Alpine had a tricked out RidgeLine: PDX amps customs installed in the back, yes in the back of the front seats; 4 trpe r 10 inches subs undear rear seats, and seat up for true 5.1 surround; left mt camera and been regretting it since! :D They chose the Ridgeline because theyare the marjor supplier spent over a hour talking to guys re the head unit with navi and 6 disk cnager alone. Showed them how i kept it and integrated a jl audio clean sweep. While I am sure they are not suppling 100% I am sure they they did or are now doing most. Now I must admit when i took the cheap sub out and after talking to these guys I definitely agree with you on I doubt they are producing the speakers, but who knows; the head units must ikely as it is the most expensive piece anyway.

Did a quick google search:

ALPINE ELECTRONICS DEBUTS LOWER COST 5.1 MULTI-CHANNEL SYSTEM IN ...The Honda Ridgeline was engineered and created by Alpine's in house Advanced Application team of Steve Brown and Gary Bell. The truck will appear at trade ...
www.alpine-usa.com/company_info/press_release/010506_ridge.htm - 8k



ALPINE ELECTRONICS DEBUTS LOWER COST 5.1 MULTI-CHANNEL SYSTEM
IN DAILY DRIVER SHOW VEHICLE

Honda Ridgeline Showcases Sound Quality System in a Practical Application



TORRANCE, Calif., Jan. 5, 2006 - Alpine Electronics of America, Inc. today debuted its 2005 Honda Ridgeline event vehicle with a complete 5.1 multi-channel sound system that delivers exceptional value. Alpine, a leading manufacturer of mobile multimedia electronics, unveiled the truck at the 2006 International Consumer Electronics Show (CES).

The Ridgeline was designed to showcase a full Dolby Digital/DTS 5.1- channel system in a compact installation, while keeping the truck's interior fully functional. The system is based around the DVA-9861 DVD/CD/MP3/WMA receiver. This head unit and the SBS-05DC 1-DIN center-channel speaker are installed in a molded enclosure in the dash. A Type-R SWR-1042D 10-inch subwoofer is installed at the base of the shift column and provides bass emphasis. Custom made fiberglass accents around the subwoofer mimic the grille design found on the Type-S SPS-171A 6.5-inch component 2-way speakers, which are mounted in the front doors. Blue, back-lit oval panels in the door provide subtle color accents.

The Ridgeline's rear doors feature one pair of Type-S SPS-17C2 6.5-inch coaxial speakers and round out the speaker placement in the cab. Two amplifiers power the Ridgeline's system, but are found in an unusual location. The MRA-F355 digital theater amplifier is flush mounted to the back of the passenger seat. This unit is a digital processor with a built-in 5-channel amplifier, so it eliminates the need for a separate digital processor - a benefit when installation space is an issue. A MRP-M450 mono amplifier is used as the sub amplifier and is flush mounted onto the back of the driver's seat. The driver and passenger will sit in comfort thanks to custom leather seats from Katzkin, in a dark gray/light gray color combination. The Alpine system is connected with Monster Cable wires and interconnects.

The Ridgeline's custom graphics touch on Alpine's 2006 corporate "Connect, Experience, Drive" campaign image, which is based on the five stripes of the Alpine logo reflecting various audio, video and navigation motifs. External modifications to the Ridgeline include an ATS body kit, which consists of custom fender flares and X-Treme running boards. BSA Motorsports 22-inch x 9-inch wheels with custom back center insert and chrome lip, and Falken ZiEX Series M + S High Performance All Season radial tires give the truck an aggressive silhouette. An AEM Brute Force cold air intake helps boost the Ridgeline's power. Meguair's car care products are used to keep the Ridgeline at show quality.

"We believe that multi-channel sound is the next big thing in automotive sound systems. Consumers should understand that they can create this experience in their vehicle without sacrificing their budget or their interior space," said Stephen Witt, Alpine's vice president of Marketing. "The Ridgeline show truck exemplifies how a multi-channel sound system can be created in a practical and fully functional application."

The Honda Ridgeline was engineered and created by Alpine's in house Advanced Application team of Steve Brown and Gary Bell. The truck will appear at trade and consumer events throughout 2006.

About Alpine Electronics
Alpine Electronics is an automotive electronics system supplier and an ISO certified global corporation. Alpine specializes in engineering and manufacturing products for mobile media systems that include audio, video, satellite-linked navigation and connectivity solutions. With research and development facilities in Asia, Europe and the U.S., Alpine is the automotive specialist for premium sound systems and vehicle navigation for both aftermarket and OEM factory installations. Alpine Electronics is a consolidated subsidiary of Alps Electric Co., Ltd., one of the world's premier manufacturers of electronic components for computer, communications and car electronics equipment. Visit www.alpine-usa.com to learn more about Alpine products or to find an authorized retailer.


Alpine Media Contacts:
Jennifer Cody | Connie Sung
WONGDOODY Communications
(310) 280-7717 | (310) 280-7963
jennifer.cody@wongdoody.com
connie.sung@wongdoody.com


Jennifer Cody
WONGDOODY Communications
(310) 280-7717
jennifer.cody@wongdoody.com

Connie Sung
WONGDOODY Communications
(310) 280-7963
connie.sung@wongdoody.com

I think I read somewhere that the sub is made by pioneer, which means the speakers may be also. The HU may be alpine, but that last post\ says nothing about alpines role in the factory system on the RL. Only that is has created one of it's own.

I don't believe Alpine makes all the audio components in the Ridgeline. There's a thread in here that talks about the speakers, subs, and 6 disc changer being provided by another supplier. Alpine does make a lot of audio equipment for other Honda cars.


Another quick google search ;)

2006 Honda Ridgeline - Mugen's Honda2006 Honda Ridgeline EX-L 2006 Motor Trend Truck of the Year! ... Audio/Video System: Alpine F#1 Status DVI-9990 DVD-Audio player Alpine F#1 Status PXI-H990 ...
www.cardomain.com/ride/2060065 - 36k - Cached - Similar pages

For the other memebers Mugen1 is the man as I test drive Ridgline in 2005 as soon as dealer had one and spent year researching and came across some of Mugen1's work with i am posting here in the hopes that it helps others as it had me and eventlly lead me to ROC:cool:

I think I read somewhere that the sub is made by pioneer, which means the speakers may be also. The HU may be alpine, but that last post\ says nothing about alpines role in the factory system on the RL. Only that is has created one of it's own.

that's is what i said in my comments regarding the head unit and doubtful re the speakers are they are of poor quality and made in china. Thought I would share as it was an interesting note. None one make 100% of anything on any of these vechilces and not even sure if Alpine make all the HU's but feel that they are most likely producer of the HU's that include the 6 disc and/or NAV

The Navigation system I believe is Alpine. The 6-disc I recall was Clarion? I should dig out mine from the depths of my garage and take a look at the markings. Nah......... too lazy. It was posted by someone not that long ago. Anyone remember what it was?

Mugen, interested in getting rid of your six disc?

Mugen, interested in getting rid of your six disc?

Not really. One day I will have to sell the Ridgeline. I wouldn't sell it with what I have in it right now. I was thinking the other day, I have a Nakamichi CD-45 hooked up in the garage. I should put that deck in the loser cruiser (84 Accord) and use the 6 disc Ridgeline deck in the garage.

The Navigation system I believe is Alpine. The 6-disc I recall was Clarion?

You're right on the first one...the 6 Disc is Pioneer.:cool:

man I love you guys as if it is known then you'll find out here:) I swear my general and overall knowledge has incresed 10 fold

Good ??? I think it can be done as I thought about installing 8's back there. I came across a couple threads some time back discussing this same issue. You canbut will sacrifice some quality and you have to find an after market that will be of decent quality and fit shallow box; good luck. here is a thought Alpine makes all the OEM for Honda and Acuras maybe their typw r series 8 may fit??

The headunit of the RTL is a Pioneer. It has a sticker that says so.

The factory sub box is no more than 5 inches deep (at the bottom). Very few traditional high end autosound subs are that shallow.

The manufacturer of the head unit depends on the trim level. The RTL / Nav head unit is made by Alpine. I think the rest are Pioneer systems, but haven't really paid that much attention to them.

All of the speakers are Pioneer regardless of trim level. The sub is a Pioneer box.

I felt the factory system was lacking as well. I upgraded my system and am very pleased with the results. I would like to eventually replace the head unit with the Pioneer Z1 but will live with the factory for now. I don't care about shaking the cars next to me with bass but like the full range of sound that can be acheived by aftermarket systems. I found the factory sub to be very weak in punch and accuracy. Replaced them with a audio enhancers ridgeline box and 2 fosgate p2 10s. Replaced the door speakers as well with 5.25" Alpine Type S and running 2 alpine amps mounted under the front seats. The best part is that at first glance everything looks stock it just doesn't sound stock.

The manufacturer of the head unit depends on the trim level. The RTL / Nav head unit is made by Alpine. I think the rest are Pioneer systems, but haven't really paid that much attention to them.

All of the speakers are Pioneer regardless of trim level. The sub is a Pioneer box.


That makes a great deal of sense and definitely why I replaced all of the speakers:D

I felt the factory system was lacking as well. I upgraded my system and am very pleased with the results. I would like to eventually replace the head unit with the Pioneer Z1 but will live with the factory for now. I don't care about shaking the cars next to me with bass but like the full range of sound that can be acheived by aftermarket systems. I found the factory sub to be very weak in punch and accuracy. Replaced them with a audio enhancers ridgeline box and 2 fosgate p2 10s. Replaced the door speakers as well with 5.25" Alpine Type S and running 2 alpine amps mounted under the front seats. The best part is that at first glance everything looks stock it just doesn't sound stock.

that factory thing was a sub?!?!, i thought it was just a crappy oversize speaker....lol

i'm only running 250 rms to the subs and thats plenty loud

Hello Everyone

Well i must say i just purcashed a RTL with out Navi.. I haven't even got the truck yet because the dealer didn't have the color i wanted,but i have been looking at this site for a few weeks now trying to find sme answers to my questions.

1.I looked at crutchfield.com and found a few head units with tv/dvd/navi built in and it seems i can replace the factory head unit with one of these.
2.after looking on this site i see that there is some type of PAC device i can purchase to give me the ability to use my steering wheel controls ?
3.After reading this Thred i see the subwoofer dose not have an amp and would asume that it just goes to the headunit?
If that is the case has anyone just made there own box for the sub to replace the factory box and if so which speaker have you use i was thinking something like a 8 with a small amp to push it and maybe upgrade the door speakers

I'm not sure if this is the place to post these questions, but thanks anyone for your help in advance

Micronib -

I did pretty much what your number 3 is suggesting - a Kenwood amp driving the sub only, replaced the stock sub with a Polk 8" driver, and replaced all four door speakers with Polk DB650's with bass blockers. I am quite satisfied, but then I am not a sound-head. If you really like volume, you might want to replace the head unit as well, or amp the door speakers too.

miconib

A lot of people have done variants of what you are asking. Carlnunes has some good posts. TypeS had a box built by someone else and ChrisM built his own as well as others. Search subwoofer and see what come up and you can see all the different posts. I know that right now www.subthump.com is working on a production box that will directly replace the oem sub

Deccide on a budget and work back from there. I got to Nav as I knew from the start I was going to design around it. Subs replacing the factory make a huge differnce and if you doin to do that then you can replace and dynamat the doors, at a reasonable price. Trust me you will here the quality improve 10 fold You do not need to nget all nhigh end stuff, just bfind the best products, within the price range you want.