Body Side Protectors (Honda) Install Summary

Here are some pic of installing the body side protectors. These are the Honda accessory panels. I got them from our pals at H & A (website sponsor).

I have actually had them for several months but finally got around to installing them today.

First, some simple before and afters. The first pic is the left side before. The second pic is the left side after. The third pic is the right side once I finished it.

Now for some installation tips.

First pic is the essential equipment. I did not use the Stanley tape measure because it did not have metric measurements. I instead used another tape measure that had the metric measurements on it.

The second and third pics are self explanatory.

The forth pic shows how to prepare the panel for installation. You put the painters' tape on the red adhesive backing to use as a tab when pulling out the adhesive backing (as shown in the fifth pic).

Now here are some pics showing the various measurements.

Looks great...were they hard to install, or take alot of time? We just purchased our RTS 3 weeks ago, and I am seriously thinking of buying them online and installing myself, since the dealers around here want way too much money.

Thanks again for sharing!

They were not very hard to install. It took me about 1.5 hours and I was moving slow and deliberately.

Looks great Zero. It's one of the first accessories that caught my eye but haven't seen many pics of it. Thanks.

Zero, those are instructions I could follow. Thanks for the detail. I appreciate your care and effort to help the rest of us have an easier time of it if we follow suit.

I am still hedging on the OEM side protectors. First of all, they are ridiculously expensive. Second, I don't really think they add much to the looks of the truck. Maybe that's because I haven't seen them in person.

That being said, I'm really pissed that we got a scratch on the door and I don't want any more of them. We may try some other type of protector if I can find something I like.

If we go with OEMs, I'll be back looking at this fine post for guidance.

Looks great zero,did you use the purple painters tape on the body?Are the tape mrkers under the molding or just butts up for a reference guide?Do the moldings settle in the hollow fairly well and the tape is just for final adjustment to make for a perfect alignment?
Just ordered my moldings today because of a parking lot ding on my 4 day old ridge with 192 miles :mad: I thought that the moldings were unattractive until I saw that ding.I want to get those side moldings on before people make my ridge look like a beer can on the highway.

Nice job zero. You should go into the accessory installation business. Very detailed and I like your "deliberate" style.

Zero, you da man! Instructions are very well laid out. I'll have to save up for those very expensive plastic bumpers next. I'm sure they are still way cheaper than a slab side of door dings on the sides of our brand new trucks.

I really feel that the side protectors enhance the look of the truck but if I purchase them, it will be for protection against door dings. Do those of you who have them installed feel that they offer enough protection/coverage to justify the cost? Have your protectors taken any hits yet? Have your door skins been hit even with the protectors installed?

Thanks for any feedback that you might offer and thanks to zero for the detailed info.

No dings on mine yet.

I wonder if a set gets too banged up if there would be a way to remove them and replace them.

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback. :)

No dings on mine yet.

I wonder if a set gets too banged up if there would be a way to remove them and replace them.

Thanks everyone for the positive feedback. :)
The double sided tape (3M) easily comes off, starting at one end and pulling the bumpers straight off. But once removed it is not reusable.

Nice write up and pictures on the install!

I went back and forth on the idea of having to buy the body protectors. I really hated to have to spend the $400 on something that should of come with the RL. With that said, I couldn't bare the thought of my truck sitting in the parking lot completely unprotected from door dings. After installing them, I thought it did look better with them in place. The door depressions, to me, need "filled" (for lack of a better word).

Honda Guy

Great job zero!! Your instructional guidance and pictures should convince anyone who wants them to be brave enough to do it themselves. I noticed that you also have running-boards. Are they high enough and do they stand out far enough to stop doors in parking-lots short of hitting your doors?
Nice work again!! :D

I don't think the running boards are high enough to stop any doors from hitting the truck.

Super job Zero....Love the pics and tutorial....they are extremely helpful. I am still debating about ordering and installing the body side protectors on our new RL. This is a really off-the-wall question, but due to the indentation in the door designs, do you think water could get through the top bodyside moulding adhesive and lay behind the mouldings? Thanks. :confused:

Nice job zero, I didn't have the metric ruler so I wound up just eying it. Took me 30 minutes alltogether. It really wasn't that hard and the indentation on the doors is a great guide. I read the instructions and practically gave up on it... I found it to technical. Its only side moulding, not some precision instrument.

But, I'm the type that don't follow instructions anyway. See http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2184 for side moulding pics.

But, if precision is what you wan't and have the time... buy a metric ruler.

mnmpa,
I am concerned about this as well. I have not washed the truck yet since putting on the pieces. I have driven in the rain and splashed through some big mud puddles. I have not seen water dribbling out of any gaps yet. I will keep you all posted.

Boy am I glad I paid for the side protectors. Smebody gave Ridgena a pretty deep boo-bo.
:eek:

Ouch! That is precisely why I got them as well.

I figure that if they get too banged up, I can take them off and replace them with a new set.

Ouch! That is precisely why I got them as well.

I figure that if they get too banged up, I can take them off and replace them with a new set.
OMG I didn't congratulate you on 1k posts. Nice job. Welcome to the K club!! :D

Thanks Ladyridge. :D

zero, with the group of us expecting our BSMs any day, I'm bumping this thread. You did an outstanding job in your pictures and explanations. It will help all of us that are doing a self install.

THANKS!

No problem, Truckin'. Glad to be of some help.

I'm going to tag on some installation pics with Zero to show how we modified the instructions a bit and got our BSMs put on to our satisfaction. We got our BSMs a couple of days after returning from Sedona but had to wait until the weekend for spare time and good weather to install them. Look at the beautiful day in this first pic taken in my backyard!

The most time consuming thing was driving all over town looking for a rubber roller. Zero, if you'd been online I would have inquired where you got yours. We went to Home Depot, WalMart, Target, Harbor Freight, Auto Zone, Sears, Bed, Bath and Beyond (sheer desperation) and finally to Lowe's before finding one. It's called a Jay Roller and is used for applying laminate counter tops. It cost $12. We got a flexible 18" ruler at Harbor Freight that has mm marks for $5. That's more than I wanted to spend for tools, but it was just what we needed.

This first pic is just of Harold holding up the top front trim to see how it looks. You install the back top trim first and work forward then back on the bottom. We followed the measurement instructions on the left side. By the time we added the second top molding on the front door, I noticed we were high at the opening side of the front door by about 1 or 2 mm. Not much, but enough that I wanted to make sure we didn't keep putting them on crooked. I'd just read a bunch of the install threads and recalled Duncan's tip for making a template out of thin cardboard. I found a piece of cardstock and cut the five lengths that are used with two of the 100 mm size for the lower trim on the front door. This helped us with the rest of the strips, but I still eyeballed them to make sure. We came up with yet another strategy on the passenger's side when the measurement method would have left the top front trim about 3 mm low.

It took a few minutes to cut the measuring templates, but it actually made the measuring go much faster. The 100 mm straight across on the front door and 100/102 mm slightly sloping space on the back door between the top molding and the bottom were a breeze.

When we started on the passenger side of the truck, we went faster than we'd gone on the driver's side. A word of caution: make your measurements in the approximate location of the lines in the drawing on the instruction page. If you measure too far in from the edges of the doors, it throws your lines off.

Another hint is for you to have another set of hands if you have the luxury of doing so. It sure helps on the stepping back to eyeball it and with getting both ends lined up. We also peeled it off after the initial end stick a couple of times and that would have been more difficult with only one person. I know a few people have done the whole thing without the measuring and most have done it by themselves, but I am not that brave.

When we placed the measurement for the front top molding on the passenger's side, it would have been about 3 mm low in comparison to the back right where they meet. This is when we decided to use the ruler as a straight edge to line them up in the middle. I'll post the finished left and right at the end. There's not a lot of difference, but I think the passenger's side has a better line to the moldings.

Here are the finishing steps and the end result.

Here are before and after pics and right and left close ups. Harold said the difference in front and back trim alignment on the driver's side isn't noticeable. I can see it, but it is minimal. Both front top and bottom are just a bit higher than the back trim where they meet. It's not worth trying to correct it. That would be a big challenge and it's nothing I'm going to lose sleep over.

After initially disliking the OEM body side moldings, I've come to find them beautiful. Thanks again to everyone who posted installation tips before we tackled the job. Thanks especially to Racer X for finding the great group buy deal that tipped the scale for us. I wished we'd had them on before going to Sedona, but we'll show them off at our next meet. Utah ROCers, are you ready?

Nice lookin truck. Where did you get the 4x4 stickers?

Nice install, Truckin. The little cardboard templates are a great idea, and I'll bet they really helped speed up the job.

My son and I installed ours this morning. Zero's photos were very hepful in getting things laid out. Thanks to him, and also Racer-X for working on the group buy that made them a lot more affordable.:)

Hey, maybe some of you "Silvers" should order the moldings in Amazon Green!! Might add a little splash of color to that bare primer :D

8007

8008

8009

Thanks, bonerep. I like the 4X4 decals a lot. It sure shows up and sets our truck apart. It's much easier to spot in a parking lot now. We got them from the same local guy who put on our Ridgeline Extreme decals and our pin stripes. We finally tracked him down to replace the word "Extreme" on the two small decals and add it to the large decal on the tailgate. We'd seen the 4X4 decal on a Ridge they had at our dealer's. Sam does all the work for them. We had him slap them on just before we went to Sedona.

If you want some, I'd suggest you get them from LadyRidge. Sam charges more than she, but he puts them on for us. I don't think we could afford to fly JC out to do that. Sam's terribly hard to catch up to and he won't return our phone calls. He's a delightful guy once we get him cornered. Now we know where he lives, so maybe we can find him more easily.

These 4X4 decals are two layers. The bottom is chrome and the top is a carbon fiber pattern.

Nice looking installs. I'm glad that my instructions and photos were of some help to you all.

Thanks for adding your photos and write-ups as well. More info and pictures is always better.

Great Photos, will use the tips when I order my side protectors for my silver.

Well, Uglyduck....hopefully this will help you imagine what your billet RL is gonna look like when you get your side moldings on. Driver side before and after pics I hope I get these pics in order. Here's my RL without moldings:

OK after pics with the side moldings:

This is my first mod, not counting the plastic liners for the trunk, and I am happier than a pig in poop. Hopefully next will be my Retrax cover and then the running boards!

Ok. I admit I am an idiot today.....

I went outside all set to "quickly" install my SBP, I had all of my needed tools and thought this can't be that hard. I measured (and re-measured) the first one and put it on. It didn't look right so then I read the directions. The directions are a little vague so I decided to see if anyone had posted a how to on the ROC. I found Truckin's post which was very, very helpful.

The template idea is a GREAT idea (whish I had planned it out a bit better and thought of it before I started). I had a 4 foot level that just happened to have metric on it as well. Obviously, I couldn't get into the spots very well with a four foot level to see 6.5mm. I was off by quite a bit and had to take the Upper, Front, Left Hand Side strip off. No problem to the paint or the actual plastic protector but the double sided tape is a mess and needs replaced. Any ideas where I might find some of that black double sided tape to replace what I messed up????? I really don’t want to purchase a complete other kit just to replace the one piece.

Feel free to rub it in as it was a real bonehead move on my part!!!

Ok. I admit I am an idiot today.....

I went outside all set to "quickly" install my SBP, I had all of my needed tools and thought this can't be that hard. I measured (and re-measured) the first one and put it on. It didn't look right so then I read the directions. The directions are a little vague so I decided to see if anyone had posted a how to on the ROC. I found Truckin's post which was very, very helpful.

The template idea is a GREAT idea (whish I had planned it out a bit better and thought of it before I started). I had a 4 foot level that just happened to have metric on it as well. Obviously, I couldn't get into the spots very well with a four foot level to see 6.5mm. I was off by quite a bit and had to take the Upper, Front, Left Hand Side strip off. No problem to the paint or the actual plastic protector but the double sided tape is a mess and needs replaced. Any ideas where I might find some of that black double sided tape to replace what I messed up????? I really don’t want to purchase a complete other kit just to replace the one piece.

Feel free to rub it in as it was a real bonehead move on my part!!!



TS,

If you got a local hobby shop nearby that carries the RC cars, they will more than likely carry a double sided tape made by "BOLINK". It is same stuff, just remarked under bolink name. It is a really good DS tape made by 3m.

Hope this helps

Mike

Hat's off to Zero,on the instructions.For striping or moldings that I install I use a thin strong string that I tape to a wheel well or tailight then pullit taught andtape the otherend to the same.

Put the molding against the bottom of the string making sure it's not bound anywhere and your applique is straight and true.

Nice tip Ridgid.... this is getting easier all of the time.

MikeFL, thanks for the suggestion. I will track that down tomorrow!!!

This is my first mod, not counting the plastic liners for the trunk, and I am happier than a pig in poop. Hopefully next will be my Retrax cover and then the running boards!
They look great - had dealer install mine because I'm just such an idiot when it comes to such things.

Lucky I got the Air Deflector on the hood without damaging anything:rolleyes:

She looks great ! even my mother (who is 78) said the side Protectors made the truck look perfect. She thinks the indents looked stupid after reviewing the pictures I had originally taken of the truck.

Now just have to save up for custom wheels one of these days~

I went to AutoZone on the way home form work tonight. They have the same double side black foam tape made by 3M that originally comes on the SBP.

Good stuff for any new projects and fixes in the future.

We went to Home Depot, WalMart, Target, Harbor Freight, Auto Zone, Sears, Bed, Bath and Beyond (sheer desperation) and finally to Lowe's before finding one. It's called a Jay Roller and is used for applying laminate counter tops. It cost $12.
I just got back from our local Lowes and came home empty-handed because they said that they don't stock this type of roller. I'm bummed because I was all hopped up to finally install my moldings today. :(

I have the templates all ready to go and I can see where they'll save a lot of time. To the person who offered this tip, thanks! :)

I didn't even use a roller, I just used a clean micro-fiber cloth and put plenty of pressure on it while running it up and down the molding. I installed mine today, and it was not bad at all. I think I was there for an hour and that including installing the tail light garnish, which looks really cool, but it more of a pain to install than the moulding.

Jon

I didn't even use a roller, I just used a clean micro-fiber cloth and put plenty of pressure on it while running it up and down the molding.
I'm thinking of going the same route. We don't need no steenkin' rollers! ;)

Trust me, I put as much or more pressure on it and the microfiber towel works great!

Jon:D

I went ahead and installed mine without using a roller. The tape that holds the protectors on is so sticky that I can't imagine it coming loose under normal conditions.

Thanks to everyone that offered installation instructions and tips! If I was in a position to install these on a regular basis, I'm confident that a re-usable template system could be made to knock the job down to 30 minutes. Just hook it onto the window sill, line it up front to rear and GIT-R-DONE!! (http://www.larrythecableguy.com/) :p

tschirtz, nah, not going to rub your nose in it. I hope you can correct them without cussing too much. It's a good cautionary tale for others. Let us know how your correction went and if you're happy with your results.

Don't feel bad. These things happen. I just cracked my tail light with my cordless drill while re-assembling the tailgate. I was just wrapping up my electric lock and backup camera install when the drill battery whacked the lens. Ouch!

I have been thinking about getting some side protectors, after reading some the posted comments I B ready. Its my birthday this weekend & my wife asked what I wanted, so here is my opportunity to get something for my RR:). Is one of the best places to buy the protectors still here at https://halcyon.webair.com/chesrownhonda/index.php/cPath/86 or do someone have a better spot?

Thanks...

I just installed the body side moldings today. I read through these posts and got good tips on the install. My wife dove right in to help measure and line them up.

It looks like the two of you did a fine job!

Nice looking install job.

I'm glad my instructions helped.

Great Instrucatuions, I will print them out for my install!

I just installed the body side moldings today. I read through these posts and got good tips on the install. My wife dove right in to help measure and line them up.

The install looks GREAT! So does your help :)

Am I missing something. Dont the strips just go into the indentions in the doors? What alignment is there? Measurements? Dont you just line it up with what you are covering?

Dazed and confused!

Robert

If you trust your eye and want to go for it that way, I suppose you can do what you want. I believe at least one person reported applying his by eye. You will find that a couple of people have gotten in a hurry and put one or more on crooked.

I found the curves and the lines a bit deceptive to my eye. There was one line of the two top moldings that would have been crooked if we hadn't spotted our error and used the ruler as a level to straighten them back out.

Also, the tape is VERY sticky. There's no easy repositioning once you start to apply them, even before you press them.

If you trust your eye and want to go for it that way, I suppose you can do what you want. I believe at least one person reported applying his by eye. You will find that a couple of people have gotten in a hurry and put one or more on crooked.

I found the curves and the lines a bit deceptive to my eye. There was one line of the two top moldings that would have been crooked if we hadn't spotted our error and used the ruler as a level to straighten them back out.

Also, the tape is VERY sticky. There's no easy repositioning once you start to apply them, even before you press them.

Am I missing something. Dont the strips just go into the indentions in the doors? What alignment is there? Measurements? Dont you just line it up with what you are covering?

Dazed and confused!

Robert

I just cut off two pieces of blue tape for each molding , and struck them on the windows to be handy.

Then without taking baking off, taped the strips in the indentions.

Make sure you leave the small space between the doors, or the doors won't open right. ( can't remember the measurement. Something like less than 1/4 inch )

Then I eyeballed them from all angles, adjusting them as needed.

Made sure all doors would open.

Then I placed tape below molding , and at door edge for a guide.

Then took them off one by one and installed per instructions.

Thanks guys.

I appreciate it. I thnought the pieces just naturally fell into place. I didnt know they had wiggle room.

Robert

Thanks guys.

I appreciate it. I thnought the pieces just naturally fell into place. I didnt know they had wiggle room.

Robert

Thanks guys.

I appreciate it. I thnought the pieces just naturally fell into place. I didnt know they had wiggle room.

Robert
You can see the instructions for installing them here.

http://www.handa-accessories.com/ridgeline/bodysidemolding.pdf

I just cut off two pieces of blue tape for each molding , and struck them on the windows to be handy.

Then without taking baking off, taped the strips in the indentions.

Make sure you leave the small space between the doors, or the doors won't open right. ( can't remember the measurement. Something like less than 1/4 inch )

Then I eyeballed them from all angles, adjusting them as needed.

Made sure all doors would open.

Then I placed tape below molding , and at door edge for a guide.

Then took them off one by one and installed per instructions.

I just did mine today. I started off by taking careful measurements and making the templates. However, once I actually begain applying the BSM, I found they would have been misaligned by a few milimeters. Doesn't sound like much, but it was noticable to me. I wound up using the above technique and things worked out great. Everything lines up well with consistent gaps all around.

I did my own install recently on the body side moldings. I went by the original instructions. No problems. But, when you take the measurements off of the body crease down to the indent, it is very easy to get different readings due to the placement of your tape measure on the crease. You can easily be off a millimeter or two because of the sheet metal bend of the crease isn't razor sharp and you can't be sure of where to place the tape measure exactly.
But I did my own and they came out pretty darn good.
take care, Eric

I installed the body side protectors following Truckin's instructions (Thanks!) but included the use of a string to establish the top edge of the molding. Established the marks at front of front door, between the doors and back of the back door. Then attached the string using electritions tape. Even though I gave it lots of tension, there was still a slight sag in the middle. Small piece of tape between the doors fixed that issue.

Only mistake I made was that I did not have the front door pieces as far back as instructed because could not see edge and hold the piece at the same time.

Looks good, Blu Ox. Nice install.

I was going to get them but dealer actually talked me out of it due to price, but the other day I checked out one of the sponsors here and their price was quite a bit lower than what Honda wants direct (I think something like $80 less) so I might change my mind on getting them now.

Does anyone have pics of mixing colors between the protectors and the truck color? Wonder how black protectors would look on my white?

IDoes anyone have pics of mixing colors between the protectors and the truck color? Wonder how black protectors would look on my white?

A few people have tried with mixed results. A search should turn up some photos.

Did mine yesterday. My thanks to Zero and Truckin for their posts and pictures. It gave me the courage to do it by myself on a truck with 350 miles on it. My first DIY modification. I'm so proud of myself :) . lol

I did cut out the templates for the measurements then using a very low adhesive masking tape taped them in place.

Things I learned IMHO:
1. The measurements they give you in millimeters puts you in a very good general spot for location of the moldings. Try and get as close as you can but do not drive yourself crazy. It took me 2.5 hours to do the first one side, with several interuptions. Only 45 minutes to do the other side because I was not sweating the measurements as much and I was in a hurry to meet a dinner reservation. I'm never late for dinner if you know what I mean :D .

2. On the rear doors make sure you allow enough room (6.5mm+) between the rear door moldings and the front doors. Otherwise when you open the rear door the new molding will hit the front door as it hinges/swings in.

3. Do it on a nice day (Instructions state above 60 degrees F) and I would recommend to do it in the shade. This will allow you to more easily reposition the leading and ending edge of the molding if it does not look quite right before you pull the rest of the tape off. Being in the shade the paint does not get super hot and the tape is not quite as sticky/tacky as it would be if you were in direct sunlight.

4. I also believe the way KH4800 (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2098&page=7) describes his install would work even better and faster. Just make sure that from front door to back door the "line" of the molding matches up. Too bad I didn't see his post until after I did mine. I probably would of incorporated some of his techniques.

5. If you have the normal black rubber door guards installed you can use them as a guide for the front doors. But you will have to move the rear door moldings back slightly to clear the opening when the back door swings in. I think somwhere I read you can not use the side moldings if you have "factory color matched door guards." I have not seen any of these but I would guess they are wider.

I think they turned out looking pretty good. I also think they give the truck a slightly bolder appearance. I like it.

Well thanks to all for your previous posts! Could not, would not, have done it without the support of ROC.

BTW, I added our ROC decal to the back window too. Now it's on to the next mod.....hmmmm...what should it be?

Did mine yesterday. My thanks to Zero and Truckin for their posts and pictures. It gave me the courage to do it by myself on a truck with 350 miles on it. My first DIY modification. I'm so proud of myself :) . lol

I did cut out the templates for the measurements then using a very low adhesive masking tape taped them in place.

Things I learned IMHO:
1. The measurements they give you in millimeters puts you in a very good general spot for location of the moldings. Try and get as close as you can but do not drive yourself crazy. It took me 2.5 hours to do the first one side, with several interuptions. Only 45 minutes to do the other side because I was not sweating the measurements as much and I was in a hurry to meet a dinner reservation. I'm never late for dinner if you know what I mean :D .

2. On the rear doors make sure you allow enough room (6.5mm+) between the rear door moldings and the front doors. Otherwise when you open the rear door the new molding will hit the front door as it hinges/swings in.

3. Do it on a nice day (Instructions state above 60 degrees F) and I would recommend to do it in the shade. This will allow you to more easily reposition the leading and ending edge of the molding if it does not look quite right before you pull the rest of the tape off. Being in the shade the paint does not get super hot and the tape is not quite as sticky/tacky as it would be if you were in direct sunlight.

I think they turned out looking pretty good. I also think they give the truck a slightly bolder appearance.

Well thanks to all for your previous posts! Could not would not have done it without the support of ROC.

BTW I added our ROC decal to the back window too.

Great job Jim, Looks factory installed to me.

Nice job Jim!...I installed mine yesterday too. I used KH4800's method...it was easy and came out perfect. The only measurement I took was the 6.5mm gap at the edge of the doors. I think everybody's tips are great...no matter which technique you use. Thanks everybody...couldn't have done it without you guys!

Here's mine...

After attempting to measure and mark with a masking tape, I've just eyeballed it. It took half an hour for four doors. as long as front and rear door pieces are lined up well, no one can tell if it is not measured.

Yeah, I just installed mine last night. I initially started to measure and tape... but due to the late hour... I began to just "feel" the location and eyeball it. It turned out really nice.

Ruhi and RTL Sparky...how about some pics?

Ok I had to give Zero props and post this here. I will probably post it new too though. I used a combination of all the hints here except instead of sting I just taped off a level line with blue painters tape.
Of note I did it! I finally put black side protectors on my silver ridge! PLUNGE!!! hope you like.

Few more pics plus a note right after I finished it started to rain!!!!
Befores and afters all mixed in sorry. Last pic is before stickers, front guard, and side steps, oh and lights too!

Interesting. The black-on-white looks good on silver. The alignment during installation would seem to be especially critical with a contrasting scheme, and you done a good job!

P.S. Welcome back RidgeDOC!

Looks kinda like racing stripes from a distance. Good job.

Hey RIDGEDOC, IT LOOKS GREAT!! WHERE YA BEEN??? YOU MISSED THE CLUB G.TECH MEETING!! J/K

Hey RIDGEDOC, IT LOOKS GREAT!! WHERE YA BEEN??? YOU MISSED THE CLUB G.TECH MEETING!! J/K

lol club Gtech I love it. Ive welll uh er been out. I don't want to lament what was going on personally, but I will check back more often now.

Anyone want details on my LOA or AWOL status PM me. Otherwise just know Im ok and Im back :)

I've been reading all the posts on body side protectors. It sounds like there was a group buy at some point and everyone put on OEM side protectors.

I was wondering if anyone has used another brand, for example, the ones sold by Sportwing (www.sportwing.com). If they quality is there, I would like to save a few bucks.

I've been reading all the posts on body side protectors. It sounds like there was a group buy at some point and everyone put on OEM side protectors.

I was wondering if anyone has used another brand, for example, the ones sold by Sportwing (www.sportwing.com). If they quality is there, I would like to save a few bucks.
As you continue reading, you'll find other threads that discuss non-OEM side protectors. Here's one: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6806

I was wondering if anyone has used another brand, for example, the ones sold by Sportwing (www.sportwing.com). If they quality is there, I would like to save a few bucks.[/QUOTE]

I recently installed the Sportwings and they really do look great. The color match in Silver is excellent.

I bought mine off of ebay, and the price is much cheaper than I have seen in previous posts... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-RIDGELINE-Body-Side-Mouldings-PAINTED-2005-2008_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33654QQihZ015QQite mZ250166559889QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

I've been reading all the posts on body side protectors. It sounds like there was a group buy at some point and everyone put on OEM side protectors.

I was wondering if anyone has used another brand, for example, the ones sold by Sportwing (www.sportwing.com). If they quality is there, I would like to save a few bucks.I bought mine for $110 shipped from eBay. I've also directed a few other ROC members and they all love this product. I know the guy sells them in chrome and black. My chrome ones have been on there for about 18 months and still look great.

Here is the thread with the info (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6130)

Nice very nice Zero,Thank you so much thats way better that the PDF instructions that come with it. Bravo my friend

Anyone tried silver protectors with white? Any photos would be appreciated.

Thanks a ton for the posts and pictures for installing the molding. I have several observations. The string idea is a must in my book since you have to have the same exact reference point and the crease in the door is great but you won't be able to measure it exact without the string. Second, the roller is a big help allowing you to pressure the molding into the cavities easily. And last on the FRONT doors I followed the 6 mm tape spacing from where the door opens and it is too much!! So my front door moldings are just slightly (I mean by a whisker) too far towards the front of the truck and there is a little gap I don't like since the molding is now (by a whisker I say!) riding out of the groove. So I would space the front door moldings further back towards the front door seam to get perfect placement in the grooves. I'm just a little worried that moisture will now get in between the molding and metal and freeze. Then begin to loosen. I followed the rear door 6mm spacing and those came out dead on. In the end I decided that Honda shoulda put these on at the factory and spared us all the dents and dings and hassle of installing them properly.

In the end I decided that Honda shoulda put these on at the factory and spared us all the dents and dings and hassle of installing them properly.It seems to be a Honda thing for no moldings. I had to put them on the Accord and I know the Civic doesn't have them, neither the Fit.

My side protectors should be here Friday, and I plan on installing them over the weekend.

Two questions: any ideas where to find a good roller? Is it like a paint supply? Or should I be able to find it at Lowes or Sears, etc?

And maybe this is just stupid newbie talking. I look at all the pictures and meticulous measurements people do. But...don't these just fit in the grooves in the doors? With maybe the exception of the spacing for the rear doors, couldn't you just line it up with the groove and put it on?

I believe we found our J roller at Lowe's but that was after looking around at a few stores.

When you get yours I think you'll see the depressions in the doors are not definitive. There is room to go up or down in the slope of the indentation. There is at least one person who successfully eyeballed the placement of their BSMs. There is also at least one person who's gotten them on crooked. I preferred the measuring method since they are so expensive and I've never done anything like this before. It's you're truck and your money. Let us know which method you decide upon and how it works out.

"Two questions: any ideas where to find a good roller? Is it like a paint supply? Or should I be able to find it at Lowes or Sears, etc?"

"And maybe this is just stupid newbie talking. I look at all the pictures and meticulous measurements people do. But...don't these just fit in the grooves in the doors? With maybe the exception of the spacing for the rear doors, couldn't you just line it up with the groove and put it on?[/QUOTE]"

Got my roller at Lowe's after some effort in the flooring dept tools and adhesives.

Truckin is right on. The indents are a guide only but you can screw up royal if you peel the tape off and twitch or drop one side down a whisker without knowing it. For me taping the string across the top crease line in the door was the hot ticket. Made it really easy to measure for lining up the tapes which are used for lining up the molding and viola! Perfect alignment.

I'll say this too-without this forum I would NEVER have tried this myself. Thanks to all you digital wizards who included your step by step photo's!!

Thanks, guys. I'll check at Lowes. I'm sure I'll end up measuring, because I don't want to stare at crooked protectors (knowing me, they'll end up crooked anyway, but I'll give it a shot).

There is at least one person who successfully eyeballed the placement of their BSMs.

Make that 2.:D

Has anyone tried the black moldings on a Dark Cherry Pearl? Got pics?

I know a couple have expressed slight displeasure at the straight cut and needing some touch up on the edges of the SportWing Side molding. Has any one tried using just 1 pair of the OEM molding between the depressions? I'm thinking this might look nicer and I could sell the other two? Thoughts?

Btw I'm still in Phoenix for a couple more days.

I originally was going to go with the stock 2 pieces per door. But by accident I ordered some from ebay that were just the single for the middle of the indentions. Im glad I did. I like the look.Plus it sticks out more so its able to do its job as well as look good. As soon as I find a better pic with them on I will post it.There are some others out there. http://i247.photobucket.com/albums/gg140/rickjr007/CIMG0743.jpg

Thanks for your reply. The pic of your Ridge and bike looks great. I do like the look of the single better than the double. Just to be clear were the moldings you bought off ebay the OEM moldings? Or were they the SportWing body side moldings?

Thanks. I belive this is the same item for bid. Make sure to give them your paint code.
eBay Motors: HONDA RIDGELINE Body Side Mouldings Moldings 2005-2009 (item 270249539761 end time Jul-01-08 13:10:05 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/HONDA-RIDGELINE-Body-Side-Mouldings-Moldings-2005-2009_W0QQitemZ270249539761QQihZ017QQcategoryZ33654 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

Thanks. I belive this is the same item for bid. Make sure to give them your paint code.
eBay Motors: HONDA RIDGELINE Body Side Mouldings Moldings 2005-2009 (item 270249539761 end time Jul-01-08 13:10:05 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/HONDA-RIDGELINE-Body-Side-Mouldings-Moldings-2005-2009_W0QQitemZ270249539761QQihZ017QQcategoryZ33654 QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

That is the SportWing side molding, not the OEM molding.

I spoke to a Honda installer/tech. The OEM side moldings are contoured to fit the depressions so they will not lay flat like the SportWing side molding will. So, I can not use the OEM like the Sportwing.

I looked up my ebay purchase and it was the sportwing i got.

Great pics. I love the idea of using a straight-edge ruler or painter's stick (less abrasive) to line up the front and rear BSM. Also, love the idea of using measured cut strips of paper/construction paper to measure the lengths. I used a tailor's measuring tape. I wish I would've avoided measuring over the door handles in the back, like the Honda instructions say to do. It added 2 mm to the rear, which I adjust visually but it still looks slightly higher in the rear. Finding the EXACT point of curvature isn't easy either. Honda should've measured from a more practical/visible edge like the window seam.

Kudos to all the members that have contributed to this thread. Your knowledge and expertise is much appreciated by all. BTW, I found the BSM for $260 plus $25 shipping from Rick Roush Honda in Medina, OH Genuine Honda Accessories - Accessories-Honda.com (http://www.accessories-honda.com)
1-330-725-3999. Local dealer wanted $407 plus 6% Sales tax.:eek:

Good report on your experiences. I'm glad you found the thread helpful. I was really nervous about doing ours 'right' but we did just fine.

here's a dilemma, I got my first 2 dings on the passenger door and want to add these in addition to the nerf bars I just ordered. Unfortunately the small ding is right on the edge of the depression where the protector would go. I'm thinking if I install them them that gap may allow water to get in, how thick its thse boarder foam adhesive? I'm thinking I'll have to get paintless dent removal first. Thoughts?

I wouldn't worry about it. There are gaps in the adhesive tape. This allows water to run in from the top and more importantly out the bottom of the protectors.

After a strong rain storm I notice a little bit of water running out of the side protectors well after the rest of the truck is dry.

I wouldn't worry about it. There are gaps in the adhesive tape. This allows water to run in from the top and more importantly out the bottom of the protectors.

After a strong rain storm I notice a little bit of water running out of the side protectors well after the rest of the truck is dry.

Oh awesome thanks a bunch, saved me a few bucks as the panel should hide the ding anyway.