House Remodeling - Advice

Has anyone on here had to go through an update on the outside of your home? In our case, we have a great, 30-year-old home that really needs a new roof, siding, gutters, etc. and it seems like massive undertaking. We're looking into home equity loans, etc. If you've been down this road, any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!

Has anyone on here had to go through an update on the outside of your home? In our case, we have a great, 30-year-old home that really needs a new roof, siding, gutters, etc. and it seems like massive undertaking. We're looking into home equity loans, etc. If you've been down this road, any advice is much appreciated. Thanks!

Don't know what specific advise you are looking for, but having new vinyl siding and triple pane windows installed cost me over 25gs, but increased the value of the house twicefold. It's worth it. Took a 2nd mortgage to do this. :) Tax deductible you know ;)

If your roof is composition shingle, now is the time to replace it. Those things need heat to seal properly and time in running out this year to get that accomplished. You don't want to take a new roof into winter without proper sealing. You'll spend all winter replacing shingles if you do that.

Get three bids. Pay particular attention to the way that flashing and valleys will be prepared. If your roof only has the original shingles, then it is possible to apply the new roof on top of it. It will save a lot of money if you don't have to remove the old roof.

Get top quality shingles. They cost more but last longer.

Ask the company you are zeroing in on for references. Call those folks. The problem with roofing companies is they hire unskilled people to do the grunt work. If the shingles are not properly applied, the job will not last.

Siding depends on the style of your house. Thirty years is ranch style with board and batten siding, I'm guessing. You can replace board and batten with T-111 plywood for an excellent and durable job. Also, you can reapply battens atop T-111 and it will look original. What ever you do, use stain on your new siding, rather than paint, and it will last forever. Paint is the main reason why siding fails. It traps water and promotes rot.

On a typical, <2000 square foot house, you should be able to accomplish all this for <5K$.

For gutters, get the continuous gutter guy to come out after the rest of the work is done and pay him whatever he wants. It's worth it.

Start out by calling Sears and one, other, local roofing contractor.

Go for the home equity for the money as long as you don't overextend. Easy to get, many offers below prime rate and interest is tax deductable like mortgage interest. You can pay as much or as little principal as you want. Just be careful in budgeting , it can be like a credit card. Keep paying the minimun and you never get out of it until you sell.

I second the home equity line recommendation. Mine runs 6 to 7% and changes based on the prime. Only a negative if the prime rate starts shooting up. At that point, refinancing the mortgage looks pretty sharp, except for the fact that you pay a grand or two for closing costs, and go through all the hassles of a refi. My home equity line was set up in one day by my bank officer with no closing costs, and it was ready to write a check on within a week.
A couple of minor notes on the roofing job - get them to tell you exactly how they are going to protect your bushes in your yard. We recently had our house reroofed and it was a wonderful job - all except for the fact that one of the guys thought protecting the bushes with clear plastic sheeting would be a good idea. You can imagine what the heat buildup did. By the time I got home, several were dead and several others are only just now recovering - it's been a year. They should mount a canvas "slide" to the roof and toss the trash down the slide. Also make sure they drag the yard/driveway with a big magnet at the end of each day, and then check after them. I had a roofing nail destroy a new Michelin tire, and this was in spite of the fact that they were dragging the magnet around.

What we did instead of a line of credit was to refinance at a really good rate and cash out some equity. We were able to get a 10 year term and save a bunch on interest. Don't know your situation but consider this option if you can swing it. Transaction was all done on-line except signing of papers with a notary, no attorneys.;)

Great, great stuff guys. Thanks! Any advice specific to siding to buy or just overall things to look for? Is it best to get a general contractor to keep everything moving along and together, advising us along the way since so much of this is truly a BIG project if we do it all at once?

We went with vinyl but Hardy plank is nice as well if a lot of wood needs replacing. Get several estimates as they vary wildly, and always beware of the cheapest.

I would not leave the old shingles on the roof. If your going to spend 20k or so, then the its worth putting in the extra money.

Great, great stuff guys. Thanks! Any advice specific to siding to buy or just overall things to look for? Is it best to get a general contractor to keep everything moving along and together, advising us along the way since so much of this is truly a BIG project if we do it all at once?

If you can afford it...get the continuos length siding. I've had to adjust to close gaps in my siding several times. :)

Moisture barrier under whichever siding you choose is very important. Ask roofers whether they hand nail or use nail guns to install roofing shingles. My friend the contractor feels the best roofs are hand nailed.
If replacing windows, many of the double hung types will allow both sashes to tilt into the house for cleaning. None of the single hung will do this.
Good luck, we went with credit line to do ours, easy, and only spent as much as we needed.

T Mac, I have done the same things you are going to do to your house several years ago. Since I am pretty handy, I did them myself. Roof first, then deck, then new siding, then remodel kitchen, then bathrooms (X4!) then the rest of the house. I did them one right after another and it took about two years off and on. You're right...it is a big job all at once. Why not treat it like a lot of little jobs? Roof first...get estimates like everyone says and get it done. While thats getting done get estimates on siding, but don't let a crew start on it until the roof's done. Then after the siding is started, get estimates on...you get the picture. You will end up saving money and getting the work done at YOUR pace...not a Contractors. Good luck

I have worked in the building and remodeling industry for years. I am not a builder or remodeler, I owned an alarm company. I did work with a lot of different builders and remodelers. I also got to know many of their employees and got to see their work in progress as we came and went from job sites. As a very active member of the local Builders Association, I strongly believe that builders and remodelers that are active members of Builders Associations tend to be of a higher quality and meet a higher standard of business practices. I personally would only do business with a builder member. I suggest that you visit your local Builders Association office and pick up a membership directory. Ask if they have a "Code of Ethics" that members must sign. Also ask if they have a customer dispute resolution committee. If you have a problem with a member contractor that you hire that can not seem to get resolved to your satisfaction, the association may be able to arbitrate the matter before lawyers get involved. Members hate to be embarrassed in front of other members so going to the association with a complaint is sure to get their attention. Note that the association can only help with member companies and complaints must be handled before lawyers get involved. You can also check with the association ahead of time to see if a contractor member has any complaints on file.

Also, don't assume anything. Verify that you will be getting the materials and quality of installation that you want. Read the contract and ask "what if" questions. Ask what happens if things that should not happen go wrong. What is the contractor’s process for dealing with problems? Ask for and verify that all contractors working on your property have current, valid and sufficient insurance. Ask them to provide you with a "certificate of Insurance" before any work is allowed to start. Again, don't assume that they have it. You should also notify your own insurance carrier ahead of time about what you are planning. If a worker gets seriously injured on your property, you want to make absolutely certain that you are properly protected. Especially, who pays the legal fees if someone gets sued? Have your attorney look at the contracts and advise you about what you should NOT sign for. Some contracts will have clauses that say that if any litigation is brought by any party that you will pay all legal fees regardless of who prevails in the case. That means that you loose no matter what happens. Changes after the contract is written are usually very expensive and rarely are negotiable. Make sure that there is reasonable language about completion time and dates, weather delays, material shortages, who pays for material and when, etc. I would ask for references from recent customers and check them out by calling and visiting their home to talk with the homeowner and inspect the work. The best reference is a direct recommendation from a satisfied customer. The best advice that you can get is which contractors NOT to use.

Don't forget to ask if your contractors are bonded and insured. Ask for proof for your protection.

I'd also like to add, that you make sure all of the appropriate permits and inspections are done, as required by your local authority.. This not only protects YOU, but eliminates any snags with appraisers when selling or refinancing, and eliminates a common reason for an insurance company to NOT pay a large claim (the fire started in a non-permitted area). Best of luck.
Don