Alternator up to the challenge?

Hey folks,

I'm hoping some of you on this forum can weigh in on a debate that my brother and I have been having. He's convinced that my upgraded audio system will tax my alternator and cause it to fail. I was under the impression that my system 1) wasn't that powerful as aftermarket systems go, and 2) the RL has a robust alternator to begin with (compared with the compact sedan he drives).

To review, here's my system:
OEM head unit
Alpine Type R components up front, Polk full range in back, all driven by a 4x50 amp
single 10" JLW3 in subthump box driven by JL 250w
wiring is 4gauge

I also don't push my system. I like to listen at highway-speed with the windows down, but i'm not heard four blocks away.

I went thru 3 alternators on my last vehicle (two stock, and one "upgraded" amperage) with a 4X52 system and a Bazooka sub. :(

The alternator is 130A. You're not even close to taxing it.

The alternator is 130A. You're not even close to taxing it.Don't go by that !!! that is peak amperage and you have to take into account how moch the vehicle itsel uses. As a general rule in car audio Honda alternators aren't robust at all.

The alternator is 130A. You're not even close to taxing it.


At what RPM?

I agree, his system is not taxing the alternator, but 130A sounds a bit generous.

Anyone know if there are any HO alternators available for the Ridgeline yet?

Don't go by that !!! that is peak amperage and you have to take into account how moch the vehicle itsel uses. As a general rule in car audio Honda alternators aren't robust at all.

Of course it's peak. Have you seen an OEM alternator rated any other way? Do you really think that one 4x50 amp and one 250x1 amp are going to tax that alternator?

Of course it's peak. Have you seen an OEM alternator rated any other way? Do you really think that one 4x50 amp and one 250x1 amp are going to tax that alternator?

shovelhd, I know your wealth of knowledge is highly respected on the ROC, I personally have learned a lot from your posts, and will continue to do so I'm sure! However, it sure seems like you have a real problem when someone offers information that differs with your views. Mr. Bigs has a valid point, I agree it doesn't necessarily apply in this situation, but valid none the less. I certainly don't think he was trying to question your inteligence, but your response makes me believe that you feel otherwise. LIGHTEN UP!!
I am certainly not trying to get into a pissing match with you, although I fear you will disagree. Thanks again for all your insight!

:D I'm pushing almost 3000 watts of power. I do have a battery upgrade and a 3 way wiring upgrade. At peak power my headlights almost dim a little bit. I think the factory 130 amp alternator is great for car audio. JMO...:D

Look at the fuses installed at each amp. That will tell you a bit about how much current the amp manufacturer thinks the amp might draw at maximum output. So add up the fuse ratings to get an idea of MAXIMUM current draw.

Unless you are a car audio competitor, it is almost impossible to run amplifiers at 100% output for more than a few milliseconds.

My 4 channel Alpine MRV-F340 uses a 30A fuse. My other Alpine amp uses a 25A fuse (I think). Since one pair of channels powers just tweeters - there is no way that amp will ever draw full current unless there is a fault.

My audio equipment probably draws 10-30A at typical highway driving sound levels. The Honda alternator should be more than enough for me. Your mileage may vary.

OK Folks How about some Math...

a 250 watt amp (lets assume an ok quality amp and thats 70% efficient) would draw at PEAK 30 amps ( Current * Volts = Power)

A 50 Watt amp would Draw at peak 6 amps so a 4x50 would draw A Peak 24 amps

So the System MAX Current Draw would be 54 Amps.

Now realistically during NORMAL operation (Normal Listening Levels, not 2 block away levels) I'm sure it would draw an average of 30-40% of peak, you are looking a steady draw of about 20 amps (~35%).

Now it's Been a LONG time (Back in High School Electronics) since since I've done these formulas, so I may bee off a little, but I think I'm right.

a steady 20 amp draw should not do any harm to the Ridgeline, assuming it is a 130 amp alternator.

Geoff

Of course it's peak. Have you seen an OEM alternator rated any other way? Do you really think that one 4x50 amp and one 250x1 amp are going to tax that alternator?Probably not but you must consider how much the truck itself consumes. I fried 3 alternators in my 99 Accord V6 with 900 watts 75x4 + 600x1. Granted you will never get that wattage listening to music continuously(test tones are used for rating) but they did go and were rated at 130 amps. I have installed custom stereos and alarms for a long time and Honda's are the worst with alternators. I finally settled wit a custom alternator from MECHMAN (http://www.mechman.com) which has been holding.

Compare Max Amps to Max Amps, OR RMS to RMS.
Comparing 20A RMS to 130A Peak doesn't work well.

OK Folks How about some Math...

a 250 watt amp (lets assume an ok quality amp and thats 70% efficient) would draw at PEAK 30 amps ( Current * Volts = Power)

A 50 Watt amp would Draw at peak 6 amps so a 4x50 would draw A Peak 24 amps

So the System MAX Current Draw would be 54 Amps.

Now realistically during NORMAL operation (Normal Listening Levels, not 2 block away levels) I'm sure it would draw an average of 30-40% of peak, you are looking a steady draw of about 20 amps (~35%).

Now it's Been a LONG time (Back in High School Electronics) since since I've done these formulas, so I may bee off a little, but I think I'm right.

a steady 20 amp draw should not do any harm to the Ridgeline, assuming it is a 130 amp alternator.

Geoff

I know you're installer, Bigs, and I respect you for that. No harm was intended. I simply disagreed with the tone of your response. What you say is true but it does not apply to the OP at all.

The Ridgeline alternator is made by Nippondenso. They are not easily modified as you can't get the parts to modify them with. If I were going to put a competition system into a Ridgeline, I would either retrofit a modified Delco with a milled or sleeved Honda pulley, or I'd make a bracket to run a second Nippondenso wired in parallel with the original. And I'd fill the trunk with batteries. :)

BTW I thought your '99 Civic alternator was 90A stock. I didn't know Honda made them that big back then for the Civic.

I know you're installer, Bigs, and I respect you for that. No harm was intended. I simply disagreed with the tone of your response. What you say is true but it does not apply to the OP at all.

The Ridgeline alternator is made by Nippondenso. They are not easily modified as you can't get the parts to modify them with. If I were going to put a competition system into a Ridgeline, I would either retrofit a modified Delco with a milled or sleeved Honda pulley, or I'd make a bracket to run a second Nippondenso wired in parallel with the original. And I'd fill the trunk with batteries. :)

BTW I thought your '99 Civic alternator was 90A stock. I didn't know Honda made them that big back then for the Civic.Sorry if I came off harsh it wasn't my intention. It is an Accord V6 that used the same Nippon Denso alternator not a Civic. What people aren't taking into account is voltage drop as the vehicle warms up and more accessories are used the cars voltage drops from 14.4 to around 13 or slightly less which increases current.

You never know about these things so here is a little more for the debate:

2006 Ridgeline bought brand new and shipped from Canada and picked up with 1.5 miles on it. Installed 2 JL Audio 10w2v2's under back seat and replaced all door speakers as well. have 3 JL Audio amps 500/1 and 450/4; and capacitors. Honda OEM Nav HU. I do push mine and have had no issues with my system or Ridge. With that said it is always a crap shoot as things do fail.