Taking Out The BIG BOX

Do I have timing or what. I wait for the hottest week of the year so far to remove the rear boom box speaker and amp enclosure from my Ridgeline.:eek: :confused:

I started around 7:00 a.m. this morning (Sunday) and according to my dash temp gauge, it's already nearing 100 degrees.

Oh well, I can stand to sweat off more than a few pounds.

So far it's been pretty straightforward. I will add pics later tonight, but I had to come in to cool off, so here's what I've got so far.

Three T-2 15 Inch subwoofers. I removed the outer decorative ring (8 allenhead wood screws) then removed four more of the same screws holding the speaker in place underneath the decorative ring. Then I just lifted them out. RIGHT:rolleyes: These speakers are massive. 15 inch diameter with a 10 inch depth and they weigh......nearly 54 pounds each!!!!!!!!! All I had to get a grip on them with was a quarter inch high lip that was flush with surface of the box. I was finally able to work a very, very small screwdriver between the lip and the box surface and lift the speaker up enough to get it out. This also had to be done with me half bent over in the door, so I had virtually no leverage. I couldn't stand up straight until I had the speaker all the way out and even then, I couldn't just pull it out because I had to remove and mark the speaker wires. The two outer speakers were bad enough, but the inner one was the worst. I took me about an hour to remove all three speakers, bag and mark the screws and move them into my bedroom until I can find a safer place.

(Needless to say, my wife is not exactly happy with my storage location, but she's not complaining too much because I'll be putting the rear seat back in after everything is out.)

After removing the speakers, I was able to see how the box was made and took a number of pics (which again, will be posted later) and found for bolts going through the floor to the floor of the Ridgeline. I believe and hope they are going into some already existing floor holes that are used for installing the seats.

The four, 5 inch 150 watt speaker were next and they were pretty simple. I can see part of the back wall of the cab and it looks like they put sound deadener around the wall. The speaker box is in two pieces, a lower section for the subwoofers and their amp, and an upper piece for the four 5 inch speakers and their amp. I can see where it looks like they've mounted the upper box by drilling screws into the rear cap wall, but I can't see where or how they go into the cab wall. Something to wait for I guess.

I next began tackling the removal of the T3001 Subwoofer amp and the T15004 door speaker amps.

The amps have two allen head bolts that hold on the access cover. I removed the two of the lower subwoofer amp, disconnected the spearker wires, boost cable, radio connection and radio power wire. I then removed the ground and power cables and they're huge, about a big around as my index finger. I cut the excess wiring off the red power cable, then wrapped it in electrical tape so I don't short anything out. The amp itself was sitting snugly in a pocket on the lower box and after a few moments, I just popped it out. The T3001 is 33 inches wide, about 12 inches across and about an inch and a half thick and weighs nearly 34 pounds. The T15004 is the same dimensions.

I then removed the two allen bolts holding the cover to the T15004. This is where I've had to stop and come inside to cool down. After writing all this, I ready to go back outside and tackle the other amp.

According to my calculations, I've removed nearly 200 pounds of electronics alone, with more to go. I'll be gaining a lot of that weight back with the underseat spearer and amp enclosure I'll be putting in, and there's the weight of the seat itself, so I don't think this will be changing my current gas mileage at all.

Sorry for the long post, but it's a nice way to kill time while cooling down.

More to come, including pictures, I promise, later today.

To everyone at the Ohio meet, I hope you're having a great time. Maybe next year.

I forgot to mention that my lovely wife, Caryn, is helping me during this....and not just nagging me about more car parts in the bedroom.

Do I have timing or what. I wait for the hottest week of the year so far to remove the rear boom box speaker and amp enclosure from my Ridgeline.

Good luck man! I wish it was cooler for you two! If you need a hand, just let me know! :cool:

Good luck man! I wish it was cooler for you two! If you need a hand, just let me know! :cool:

Thanks....

All the electronics and the upper portion are out. I've just got the bottom box left and it's being a bear. I've got it loose, but there's not a lot of wiggle room.

I'm going to stop for now and attack it again after my son gets home later today. Between the two of us, we'll figure out something.

The original installer said they had to remove both front seats, the center console and one rear door. I'm thinking maybe remove the front passenger seat (fewer electronics to mess with, and I'll look into what it takes to remove the center console. That should get me enough room to twist and turn this thing out the rear door, hopefull without removing it as well.

Needless to say, I don't think I'll be getting the back seat in today. PICS TO FOLLOW

Pics as promised....

1) One of the T2's with the speaker ring removed. You can see I only had about a quarter inch of gripping surface.

2) The upper boxl with the passenger side 5 inch speakers removed. I've highlighted one of the upper box mounting screws.

3) Drivers side upper box

4) After a few false starts, I finally got the first subwoofer out.

5) As you can see, these mothers are heavy.:eek:

1,2) Passenger side boom box, looking into the box after the subwoofer is removed. You can see the two bolts in the bottom of the box, they do go to existing threaded holes in the floor.

(3,4) two down and one to go...also the subwoofer amp access panel removed and the amp is lifted up from its mounting position

5) I was impressed and amazed at the size of the power and ground cables.:eek:

1) Third subwoofer is gone and the subwoofer amp is removed.

2) It's not exactly lightweight either

3) Getting ready to unwire the T15004

4) That's a lot of speaker wire. Three speakers for each front door, plus fouir more speakers for the rear.

Speaker wires capped and marked, I hope correctly. :o :confused:

1) I taped off both power cords to prevent shorting out the battery.

2,3) After removing the 10 screws mounting the upper box assembly, it came right out, no problem.

4,5) The lower box is unbolted from the floor and ready to be removed....except it doesn't want to pop right out. I've got clearance issues between the center console and rear window motor. I may have to remove the center conolse, as it presents the bigger problem. I also may remove the front passenger seat to help rotate the box around and move it out of the truck intact.

Last pics for now....

I was able to lift the box up about 18 Inches to clear some mounting brackets (wood pieces) used to help mount the upper box and T15004 amp. The bad news is that when it was installed, they did chop up the carper, so it looks like a run to the dealer or an upholstery shop, which ever is cheaper. I also removed the two plastic covers that go between the doors and rear cab wall. It appears the install modified the stock pieces, so they'll have to be redone or purchased new.

1) You can see how close the center console is to the box and because of the angle, I think I'll have to remove it or it may get busted up.

2,3) Much to my wifes displeasure, the speakers and amps are now residing in our bedroom. No time frame for removal, but I don't want to leave them there long. She says she doesn't feel sexy in a garqge and when they're car parts in the bedroom, then it becomes the garage for her. I'll probably move them to my daughters room (shes away at college and not exepcted back soon) for a while.

That's it for now. :D ;)

Nice job Rusty! And from what I can tell by the pictures, not one single drop of beer was spilled. Very well done! :)

Got the boom box structure out this morning, with the help of my future son-in-law, daughter's boy friend or whatever the hell he's calling himself. It came out fairly simple, I didn't have to remove the door, center console or front seats. I did remove the drivers side rear door panel, arm rest and hand holder. After that it was pretty straightforward. Now I can use some help. When the installers built the box, they removed the large cross piece that fits on floor under the carper, where the seat and seat belt buckles are bolted. I've tried the search engine, but can't find any pics of the bracket without the carper around it. The service manual doesn't deal with this bracket removal or install either. If anyone knows where I can get a picture of this, that would be a big help. Tempe Honda says the bracket is spot welded in place, but I believe it's also bolted down in at least four to six areas. I can't continue with the stock rear seat install until I can figure out exactly how and where this bracket is installed, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Let the search masters begin their magic.

I can't continue with the stock rear seat install until I can figure out exactly how and where this bracket is installed, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bernardi Honda Parts (http://www.bernardiparts.com/category.aspx?categoryID=52) has the breakdown:
http://www.bernardiparts.com/BVModules/CategoryTemplates/SearchOptions/ImageStreamer.aspx

And... here is what my 06-07 service manual has... :cool:

I feel bad, and sick, that I didn't get a chance to see that setup last November at the Arizona mini-meet in Scottsdale. Now, it is gone...

So, Rusty, you going to GIVE that stuff away or sell it online for a nice chunk of change? Oh, and don't forget to let your insurance know. Once THEY know you have about $5,000 LESS of expensive equipment in there they MIGHT give you a break.

As for your wife... why not say you've always thought a greased up lady in a mechanics jump suit looked sexy? Role with it a bit...

When the installers built the box, they removed the large cross piece that fits on floor under the carper, where the seat and seat belt buckles are bolted. I've tried the search engine, but can't find any pics of the bracket without the carper around it. The service manual doesn't deal with this bracket removal or install either. If anyone knows where I can get a picture of this, that would be a big help. Tempe Honda says the bracket is spot welded in place, but I believe it's also bolted down in at least four to six areas. I can't continue with the stock rear seat install until I can figure out exactly how and where this bracket is installed, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

What you need is called CROSSMEMBER B, MIDDLE FLOOR, Part # for the Crossmember is 65720-SJC-A00ZZ, Bernardi shows cost is $127.42. Good/Bad news - this is welded to the Floor Panel before panel is set to the frame plus has 4 bolts on each end. So you could get in and replace it; it sets pretty well in one position only, plus if you look at the rear flanges where the bolts go, there is an extra set of holes used for positioning at the plant that will help to align it. I'd guess the best way to replicate the factory welding would be to mark the flanges & drill through where each spotweld on the floor is, and MIG them all. Without checking, I'd guess at least 25+ welds need to be done.

What you need is called CROSSMEMBER B, MIDDLE FLOOR, Part # for the Crossmember is 65720-SJC-A00ZZ, Bernardi shows cost is $127.42. Good/Bad news - this is welded to the Floor Panel before panel is set to the frame plus has 4 bolts on each end. So you could get in and replace it; it sets pretty well in one position only, plus if you look at the rear flanges where the bolts go, there is an extra set of holes used for positioning at the plant that will help to align it. I'd guess the best way to replicate the factory welding would be to mark the flanges & drill through where each spotweld on the floor is, and MIG them all. Without checking, I'd guess at least 25+ welds need to be done.

I have the crossmember (unfortunately, they stored it wrapped in the seats, so it's indented in the leather....hopefully it will come out after a while) and have located the four bolt holes on each end, but welding it in is not on the agenda. Especially since I would have to remove the gas tank, which is right underneath the rear seat. What I plan on doing is bolting in the crossmember, then use 5/16" X 3/4" lag screws, about 10 of them, to secure the crossmember to the floor. I'll also be using a very small amount of JB Weld to run along the edge. The stock rear seat installation is only a temporary fix and I won't be using the crossmember, or at least all of it, when I complete the transformation to rear bucket seats.

I have one other bracket made of very thick steel, it's angled and has some threads welded into it and I can't find where that goes. I havent' seen it in any of the pictures on this forum. I plan on getting together with VIMH later this week and will check out his truck to see if I can find it.

On problem I'm having is when the stereo guys installed their custom box, they dynamatted the entire rear wall and floor, up to where the seat legs insert into their brackets, so I will have to search for mounting holes for all the seatbelts.

I have removed the dynamatt that covered the bolt holes and weld points for the crossmember, and have discovered several holes where the welds were ground down, so I'll have to remember to add some silicone sealer around the entire crossmember to ensure it doesn't let any moisture in.

One interesting note....with the rear sound system gone, the radio will not come one. One of my stereo guys thinks the radio may be tied into the the power cables for the amps and he did find a couple of non-Honda relays installed in the area of the rear drivers door. I'll have to make sure the seat belt doesn't interfere with them or find another mounting location.

Here's a question hopefully someone can answer. How much space is between the rear seat back and the back cab wall. Does it taper down, meaning it's narrower at the top and gains more space nearer the floor. I'm looking for about 2 3/4" of space so I can mount my T15004 on the back wall.

The size of the amp is 2.6 X 12.8 X 33 (inches).

What I plan on doing is bolting in the crossmember, then use 5/16" X 3/4" lag screws, about 10 of them, to secure the crossmember to the floor. I'll also be using a very small amount of JB Weld to run along the edge. The stock rear seat installation is only a temporary fix and I won't be using the crossmember, or at least all of it, when I complete the transformation to rear bucket seats.

If I remember correctly, the estimate is that 1 bolt = 2 spot welds. You'll want this well-fastened for both holding the seat as well as the lower seat belt mounts. This is considered a critical area for testing - I've helped cut a car in half (just behind the centre pillar) so that this same crossmember could be both crash- and pull-tested. Again, however you fasten it, if you decide to remove the crossmember to add your bucket seat in, you'll have to deal with the holes from your bolts, also with painting/protecting the exposed bolts & cut holes underneath.

I have one other bracket made of very thick steel, it's angled and has some threads welded into it and I can't find where that goes. I havent' seen it in any of the pictures on this forum. I plan on getting together with VIMH later this week and will check out his truck to see if I can find it.

If you post a pic, I may be able to tell you where it goes...

On problem I'm having is when the stereo guys installed their custom box, they dynamatted the entire rear wall and floor, up to where the seat legs insert into their brackets, so I will have to search for mounting holes for all the seatbelts.

I have removed the dynamatt that covered the bolt holes and weld points for the crossmember, and have discovered several holes where the welds were ground down, so I'll have to remember to add some silicone sealer around the entire crossmember to ensure it doesn't let any moisture in.


Pics of the location would be interesting; may have some suggestion if I could see the actual 'damage done'... Most of the lower seatbelt mounts are on the Crossmember except the middle seat tensioner, which looks to be on the left side Cabin Panel gusset. (Pic borrowed from Shovlhd's install thread)

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/attachments/mobile-electronics/18537d1171762256-shovelhd-media-nav-upgrade-d61000.jpg

Sorry not sure about the electrical issues; I think the depth shouldn't be a problem at the base of the back wall, but you may have a bigger issue with width. You may find some useful info in some of the Sub-box threads.

(Pic borrowed from Shovlhd's install thread)
You may find some useful info in some of the Sub-box threads.

Good call! I seem to remember a lot of back seat removed type pictures in the mobile electronics section! :cool:

As you can see there's plenty of depth for an amp that size. Both of my amps are about the same depth. The issue will be width.