Bakflip Bed Cover - A Few Comments

There has been a long-winded discussion on the Bakflip Bed Cover here. I just installed mine today and have a few insights for those who are considering this. I wanted to start a new Thread because I'm merely discussing the G2 version. Here are some photos, too -- showing what I'm describing.

a) The install of their new G2 version is very straightforward.
The posted details for installing (elsewhere) are very thorough but apply mostly to the G1. A lot of the nagging issues of the G1 install (not that there were many) are eliminated.

b) There is no drilling required of the Aluminum Plates near the cab. There's no need to crawl under the bed cover to mark holes, etc. This step has been resolved by them having pre-drilled four large holes that receive studs which are secured by four turn knobs below the cover. There are no nuts involved.

c) The advantage of this new design is it allows you to make adjustments of the Cover tighter to the cab wall, if needed later. And you can remove it completely very easily. So if you detect water leakage from rain you can loosen these, bump the cover forward a bit, and re-tighten. Nice idea!

d) The concept (that I've seen discussed elsewhere) that this cover does not rob you of any space in the Bed is a little misleading. The shelf section nearest the cab remains in place while in use with the sections folded forward. Therefore, you "lose" about 12" up against the cab wall with the tilted sections still in place. The last shelf area does not fold. Of course, the region below is all open to the cab wall, but you are blocked from sitting a tall standing object flush up against the cab wall.

This may sound more severe than other types of Bed Cover installs -- but it really isn't. This "loss" is only temporary because you can remove those 4 knobs, remove the cover in a folded state, and stow it inside the rear seat area of the cab if you had to, say, carry home a refrigerator. I'm not sure if other style bed cover systems that require the installation of a winding box, etc. is this convenient.

e) Some people have concluded that the new Rod Support system is less convenient than the compression cylinders used on the G1. Some accuse this new setup of rattling. Mine does not do so. You can see that the Rods are equipped with rubber tips. If anything, these could stand to be a bit longer by about 1 more inch to clear the sliding track that it pops into. You then tighten the small Knob shown in the pictures. I found this to be a very snug and easy solution. You can easily adjust how much pressure you want to apply to stiffen the folded sections against the rear window area.

f) Note that there are two sets of latches on this G2 -- I'm not sure if they both existed before on the G1. That means you can fold the cover open part-way while still keeping the final sections locked to the Rails. Notice the small D Rings in the one photo -- nearest the cab wall. These are there for you to provide your own Bungee Cords to keep the folded sections from flopping up and down when you hit heavy bumps. Nice touch!

g) Notice that the 4 Knobs below the shelf near the cab wall all have rubber washers, as well as matching steel washers, as well as locking washers -- all below the shelf. Above the shelf you can see the two dark large-size "disks" near the D-Rings -- these are the tops of the Studs that the Locking Knobs screw into. These have rubber washers, as well. You do not need to really crank down hard on these Knobs -- just a snug tightening is enough. Good idea!

h) There are, in fact, two small screws that have to be installed. So, technically, we can't say this is a truly "drill-free" installation. In this case, a power screwdriver / drill does help. But be careful of too much torque. These screws are at the end of each of the Rails, nearest the Tailgate. They add extra support to the Rails and make them more rigid. These are Self-Tapping -- you do not want to drill pilot holes for these. Unless you are screwing them in by hand. They do penetrate through the sides of the Bed Liner, creating about a 1/8" to 3/16" hole. Heads are painted black, for a nice touch.

It should rain tomorrow. I'll know if the cover is really water-resistant since I did not install my drain tubes through the bed wall.

Complaints? NOT A LOT!!
I did not experience any of the shoddy fabrication that some have complained about in very early postings. Yes, there are some residual chalk markings (probably white Stabilo pencil marks -- easily removable). Yes, there were minor areas of glue that seeped out from under the aluminum framing around one section of the folding cover (I trimmed them off carefully with a knife). Yes, the Instructions are terrible -- bad photos, etc. They need a downloadable PDF at their website (printing out the webpage is frustrating). And, yes, I will take a small file to some of the exposed metal edges to save my knuckles, later. Yes, there were a few nicks in the aluminum framing on the Rails and around the folding sections (a little touch-up paint will cure that).

One small issue seems to be correcting itself as the cover sections settle-in from exposure to sun, etc. -- the Rear Latches did not seem to want to catch on their own, at first. The sweet spot to push down a bit and force the issue is directly above them -- about 5 inches from the Tail Gate. Yes, you can pull down on the cable underneath on either side -- and it releases both catches at the same time (no need to walk back and forth).

No, you cannot close the Tailgate while the sections are all laying flat. This is by design, so the rear-most rubber weather-stripping can rest directly on top of the Tail Gate. Just lift that last flap a tiny bit, close the Gate, set the Latches on the Cover Section (I just noticed that they now seem to be latching just fine after they had time to settle into place).

The one photo here shows that the Trunk Lid does, unfortunately, hit the side Rails where the bump-out on the Trunk Lid occurs. If you want to judge how restricted this is, simply lift your lid until that area is in line with the first hard curve line of the side wall. That's about the height limit you will have. Hopefully, this one tip was worth you wading through this lengthy report!

Another way to see what the restricted lift height is? Raise the Trunk Lid about 22-1/4" as measured from the inside top edge of its lock well indentation (at the top of the Trunk "tub", even with the bed floor) to the very bottom front center edge of the Lid. That's about the access you'll have. I do not see a way to notch anything to make it open all the way because that would cut into the Support Rods in their resting position. Or you'd have to notch the Trunk Lid -- I'm not dumb enough to do that!!

In case you are wondering, Bakflip claims this cover does work with all Bed Extenders. I bought one of those $39 ones at Pep Boys yesterday, but have not installed it.

Biggest problem? Finding that T50 Torx fitting so I could remove the larger screw bolts in the bed. For what it's worth, Sears carries them as a set in their Automotive Dept. (a great $16 sale is on right now that includes a wide selection, if you need them). Home Depot -- nope! Lowes -- nope! Advanced Auto and Pep Boys -- did not have them when I asked. Just my luck -- a 20 minute job took almost all day.

I hope I did not bore you guys and gals with yet another bed install tale. But I thought there were several key points about the G2 that have not been clearly explained. Had I not wasted nearly a day finding the T50 Torx Socket, I think this install would have taken maybe 20 minutes. I cannot imagine an easier installation on a removable, and very solid, bed cover.

I purchased my BAKflip from an eBay Reseller, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=014&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=330258606485&rd=1
which included Free Shipping and a Cargo Bar that was much nicer than I expected -- Chrome with heavy-duty rubber feet on both ends, and a screw adjustment of about 3 inches. The sections telescope outwards with a snap-button interlock.

Excellent write up, excellent photos. I installed my G2 last week and love it. Same issue with the end not wanting to catch at first but now it snaps nicely every time. I got the torx 50 fitting at Sears for $5 and returned the set since I do not need all the others.

The install took less than 30 minutes and I have had a few rain drops inside at most.

I have the pep-boys extender and it also works and fits just fine. The only thing you need to remember is that with the extender and cover trunk access is restricted until you move everything out of the way.

Thanks. At least somebody noticed. I'm hoping it will clear up some issues that seem to be confusing people looking into this BAKflip. Why it gets such disparaging remarks is beyond my understanding.

20-minute install.
Easy operation.
Solidly built.
Very convenient use and removal.
Stores easily.
Nearly waterproof.
Can be handled by one person.
Very clean-looking -- perhaps, not as slick as a diamond-plate single-sheet top (but nowhere near the restricted-use).

Flip-Tops are great. But in my opinion, impractical if you ever need to haul upright bulky items.

Soft-Tops are great. But in my opinion, impractical for many reasons. Not the least of which has to be they are most prone to vandalism or unimpeded entry.

A Retractable Top (cloth or metal) would be ideal if it did not entail a non-removable winding box near the cab. The only thing I can imagine would be more ideal would be a two-part contraption that would be concealable inside the Side Wall. Then the sections would electrically slide outward to meet in the middle and then lock together. Flip the tailgate up and add a lock -- then you'd have the best of all worlds. No intrusion into the bed. No restriction of the Trunk Lid. And theft-resistant.

I've had my G2 bakflip for a couple months now. I meant to do a writeup but never got around to it. Guy, you've made an excellent write up.

It's easy to flip back each section, heck it's easy to take off if you need to and light enough I can carry the whole thing. It looks good on the truck and with a tailgate lock (Chris' $10 version is still on my to do list) can be made reasonably secure.

A lot of companies are now claiming tonneau covers can save you gas. That's pure marketing B.S. Maybe it goes up 1 or 2 mpg, maybe it goes down 1 or 2 mpg. Personally, I haven't seen much of a difference either way.

I do have some very slight water leakage at times around the rails. It only happens with a heavy rain or hosing and the amount of water that gets in can be measured in drops. Anything that's been in the bed has always stayed dry. I suspect I could caulk around the rails and eliminate the water, but it's so little it isn't worth the hassle to me.

I really like my Bakflip and I'm glad I got it. I'd buy it again and I recommend it.

I've had my G2 bakflip for a couple months now. I meant to do a writeup but never got around to it. Guy, you've made an excellent write up.

It's easy to flip back each section, heck it's easy to take off if you need to and light enough I can carry the whole thing. It looks good on the truck and with a tailgate lock (Chris' $10 version is still on my to do list) can be made reasonably secure.

A lot of companies are now claiming tonneau covers can save you gas. That's pure marketing B.S. Maybe it goes up 1 or 2 mpg, maybe it goes down 1 or 2 mpg. Personally, I haven't seen much of a difference either way.

I do have some very slight water leakage at times around the rails. It only happens with a heavy rain or hosing and the amount of water that gets in can be measured in drops. Anything that's been in the bed has always stayed dry. I suspect I could caulk around the rails and eliminate the water, but it's so little it isn't worth the hassle to me.

I really like my Bakflip and I'm glad I got it. I'd buy it again and I recommend it.

Good comment's here about the BakFlip. I installed mine 2 weeks ago and can attest to the easy install. I think it looks great and the function works great for me. I like the lite weight of the cover. On the fly you can store it with the back seats up, if you need the full bed for hauling.

Nice write-up Guy. I've had the G2 for about a year with no issues and my installation was exactly as you experienced. I also had two G1 covers that had failure issues (leaking and separating at the rubber hinges between sections) and were replaced by Bakflip without hesitation. I've never complained about this company's product just because their customer service with me was so great. I really liked this cover and was happy to get the replacements--they got it right with the G2.

[/COLOR]I would recomend installing the drain tubes. I see water flow thru the drain tubes after a heavy rain. In the instruction pamphlet it says to "Attach drain hoses. Then run them down the side wall, through the tie-down and drape them over the plug on the floor as shown." Not through the bed wall.

No, you cannot close the Tailgate while the sections are all laying flat. This is by design, so the rear-most rubber weather-stripping can rest directly on top of the Tail Gate. Just lift that last flap a tiny bit, close the Gate, set the Latches on the Cover Section

I don't know where you get the idea that you "cannot close the Tailgate while the sections are laying flat." You can..Maybe it would be best not to, But I have been doing it for several months with no problem, and no harm to the rubber seal.

In case you are wondering, Bakflip claims this cover does work with all Bed Extenders. I bought one of those $39 ones at Pep Boys yesterday, but have not installed it.

I have the Honda bed extender. I have had it in the front and rear positions of the bed...No problem.


All in all i think you did a nice write up about the bakFlip. I have had one on my Ridgeline for several months and I am pleased with it.

I have the G2 version as well.
After 4 mos I have an overall postive opinion of it.

I only have 2 gripes about it.
The panels seem to fade in the sun. I use the back-to-black Mothers product on it to restore the look. I just think it fades rather quickly.

The other problem is from fully opening it and closing it, its chipping the paint off the top of the 4 anchor "bolt heads' of the cover. Thats annoying me the most because I'm going to have to fix that or it will likely rust.

I have the G2 version as well.
After 4 mos I have an overall postive opinion of it.

I only have 2 gripes about it.
The panels seem to fade in the sun. I use the back-to-black Mothers product on it to restore the look. I just think it fades rather quickly.

The other problem is from fully opening it and closing it, its chipping the paint off the top of the 4 anchor "bolt heads' of the cover. Thats annoying me the most because I'm going to have to fix that or it will likely rust.

Do you mean the four that screw into the Knobs, on the shelf section nearest the cab wall?

RRider...
The idea of not being able to close the tailgate with the last section closed came from other write-ups here that complain about it. I think it can be "fixed" by simply lifting up on the very rear end of the Rails before you insert the Self-Tapping Screws. Or by slightly lifting up on the Rails at the back end while you are tightening the Side Bolts.

In essence, this would raise the position of the last section slightly -- giving the tailgate maybe 1/4" more clearance under that last rubber weatherstrip that lays on top of the tailgate. This might help the rear catches click in place, too.

I can force mine, but decided not to since I can just lift that section slightly. My last section fits rather snug to the top of the Tailgate on my installation. And it's locking those catches on its own now, just fine.

What I'm a little surprised at is that Honda does not include a tailgate lock on such an expensive vehicle. This really makes no sense to me. On my RTX there is no Compass, no Temperature Readout, and no Lighted Radio Readout. That's just silly. Nor is there a fitting to plug in an MP3 player, or insert a third-party gizmo like a portable Sirius radio -- so, now, I have to think about replacing that radio. Tweeter told me today there are no available hookups for the Accord or Ridgeline that work with the Sirius Sportster 5 unit. The factory nor Sirius have made them available, yet. Ridiculous!

Guy, I didn't mean to come across sounding like an A hole. Like I said, all in all you did a nice write up on the BakFlip. I made a few comments to yours, and I would highly recommend installing the drain tubes.

My BakFlip fits very snug too, but to open the cover you have to open the tailgate. I usually swing open the tailgate from the side. It closes just fine with the cover latched. I have made the statement in another thread that my BakFlip is about as water tight as any cover can be on a Ridgeline.

About the Tailgate lock...You just missed out on the Pop & Lock group buy. Several of us have installed this manual lock, while many others have installed the Dynolock electric lock, or ChrisM's version of electric lock.

BTW, I bought my BakFlip from the same dealer on Eay. At the time he had a Buy it Now price or best offer. He accepted my low ball offer..If I tell what I paid, my post will probably get deleted.

Do you mean the four that screw into the Knobs, on the shelf section nearest the cab wall?

Yeah, those are the ones I cant figure out whats happening but the paint is chipping off. Maybe when I loaded up with mulch, the pressure of the panels rubbing chipped it off?

Just to chime in on the tailgate issue. My G2 cover is snug but I also can open and close the tailgate with no problem without having to open the bakflip panel.

Like Guy said in his original post - at first I had trouble getting the last panel to lock on the rails (and some issues closing the tailgate once I had done so) but it seems that a little "breaking in" period of a couple days solved that problem.

I wanted to respond to the owners of the G2 about the shortcomings of the G1. I have owned one now for over a year and a half and it continues to disappoint. The problems that I have had are the following:
1)the aluminum frames for the back two panels (probably because theyare used the most) have become unfastened to the panel allowing the panels to completely come appart. I have attempted to reglue and use pop rivits to hold together.
2)the cables that open the latches rub on the sharp edge of the aluminum channel inthe middle of the panels. In the last panel it has frayed the cable so bad that I chose to replace. I have added some plastic rub rails to the inside to try and slow down the failure in the future.
3) The top leaks very badly on all places where aluminum frame meets the panels. I suspect that the seal between the aluminum frame and the panel has degraded over time allowing water to seep through. These will probably also come loose in the future requiring new glue and pop rivits like the back two panels did.
4) all panels are now sagging slightly in the middle. I have not loaded anything on top so this must be due to time and weather.
5) two latches have broken loose from the underside of the panels actually breaking the plastic panel. I simply removed these and have no fix at this point.
6) all rubber seals along the edges have come loose. I received a replacement from the company and they also came loose. I suspect this is due to the folding back on itself. The rubber seal cannot compress sufficiently so it pulls loose over time.
Needless to say I am disappointed with this product and feel like I was robbed. I hope the G2 holds up better.

Needless to say I am disappointed with this product and feel like I was robbed.
I assume you haven't complained to Bakflip, because they have been replacing the G1 with the new G2.

Thanks Guy for the writeup...

I just ordered the G2 from Realtruck and look forward to getting it installed.

Cheers,
Allen

Yes, I can't speak as to the longevity of this unit. Time will tell if the G2 holds up better than the G1.

The removability feature is a real selling point, for me.

The rear-most panel now latches perfectly easily by simply letting it drop from a height of, oh, 5" or so. It snaps shut as one would expect.

I did squeeze in on the Pop n' Lock Group Buy because there was one left in stock -- yeeha!! That was a good price. I decided a mechanical lock at a lot lower cost was best for me. I only need to lock it now and then to deter prying eyes. Nothing may ever stop a determined thief.

Next? I gotta decide if I want to match the color of the Sportwing Body Side Moldings to my wheels or the truck...

The G1 had a series of problems and the G2 is serious improvement. Bakflip has done what I consider the "right thing" when it comes to addressing the design/quality problems of the G1.

A determined thief can defeat the bakflip, theres not a lot you can do about that. But sometimes you don't need to be the most secure vehicle on the lot - just the least-easy to hit by the lazy theives.

I picked up a Pop n Lock during the group buy and don't typically leave much in the bed of value. However, I do keep my golf clubs and $700 electric Speed cart in the trunk and wanted a way to slow down access to the trunk and feel the pop n lock will do that.

The bed cover is just nice if I need to throw an extra 3 sets of golf clubs in the back when truckpooling to a different course with three buddies. This way I won't have to bungie them down or worry if it is raining, etc...

I am just hoping to be able to swing the door open and closed with the cover on...:eek:

Cheers,
Allen

Bakflip has done what I consider the "right thing" when it comes to addressing the design/quality problems of the G1.


I'm not sure what you mean by the "right thing" but if you are inferring that they took care of the early adopters (I being one of them)...they did not do squat for me. I gave them a few calls and got nothing. I ended up spending the money and went with the FMJ...I couldn't be happier. I would never recommend a BakFlip to anyone...no matter what generation. :mad:

There are several threads out there (not necessarily on this site) about how terrible the G1 was and at the end of the day, it was reported that they were sent replacements. Guess I made a bad assumption that they were doing so in all cases. I guess you had to really lean on them to get a replacement? Thats unfortunate, maybe I'll try to dig up those threads I saw because when I decided to go with the bakflip, I did a lot of reading up on it.

For the price, I think the G2 Bakflip is a good option. But I can understand getting the short end on the G1 would be a souring experience.

All I can do is speak to my own experience. I really think that the folks at BakFlip released a product that was not ready for the retail market. They really should have issued a recall and replaced all of the G1's with the "new and improved" G2. Even after I complained to them, they did not offer one suggestion to my problem. :mad:

I can certainly understand those feelings. I would be upset FOREVER, too! It would take a lot of effort on a company's part to make me feel differently.

And if the G2 starts to come apart, I'll be right back here reporting that failure.

But, for now, I'm quite satisfied. It still looks good. I have no water penetration in the bed, yet -- and no drain tubes installed. That may change. Also, this was the very first day we've had rain in months, but I just checked it with a flashlight -- no water. I'm really impressed.

If there was a completely removable option that met all my criteria, I would have considered it. But there wasn't. I'm taking things on faith that the G2 has turned the corner on this unit.

My first PT Cruiser (2001) blew an engine at 33,000 miles. Chrysler would only put in a short block, and would not extend the Warranty. I eventually traded it in -- for a 2004 PT Cruiser -- because I simply loved the design. And I had not a single problem. Except then I fell in lust with a Ridgeline because of a damn pop-up ad on the computer one early Saturday morning.

This doesn't speak to your disdain for BAKflip, of course. But some of us must be luckier than others because I don't see a lot of G2 owners -- even those who were converted over from the G1 -- complaining about ongoing problems such as the ones you experienced. We may all be proven foolish within a year. I've made worse mistakes... like that '78 Mustang I bought! What a crappy car!

I installed my BakFlip this afternoon. Took me about 35 minutes from the time I started opening the box until I was totally done. There was probably about 5 minutes worth of scratching my head here and there as I figured it out, but all in all it was almost too easy to install.

A couple of things:

-I think I wasn't able to get the cover all the way up to the cab far enough to keep it from letting some water in. I looked from underneath and could see some light coming through on the passenger side right near the cab. I will have to see what happens when the rain hit the Seattle area beginning in about a month.

-I have one "catch" that seems to need to be pulled out manually and is sticking. Maybe this will work itself out or maybe I need to lube it up.

-The back section requires a little pop on the top (with my had) to latch it properly right now. No biggie and it seems like others have had to help it latch until it breaks in. I will wait and see what happens.

-I can't really close the tailgate without putting some significant pressure on the rubber flap. I don't want to damage it. If it becomes an issue for me maybe I will raise the rail a little.

-I am able to get into the trunk easily by just flipping the last section up. I played golf this afternoon and had no problem getting my clubs and shoes out of the trunk. My speed cart was able to ride under the cover, which was pretty nice :-)

All in all I am happy with the buy. If things change I will make sure to post details on the ROC.

Thanks to all who helped me decide on this cover.

Cheers,
Allen

I installed my BakFlip this afternoon. Took me about 35 minutes from the time I started opening the box until I was totally done. There was probably about 5 minutes worth of scratching my head here and there as I figured it out, but all in all it was almost too easy to install.

A couple of things:

-I think I wasn't able to get the cover all the way up to the cab far enough to keep it from letting some water in. I looked from underneath and could see some light coming through on the passenger side right near the cab. I will have to see what happens when the rain hit the Seattle area beginning in about a month.

-I have one "catch" that seems to need to be pulled out manually and is sticking. Maybe this will work itself out or maybe I need to lube it up.

-The back section requires a little pop on the top (with my had) to latch it properly right now. No biggie and it seems like others have had to help it latch until it breaks in. I will wait and see what happens.

-I can't really close the tailgate without putting some significant pressure on the rubber flap. I don't want to damage it. If it becomes an issue for me maybe I will raise the rail a little.

-I am able to get into the trunk easily by just flipping the last section up. I played golf this afternoon and had no problem getting my clubs and shoes out of the trunk. My speed cart was able to ride under the cover, which was pretty nice :-)

All in all I am happy with the buy. If things change I will make sure to post details on the ROC.

Thanks to all who helped me decide on this cover.

Cheers,
Allen

You can loosen the install with the 4 bigger drop-thru bolts near the cab. Bump the folded sections forward so the rubber weatherstripping is more against the cab wall -- but not popped up. This may resolve the "daylight" issue.

At the same time you are doing this, notice a few things.
If the sticking latch is one of the back ones, it's possibly because the angle of the sections is not square with the bed rails. This would explain why you see a bit of daylight near the cab. Rack it into alignment and test the latch repeatedly until it feels to release freely each time. Then carefully fold that section back toward the cab so you can retighten those drop-thru bolts.

Hope this helps.

The rear section should settle down after it's exposed to some daylight or warm sun for a day or two. Mine slams shut and locks beautifully from just a few inches of drop from above the rails.

Personally, I would not force the tailgate shut with that rear section closed. I honestly don't see that it was designed for this. The rear rubber flap should rest on top of the tailgate without being pinched up underneath that section -- in my opinion. It's very easy to raise that section just before you close the tailgate.

Finally, did you insert the two small screws near the very end of the rails, closest to the tailgate? This will support the rails properly.

You can loosen the install with the 4 bigger drop-thru bolts near the cab. Bump the folded sections forward so the rubber weatherstripping is more against the cab wall -- but not popped up. This may resolve the "daylight" issue.

I did this, but maybe I pushed it up too far?


At the same time you are doing this, notice a few things.

If the sticking latch is one of the back ones, it's possibly because the angle of the sections is not square with the bed rails. This would explain why you see a bit of daylight near the cab. Rack it into alignment and test the latch repeatedly until it feels to release freely each time. Then carefully fold that section back toward the cab so you can retighten those drop-thru bolts.

Hope this helps.
The sticking latch is the second one from the back and only on the right hand side. That also happens to be the side I see light coming in on near the cab. Hmmm.. coincidence?

The rear section should settle down after it's exposed to some daylight or warm sun for a day or two. Mine slams shut and locks beautifully from just a few inches of drop from above the rails.

After two days it already seems to be getting a little better. We won't get much sun here until next July (after September) so I hope it works fast ;-)

Personally, I would not force the tailgate shut with that rear section closed. I honestly don't see that it was designed for this. The rear rubber flap should rest on top of the tailgate without being pinched up underneath that section -- in my opinion. It's very easy to raise that section just before you close the tailgate.

That is what I was thinking also....

Finally, did you insert the two small screws near the very end of the rails, closest to the tailgate? This will support the rails properly.

I put the two small screws in and they definately help to stabilize the back end very well. I alos got a couple of spares for some reason...

Thanks,
Allen

I just purchased the Bakflip and love it . Well except for the water leak on each side rail where the center bolt has an indentation in the side panel . They need little half moon caps to close off the water seepage .
Does anyone have any suggestions ?:rolleyes:

They need little half moon caps to close off the water seepage . Does anyone have any suggestions ?:rolleyes:
To fill in the gap between the rails and the center bolt location, Retrax uses a plastic cap plug similar to this:

http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd15/jsant01/ROC%20Photos/SR1010_P_1_1.jpg

You should be able to find something close at Home Depot.

Thanks to all the ROC Forum posters here. I've been lurking since Feb. You helped me decide to buy a Ridgeline and REALLY helped me locate the right tonneau cover. I settled on the BakFlip G2 and its worked well. Bought the truck in March for delivery in May (I live in remote Alaska). Decided I would do a highway shake down trip before shipping it to the bush and needed to secure my stuff in the bed area during the trip. When Cabela's offered the G2 I special ordered the Ridgeline version from them 'cause they know how to ship to Alaska at an affordable price.

Once I located the right torx bits, installation was easy. I had reviewed a U Tube installation video but wished there were a few more RL specific instructions like are on here now. The cover has been plenty water tight and we have had a lot of rain this summer. I will use the suggestions here for drilling the filler caps on the front bed drain holes - nice touch. And I think providing a doughnut shaped spacer for the center rail bolt would be an improvement. Also finding a way to retain the upper tie downs would be very nice as at times I haul heavy stuff and need it secured - I see a note on it here and will check it out.

Certainly the G2 is much more convenient and less expensive by several hundred dollars than the Honda tonneau my neighbor has on his RL.

I do want to look into locking systems for the BakFlip but most of the time I have no need here in my home town. I would have felt a little better to be able to lock it when on the Alaska Highways and in Anchorage but I had no problems.

Now for affordable seat covers. My boys have already stained the back seat some.

I've had my G2 installed for just over a year now (BakFlip replaced my G1 that had literally fallen apart) and am completely satisfied with the price/performance value that it represents. My RL is outside 24/7 and even during really heavy rains and/or snow meltoff the most water I've ever had under the cover was a tablespoon or two (I don't have the drain tubes installed). I love the fact that I can remove the BakFlip (without assistance) in less than 5 minutes if we want to carry our mountain bikes in our homemade bike rack.

Thanks to all the ROC Forum posters here. I've been lurking since Feb. You helped me decide to buy a Ridgeline and REALLY helped me locate the right tonneau cover. I settled on the BakFlip G2 and its worked well. Bought the truck in March for delivery in May (I live in remote Alaska). Decided I would do a highway shake down trip before shipping it to the bush and needed to secure my stuff in the bed area during the trip. When Cabela's offered the G2 I special ordered the Ridgeline version from them 'cause they know how to ship to Alaska at an affordable price.

Once I located the right torx bits, installation was easy. I had reviewed a U Tube installation video but wished there were a few more RL specific instructions like are on here now. The cover has been plenty water tight and we have had a lot of rain this summer. I will use the suggestions here for drilling the filler caps on the front bed drain holes - nice touch. And I think providing a doughnut shaped spacer for the center rail bolt would be an improvement. Also finding a way to retain the upper tie downs would be very nice as at times I haul heavy stuff and need it secured - I see a note on it here and will check it out.

Certainly the G2 is much more convenient and less expensive by several hundred dollars than the Honda tonneau my neighbor has on his RL.

I do want to look into locking systems for the BakFlip but most of the time I have no need here in my home town. I would have felt a little better to be able to lock it when on the Alaska Highways and in Anchorage but I had no problems.

Now for affordable seat covers. My boys have already stained the back seat some.

Same here...installed in less than 20 minutes. Great design. I hope I have better luck than all those G1 owners out there. No leaks but I see the potential in the aforementioned areas. Anyone know what the 3 extra strips of weather seal are for?

Well, today they delivered my BakFlip G2 bed cover. Purchased it from RealTruck.com and Jason was very easy to deal with and very well informed on the product. Delivery was fast as I ordered it on 20 Oct and it came today, 23 Oct. It came via UPS (shipping was free, by the way) and survived being shipped in A-1 condiiton. Upon examination I must say that the quality of the cover was excellent, as many have previously posted. Install was very easy except for one very annoying problem. There are four bolts at the front of the cover which secure it to the bracket. They have very nice plastic knobs on them so you can tighten them by hand, but the bolts themselves each had a 1/2 inch aluminum shim at the head. These shims are NOT removeable. The shims kept each bolt from fitting flush on the bracket. I don't really know what their purpose is. They do provide washers, both metal and rubber for a water tight fit, in addition to lock washers, but with the shim on the bolt the bolts would not fit the bracket flush so the rubber washer was rendered useless. I would recommend that if your bolts come with these shims that you purchase replacement bolts which will fit flush on the bracket and give a more secure, water tight, fit. Replacement bolts cost approximately .22cents each at your local hardware store. Other than that I am thoroughly satisfied with the BakFlip product and it should provide me with many years of service.

I have to post a correction to yesterday's post re: the install of my Bakflip. I commented about the bolts and spacer/shim on the bolts. Well, today my pea brain kicked in. Yesterday I had installed the bolts in BACKWARDS, from the bottom to the top. They have to be installed from the top. This puts the nice knobs on the underside of the Bakflip for added security preventing someone from just unscrewing the thing and walking away with it. The spacer/shim is on the bolt to allow for a tighter fit between the bolt and the Bakflip bolt hole. Very well designed but it wasn't clear in the instructions. I guess I'm a slow learner. DON'T BUY ANY REPLACEMENT BOLTS. The ones which come with the cover serve their purpose very well. Sorry for any confusion I may have caused.

Anyone from Canada have a G2? Where is the best place/price to purchase?

Anyone from Canada have a G2? Where is the best place/price to purchase?

I am from Canada but luckily I have a US shipping address because the border fees were rediculous to get it shipped over and most retailers I could find in Ontario wanted twice as much as I got mine for on Ebay on a Buy It Now - Best Offer of $550 USD w/free shipping to the US back when the Canadian dollar was worth more than the US $.

Sweet deal. Can you PM me the ebay seller? I have a US shipping address as well.

Can you PM me also? I would like to buy one at that price.
Thanks...

Installed my HD a couple of days ago. Best price was straight from Bakflip in California!
Spent some time seeking the TORX 40/45 needed to remove the factory bed bolts. Northern Tool had a set 3/8" drive and the day after I bought them. I saw them on sale at Harbor Frieght for $7/set! Figures!
Easy install, only regret is losing the top tiedown, but I am working on that!
Added some doublesided tape between the rail/sidewall near the tailgate to help that little screw with support.
Looking at putting a tubing fitting on the plug in the bed that must be removed for the drain to feed into.
All-in all, very satisfied. Next project is the tailgate lock.:D:D
Noticed the gap at each side of the tailgate. Hasn't been a problem.

Call for pricing.
Julian Maimin
BAK Industries
(818) 764-0031

Installed mine yesterday as well. I did not use the lock washers, but may go back and install them -i dunno.
My cover will only be used a few times/year since I will usually be hauling dirtbikes. I found that I did NOT have to remove the upper tie downs. They are still there, and after next week's ski trip to Tahoe, all I will have to do is pull the cover off and load the bikes. Very nice design.
They clearly went through a lot of trouble to try and keep water out, which is funny, I must be the only guy on ROC that could care less about water in the bed (within reason). I only want it there so that I do not have to store my skis and snowboards in the cab.
I did have to install the tailgate end just a bit up and off of the ledge in order to get the cover to snap in place relatively easily. Good thing I did not install the self tapping screws until last. Use shims to get the gap you want for easiest closure, and then installed the screws.
I also installed a tailgate lock which took me the better part of half a day...I had to re fabricate my brackets since upon completion the first time around, I had too big of a gap and in the locked position, thus the tailgate still opened.

So now with the two combined, I am good to go. I just hope someone that it curious about what might be under the tonneau does not break the handles trying to open the tailgate.

Installed my cover in about 35 minutes-a breeze. Wasn't sure about which one to pick from the variety offered through the online store site, but after reading the info generated through this site decided to go for the Bakflip, and am happy so far with it, especially ease of install. Only problem is trunk not opening fully, but if that is the worst thing that happens, then life is good.

installed mine yesterday and it was a breeze. so simple to install, i think it took about 25 minutes. happy with it so far. it's raining today so i'll have to see how dry the bed is after work.

I'm glad you guys (and gals?) found this useful. Mine has been on since June and gone through rain, snow and ice. No real complaints, so far. I just lift the rear section and let it drop and the locks slip shut. Always looks clean. Really a nice solution and very practical.

i have to say that all they things that everyone about the cover ill def be going throw with it and buy this one. im looking for a cover and was up in the air about getting one. and now im going to get this one

Just to give everyone a heads up. Ebay is giving 8% cashback with "Buy It Now"

Learn more here:

http://pages.ebay.com/CASHBACKOFFER/TERMS.HTML

It is a good deal if you get the Bakflip G2 as a "Buy It Now". The cheapest I saw two days ago on Ebay was $690 shipped. You will get about $55 back within 60 days. Making it a total of $635 for the Bakflip G2!!

I really wanted the Backflip HD (Florida's sun would beat the G2 up). So I calculated my 8% cashback with the HD from Ebay...It was about $80 back..but still not a good deal. So then...I went to Realtruck.com and did a quote through the website. They gave me a $75 off coupon. I then found these coupons for Realtruck:

5% - DeeZee
7% - BD7
8% - SJ912

Of couse I used the 8% off. Making my total $841 out the door. I liked the price of the G2...but I felt the HD would handle better in the Florida sun. Still a great deal!! On Ebay they were around $990...$910 with Cash Back.

If you are going to use Cash Back....You need to decide soon on makin the purchase. Ebay only does it for so long...The last time it was done was back in December.

Here is the Live Cash Link:

http://www.live.com/

Type in "Wii" and look for the Cash Back symbol about an Ebay link. This link explains the process:

http://pages.ebay.com/CASHBACKOFFER/TERMS.HTML

Good luck on your decision!

got some rain yesterday and the bed stayed dry...i gotta tell you, its only been a few days, but i'm already loving this cover...

Just to give everyone a heads up. Ebay is giving 8% cashback with "Buy It Now"

Learn more here:

http://pages.ebay.com/CASHBACKOFFER/TERMS.HTML

It is a good deal if you get the Bakflip G2 as a "Buy It Now". The cheapest I saw two days ago on Ebay was $690 shipped. You will get about $55 back within 60 days. Making it a total of $635 for the Bakflip G2!!

I really wanted the Backflip HD (Florida's sun would beat the G2 up). So I calculated my 8% cashback with the HD from Ebay...It was about $80 back..but still not a good deal. So then...I went to Realtruck.com and did a quote through the website. They gave me a $75 off coupon. I then found these coupons for Realtruck:

5% - DeeZee
7% - BD7
8% - SJ912

Of couse I used the 8% off. Making my total $841 out the door. I liked the price of the G2...but I felt the HD would handle better in the Florida sun. Still a great deal!! On Ebay they were around $990...$910 with Cash Back.

If you are going to use Cash Back....You need to decide soon on makin the purchase. Ebay only does it for so long...The last time it was done was back in December.

Here is the Live Cash Link:

http://www.live.com/

Type in "Wii" and look for the Cash Back symbol about an Ebay link. This link explains the process:

http://pages.ebay.com/CASHBACKOFFER/TERMS.HTML

Good luck on your decision!

Thanks for the tips. I followed your instructions and got both the $75 coupon and the 8% discount on the G2 HD, for a total delivered price of $841.58. I'm very happy with that.

Your welcome. I thought it was such a great deal....that it had to be shared with other ROC members.

My BakFlip HD was shipped out today from California...It has a long journey, but should be here Tuesday.

I cannot wait to do the install!

I have had mine for several months now. I don't think rain ever gets in it. The latches on it have gotten easier and easier as they have broken in the longer I have had it. The only time I recall getting water in it is going through the car wash. Even then it's not a lot of water.

Question: is everyone's G2 unit made of plastic, not aluminum? I ended up talking with "the guy" at Bak Industries (a real fast-talking dude) who told me they quit making it with polymers, that all units shipped by them to dealers for 4 months have been the alum. units. He sent me pics of it--looked like cheap mobile-home aluminum siding, wouldn't even use it on my 1982 F150. Any comments?

My G2 panels are plastic. The hardware, like hinges, etc, are aluminum.

Are you sure he isnt talking only about the HD model? Unless he was saying thats all they're manufacturing now.

My G2 panels are plastic. The hardware, like hinges, etc, are aluminum.

Are you sure he isnt talking only about the HD model? Unless he was saying thats all they're manufacturing now.


He said the alum. model ("HD") has replaced the plastic (G2) and the alum. is all they are shipping now. He even cut me a deal if I'd order it right then directly from BAK ($695 delivered). He emailed me some pics of the alum. and I did not like the way it looked, or the fact that it might get dented by hail, etc.

He said the alum. model ("HD") has replaced the plastic (G2) and the alum. is all they are shipping now. He even cut me a deal if I'd order it right then directly from BAK ($695 delivered). He emailed me some pics of the alum. and I did not like the way it looked, or the fact that it might get dented by hail, etc.

They still advertise the G2 BakFlip.


http://www.bakflip-tonneau.com/features.asp?tabid=2

They still advertise the G2 BakFlip.


http://www.bakflip-tonneau.com/features.asp?tabid=2


The link you attached is for a dealer, not for the mfgr. Bak Industries. I spoke with the mfgr., that is who told me re. the change to aluminum. It can get confusing though, as most of their dealers have integrated the Bak logo & name into their own companies' names to capitalize on their notoriety.

That being said, yes, even BAK still advertises the G2 in THEIR website, even after they told me its replaced by the HD. This correlates with the general mis-information that is rampant in BAK's website. For all I know, the guy at BAK (has an Aussie accent) may have simply told me that in order to move out some overstock on the HD model! He WAS a fast talker.... :)

The link you attached is for a dealer, not for the mfgr. Bak Industries. I spoke with the mfgr., that is who told me re. the change to aluminum. It can get confusing though, as most of their dealers have integrated the Bak logo & name into their own companies' names to capitalize on their notoriety.

That being said, yes, even BAK still advertises the G2 in THEIR website, even after they told me its replaced by the HD. This correlates with the general mis-information that is rampant in BAK's website. For all I know, the guy at BAK (has an Aussie accent) may have simply told me that in order to move out some overstock on the HD model! He WAS a fast talker.... :)

I got the link I posted from the BAKFLIP sponsor of this forum. maybe they are just a dealer/vendor???

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19630

I got the link I posted from the BAKFLIP sponsor of this forum. maybe they are just a dealer/vendor???

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19630


Correct--they are a dealer, not a mfgr. FYI, I just ordered the G2 from Truck Add-Ons for $650 including delivery.

Correct--they are a dealer, not a mfgr. FYI, I just ordered the G2 from Truck Add-Ons for $650 including delivery.

True, but the point I was trying to make is that the G2 apparently is still available. I've had the G2 on my RL for almost a year now..No problems yet! I Paid $625 shipped for it then..You got a good deal.

bobbybob,

How did you get it for 650 shipped?

bobbybob,

How did you get it for 650 shipped?

x2... The price I'm getting thru their site is $775. What am I missing, or did the prices just go way up? :confused:

Found a new G2 on eBay (seller: auto1090) for $670 + $20 ship & $10 insurance. Total was $700, less $60.30 thanks to BiZzKiTtKiLlA's tip on the Live cashback deal. So, $639.70 at my front door...

Now just waitin' on the little brown truck...

Thanks BiZzKiTtKiLlA for the cost savings, and to the OP for the great writeup!
Hope I like the thing as much as everyone else ;)
Next up, a lock for the gate...

Please let us know how you like the Bakflip G2. I was also thinking of getting one before we go on vacation in early June.

If the live cashback number goes up again, I will jump on the ebay deal.

Thanks, Brad

Installed the Bakflip G2 a couple of weeks ago. Purch from RealTruck, 661 after 60 instant save & 75 email coupon. Installation just over an hour. Looks great, open/close with ease. Seems like nothing but rain for the past 2 weeks and only minor moisture mostly right side rear - on side panel of bed. Have not put the 2 screws in yet at the end of the rails - will do so tomorrow.

Purchased the popnlock at the same time - have not installed yet.

I bought the HD model just a few ago. Got it for $840 delivered thanks to an email coupon and a discount code I learned about from another thread on this site. The cover arrived quickly and in great shape. Installation was very easy and straightforward. I'm very impressed with the design, the materials, and the fit and finish. It looks great, works great and seems like it will last a long time.

I have not installed the drain tubes, and I have been getting just a few drops of water in the bed after fairly heavy rains, which doesn't bother me at all.

Overall, I'm very happy with my purchase. I did quite a bit of research on this site before deciding on the Bakflip HD. From most accounts, there are several very good options available to Ridgeline owners and it's mostly a matter of preference as to which tonneau cover is best for you. But I can definitely recommend the Bakflip HD for those who like its particular design and features.

-Kirk

I figured I post my review of the Bakflip G2 HD since I had it for about a month. I have to say...very impressed!! A few weeks ago, I was in Orlando with the family. The last day there...it poured...I mean poured!! We had suite cases, bags, etc. in the back. As hard as it rained, just a little moisture made it inside. I did not not install the drain tubes...just to test out how much water will make it inside. I guess I will leave them off for now.

The Bakflip G2 HD was very easy to install...thanks to the tip on here for the hex adapter (got it from Sears).

Today was the first day I drove with the Bakflip G2 HD folded all the way open. No problems with movement while driving at 50mph.

The Bakflip G2 HD definitely serves its purpose. I highly recommend the Bakflip G2 HD and Pop-N-Lock.

You are welcome. Glad you took advantage of this great deal!

Found a new G2 on eBay (seller: auto1090) for $670 + $20 ship & $10 insurance. Total was $700, less $60.30 thanks to BiZzKiTtKiLlA's tip on the Live cashback deal. So, $639.70 at my front door...

Now just waitin' on the little brown truck...

Thanks BiZzKiTtKiLlA for the cost savings, and to the OP for the great writeup!
Hope I like the thing as much as everyone else ;)
Next up, a lock for the gate...

Where do you get the e-mail coupon for the g2 bakflip? Anyone know?

You don't need to reply to my question about the coupons. In order to receive them you have to many hoops to jump through. I just ordered my G2 Bakflip $745. I spent so much money on extras for this Ridgeline, I will have to keep the true cost from my wife. Oh Mr. Honda what are you doing to me?

Just got mine today and installed it. Install took about 30 minutes (Did it over lunch) No issues installing it, however the O rings were missing (the ones you attach a bungie cord to if you want to keep the unit partly open) So I called the company and they are sending me a set + screws. If someone has a pic of their Bakflip installed could I get a pic of the O ring locations please?

All in all seems like a very nicely built unit. After you install it, adjust the rubber pieces on the side (the pieces where the rain would run down) and put them up so they look correct. Let them bake in the sun that way so they want to go back to that position after opened + closed. I can see rain getting in there when they aren't set correctly. Any other suggestions here please chime in.

Thanks!
- Steve

Also Bizz.. I left my drain tubes out too, I would rather not use them so I'll see how it works out.

Just got mine today and installed it. Install took about 30 minutes (Did it over lunch) No issues installing it, however the O rings were missing (the ones you attach a bungie cord to if you want to keep the unit partly open) So I called the company and they are sending me a set + screws. If someone has a pic of their Bakflip installed could I get a pic of the O ring locations please?
Don't have a pic to forward (left my camera bag in VT last weekend) but just went out and measured mine and they're mounted to the aluminum rail nearest the cab and about 8.5" from the outer edges of the BakFlip. Hope this helps.

Thanks a million! They are sending me six of them. So I take it the top piece has 2, can you check if the underside of any of the flip pieces have any my guess is the other 4 must be under there.

Thanks a million! They are sending me six of them. So I take it the top piece has 2, can you check if the underside of any of the flip pieces have any my guess is the other 4 must be under there.
hmmm, just looked and none on the underside of any of my panels (it's a fairly early G2 so it's possible this was a running change) - never missed them as I carry an assortment of bungee cords and usually secure the open panels either to whatever I'm hauling or to the rear tie-downs - you should post pics of where you decide to mount your other 4

Thanks again for checking, once I get them i'll figure out what i'm going to do.

Last question, when you removed the original Honda tie downs that you need to remove to install the cover, did you find a home for those? or are they removed as long as the cover is on? I read one person put them back on in the same spot behind the railings but I wasn't sure if that would work or not.

is it lockable by any chance?:confused:

I purchased a pop and lock seperately (seems to be the common solution) which locks the tailgate.

Since the tailgate needs to be open to open the bakflip, the lock suits the need greatly.

Great Bed Cover, had it for a year and a half now on my 2008 RTX. Seals great doesn't impede much when open and easy to remove if needed. I think it is the only one suited well for the ridgeline. The roll back products aren't bad but you loose depth in the bed up in the back.

Thanks a million! They are sending me six of them. So I take it the top piece has 2, can you check if the underside of any of the flip pieces have any my guess is the other 4 must be under there.

My BakFlip cover just has the 2 rings on top, none on the underside. I keep a couple bungee cords handy if I need to drive with a panel or two flipped open.

I took a pic to show the location of one side. I had to zoom in because of low light inside the garage even with the door open. The top is wet...been raining most of the last few days.

I have the pop & Lock too. I got the silver..It matches really well.

I bought the bakflip g2 for $750 about a month ago. I'm not sure how the other brands work or the cost. This is working fine for me. Except one plastic side piece that covers the removed front upper tie downs before installing the cover, was missing. Our sites distributor said Bakflip said they weren't needed, that is a lie! The water would pour in through the indentation so I used temporary black duck tape to cover the area before installing my bakflip cover. I have a bed mat that will keep a small amount of water off my cargo. I'm calling Bakflip this coming week and let them tell me why their engineers feel that their bed cover doesn't need to keep my cargo dry. With the black tape in place only a few drops of water enters my bed during a good rain.

Hi all
Install my HD last Sat with ease. However I do encounter 2 problems.
First my 2 pop up stick which hold the panel up against the cab were install right where the latches catch the rail.:confused: Since I figure the panels will never rest against the cab so I decided to remove them. (see picture)
Second problem I had was the pull cable keep rubbing the aluminum channel edge when I pull it. It already cause some fraying of the cable. I use a fine file filed around all channel edges so I don't have to replace the cable down the road.;)
Last night it was pouring rain and I found a lot of water dripping from midway of both rails:eek: Water dripping from the 4 holes where the pop up sticks used to be. Use several dap of caulk to plug the holes and I'm good to go;)
Does anybody have the same problem? Overall I'm happy with my purchase consider what I paid for it.

Sorry to hear about your problems with the Bakflip HD. I was planning on purchasing one in the near future. Hope the quality control is there. Maybe not!

Brad

I must say though, considering what we did pay for it, their Quality control is really crap. You shouldn't have had to do anything other than install the unit. At least yours came with the d rings installed

Finally got around to installing my G2 - life is just way too busy! Anyway, a very easy install, as others have noted. Haven't tested it for leakage yet, but certainly looks well-sealed.

Only one question: Are the four elevator bolts that hold down the front (cab end) section supposed to use plastic knobs, or regular nuts on the underside? Mine are nuts, not knobs so you have to have a wrench to fully remove the cover...

Maybe I should give the factory a ring...?

Only one question: Are the four elevator bolts that hold down the front (cab end) section supposed to use plastic knobs, or regular nuts on the underside? Mine are nuts, not knobs so you have to have a wrench to fully remove the cover...

Maybe I should give the factory a ring...?

Yep...call them, mine comes w/knobs.

The Bakflip G2 is the cover I am contemplating purchasing, but it seems like all too often something is messed up with the production of these units. Why can't their quality control be addressed so they can eliminate the needless headaches?

Since Bakflip seems to be a sponsor on this forum, someone from the company should make some noise on our behalf, so these issues get resolved before the product reaches the consumer.:(

Brad

I can only speak from my personal experience but I had an original BakFlip and they exchanged it without question with a G2 when the panels began to separate. Therefore, I'd have to give them an A+ for customer service. I've now had a BakFlip on my RTL for over 2 years and have never had more than a few drops of water under the cover (drain tubes NOT installed), despite it having been driven through several severe "gully washer" rainstorms and sitting with lots of melting snow.

Would I buy one again if I were starting over? Quite possibly, although now that there's a Full-Metal Jackrabbit available from Pace-Edwards I'd have to give that some serious consideration but from a price-performance ration point of view I still think that the BakFlip is the most cost-effective option for a hard tonneau cover.

I just got the G2 cover today an installed it in about 20 minutes time.The only thing that i think is lacking quality is the two plastic wire clips that the use to hold the rods when not being used. I have to find something better than that. I had a 1st gen that i bought used and sold already. What a big difference in the quality of the cover.

My G2 is a year old this week and still looks and works like brand new.
I really like the look and added the pop-n-lock that works great too.
My 2006 has 46000 miles and is paid for so next up is an upgraded in dash NAV and some fog lights.
Don't hesitate to get a cover, you will love it.

Thank you for the encouragement. I was not bashing the G2, just voicing my opinion that some little annoyances seem to continue to occur. I am waiting for the "bing" cash to go above 8% to make the move on the cover. Hopefully that won't take too long.

Brad:D

Yep...call them, mine comes w/knobs.

So I called today and explained my situation. The rep was very helpful and immediately took my name and address and said that four knobs would be on their way via UPS today. Even gave me the tracking number.

So far I'm reasonably satisfied. (I say "reasonably" only because I haven't had the cover out in the "real world" yet...) I understand that mistakes will happen in anything, and when the corrective response is quick and positive, it really goes a long way. So far, I'd buy again.

Hey fellas (and gals)

I just installed a Bakflip G2, and was wondering where yall put the drain tubes. Right now I havent installed them because there didnt seem to be a great place to put them.

The only options I can see are removing the bolts below the plastic covers embedded in the bed of the truck, or cutting a hole in the side panel and draining through the quarter panel.

Let me know if yall understand my question and if you have any answers!

Thanks a lot!

I copied this member -I think its the cleanest way to do it.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=247787&postcount=445

Awesome, thanks!

I have my cover for about 3 weeks. Here in New York we have had some torrential downpours over the last week or two. I have not installed my drain tubes and i have not had a drip of water in the bed at all. I guess if the cover is installed the correct way the advise there should be no water getting in...

here's a pic of my BakFlip with a couple of bikes on top...trip was from nj to the outer banks of north carolina...amazing times.

here's a pic of my BakFlip with a couple of bikes on top...trip was from nj to the outer banks of north carolina...amazing times.

try the pictures again as I would like to see.

MC

We had a really severe thunderstorm with hard, driving rain early Sunday morning (around 3-4 am) in VT and I had the missus' new Callaway irons (still in their box) in my bed under the BakFlip and was slightly worried that they might be a little wet - opened the tonneau Sunday after breakfast and there wasn't enough water underneath to overload a Kleenex! Literally only a couple of drops under each front corner. Don't know exactly how much rain was in that little storm but it was enough to raise the level of our pond an inch or two and beat down some of our flower beds!

After owning this tonneau for a month or more now. I am so happy w/ my purchase. I think they definately have some factory quality control issues on part missing, etc. But the cover itself works great. I would say its not water tight but I didn't expect that. When it pours I see some drizzel inside but nothing to worry about. Nice solid cover, and I've been asked many times where I got it. By far better than the honda factory cover.

Nice solid cover, and I've been asked many times where I got it. By far better than the honda factory cover.
Same here and one of my neighbors now sports one on his Chevy 1-ton diesel pickup.

not too sure why it didnt work the first time. here goes

Had our first torrential downpour since installing the cover... Not completely watertight, but I am going to take a close look at how it's adjusted. I tested it later with a hose - seems like I do get some water from the tubes, as well as some that seems to work its way down the inside of the front bed wall and appears in the gap between the front bed wall and the bed floor (in the center, not near either tube).

Overall I still like the product, and since others have "dry" installations, I'm figuring it's possible to get mine to be drier than now...

Ordered by Bakflip yesterday......:D

Bakflip arrived yesterday :D

UPS person left box out in the Rain :rolleyes:

Bakflip arrived yesterday :D

UPS person left box out in the Rain :rolleyes:

Maybe he/she thought it would make it easier to get the box off in the excitement of getting it put on the RIDGE!:D:cool:
If you don't mind me asking what model and were did you purchase it from/price?

G2--ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BAKFLIP-FOLDING-TONNEAU-COVER-HONDA-RIDGELINE-2006-UP_W0QQitemZ370120103933QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item562ce097fd&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

G2--ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BAKFLIP-FOLDING-TONNEAU-COVER-HONDA-RIDGELINE-2006-UP_W0QQitemZ370120103933QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_ Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item562ce097fd&_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116

Thanks Nak,
I will have to take a look at this. Good price.\
John

I am waiting for the "bing" sale beginning on 8/10/2009. Hopefully we will be able to snag this Bakflip G2 for a nice discount.

http://forums.slickdeals.net/showthread.php?sduid=525197&t=1455111

Glad to hear you guys love your G2.

Brad:)

I just got mine installed in canada.
$1095 Canadian
$75.00 installation
$140 taxes

$13,104 Canux bux & worth every penny!!

We had a really severe thunderstorm with hard, driving rain early Sunday morning (around 3-4 am) in VT and I had the missus' new Callaway irons (still in their box) in my bed under the BakFlip and was slightly worried that they might be a little wet - opened the tonneau Sunday after breakfast and there wasn't enough water underneath to overload a Kleenex! Literally only a couple of drops under each front corner. Don't know exactly how much rain was in that little storm but it was enough to raise the level of our pond an inch or two and beat down some of our flower beds!

What did you do with the spout that the drain tube connects to? Did you cap it off or block it in any way so water doesn't drip thru it? Or is water just not dripping thru it at all?

Bakflip HD installed today. Sweet! Topped the deal off with Dynolock and now bed locks up and much more utility.

The front knobs wouldn’t turn. I had to grind down the front knobs to make them smaller so they would clear the drain tube spout
Is this a design flaw?
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w60/breye/Knob.jpg

Spent some time looking for leaks... One spot seems to be behind the front wall of the bed. That is, while the cover seals tight against the composite bed wall, some water seems to be going between the window assembly and the bed wall and then showing up at the bottom joint with the floor. Anybody else have this??

I leak in the same spot :rolleyes:

I just got a good deal off of eBay on an HD. Can't wait to get it!