problem with rnl tonneau cover

I recently purchased the M series product and had it installed professionally by the same place. Last night I had a very difficult time turning the lock lever to the open position (10 o'clock). I managed to finally turn it open after numerous attempts and more force. I don't believe that something was broken in any way, but it was VERY tight. Once opened I tested it and found that the spring latch was not working properly as it was not stopping in the interval positions. I kept turning the lock lever back and forth to trigger the latch and it finally started working. I sprayed some lube on it in case it was frozen.

Here are my questions:

should both latches 'move' or 'trigger' when the lock lever is turned? I only notice the right latch (passenger side) 'moving' when I turn the lock lever.

is the lock lever mechanism/springs (underneath the cover) prone to freezing? (I live in Toronto, Ontario Canada)

Thanks.

It would be easier to diagnose the issue if you could call our tech line at 800-952-7655 as there could be a couple of contributing factors. Our staff could quickly zero in on the answer if they could ask a couple of quick questions. Regardless, I'll cover some simple solutions here.

First, for the lock-lever to open smoothly you need to pull the handle towards the tailgate. It won't move very far, but this takes the pressure off of the latches that is caused by the torsion spring always trying to pull the cover into the housing. You'll find that if you do this, the lock lever will turn effortlessly (provided it is unlocked of course).

Once unlocked, for the latches to fire-off and engage the various mid-open points, the lock lever needs to be reset. This can be done by either manualy turning it from the 10 o'clock "unlocked" position to the 7 o'clock "locked" position, or by allowing the cover to retract all of the way into the housing with enough force so that the lock lever enters the "lock-pocket" in the center of the housing lid and is automatically reset.

If you are doing these two steps correctly, then the next answer may be that one of the linkage arms that connects the lock lever mechanism to the spring loaded latches may be bent. This usually ocurs when the mechanism is either forced open or if some sort of cargo was high enough to snagg on it while the cover was being opened or closed. If this is the case, the component is easily replaced.

I hope some of this helps, however if you feel more information is necessary please call the number I gave at the beginning and we'll get you fixed-up right away. The factory is in the eastern time zone and is open from 8am to 5pm.

Best regards,

Dan Beaulaurier
National Sales Manager
Roll-N-Lock Corporation

Hi Dan. I went back to the place where I got the cover and installed. They confirmed that it was just frozen. I should spray it with some sort of silicone like Rust Check to keep it from freezing.

Anyways, are there any other tips to keep this from freezing? I'm surprised that the linkage arms are not insulated in any way to prevent this from happening.

Also, is there anything I can do with the limited in-bed trunk opening due to the railing of the cover?

Thanks

j2k99:

Prior to assembly we coat the lock & latch components with a chemical that is meant to disburse any moisture and keep those components from freezing. However, on rare occasions, extreme conditions can still circumvent our efforts. I must caution you that if you plan to use another chemical on these components DO NOT use anything that has a silicone base as silicone will be detrimental to the vinyl surface.

The limited range of the in-bed truck lid is the result of the geometry necessary to provide an integrated tailgate lock mechanism. If the rails sat up on top of the OE bedrails, the leading edge of the cover would be elevated above the tailgate and not be able to engage the tailgate lock strip. However, by lowering the unit inside the sidewalls we are able to offer this feature, consequently making the whole bed a secure storage area for items much larger than would fit in the OE trunk area.

Best regards,
Dan

Hi Dan.
I'm using a product called PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst which apparently does not contain any silicone. Do you think this is adequate to use? I'm really only spraying underneath where the linkage arms are located. I sprayed the spring area and also the lever area underneath. According to their website, this spray is designed to loosen the surface tension of frozen parts and protects against further rust.

Thanks again for your input.

Hi Dan.
I'm using a product called PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst which apparently does not contain any silicone. Do you think this is adequate to use? I'm really only spraying underneath where the linkage arms are located. I sprayed the spring area and also the lever area underneath. According to their website, this spray is designed to loosen the surface tension of frozen parts and protects against further rust.

Thanks again for your input.


Has using that product solved your problem with the arms freezing?