Which one to install?

Everyone,

This is the most amazing site for Ridgeline enthusiast!! I am brand new to this site and after spending 4 straight days on it searching and reading, I finally gathered up the courage to post. I hope you all can be kind enough to help.

Over thanksgiving, instead of going on vacation with my wife, she and I ended up spending all weekend researching and shopping for parts for our stereo upgrade. It will be in Phases as I don't have the courage to jump in too quickly and I have tons of questions as I am brand new to stereo installation but a quick learner.

Phase 1: Speakers replacement.
I bought a set of Polk mm6501 and Polk mm651. I also bought a set of Focal 165A1 and 165CA1. I plan to replace the stock speakers and put the tweeters in the original factory location. I have the 6 CD changer on my RTL and would use the factory HU to start and replace it with something else later.

1) What would you guys recommend to install - the Polk or the Focal? Why -all comments and experiences would be greatly welcome.
2) The original factory tweeter wires, does it run back to the front speakers so I can just reuse them from my crossover?
3) Do I need any special tools - such as crimping tools, wires, etc? How do I attach the wires to the speakers - do I have to buy the special connectors and crimping tools (sorry for being so ignorant). I have read as much as I can but some details still remain fuzzy. Once again I am brand new. I plan to order the harness, kits, and antenna adaptor from Crutchfield - is that a good idea?
4) From reading on the forum, it seems that the Ridgeline has a shallow 6.5 inch opening and for both speakers I will need to cut new holes (jigsaw the metal). Is that correct?
5) I also bought some DynamiExtreme barrier - should I use them?
6) Anything else I need for phase 1?


Phase 2: Replace Head Unit (HU)
I am hoping to pick up the Kenwood DNX-5120 over the next few days. I plan to use the SWI Jack, Bluetooth adapter, and IPOD connector.

1) Should I replace the speaker wires with thicker gauge or will the current existing speaker wires suffice?
2) I assume all the power, wires, etc. are all there from the factory install and I can reuse them for the new head units?
3) Do I need to run any special new power line?


Phase 3: Install backup camera, install amp for sub, and install amp for 4 speakers.
I picked up a Polk PA400.1 amp for my sub and Alpine 4.150. I was thinking about simply driving the factory sub with my PA amp to see if it is satisfactory. I also plan to install the Kenwood camera at that time.

1) Should I skip trying to drive the factory sub and simply build one? All my equipment has to fit behind the seats and I found a few nice mods that people have done.
2) Is my Alpine 150 per channel an over kill for my speakers? The Focals are only rated up to 120 watts. I believe the Polk speakers are well within the range of handling what the Alpine amp can throw at it. Should I just let the Kenwood head unit drive my speakers?
3) Is there any special technique for hanging all these equipemnt from the back wall? I need to hide them as floor space is a premium.
4) Will the heat flow from the amp going to be an issue?
5) Do I need any special size wires to drive the speakers?
6) Do I need to run new power to the amp? Do I run a dedicated line from the battery or tap into one of the fuse box?

Lastly, did I get my activities correct for each phase or should I consider reshuffling a few things? I am nervous as heck as I have never done this before.

Thank you once again guys. There are so many great pictures and helpful hints on the sites and I have searched for most of them. I apologize if I am repeating some questions that already exist out there. Thanks again.

Between Focal and Polk Focal is the better choice, 150 watts to the speaker is no problem because you'll never play at that wattage and keep your hearing. The tweete wire does tie into the door wire but you would have to disassemble the whole dash to find it so run new wires. The door wiring is tedious and time consuming because it is of the molex plug type. Their are posts in the Mobile electronics section to help with door wiring.:)

This weekend I installed the Polk DB561s speakers in the doors.

I bought them from Crutchfields because they include the mounts and cable adaptors. I only planned to do fronts but a sales promotions reduces the second set 50%.

The printed install instructions and phone service support I got while installing made the small price difference insignificant.

A few answers in no particular order....

The Ridgeline doesn't really require an especially shallow speaker. The problem is the unusually small door opening for the factory speaker. It is kinda keyhole shaped. So you may or may not need to cut metal depending on the size and shape of the speaker frame and magnet.

The factory tweeters are wired in parallel (the normal way) with the door speakers but I never chased the wire to find out where it goes. I wouldn't use the factory wire. Run your own to the crossover.

Crimpers (etc.). I'd say anyone who installs car audio needs a good crimper tool. You will also need the appropriate connectors - whether for power or speakers.

You WILL need to run dedicated power wiring to your new amps. The amps you listed all require significant current to operate properly and there is no suitable source for power behind the rear seat. You need to run high quality wire to the battery with a fuse near the battery.

I think anyone willing to put Focals in the door will not be satisfied with the factory sub. 400W is way overkill for the factory sub. It is just an ordinary 8 inch driver in a plastic box. Using such a big amp means unnecessarily heavy power wire, amp physical size, and heat.

Your power to the doors is generous. It is too much only if you run the speakers full range at high volumes. No door speaker can withstand 100W at 40 Hz for long. I strongly suggest you take advantage of any high pass filters provided in the amps.

You should have adequate airflow behind the seats for your amps unless they are so large that they rest against the back of the seat. Look at Shovelhd's install or mine (http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6783) for some examples of amps mounted behind the seat.

You're kind of in over your head. There are some very basic principles that you don't understand, like never try and power a 4.150 from a fuse tap. You were very nice and polite though so I'll do my best to help you learn quickly and keep you from blowing something up. Rule #1 - ALWAYS disconnect the ground lead from the battery before doing any of this work.


1) What would you guys recommend to install - the Polk or the Focal? Why -all comments and experiences would be greatly welcome.

Both are good products and will just start to sound good when the OEM HU runs out of gas. Stage 3 will come quicker than you think. If it were my choice there would be no choice. It would be the Focal's.


2) The original factory tweeter wires, does it run back to the front speakers so I can just reuse them from my crossover?

I suggest that you run new speaker wires even at this stage.


3) Do I need any special tools - such as crimping tools, wires, etc? How do I attach the wires to the speakers - do I have to buy the special connectors and crimping tools (sorry for being so ignorant). I have read as much as I can but some details still remain fuzzy. Once again I am brand new. I plan to order the harness, kits, and antenna adaptor from Crutchfield - is that a good idea?

There are two main ways to make low voltage connections in a vehicle.
a) strip and solder - strip the wires, twist them together, solder the connection, and cover with heat shrink tubing or electrical tape
b) crimp connectors, i.e. spades, bullet, butt splices, etc.

Strip, twist and tape is not acceptable.


4) From reading on the forum, it seems that the Ridgeline has a shallow 6.5 inch opening and for both speakers I will need to cut new holes (jigsaw the metal). Is that correct?

It depends. That's one option. You may have no choice if the driver magnet won't fit through the hole. Another option which many of us have done successfully is use a spacer behind the driver and trim the inside of the door panel with a utility knife. You'll know more once you take the door panel off.


5) I also bought some DynamiExtreme barrier - should I use them?

Why would you not use something you've already bought? :confused:


6) Anything else I need for phase 1?

A good set of panel removal tools (KTC set)
Some spare white OEM panel fasteners (you will break at least one)
A multimeter (not required but comes in handy)
Basic hand tools
A factory manual (not required but is invaluable)
Antiseptic, bandages, and a ton of patience

Phase 2: Replace Head Unit (HU)
I am hoping to pick up the Kenwood DNX-5120 over the next few days. I plan to use the SWI Jack, Bluetooth adapter, and IPOD connector.

1) Should I replace the speaker wires with thicker gauge or will the current existing speaker wires suffice?

See above.

2) I assume all the power, wires, etc. are all there from the factory install and I can reuse them for the new head units?

You will need two things to reuse the wiring, a harness adapter and an antenna adapter.

3) Do I need to run any special new power line?

You can run all of the low power stuff you listed above off of the harness adapter.

The 5120 will provide more clean power than the OEM HU but it will just run out of gas a little bit later. Those speakers need amplification.

Phase 3: Install backup camera, install amp for sub, and install amp for 4 speakers.
I picked up a Polk PA400.1 amp for my sub and Alpine 4.150. I was thinking about simply driving the factory sub with my PA amp to see if it is satisfactory. I also plan to install the Kenwood camera at that time.

1) Should I skip trying to drive the factory sub and simply build one? All my equipment has to fit behind the seats and I found a few nice mods that people have done.

It depends what you want out of it. If I had invested in beautiful speakers like Focal's, any thought of using the factory sub is silliness. Building your own box is certainly possible but designing and building one is a lot harder than you might think.

2) Is my Alpine 150 per channel an over kill for my speakers? The Focals are only rated up to 120 watts. I believe the Polk speakers are well within the range of handling what the Alpine amp can throw at it. Should I just let the Kenwood head unit drive my speakers?

Amps have gain controls which should be used when setting the system up. You won't hurt the Focal's if you set your gains correctly.

3) Is there any special technique for hanging all these equipemnt from the back wall? I need to hide them as floor space is a premium.

There are many ways to do this. Pull the rear seat back and you'll figure it out. I used amplifier boards mounted to the bulkhead struts. I do not like drilling into exterior metal. You don't have to.

4) Will the heat flow from the amp going to be an issue?

No. I've never had a thermal problem with over 2KW back there.


5) Do I need any special size wires to drive the speakers?

At 150W/ch I would use no less than 16G and preferably 14G.


6) Do I need to run new power to the amp? Do I run a dedicated line from the battery or tap into one of the fuse box?

Get that tap thought out of your mind right now. :)

You can run dedicated power wiring to each amp or run one larger wire and use a distribution block. Your choice. I found it easier to run two 4G wires, one for each amp, than run one 0/1G wire. Whatever you do, use high quality battery connectors, and fuse the power wire as close as you can to the battery. Tie down the unfused power wire(s) tightly and keep them away from metal. If one of those power wires shorts to ground, there is a good chance your truck will catch on fire. As for grounds, there are plenty of places in the rear bulkhead area for grounds. Use a good quality connector, clean the area up well, and try and stay away from seat belt bolts.


Lastly, did I get my activities correct for each phase or should I consider reshuffling a few things? I am nervous as heck as I have never done this before.



Like I said, you won't be happy with the Focal's and either HU. Stage 1 isn't going to last very long. If you can't do everything at once, I would do the Kenwood HU and the speakers first. Add the 4 channel amp next. Then add the sub and amp.

Good luck.

Shovelhd,

Thank you so much for showing me kindness. I am continue to search and browse diligently on the forum for answers. I also found on You Tube a generic Crutchfield amp install and understand better the power line with in line fuse for the amp. Thanks for all the safety advise too.

Once again, thank you.

You're welcome. If you have any specific questions, ask them here. I'll keep an eye on this thread.

Hoffman,

Thank you for your input also, I missed you post and just read it.

Some additional questions.

Do you guys have any good suggestions on service manual I can pick up that tells me how to remove the dash, siding, etc. I found some good post on removing doors, removing seats, etc. but I figure it wouldn't hurt to get some full picture before I start work.

Also, where is the best place to order all the nick nack stuff such as gauge 4cable, crimp tools, female sleeve connector, heat shrinks, etc. at a reasonable price?

Thanks.

Many of the Honda accessories manuals have instructions in disassembling parts of the interior. Go to the H and A website and download the instructions for the DVD player and rear camera. The dash opens easily. The door sills just pop up.

For miscellaneous parts I like Parts Express. I have bought interconnects, wiring blocks, etc. on ebay too. A crimper for heavy wire is an unusual tool and not found at Home Depot or Radio Shack.

These guys never steer you wrong!!!! Focal are an excellent choice for the doors and I have them and definitely stand by them. enjoy

Many of the Honda accessories manuals have instructions in disassembling parts of the interior. Go to the H and A website and download the instructions for the DVD player and rear camera. The dash opens easily. The door sills just pop up.

For miscellaneous parts I like Parts Express. I have bought interconnects, wiring blocks, etc. on ebay too. A crimper for heavy wire is an unusual tool and not found at Home Depot or Radio Shack.If you ordered from Crutchfield then all the info you need as far as disassembly is available from them.

Very true.....But just in case they don't have what you want - most of the instructions are available for download.

FWIW - I DID buy my headunit from Crutchfield so I had the wiring harness and the dash kit (crappy American International). I think very highly of Crutchfield.

Thanks for the Focal feedback. I knew Focal was overall a better brand but since the Polk mm6501 series is their mid line and the Focal 165A1 series is there entry level, I was just wondering if the Focal was still better. I paid the same for each set so it's a wash which one I keep.

As I tried to start Phase 1 of my project, I am starting to buy all the miscellaneous parts for install and quickly realized there are so many little things I don't know and not found on the forum.

Questions - when buying speaker wires, does it matter if I use 16 or 14 gauge? Does the brand matter or does the GE brand I picked up from Home Depot suffice?

Are you suppose to solder the wire directly onto the speakers or use slide quick connects?

Also the cross over for the component speakers, I saw some people hang the cross over on the inside of the door - does that mean drilling holes in the metal panel to hang it? I have seen some put it on the inside of the handle rest, do you double tape that or drill holes through the plastic (I don't want it to look bad).

When running a new wire into the tweeter compartment from the door, do I need to remove the entire dash or removing the face panel on the dash suffice? Never mind... figured this one out. For those interested, the answer is no, one can string a wire all the way down without removing the top dash.

Sorry for all these stupid questions as once again, I am a newbie and I spent many hours searching but seem to be missing some info still.

I am determined to get this project done and would greatly appreciate any continued support you guys can provide. You guys have been very kind and generous with your recommendation and I truly appreciate it.

Thanks.

Thanks for the Focal feedback. I knew Focal was overall a better brand but since the Polk mm6501 series is their mid line and the Focal 165A1 series is there entry level, I was just wondering if the Focal was still better. I paid the same for each set so it's a wash which one I keep.

As I tried to start Phase 1 of my project, I am starting to buy all the miscellaneous parts for install and quickly realized there are so many little things I don't know and not found on the forum.

Questions - when buying speaker wires, does it matter if I use 16 or 14 gauge? Does the brand matter or does the GE brand I picked up from Home Depot suffice?

Are you suppose to solder the wire directly onto the speakers or use slide quick connects?

Also the cross over for the component speakers, I saw some people hang the cross over on the inside of the door - does that mean drilling holes in the metal panel to hang it? I have seen some put it on the inside of the handle rest, do you double tape that or drill holes through the plastic (I don't want it to look bad).

When running a new wire into the tweeter compartment from the door, do I need to remove the entire dash or removing the face panel on the dash suffice? Never mind... figured this one out. For those interested, the answer is no, one can string a wire all the way down without removing the top dash.

Sorry for all these stupid questions as once again, I am a newbie and I spent many hours searching but seem to be missing some info still.

I am determined to get this project done and would greatly appreciate any continued support you guys can provide. You guys have been very kind and generous with your recommendation and I truly appreciate it.

Thanks.

Brand of speaker wire really doesn't matter. 16 ga. is sufficient for the lengths typically run in a car. I might choose 14 but 16 is also a bit thinner and easier to handle.

I normally solder wires to speakers. The connection is very solid and will not come loose over time. But you can use the female end of blade connectors. Sometimes speakers use narrow blades though and the connectors are not quite as common.

As for crossovers - there good reasons to mount them in the door - and good reasons not to. Reasons for - run only one wire into the doors or use existing wiring. Reasons against - screws, double sided tape, can't adjust without taking the door panel off. Some of this might depend on where you mount the tweeters.

These guys never steer you wrong!!!! Focal are an excellent choice for the doors and I have them and definitely stand by them. enjoy

You can say that again.. finally had it installed - the focals. Man oh man... they sound good. Even just off the head unit.

Guys,

I am in middle of my installing subwoofer and amp. I have removed the seat, installed my behind the seat eD subwoofer.

I have a basic question I can't seem to find an answer for. I have searched many hours for the answer.

What is the best way to hang and amplifer from the back wall of the truck? I need to hang it on the right side of the rear wall. I have seen a lot of pictures of beautiful amps installed at the location.

Do I drill new holes through the sheet metal (makes me nervous)?
Do I use self taping sheet metal screws to hang the amp or do I user bolt and nuts?
Should I install the amp directly on the metal?
Should I put a piece of wood as a backing?


Any feedback anyone can give would.

Never mind, found the discussion threads I needed by using keyword, "Mount amp". Thank you everyone for posting previously.

For my amp I mounted a painted piece of plywood, then mounted my electronics to the wood.

The board was mounted to the interior using long sheet metal screws (I think #12) through nylon standoffs. I did not use self tapping screws though that should work too.

For my amp I mounted a painted piece of plywood, then mounted my electronics to the wood.

The board was mounted to the interior using long sheet metal screws (I think #12) through nylon standoffs. I did not use self tapping screws though that should work too.

Thank you Hoffman, I opted not to drill new holes so I used creative means of using the strut brace, existing bolts, and screw holes to build connection points for my amplifier board (1/2" plywood). It took a very look time and a lot of effort but I was able to do it without any drilling.

Thank you Hoffman, I opted not to drill new holes so I used creative means of using the strut brace, existing bolts, and screw holes to build connection points for my amplifier board (1/2" plywood). It took a very look time and a lot of effort but I was able to do it without any drilling.

Are you taking any pics for our enjoyment?