Rubber Boot and White connectors

Help.... I am in the middle of my install and I got stuck.

I finally got the wires through my front passenger door. In the process, I removed the rubber boots to get the wire through. Now I can't get the rubber boot over the white connector.

Can someone please provide some suggestion on how to remove the white connector? I saw Bginvestor picture there is 4 tabs, but I can't reach it. I saw another post where someone just forcefully pryed the thing off and messed the white connector up.

Is there a way to remove the white connector without messing it up?

Please help

Without fully understanding your situation, can you cut the rubber boot and then tape it? Is the boot used to protect the wires from the sharp edges of the metal hole they are passing through?

Without fully understanding your situation, can you cut the rubber boot and then tape it? Is the boot used to protect the wires from the sharp edges of the metal hole they are passing through?

Sorry...let me see if I can include more details.

This is the rubber boot that runs between the door and the cabin. It protects the wires from the element. The connection where the rubber boots connects to the cabin, it slides over a white connector which in turns snaps to the cabin side. It is impossible to slide the rubber over the white connector.

I know if I can remove the white connector, I can get the rubber boot back on. Then snap the connector back.

Help.

I definitely don't wnat to cut the rubber boots and retape it.

It's been a long time since I did my installation, so I'm not sure what you're talking about.

I do not remember a "white connector" in the passenger door. There is a white molex-type connector in the driver's door with about a dozen wires going through it. There may be a similar one on the passenger door but I don't remember one. Mine is also a 2006 and things may have changed.

The driver's door molex is held into the door with a flimsy brittle snap clip. Removing the clip allows the connector to be removed. I broke the clip and used a large tie-wrap to hold the boot on.

But that's not what you were asking. You need to know how to get the boot over the connector. The boot has a ring around the inside which hooks into the connector. Spray some silicone lube around the inside of the boot, and while pushing on the connector from inside the door, slide the boot over the connector. If you don't have any silicone lube, take a time out and go get some. You will use it throughout your installation.

Sorry I can't be of more help. Well done, shovelhd

It's been a long time since I did my installation, so I'm not sure what you're talking about.

I do not remember a "white connector" in the passenger door. There is a white molex-type connector in the driver's door with about a dozen wires going through it. There may be a similar one on the passenger door but I don't remember one. Mine is also a 2006 and things may have changed.

The driver's door molex is held into the door with a flimsy brittle snap clip. Removing the clip allows the connector to be removed. I broke the clip and used a large tie-wrap to hold the boot on.

But that's not what you were asking. You need to know how to get the boot over the connector. The boot has a ring around the inside which hooks into the connector. Spray some silicone lube around the inside of the boot, and while pushing on the connector from inside the door, slide the boot over the connector. If you don't have any silicone lube, take a time out and go get some. You will use it throughout your installation.

Thank you ShovelHD, the "white connector" is what you refer to as the "ring". I finally got it (before I read your silicon lube)... but my goodness... I am definitely going to go get a silicon spray and use your approach next time and the rest of the project. Took me 2 hours to get that boot back around the "ring". Damn and this is only the passenger door side.

For the benefit of others. Here is the approach I took. I noticed that in Bginvestor's picture that there were for tabs on the ring (attached is his picture). I also notice there were 4 holes. What I did was take cloth hanger wires, 4 pieces and bent them and shoved them into the hole, this released the "white ring" which gave me 1/4" more room to play with after I slide the ring out. Since I have small fingers, I was able to reach in there and pulled and tug at the rubber boot. Finally, my beautiful wife took pity on me and as she had smaller long fingers. Between the two of us, we finally got it in. It was a pain!!

Now that I am beginning to think... hmm... should I get a professional installer to do the rest of my install? Head unit, amps, etc. The thing is I just don't trust some installers to do the superb job as each of us are doing.

Thank you Shovelhd, I will definitely use your approach next time as mine was entirely too painful.

I did my install a long time ago and do not remember any difficulty at all with the passenger door. I ran two pairs of 16 ga into the door. I don't remember that white ring at all - but it could be because of my (lack of) memory!

The driver's door is an entirely new level of difficulty.

I suggest wire lube instead of a silicone lube. Wire lube (Home Depot or Lowes) is "goopier" and doesn't leave an oily residue. Kinda reminds me of other....uh....water based....lubes.

I did my install a long time ago and do not remember any difficulty at all with the passenger door. I ran two pairs of 16 ga into the door. I don't remember that white ring at all - but it could be because of my (lack of) memory!

The driver's door is an entirely new level of difficulty.

I suggest wire lube instead of a silicone lube. Wire lube (Home Depot or Lowes) is "goopier" and doesn't leave an oily residue. Kinda reminds me of other....uh....water based....lubes.

Hoffman, did you put the wire lube right on the cable and strung it through the rubber boot without disconnecting the rubber boot? Maybe that's the secret.

What challenges should I expect for the front driver side? Besides the molex connector that I have seen. I maybe leaning towards cutting the molex via dremel like some people did. Any comments?

Hoffman, did you put the wire lube right on the cable and strung it through the rubber boot without disconnecting the rubber boot? Maybe that's the secret.

What challenges should I expect for the front driver side? Besides the molex connector that I have seen. I maybe leaning towards cutting the molex via dremel like some people did. Any comments?

My memory is vague....(sorry!) but I think I left the boot intact on the car frame side but popped it loose on the door side. Or was it the other way around?

I remember with certainty though it was a piece of cake compared to the driver's side door.

For the driver's side:

I did not modify the molex. Instead I used a Dremel with a cutting disk to cut a slot in the metal adjacent to the molex. The slot was big enough to run two pairs of 16 ga. speaker wire, but narrow enough to be covered by the rubber boot when it was snapped back in place.

I did the opposite. I drilled out an unused section of the molex and ran one speaker cable through it.

Thank you Guys.

I finally got one speaker (Focals) in the front passenger and tried it off the head unit. Sure enough it was night and day difference in sound.

I did the opposite. I drilled out an unused section of the molex and ran one speaker cable through it.

You had more courage than me. I figured if I screw up the molex it is a nasty part to replace and I would have to re-connect a dozen+ wires.

I bet yours went faster than mine....

Ooooooooooh no it didn't. I probably spent 3 hours on that door alone.