Little help with wiring Head Unit

I started my Kendwood HU DNX-5120 install this afternoon and hope to finish by tomorrow. I got stuck on a couple of things. I would greatly appreciate some input.

1) The AI Dash kit, it looks like only 4 screws total will fit for the DNX-5120... the bottom 4 holes plate were too thick and my Kenwood screws were not long enough. Is it would be sufficient to hold the expensive HU with just 4 screws?

2) Is it correct for the AI Dash Kit, I have to cut away the back to allow the unit to slide all the way through

3) On the Metra Harness, there were a orange wire - illumination, and a orange/white wire - dimmer. Is it correct that I should connect the kenwood "dimmer/illum" wire to the metra's orange/white wire - dimmer ONLY and NOT the ornage - illumination wire?

4) On the SWI - JACK, should the resistor value to use 5100 ohms? I read that on a review in Crutchfield site. Is this correct?

5) Lastly, to tap into the remote control streering wheel buttons, I understand it's pin three which is the "green / red" wire. Question - do I actually cut the wire on the truck harness to tap it? I hate to do that as it is messing around with the factory harness. Metra did NOT have a pin 3 on their mating harness - Bummer.

Thanks.

Wish I could help you, but have nothing but a question. AI dash kit, is that American International? Where did you get that? Cant find on ebay and from what I have seen in pics that is the best looking one. I have a new head unit to install and am waiting to find that dash kit. Not to mention I would have to get out the plow for a day to start the project.

Never mind. Did a google search saw pictures and have found some on ebay. Good luck with your install. Sorry I have been no help at all.

I started my Kendwood HU DNX-5120 install this afternoon and hope to finish by tomorrow. I got stuck on a couple of things. I would greatly appreciate some input.

1) The AI Dash kit, it looks like only 4 screws total will fit for the DNX-5120... the bottom 4 holes plate were too thick and my Kenwood screws were not long enough. Is it would be sufficient to hold the expensive HU with just 4 screws?

2) Is it correct for the AI Dash Kit, I have to cut away the back to allow the unit to slide all the way through

3) On the Metra Harness, there were a orange wire - illumination, and a orange/white wire - dimmer. Is it correct that I should connect the kenwood "dimmer/illum" wire to the metra's orange/white wire - dimmer ONLY and NOT the ornage - illumination wire?

4) On the SWI - JACK, should the resistor value to use 5100 ohms? I read that on a review in Crutchfield site. Is this correct?

5) Lastly, to tap into the remote control streering wheel buttons, I understand it's pin three which is the "green / red" wire. Question - do I actually cut the wire on the truck harness to tap it? I hate to do that as it is messing around with the factory harness. Metra did NOT have a pin 3 on their mating harness - Bummer.

Thanks.

I really wish you would have kept all of your questions in one thread instead of starting a new thread every time you have a question.

There should be five screws for the AI kit unless you cut the bottom flange off. I used longer screws and washers since I like a better fit.

You shouldn't have to cut anything with this kit.

I don't use the dimmer wire. I keep the HU brightness at full all the time. My choice.

You have to experiment with the resistor value. I used 5100 ohms. It's easy to experiment when the system is out.

You can cut the harness wire or tap it. I chose to use a butt splice and tap it that way.

Sorry ShovelHd about the new thread. I didn't realized the etiquette. From here on out I will use the old threads I have started.

Thanks for the help.

For those of you having problems with the PAC SWI JACK wiring, I figured it out that you must hook up pin #11 brown from your car wiring harness to the ground or else it will NOT work. The PAC instruction was not super clear on this point. Since the Metra wiring harness did not have wires for either pin #3 or pin #11, I had to splice the original factory wiring harness. It always makes me a little bit nervous cutting into the factor wiring harness, but it worked.

Also, the 5100 ohms resistor was needed for the mode button to work. There is a slight lag time on the buttons volume but I think I can live with it.

For those who may be super interested, here are voltage across pin #3 and ground when the button is pushed.

At rest: 4.79 volts
Vol up: 2.608 v
Vol down: 1.183 v
Mode: 4.55 v
Channel up: 4.15 v
Channel down: 3.505

Hope this will help the next person.