A New Billet Oil Filter for the life of your Ridgeline

I just got back from the Off Road Expo and found an oil filter that will last the life of our trucks! It filters 850% more effective than the stock filter and is reusable. Check um out at www.ultraoilfilters.com

Part number# ULT578 Honda Ridgeline

ULTRAFILTER Oil Systems offer you the protection and control you deserve for your vehicle. ULTRAFILTER”S revolutionary design is made with T304 stainless steel media allowing it to be re-usable and cleanable. The Billet aluminum exterior gives a polished appearance to your motor. With ULTRAFILTER oil changes can be extended to every 7,500 miles and 10,000 with synthetic oil. This will save you time. energy and, most importantly, money. Every ULTRAFILTER comes with our XK5 SUPER BLUE cleaning solution to make cleaning your filter simple. Just wash, rinse, dry and re-install for 7500 more miles of trouble free oil filtration. Most oil filters filter about 66% of the oil over a 3000 mile interval. The ULTRAFILTER, filters 100% of your oil 100% of the time. This called “one pass” technology. This means with ULTRAFILTER every drop of your oil is filtered. A standard paper oil filter has a BYPASS valve. Its simple BYPASS means unfiltered oil. A vehicle idles at approximately 11 pounds of pressure in the oil filter. Most BYPASS valves open around 12-13 pounds of pressure, This meaning that as soon as the throttle is pressed the BYPASS valve opens and your oil is no longer being filtered. With all of the performance upgrades available for vehicles and engines today, as well as the money spent on purchasing these upgrades, don’t forget the lifeline of your motor. The oil and filter are the blood stream of your vehicles performance capabilities. :D
Ron

I checked the dealers for this product and they are all $99.95 (list $159)

I checked the dealers for this product and they are all $99.95 (list $159)

I have to agree, the price is very steep for an oil filter! However, considering the cost of billet aluminum, the machining cycle time involved plus the current additional cost to clear coat our billet door sill project, I felt that this product was well worth the price. When I learned how much better this unit filters the engine oil and the fact that it can be reused for the life of the vehicle, I ordered it. If you get a chance to see this unit and hold it in your hands and see the craftsmanship with your own eyes, you may begin to overlook the high price, just like we did when I bought our Ridgeline in the first place. It’s still way cheaper than the OEM plastic door protectors I wanted for our truck! To put it in perspective, I chose the price of a lifetime oil filtration unit over the price of the gold tailgate emblems. :D

Ron

Every ULTRAFILTER comes with our XK5 SUPER BLUE cleaning solution to make cleaning your filter simple. Just wash, rinse, dry and re-install for 7500 more miles of trouble free oil filtration.
Interesting, and worthy of further research.

I can find no price for the cleaning solution. Does anyone here know its price? Can something else be used to clean the filters? Thanks!

I wonder what happens when the filter gets really dirty, like when you do a great deal of travel on dusty dirt roads. With no bypass wouldn't the engine be oil starved? Am I missing something?

I wonder what happens when the filter gets really dirty, like when you do a great deal of travel on dusty dirt roads. With no bypass wouldn't the engine be oil starved? Am I missing something?If the filter clogs, then you'll be in trouble. I'm sticking with a Honda (or equivalent type) filter.

There have been independent studies on 100% filters and they have found that the oil never needs changing. Only topped off and cleaning/changing of the filter. With 100% of the oil going through the filter all of the contaminates are removed leaving the oil clean and like new. Some of these studies were done on New York taxi cabs and none failed.

What is going on with the idea of 3k oil changes? My vehicle prior to the Ridgeline was a '97 Range Rover. I was a little taken a back to be advised to change the oil every 3000 miles, when in the UK the interval is 10000. Same goes for the Honda. The Ridgeline isn't available in the UK, but a comparison between the UK Civic 1.6 and US Civic 1.6 shows recommendations of 12k and 5k respectively. They both have the same spec engine. Some UK Honda models have a 20k oil change interval. So what gives? I can't believe that US driving styles are 2 times more punishing on an engine than the UK. Ok, it's hotter here for longer, and also colder for longer too, but driving in the UK is much more stop-start and higher revving due to predominantly being stick shift, plus UK (and European) drivers tend to be more agressive.

Is there a conspiracy between the US auto industry and oil manufacturers?

There have been independent studies on 100% filters and they have found that the oil never needs changing. Only topped off and cleaning/changing of the filter. With 100% of the oil going through the filter all of the contaminates are removed leaving the oil clean and like new. Some of these studies were done on New York taxi cabs and none failed.

I guess no one in that study tested the oil's pH over time. You do know that conventional oils drop pH over time due to absorbion of combustion byproducts. Can you say "acid bath" Pure synthetic oils have an advantage here, otherwise just change the oil like your Father taught you to.

What is going on with the idea of 3k oil changes? My vehicle prior to the Ridgeline was a '97 Range Rover. I was a little taken a back to be advised to change the oil every 3000 miles, when in the UK the interval is 10000. Same goes for the Honda. The Ridgeline isn't available in the UK, but a comparison between the UK Civic 1.6 and US Civic 1.6 shows recommendations of 12k and 5k respectively. They both have the same spec engine. Some UK Honda models have a 20k oil change interval. So what gives? I can't believe that US driving styles are 2 times more punishing on an engine than the UK. Ok, it's hotter here for longer, and also colder for longer too, but driving in the UK is much more stop-start and higher revving due to predominantly being stick shift, plus UK (and European) drivers tend to be more agressive.

Joe


Is there a conspiracy between the US auto industry and oil manufacturers?


I dont know either Linger_I. I read all these good posts on best oil and filters to use and oil change intervals. Then I make up my mind what schedule I'm going to use and then another post comes out with something thats supposed to be better. Then I have doubts about filters/oil and intervals again. One thing is for sure, we get alot of excellent ideas and opinions here but try to pick one. :confused:

I'm just going to use Hal (engine oil life monitor) and years of past experiences for oil change intervals and maybe use Mobil 1 synthetic and Honda's stock or Purolator/Wix filters. Everyone has different opinions and (most) seem to be as good as others. I just get more and more confused. I have used standard maintenance practicses on many cars from the 60's untill now, many of them customized racing engines and never lost an engine yet.

Besides, any good maintenace practice should get you 200,000 - 250,000 or probably a lot more miles on the engine. I'll need a new chassis and seats by that time. :)

I guess no one in that study tested the oil's pH over time. You do know that conventional oils drop pH over time due to absorbion of combustion byproducts. Can you say "acid bath" Pure synthetic oils have an advantage here, otherwise just change the oil like your Father taught you to.

The filters used in those studies were not like your conventional oil filter. After 100,000 miles the oil looked as clean as it did when it went in. Its the byproducts you reference that make the oil black.

The filters used in those studies were not like your conventional oil filter. After 100,000 miles the oil looked as clean as it did when it went in. Its the byproducts you reference that make the oil black.

uh Huh. Ok, whatever you want to do with your RL is fine. The oil may look clean, but the acidity can't be "filtered" out without being neutralized with the addition of a stronger "base" additive or just changed.

If you ever had seen the main bearings or crank on an engine treated with such neglect, you would have thought there were some worms eating away at the bearing surfaces.

The billet filter looks kewl and I would actually be interested in it if it used standard filters--two at a time. Folks, don't run your oil changes that long.

Both my MGA and my Sprite came stock with cartridge filters. I've converted over to cartridge. Why? Change a cartridge filter once and you'll know. What a mess. Granted, these billet filter housing are considerably better that the old Puralator design. Let us know how easy the change is once you're done.

Both my MGA and my Sprite came stock with cartridge filters. I've converted over to cartridge. Why? Change a cartridge filter once and you'll know. What a mess. Granted, these billet filter housing are considerably better that the old Puralator design. Let us know how easy the change is once you're done.

Hi Spritegeezer,

I know what you mean! If the Filter is mounted to the engine block at an angle, during the filter change-out, the oil spills all over the suspension components and everything below! Yuk! That’s why the race trucks all have them mounted upright on the firewall or remotely to the frame. I’ll have to take a look and see where it mounts on the Ridgeline engine block. My dad used to use a piece of cardboard bent so the oil would run off into his drip pan on my moms Toyota. By looking at their web site, it appears that you unscrew the outer housing and the stainless filter remains attached to the block, after dumping the canister you then remove and clean the filter. Personally, I would be cleaning the stainless filter after every oil change rather than wait for the recommended 7000 miles. Just for the peace of mind. I was also considering using a non-dino oil this time. As you well know, Racecars, Trucks & motorcycles have their engines gone though after every race. They are however stressed much harder than the normal street driven units. I let you all know the outcome. :D
Ron

That is a pretty cool looking unit. I would be interested to see how hard/easy it is to clean, etc., also.

I dunno about anybody else, but I learned a long time ago, to change the oil at the recommended intervals, or less. It's the cheapest and most effective maintenience you can do for your vehicle. I ran a '76 Olds Cutlass (With the 350 "Rocket" V-8 and "Rocket" tranny) to over 180,000 miles and never had one problem with that engine. Granted I had to do periferials like water pumps, alternators, and that kinda thing, but that engine was rock solid and the oild was never more than 3 or 4 oz. below the full line when I changed the oil.....religiously at 3K.

If I use conventional oil, I change the oil AND the filter every 3000 to 3500 miles. If I use synthetic, it's 4500 to 5000 miles. I know they say you CAN go 5000 miles on conventional and 7500+ on synthetic, but why take the chance? I mean, for around $20, you can have your oil/filter changed for you. What a deal.

Anyway, the way I look at it is, yeah, you can gamble a bit and try to "stetch" your oil life....but why take the chance... it makes no sense.

Hi cdepuyd, I agree changing the engine oil is very cheap peace of mind. After further research asking a few friends in the off road racing industries, we found that these units are designed primarily for racing engines. They are like billet jewelry when held in your hand. You also need to stock the XK5 Super Blue Cleaning Solvent for the next change. However, the 10 to 20 micron contaminant trap was the same as the K&N Performance Gold Oil Filter as was the 12-16 gpm. Low pressure flow.

A micron is one thousandth of a millimeter. That’s approx. .00003937 inches. 35 microns is about .00138“, (just over one-thousandth of an inch). The lower limit of visibility to the human eye is about 40 microns. Pollens range from about 30 to 50 microns. A white blood cell is about 25 microns.

On the plus side for my change in oil filter choice;

• Drilled safety wire holes for racing
• Sturdy 1" wrench nut makes removal quick and easy
• Heavy-duty construction
• Resin-impregnated filter media provides maximum filtering surface for contaminant removal
• Anti-drainback valve (where applicable) eliminates dry starts, prevents oil from draining back into crankcase during engine shutdown
• Internally lubricated gasket provides positive seal while allowing easy on and off of filter
• Rolled threads provide extra protection against stripping

And the best part is the K&N unit was a bargain at only $11.99 as opposed to the $105.00 for the billet Ultra-Filter unit. Hope this helps. :p
Ron

I'll change my oil @ 3500 miles no matter what

I have to agree, the price is very steep for an oil filter! However, considering the cost of billet aluminum, the machining cycle time involved plus the current additional cost to clear coat our billet door sill project, I felt that this product was well worth the price. When I learned how much better this unit filters the engine oil and the fact that it can be reused for the life of the vehicle, I ordered it. If you get a chance to see this unit and hold it in your hands and see the craftsmanship with your own eyes, you may begin to overlook the high price, just like we did when I bought our Ridgeline in the first place. It’s still way cheaper than the OEM plastic door protectors I wanted for our truck! To put it in perspective, I chose the price of a lifetime oil filtration unit over the price of the gold tailgate emblems. :D

Ron

I LIKE IT! :cool:

I have to say one thing, this Ultra Filter does not have a PRV valve, or bypass
valve to meet the OEM specs, and any filter used on a Honda needs this valving. If anyone follows Off-Road Racing ,Honda factory Ridgeline raced the Baja 1000 and it used Pure Power! Lifetime Oil Filters, that is the company that started making lifetime filters before these Knock-Offs came along.
The factory Ridgeline for Baja 1000 can be seen on on SEMA photos,Baja 1000photos, and Best in the Desert Racing photos,it will now go to Honda Motors
America for shows.
Buyer beware ! of Knock-offs

I guess this is the company...

http://www.gopurepower.com/

There have been independent studies on 100% filters and they have found that the oil never needs changing. Only topped off and cleaning/changing of the filter. With 100% of the oil going through the filter all of the contaminates are removed leaving the oil clean and like new. Some of these studies were done on New York taxi cabs and none failed.

I think that the base of a motor oil is viable for much longer than the average oil change interval. However as others point out, this isn't the issue. Viscosity remains acceptable long after it's expiration, it is the additives that break down and wear away over time. Things such as rust and foam inhibitors don't have a limitless lifespan.

That said......

I owned a Toyota Pickup with an R-22 4 Cylinder engine and a cabeuretor. It was 4x4 regular cab, regular bed. The truck averaged about 25k miles per year for the first 10 years of it's life. The average oil change interval was 30k miles.

It wan't even a 12 month ritual to change the oil. It was checked frequently and it hardly ever needed to be topped off. In fact over the course of the intervals little more than an ounce or two were added for good measure.

This was a company truck and then later my personal rig.

While I am meticulous about frequent oil changes, the truck still remains in the family today after 8 years and it runs like a top. No major issues ever related to the engine or drivetrain.

I wouldn't try that with a Ranger or Colorado pickup.

I think that the base of a motor oil is viable for much longer than the average oil change interval. However as others point out, this isn't the issue. Viscosity remains acceptable long after it's expiration, it is the additives that break down and wear away over time. Things such as rust and foam inhibitors don't have a limitless lifespan.

That said......

I owned a Toyota Pickup with an R-22 4 Cylinder engine and a cabeuretor. It was 4x4 regular cab, regular bed. The truck averaged about 25k miles per year for the first 10 years of it's life. The average oil change interval was 30k miles.

It wan't even a 12 month ritual to change the oil. It was checked frequently and it hardly ever needed to be topped off. In fact over the course of the intervals little more than an ounce or two were added for good measure.

This was a company truck and then later my personal rig.

While I am meticulous about frequent oil changes, the truck still remains in the family today after 8 years and it runs like a top. No major issues ever related to the engine or drivetrain.

I wouldn't try that with a Ranger or Colorado pickup.

Isn't that the same Toyota truck that you see in every movie of some war torn country where there are 4 guys riding in the bed carrying machine guns and the truck looks like its been to hell and back? One such movie is Blackhawk Down. Those trucks are indestructable.

well, if you think about it...let see: Mobile 1 Oil Filter roughly cost $12.00 ea. now if we all do oil change for every 7000miles..after 10 changes, it will pay for it self once you hit roughly 70,000 miles give or take. Consdering..that's pretty cheap!!

well, if you think about it...let see: Mobile 1 Oil Filter roughly cost $12.00 ea. now if we all do oil change for every 7000miles..after 10 changes, it will pay for it self once you hit roughly 70,000 miles give or take. Consdering..that's pretty cheap!!

I could see your point if you put a lot of miles on a vehicle per year..But I don't . If you only put 12,000-15,000 miles per year, that would be 2-3 oil & filter changes per year. Ten oil changes would take 4-5 years...I doubt it would be worth the initial cost since most people don't keep a vehicle much longer than that..If that long.

If you use the Supertech oil filter, cost $2.06. You could buy about 50 of them. If normal oil change is at 7,000 miles, you would have to reach 350,000 miles to break even.

I am not in any way slamming the product..It's just not for me.