I've studied the manual, searched these forums, and cannot for the life of me find the recommended oil change intervals for this beast. All I have found is references to the % display, which I suppose I could use to extrapolate the data but...

Can anyone tell me: what does Honda recommend for regular-duty and harsh-duty oil change intervals? :confused:

The sales person told me 10,000 miles if you use synthetic oil. However that seems way too high. I talked with the service superviser and he advised that the oil life % will tell you when to change and it depends on your driving coditions. However he recommeded to change it 5,000 even if you still have plenty of oil life on the computer. However the manual says that you dont need to change it until the service light comes on at 15% oil life and its not good to change it when its not needed. So I'm also confused also on what to do. ANy thought form anyone else.

I love it RTL/Sunroof with running boards, fog lights, spash gaurds and bed extender.

I find it strange the manual would say it's not good to change the oil too early. 10,000 miles is the interval for absolutely perfect conditions, which no one drives in. I read in the "Idiots Guide to Car Care" that 3,000-5,000 is a good range for oil change intervals. Oh, and it's also a good idea to leave the original oil in as long as possible because it's especially made for the break-in period. This is probably the oil they're talking about that you shouldn't change too early.

Oil and oil changing seems to be a much debated topic and I'm sure there are many others who will chime in on this. Don't be afraid to ask your service provider more questions.

Yes you are right about waiting as long as possible before changing the oil for the first time and thats what the manuel says. But do you think I should wait the first oil change until the computer say 15% oil life left even if its way past the 5,000 miles. (Right now I'm at 200 miles and it says 100% oil life left) Any comments they said its the same system computer system as the 2005 Oddysee. If any 2005 Oddysee owners out there plese advise how many miles you get before it says to change the oil. Thanks in advance.

The service provider says he recommends 3,000 to 5,000 even if the oil life says 50% oil life left. (Dont know if the service garage is just trying to make extra money with the service) I usually change it on my other cars at 4,000 miles but I dont want to change it if it doesn't do any good to change it. That just adds cost to ownership.

This is probably one of the most debated subjects on car forums and one of my favorites. Indeed the manual says not to change out the oil early. Does Honda actually have special break-oil installed with more moly so you'd want to keep it in? I've yet to find any confirmation one way or the other on that.

Dealers do make most of their money off service visits so they'd much rather have you in sooner than later. The oil interval indicator system takes into account many varaibles like rmp, hot/cold starts and milage to come up with an interval when your oil should be changed. It's really good and probably the best way to know when it's time to change. It can't take into account extreme situations like driving on really dusty roads so if you do alot of that you'll want to change it sooner.

Modern cars have typical intervals from 7,500 to 15,000 miles. The '05 Ody under normal driving conditions will work out to about 7,500 miles between changes. My ML 430 would do it at 15,000.

Like my '05 Ody I'll change the factory oil when it say 5% and then I'll put in Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 and their new EP filter too when it comes out in June. Why not 5W-20 like the manual recommends? well that's a whole other discussion. Basically convinced Honda and a few other manufactures switched from 5-30 to a 5-20 recommendation to qualify for government CAFE ratings to save money.

Don't take my word for it though, do you're own research and draw your own conclusions. A good place to start is this forum on bobistheoilguy. Serious gearheads over there with a variety of opinions. Try using their search tool in the "Car and Truck Gas Engine Oil" thread and search on HONDA or CAFE to save time and learn more.


http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

This is probably one of the most debated subjects on car forums and one of my favorites. Indeed the manual says not to change out the oil early. Does Honda actually have special break-oil installed with more moly so you'd want to keep it in? I've yet to find any confirmation one way or the other on that...Well I guess the definitive answer from Honda remains elusive! Only the on-board computer knows! Hello HAL do you read me? :D

I don't have the manual in front of me, but it seemed to say this Vertrkr in no uncertain terms (that there was special break-in oil installed so don't change it til the computer sez so).

But long term I think it's VERY ODD that Honda would leave this question to the onboard computer. You'd think at least there would be a "normal driving" vs. "harsh environment" setting. I live in the extreme country w/lots of dirt roads...

I guess I should add that we have a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee which counts-down "miles to service" (vs. Honda's "% life") and its on-board computer lets you tell it what "miles to service" to count. I think ours is set at 2500.

I love the Honda maintenance minder because it takes all of your driving conditions, total miles, etc into account. You don't have to worry about it, just change it when it says to.

If you look at the manual it says it has different code numbers that coincide with various other items such as tire rotation, etc.

Hello people, new mbr here. doing some research prior to purchase RL. Since i don't have an RL yet, i will use my experience to what i have. I own a 99' VW passat GLS 1.8t chipped w/ stage 3 turbo. well i used Lubro moly voll-syntesis 5w-40 to change my oil, in winter months i usually change my oil @ 5k miles and summer months i change the oil @ 3.5k miles. I live in SoCal in the desert so it really gets dusty and really hot in the summer so the engine works harder. If the specs are right for the RL after the break in period, oil change interval should be the same depending the eviroment you live in and how much you push your RL or vehicle.

The more general question here is, why didn't Honda include a maintenance schedule/matrix/grid with the vehicle? I understand that the computer is more accurate, but I'd like to know when to expect service items to be due, since I plan on doing my own service. For example, the differential lube on the Pilot needs changing every 15K miles. Is this the same on the Ridgeline?

I was able to spend alot of time talking to the master tech at my Honda dealship while diagnosising a wind noise problem,we talk about this very subgect. He recomended waiting the full 7500 miles before the 1st oil change because Honda has infomed them of a speacial oil that is put in the cars and now trucks at the factory . He has looked at this oil and has not seen or felt any differance. But Honda claims it specally desgined to remove metal particals that occour at break in. In the old days this was the very reason we would change the "break in oil" at 500 miles.This is confusing.

...the master tech...recomended waiting the full 7500 miles...Seventy-five hundred miles between oil changes! Good grief!

While I will not dispute leaving the "special oil" in for that period, I can't imagine waiting that long under "normal circumstances" especially since "normal circumstances" for me are extremely dusty & dirty.

Still amazes me that no one seems to be able to find any documentation on this mileage interval. It's all a secret, in the computer!

My dealer said 5,000 miles for the first oil change when I picked up my RTL on Saturday. Since they're paying for it (a buyer's service they provide) I'll take their word for it.

So far I've got 600 miles, and the oil monitor says 90% life left. I'm hoping it will wind up saying change it at about 5 or 7000 miles. I don't understand why one service guy is saying 5,000 and the other is saying 7,500?????

So far I've got 600 miles, and the oil monitor says 90% life left. I'm hoping it will wind up saying change it at about 5 or 7000 miles. I don't understand why one service guy is saying 5,000 and the other is saying 7,500?????

Easily explained, sales people don't know their cars that well. They typically go with party line of the dealership and that's usually geared towards making the dealership money. They'd much rather have you in sooner which equates to more visits over time and more money. Stick with what the oil indicator says. Honda engineered their engines very carefully, they are certainly not going to have a system that lets the engine run oil that's past its life. Most new cars these days have OCIs (oil change interval) between 7,500 and 15,000 miles.

How does the oil change indicator work?

Is it smart? (oil temp, engine load, total revolutions, etc) or does it just look at milage?

How does the oil change indicator work?

Is it smart? (oil temp, engine load, total revolutions, etc) or does it just look at milage?

It's smart considering a variety of factors like those so it's best to trust it's algorithms I'd say.

The 7500 mile interval I posted earlier was based upon a recomendation given to me by the dealer when I pick up the Ridgeline . And that recomendation was based on the other Honda products ,(Pilot,element )

Hello all, I just bought my RTL S/R last week and had a few comments on this thread. I've been a member of the BMWM5 list for a couple of years (mine was a 2000 model). This exact topic (and the related what oil should I use) was really beaten to death. BMW uses multiple green, yellow and then red leds to tell you when to change your oil and other service related items. The same controversy "I'll never let my engine go that long on an interval". These ran from 8-15k miles depending on driving habits, etc. This is a $25k engine that the BMW wasn't recommending a 3k change interval. Big difference in original manufacture's oil (10-50 synthentic) but the point is that car makers know what is best and I just followed thier recommendation.

Honda's made it's reputation on reliability and I really doubt they'd use the 100%-0% on board computer just as a gimick. I'm willing to bet it works as advertised and is actually state of the art engine maintance management. I bet the new Acura RL has one.

For those gearheads without a life (like myself) the site is M5boards.com, just do a search and believe me you'll have about about 6 pages of pro and con discussion.

Cal

My sales person said the first oil change is at 3750. :confused:
I think I'll just trust the computer if it seems reasonable.

Doug

For those gearheads without a life (like myself) the site is M5boards.com, just do a search and believe me you'll have about about 6 pages of pro and con discussion.

Hey, that's me alright. I've mentioned this before but if you want to read more than 6 pages on the subject there's a great forum for just oil, I read it everyday along with the ROC:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=1;DaysPrune=1000

For me it's going to be Mobil 1 every 6,000 miles, give or take a few hundred. Why? It’s better than Dino oil and Mobil 1 is what works for me. Mobil 1 goes into everything I own, from my Honda lawn mower to my BMW K1200RS and all of the cars and trucks in-between.

I'm going to post some messages from postings I made on a different board. Since I may have been responding to questions they may seem a little strange, but I think the data is important.

This is a subject I love to discuss. I try and stick to the facts as much as possible... there are way toooo many old wives tales about oil and oil changes. The most important part of the oil change is the most often overlooked. There are many people who will use a great motor oil like Mobil 1 and then use a Fram oil filter. Very few people realize you would be better off with cheap oil and a good oil filter!

Anyway... here goes. Sorry for all the messages.

This message was in response to a person that was going to use Amsoil oil in their Acura MDX. The Ridgeline and MDX share a common engine and driveline (tuned differently of course).

OK I hate to open this can of worms again, but sometime it's necessary. I'll state up front that I am NOT a fan of Amsoil or any other company that makes snake oil claims.

The Acura MDX Owners Manual clearly states what oil you should use. One of the requirements is that the oil be API Certified. API is the American Petroleum Institute and they are an independent organization that tests motor oils among other things.

I am NOT an expert on the Amsoil product line, but they appear to make two different synthetic oil products that could be used in the MDX. The first is the standard Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil, and the second is Amsoil XL-7500 Synthetic Motor Oil. I beleive the XL-7500 used to be a synthetic blend, but since the Castrol lawsuit anyone can clam some Group III base stock's as "synthetic" even though they're not.

Back to the point. The XL-7500 product is API Certified, but is probably not a true synthetic. The traditional Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil is NOT API Certified and the package appears to be intentionally misleading to me.

It is my opinion that Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil does not meet the warranty requirements as defined by Acura. Of course Amsoil claims that they will back up any engine problems caused by their products. What's the diff? With the Acura warranty you are covered by federal law (Magnuson-Moss Act) and the burden of proof is on Acura. With Amsoil you are not covered by the Act and the burden of proof is on YOU.

I'll post some examples in the next couple of messages.

API Certifed starburst which is displayed on all certified products and required by Honda/Acura:

Amsoil XL-7500 product. Until the lawsuit I believe Amsoil called this a synthetic blend product... Group III and Group IV base stocks. Note API Certification starburst:

Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil. This is a true synthetic Group IV base stock product. Note deceptive attempt to replicate API Certification starburst. This product is NOT API Certified and not suitable for use in an MDX (Ridgeline) in my opinion:

Base stocks for motor oil.

Group I: No need to discuss these since they aren't used in current motor oils.

Group II: Most traditional (dino) motor oils on the market are Group II base stocks. Minimum requirements for motor oil.

Group III: It starts to get fuzzy here. Until a major lawsuit Group III base stocks were still considered dino. The lawsuit changed all that. A Group III base stock is a highly refined traditional dino hydrocarbon. In my opinion they are NOT synthetic since they are not chemically engineered, but the law says they can be called "synthetic blend" or "synthetic". Examples are Valvoline, and Castrol "synthetic" motor oils.

Group IV: My favorite! These are chemically engineered PAO's (Polyalphaolefins if you must know). These are TRUE synthetic motor oils. Examples are Mobil-1 and Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil (this does not include the XL-7500).

Group V: Also true synthetic, but not commonly used. There's one brand that uses Group V but the name escapes me. There's no indication that Group V is any better than Group IV, just different. Many oil additives are Group V products.

The only true synthetic base stock oils are the Group IV and V. There are only a handful of Group IV base stock manufacturers in the world and Exxon Mobil is the largest. Mobil-1 and Amsoil both use Exxon Mobil Group IV base stock.

If they both use the same exact base stock why is Mobil-1 API Certified and Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil is not? It's all in the additives. Only about 40 - 50% of what you pour out of that oil container is the base stock. The rest is additives. There is a huge difference between Mobil-1 and Amsoil Synthetic Motor Oil's additive packages. Amsoil makes no base stocks, just the additives and they don't meet API standards.

I'm on a roll so let's talk about filters.

People will take great care in selecting a motor oil, and then slap a cheap filter on a wonderful machine like an Ridgeline.

It's my opinion that the oil filter is MORE important than the oil you select. Select ANY API Certified oil, conventional or synthetic, that meets the weight and service requirements for your Ridgeline, but put a good quality filter on at the same time.

The best oil in the world will not overcome a cheap junk filter.

A Fram oil filter (other than the X2 which is a fine filter) are JUNK. They are probably worse for your engine than not having a filter at all. I'm not just picking on Fram, but they're the biggest. (note that many Honda filters are now made by Fram)

There are many good reviews of oil filters on the web. The result for every one I've read is the same. Pick a good oil filter made by Champion Labs. These come under many brand names... Mobil-1, STP, Lee, and other names I can't remember right now.

Off my soap box now... sorry.

Regarding oil filters... yes I've read several of the Internet oil filter studies. Some are more scientific than others, but my decisions are not fully based on those studies.

A very good friend of mine manages a large fleet of vehicles. All different kinds of automobiles and small trucks. He's been there for about 32 years and has had the opportunity to do a variety of experiments in attempt to extend fleet life and/or increase resale value.

They have their own oil analysis lab and still cut apart every oil filter at the end of life. His findings are mostly what I base my opinions on... much of what I know is simply from discussing this with him. He firmly believes that dino oil and a good filter is far superior to synthetic oil and a cheap filter (they don't do extended drain intervals, but tried it in the past I believe). I've played the devil's advocate with him several times... did he consider that cheaper oils fail to keep dirt in suspension properly, etc. He's made me a believer.

There are two kinds of dirt in your engine. The bigger particles can be filtered and the smaller ones should remain in suspension in the oil (if oil didn't maintain the dirt in suspension you end up with sludge). With a good filter the size of the particles in suspension are not capable of damaging the engine. Poor filters allow the larger particles to remain in suspension of the oil, the better the oil the more of the bigger particles remain in suspension. Those larger particles cause engine wear.

Filtration is just one aspect of the duties of an oil filter. I don't know if the Ridgeline's oil filter is supposed to have an anti-drainback valve or not (probably does), but on an engine that is supposed to have one, and you use a cheap filter with an innefective or absent anti-drainback valve you are dry starting your engine every time!

What about pressure drop? A filter with a small amount of filter material in it can cause significant pressure drop across the filter as it becomes clogged. Guess what happens? The bypass valve opens and you are pumping unfiltered oil through your engine! You of course have no idea if this is happening or not.

The amount of filter material between a Fram basic filter and a good filter is amazing! For example a Fram Extra Guard (supposedly one of their better filters) has 193 sq. in. of filter material, a filter for the exact same application but in the Mobil-1 brand contains 351 sq. in. of filter material.

I could go on and on, but you get the point.... I hope!

I wonder who ever started this "change your oil every 3000 miles" garbage? Probably the quick lube joints.

Even the dealers spew this garbage to customers, and some are fool enough to think a car salesman knows more about engine oil life than the engineers who decided upon the real oil change interval.

The oil in our MDX's, along with most every other modern car, is supposed to be changed every 7500 miles. Not 3000! (note the Ridgline's oil life monitor's default value is 7500 miles, but adjusts due to cold starts, temp, etc.)

Yes, there is a "severe" shedule where you should change more frequently, but even that's at 3750 miles, and most people that think they fit into the severe schedule really don't.

To meet the severe schedule you must meet the following criteria:
"Follow the "severe" schedule only if you drive in one or more of these conditions most of the time:

Trips of less than 5 miles (less than 10 in freezing weather)
Extremely hot weather (over 90 degrees F)
Extensive idling or stop-and-go driving
Trailer towing, car-top carrier, or mountain driving
Muddy, dusty, or de-iced roads "

What does that mean? The key is "most of the time" which is defined by the SAE as 70% or more of the time.

For example, not even the average driver meets the 70% criteria for "over 90 degrees F" even if they are a daily commuter in Phoenix, AZ. This is documented by SAE.

The average driver in Anchorage, AK does not meet the cold weather criteria in the winter.

Some people do meet the severe schedule criteria, but not many.

So, take the advice of a car salesman, oil lube jockey, or even a service writer or certified mechanic and change your oil every 3000 miles. Won't hurt anything but your finances. Otherwise take the advice of the engineers who designed the engine and the vehicle and maintain your vehicle per the maintenance schedule.

I'm not a tree hugger, but changing your oil every 3000 is not only a waste of your money, but a waste of resources as well.

This thread is not about oil types; I simply asked a question: "what is/are the official Honda-recommended intervals for changing oil in the Ridgeline" and thru all these posts, there is still no answer to that. This is astonishing to me--it ought to be prominently featured in the Owner's Manual.

Unless there is a "dirty oil sensor" in the Ridge I don't know how a computer algorithm can tell the difference between clean vs. dirty/dusty driving conditions.

But again, why wouldn't Honda tell us "5000 clean, 3500 dusty" or SOMETHING, ANYTHING about this. There is no warranty available anywhere that I know of for engine problems after 100K miles, when you would be most likely to start seeing the effects of inadequate lubrication.

But again, this is not an argument about what different people do, this is a question of "what does Honda say" and if Honda won't say, maybe we need to ask about that blankety-blank computer algorithm!!!

This thread is not about oil types; I simply asked a question: "what is/are the official Honda-recommended intervals for changing oil in the Ridgeline" and thru all these posts, there is still no answer to that. This is astonishing to me--it ought to be prominently featured in the Owner's Manual.

Unless there is a "dirty oil sensor" in the Ridge I don't know how a computer algorithm can tell the difference between clean vs. dirty/dusty driving conditions.

But again, why wouldn't Honda tell us "5000 clean, 3500 dusty" or SOMETHING, ANYTHING about this. There is no warranty available anywhere that I know of for engine problems after 100K miles, when you would be most likely to start seeing the effects of inadequate lubrication.

But again, this is not an argument about what different people do, this is a question of "what does Honda say" and if Honda won't say, maybe we need to ask about that blankety-blank computer algorithm!!!

Well I thought it was pretty clear. I browsed the Owners Manual and I believe it said to follow the oil life monitor.

The default value for the oil life monitor is 7500 miles. If you have a larger number of cold starts than average, or you drive in extremely cold or hot temps the monitor will reduce the number of miles between changes. I don't know that it will extend it or not.

The engine and transmission in the Ridgeline are nearly identical to the Acura MDX. The oil change interval on the MDX is 7500 miles under normal conditions, I earlier posted the severe schedule and the interval. If you want a written oil change schedule then you could follow the MDX schedule I suppose. Honda will apparently be eliminating the written oil change schedules in favor of the oil life monitor... it's just a better way to do it.

No there's not a sensor in that physically monitors how dirty the oil is. The engineers believe they can determine how dirty the oil is by monitoring the number of revolutions the engine has turned, how many cold starts, what temperatures you've encountered, and maybe a couple of variables I can't think of right now. If you have oil in the engine that meets specs, and an average oil and air filter they don't need to physically have a sensor on the oil itself.

There's no other information that anyone can give you.

Sorry I offended you by posting other info. I believe there are people that really want to maintain their Ridgeline the best way possible. I just tried to pass on some information. Again, sorry it offended you and there is no definitive answer to your question.

I'll trust the computer too, since nobody at the dealership could tell me where the radio antenna was located.

Sorry I offended you by posting other info. I believe there are people that really want to maintain their Ridgeline the best way possible. I just tried to pass on some information. Again, sorry it offended you and there is no definitive answer to your question.

csimo, Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. What about this first oil change that has the special break in oil in the engine? When would you change your oil the first time? Would you use the oil monitor for that as well or a set milage interval of like 3,750? This question is for anybody else that has input.

After the first oil change, I will follow the computer, and use dino for the first 10 to 12,000 miles to run the engine at those higher temps to seat all the parts in the engine perfectly, and then switch to Mobil 1, 5-20 synthetic after that to lower the operating temp and extend that great engine's life even further. It would be interesting to know what the temp difference is in a engine running dino and a engine running synthetic. Mabey you, Vertrkr, or any body else would know. Does anyone disagree with my methodology in this last paragraph?

csimo, Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. What about this first oil change that has the special break in oil in the engine? When would you change your oil the first time? Would you use the oil monitor for that as well or a set milage interval of like 3,750? This question is for anybody else that has input.

After the first oil change, I will follow the computer, and use dino for the first 10 to 12,000 miles to run the engine at those higher temps to seat all the parts in the engine perfectly, and then switch to Mobil 1, 5-20 synthetic after that to lower the operating temp and extend that great engine's life even further. It would be interesting to know what the temp difference is in a engine running dino and a engine running synthetic. Mabey you, Vertrkr, or any body else would know. Does anyone disagree with my methodology in this last paragraph?

Yes, Honda uses a special break in oil that is high in molybdenum to facilitate ring seating and bearing break in. There are many that believe you should leave the break in oil until the first scheduled oil change or in the case of the Ridgeline when then oil life monitor tells you to change it.

I differ in opinion. Although it's been proven that dino oil can safely go 7500 miles, I don't believe it can go that far on a brand new engine. My personal opinion is that I would change out the break in oil at 5000 if the oil life monitor didn't tell me to do it sooner. I would not go beyond 5000 miles, but I think it's important to keep the high moly oil in there for a reasonable period of time (I think 3000 is too short in this case).

As for changing over the synthetic. Some of the finest engines in the world use Mobil 1 as the factory fill (Porche, Corvette, BMW, and others). You can change to synthetic ANY time. I run nothing but Mobil 1 in my vehicles... period (not the new Extended Performance version).

Extended drain intervals is another subject... bottom line is that I don't buy it for a second. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation and you won't go wrong.

csimo, Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. What about this first oil change that has the special break in oil in the engine? When would you change your oil the first time? Would you use the oil monitor for that as well or a set milage interval of like 3,750? This question is for anybody else that has input.
After the first oil change, I will follow the computer, and use dino for the first 10 to 12,000 miles to run the engine at those higher temps to seat all the parts in the engine perfectly, and then switch to Mobil 1, 5-20 synthetic after that to lower the operating temp and extend that great engine's life even further. It would be interesting to know what the temp difference is in a engine running dino and a engine running synthetic. Mabey you, Vertrkr, or any body else would know. Does anyone disagree with my methodology in this last paragraph?

I've talked to one of the top Honda engineers at length. Leave the the break in oil until the computer/dash tells you to change it at 0% or so, they'd like to to see you run for 3000 miles at an absolute minium, more the better until you get to 0%. This goes the same for every oil change after that too. As for waiting to change to syn, you can do it at the first oil change. What oil wieght to use after that is debatable. Becaue of CAFE regulations Honda must legally only recommend using 5W-20 because that's what the engine is qualified with. Can you use other weights without problems, certainly. You just want to pick a weight appropriate for your climate. If you're in the cold very north a 0W-30 might be your best choice. Moderate climates like me in California a 5W-30 is a fine choice. Where ever you live if you use 5W-20 as Honda specifies you'll still be fine but if you live in extreme cold or hot climates you might consider going with a thinner or thicker oil respectively. As csmio, mentioned you really should do yourself a favor picking a good oil filter. Any filter made by Champion labs is a good choice. Mobil1 & K&N are always a good top choice but you pay a premium for those. Myself, I'll be using after the first change Mobil1 5W-30 EP with a Mobil1 filter too.

...Sorry I offended you by posting other info...I was not offended csimo, I was simply trying to bring this thread back on-topic which was [see subject]. If the answer to my question is "7500 miles and Honda doesn't care whether dusty environment or not" then I guess that's the answer. I haven't heard this from Honda.

I'm old enough to have had it ingrained into me that there is a difference though in environmental conditions that needs to be taken into account when recommending an oil change interval. If the on-board computer doesn't take these environmental conditions into account, then the owner has to, and it continues to surprise me that Honda has said/done nothing about this to reassure us old-timers who have grown-up with certain "conventional wisdoms".

I was not offended csimo, I was simply trying to bring this thread back on-topic which was [see subject]. If the answer to my question is "7500 miles and Honda doesn't care whether dusty environment or not" then I guess that's the answer. I haven't heard this from Honda.

I'm old enough to have had it ingrained into me that there is a difference though in environmental conditions that needs to be taken into account when recommending an oil change interval. If the on-board computer doesn't take these environmental conditions into account, then the owner has to, and it continues to surprise me that Honda has said/done nothing about this to reassure us old-timers who have grown-up with certain "conventional wisdoms".

Well to put in terms like you suggest, I think Honda is saying "change the oil when the oil life monitor tell you to... regardless of dust, heat, cold, etc.". I can't say I agree with that 100%, but if you use a good oil, a good oil filter (not basic Fram or Honda), and keep a clean air filter (paper element... not K&N or other high flow filters) on the engine you will be safe doing exactly what Honda recommends.

If you use a cheap oil filter, and your air filter is dirty then I don't believe the oil life monitor can compensate for those problems.

It has been so long since I have bought a new car that I'm not accustomed either to these new-fangled (shouldn't have used that, now you'll think I'm really old) long-term warranties and miles-between-tuneups and oil intervals and...

Perhaps, hopefully, engines are so much better built today that my concern is no longer a big deal.

About your filter comment though, I wonder if Honda's is a "cheap" filter since that's probably what would be installed if you returned to your dealer for oil changes and other service work? In any case if our last "new car" purchase is any indicator (a '94 Jeep GC) then we will have the Ridge for 10 years and more, which is why I brought-up this thread/concern in the first place.

From what I understand there are at least three different "Honda" oil filters. The filter originally installed on the engine at the factory is a Japanese filter that's pretty good, but only available in Japan. In Canada they have yet a different filter. In the USA the filter we get at the Honda dealer is now made by Fram. I've read where two were disassembled and were nearly identical to the cheap Fram's.

One funny note... Wal-Mart is a big seller of Fram filters. They also have their own brand called SuperTech which I think is their lowest price filter. The SuperTech oil filter is a GREAT filter... made by Champion Labs and is far superior to the standard Fram filters.

Fram makes at least four filter lines. The standard Fram ExtraGuard filter (read junk), the ToughGuard filter (still junk), the DoubleGuard filter (contains PTFE resins... worse than junk), and the X2 ExtendedGuard filter (a very good filter).

In the case of Wal-Mart the cheap SuperTech filter is as good, or better than the Fram X2 ExtendedGuard filter. You can probably buy 3 SuperTech's for the price of one X2.

If I were to have my oil changed at a Honda dealer I would provide my own filter.

...Wal-Mart is a big seller of Fram filters. They also have their own brand called SuperTech which I think is their lowest price filter. The SuperTech oil filter is a GREAT filter... made by Champion Labs and is far superior to the standard Fram filters...This is great info! I will add these to our Wal-mart shopping list, assuming of course they can be had there for the Ridge. This is OT of course :o but is there any other good, cheap stuff there? For our vehicles, I mean. :D

Yes, really there is. I don't know which version of the oil filter Honda is calling for on the Ridgeline. For just about all other Honda products there are three oil filters. The base is identical on all three, but the amount of filter material in the filter is vastly different.

Up until 2003, or 2004 (can't remember) Honda used the medium sized filter. Then they switched to the current tiny filter (cost savings I believe). The third filter is the older "oversize" filter, but it won't fit many newer Honda vehicles due to clearance problems.

I'll try and look up the numbers, but the relief valve pressure, and anti-drain back valve are the same on the new tiny filter and the older mid sized filter. I use the older mid sized filter since it contains about twice the filter material of the newer filter.

I have not looked at a Ridgeline and don't know if there are any clearance issues or not. If not use the older filter... works much better.

Thanks Csimo and Vertrkr, That info was helpful about the break in oil.

As far as the honda filters go, I understand the Honda filters look the same, but you want to look for "made by Filtech" label on the Honda filters. These are the good ones. There is the other Honda filter that says "made by Honeywell" These are the bad Fram filters. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my understanding.

Hello new to the forum, I just did my first oil change about 300 miles ago along with the transmission fluid, i used Amsoil 5w20 synthetic motor oil with amsoil filter and Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid, since using the synthetic oil i am getting around 24mpg on the hwy and around 19mpg around town, this is my first time using amsoil my other cars i have used mobil 1 with great results

bigridge.... after how many miles did you do your first oil change? What kind of mileage were you getting previously? Thanks............

Hello new to the forum, I just did my first oil change about 300 miles ago along with the transmission fluid, i used Amsoil 5w20 synthetic motor oil with amsoil filter and Amsoil synthetic transmission fluid, since using the synthetic oil i am getting around 24mpg on the hwy and around 19mpg around town, this is my first time using amsoil my other cars i have used mobil 1 with great results

I do not have access to a Ridgeline owners manual, but I would read the section on oil requirements very carefully.

Does the Ridgeline require that you use an API Certified oil?

Does the oil you used carry the API Starburst... not a facsimile thereof?

If the answers are what I think they are then you better change that oil right away!

Found this on the AMSOIL website...



Warranties And API Licensed Motor Oils

Fortunately, the law does not allow manufacturers to "void your warranty" simply because of the brand of oil you use, the specifications it meets or the miles you drive between oil changes. To be specific, they cannot deny to fix your broken radio, faulty valve or cracked piston because you used an AMSOIL non-API licensed motor oil, or because you've gone more than 3000 miles since your last oil change. Denial of warranty coverage must be specifically due to an oil related failure. All courts of law will find against any manufacturer or dealership that tries these warranty shenanigans. If any automobile dealership insinuates that your warranty will be void if you use AMSOIL products or utilize extended drain intervals, let AMSOIL INC. know the name of the Dealership, the address, the owner's name and the name of the employee that made this statement. Mail to:

AMSOIL INC.
Attention: Technical Services Department
AMSOIL Building
Superior, WI 54880

or e-mail to tech@amsoil.com.

They will almost never put it in writing, but if they do, please send us a copy of that, too. Either way, we will send them a letter informing them cease the intimidation of our customers.

Only if the oil is determined to be the direct cause of the engine problem can a manufacturer or dealership deny warranty coverage for that specific problem. In this situation the AMSOIL warranty would apply, and the AMSOIL Technical Services Department would assist you in processing your claim and in getting the vehicle repaired. That's our pledge to you. AMSOIL INC. sells millions of gallons of oil per year and warranty claims are a rare occurrence. If you ever have a warranty problem with an automobile manufacturer or dealership, AMSOIL will assist you by analyzing the problem and providing data supporting the fact that repairs should be made under the vehicle manufacturer's warranty. If this does not resolve the problem, AMSOIL will submit a claim with our insurance company and request that an adjuster have the vehicle repaired and pursue legal settlement later if necessary. The fact is there never has been an engine failure attributed to the non-performance of AMSOIL products, and we do not expect there ever will be. If it ever did, both AMSOIL and our insurance company would make certain your problem was resolved.

I talked to my dealership today on oil filters. The ones I bought from them(before I knew there was a difference) are the Honeywell/Fram. The said these are the ones typically they receive. Sometimes they get the Filtech ones but they never know when. The said they have been putting the honeywell ones and have not experienced any problems. They said they are all made to Honda's spec.

So...I am sitting on 10 Honeywells and I still not sure if I use them it will cause a problem.

Next subject, been using Amsoil for years. Used Mobil 1 previously. After the gentlemen pointed out about the API seal on the Amsoil standard synthetic. I sent an email to Amsoil and await their reply.

I am confused more then ever. Just want to do what is right by my truck.

these are the certifications amsoil has API service sm/cf, sl, sj, ilsacgf-4,3..., acea A1/B1, jaso vtm, gm6094m, ford wssm2c930-a, chrslyer ms6395n its more than certifed enough to be in my honda i would never own a car without using synthetic my 1991 mazda has 300,550.00 miles on her she doesnt burn a drop of oil or leak and she still gets 34 mpg i been using mobil 1 since new in her, i changed the oil @ 3000 miles i was getting around 21 mpg before the oil the change as soon as you hit around 2800 miles you will see an increase in the mileage, do yourself a favor and use synthetic oil mobil1 amsoil which ever brand you chose you will save money i do 2 oil changes a year ,you get better mpg and its 100x better for the engine that conventional oils

Found this on the AMSOIL website...



Warranties And API Licensed Motor Oils

Fortunately, the law does not allow manufacturers to "void your warranty" simply because of the brand of oil you use, the specifications it meets or the miles you drive between oil changes. To be specific, they cannot deny to fix your broken radio, faulty valve or cracked piston because you used an AMSOIL non-API licensed motor oil, or because you've gone more than 3000 miles since your last oil change. Denial of warranty coverage must be specifically due to an oil related failure. All courts of law will find against any manufacturer or dealership that tries these warranty shenanigans. If any automobile dealership insinuates that your warranty will be void if you use AMSOIL products or utilize extended drain intervals, let AMSOIL INC. know the name of the Dealership, the address, the owner's name and the name of the employee that made this statement. Mail to:

AMSOIL INC.
Attention: Technical Services Department
AMSOIL Building
Superior, WI 54880

or e-mail to tech@amsoil.com.

They will almost never put it in writing, but if they do, please send us a copy of that, too. Either way, we will send them a letter informing them cease the intimidation of our customers.

Only if the oil is determined to be the direct cause of the engine problem can a manufacturer or dealership deny warranty coverage for that specific problem. In this situation the AMSOIL warranty would apply, and the AMSOIL Technical Services Department would assist you in processing your claim and in getting the vehicle repaired. That's our pledge to you. AMSOIL INC. sells millions of gallons of oil per year and warranty claims are a rare occurrence. If you ever have a warranty problem with an automobile manufacturer or dealership, AMSOIL will assist you by analyzing the problem and providing data supporting the fact that repairs should be made under the vehicle manufacturer's warranty. If this does not resolve the problem, AMSOIL will submit a claim with our insurance company and request that an adjuster have the vehicle repaired and pursue legal settlement later if necessary. The fact is there never has been an engine failure attributed to the non-performance of AMSOIL products, and we do not expect there ever will be. If it ever did, both AMSOIL and our insurance company would make certain your problem was resolved.

What a TOTAL load of BS. Just being honest here. Care to dissect this?

Their statement "Fortunately, the law does not allow manufacturers to "void your warranty" simply because of the brand of oil you use, the specifications it meets or the miles you drive between oil changes." Seems simple enough right? What does it REALLY say? It says "void your warranty" and even goes to the point of quoting it. No, a manufacturer can't void a warranty, but they sure can deny warranty coverage. If you choose to use aftermarket products in your vehicle that do not meet the manufacturer's specifications the manufacturer is under no obligation to cover any failure that results from failing to use products that meet specifications.That's the truth.

If you decide to put 90 weight gear lube in your crankcase do you think Honda is obligated to cover any damage that results?

If you fail to change your oil, or do the scheduled maintenance on the vehicle do you think Honda is obligated to cover any damage that results?

You see it's claims like those made by Amsoil that are nothing but deceiving, deceitful, and just plain wrong.

Then they lay this whopper on you, "To be specific, they cannot deny to fix your broken radio, faulty valve or cracked piston because you used an AMSOIL non-API licensed motor oil, or because you've gone more than 3000 miles since your last oil change. Denial of warranty coverage must be specifically due to an oil related failure." Funny the way they word that isn't it? Your radio would never be linked to the oil you use. A "faulty" valve is a defect in materials or workmanship and not related to oil... the statement says the valve itself is faulty or defective (a clever statement). How about a cracked piston? Sounds like they got you there doesn't it? Do pistons "crack" due to faulty lubrication? Not that I know of.

What about a spun bearing Amsoil? What about a scored piston Amsoil? What about any of the other thousand things that ARE oil related? Why didn't you list any of them?

Then some, but not all truth comes out, "Only if the oil is determined to be the direct cause of the engine problem can a manufacturer or dealership deny warranty coverage for that specific problem." Well sort of. Honda would only have to be "reasonably assured" that the failure was oil related.

Let's talk about the Magnuson-Moss Act that many like to throw around. The Act protects your right as an owner to use ANY brand of aftermarket maintenance items that you desire as long as they meet or exceed the manufacturer's specifications. Honda can't require you to use Honda oil, Honda spark plugs, etc. You can use any brand you want as long as they meet or exceed the manufacturer's specifications. In such cases the burden of proof is on the manufacturer.

What about motor oil? I'm pretty sure Honda REQUIRES that you use an API Certified motor oil.

If you have an oil related failure and Honda discovers that you did not use an API Certified motor oil they can deny the warranty claim. Amsoil can make all the claims they want, but you didn't follow the manufacturer's specifications and the Magnuson-Moss Act does not apply.

The Magnuson-Moss Act does not apply between you and Amsoil either. Suddenly the burden of proof is on your back. You have to prove to Amsoil that their product failed. Do you have the resources to do so? Honda doesn't have to do it... you do.

Amsoil can CLAIM that their product meets or exceeds API Certification standards all they want, but the ONLY independent rating service is the API and Amsoil didn't bother to actually get it certified. Wonder why? It's not what Amsoil will tell you.

Do you think you can call Amsoil and say "my Honda dealer says it's your fault here's my $15,000 bill for a new engine"? See what happens then. Find out how alone you really are.

The above is my opinion and I'm sticking to it, and API Certified oil.

I could go on and on about this. The bottom line is that your only safe bet is to use API Certified oil and stop listening to snake oil salesmen.

the oil i use from amsoil is API certified says it right on the bottle and on their web site

these are the certifications amsoil has API service sm/cf, sl, sj, ilsacgf-4,3..., acea A1/B1, jaso vtm, gm6094m, ford wssm2c930-a, chrslyer ms6395n its more than certifed enough to be in my honda i would never own a car without using synthetic my 1991 mazda has 300,550.00 miles on her she doesnt burn a drop of oil or leak and she still gets 34 mpg i been using mobil 1 since new in her, i changed the oil @ 3000 miles i was getting around 21 mpg before the oil the change as soon as you hit around 2800 miles you will see an increase in the mileage, do yourself a favor and use synthetic oil mobil1 amsoil which ever brand you chose you will save money i do 2 oil changes a year ,you get better mpg and its 100x better for the engine that conventional oils

Prove it to me. It may say it MEETS those API service levels but does it have the API star on the bottle? Does it have a star that kind of looks like the one below? Big difference!!!

gm6094m, for wssm2c930-a, etc. are specifications. There is no tesing. You could put out a bottle of water that claims it meets those specs. Smoke and mirrors is what it is.

To get API Certified the oil has to be submitted to API for TESTING. The product can only be certified if it passes actual API testing... not just a minimum specification. Major difference.

BTW, do you think Amsoil makes any of its base stocks? Whose base stock do you think they use? Hint, hint, there are only a very few PAO Group IV base stock manufacturers. The only difference is the additives.

the oil i use from amsoil is API certified says it right on the bottle and on their web site

Yes, as I mentioned earlier they do have a synthetic blend product that's API Certified, but unless things have changed very recently their premier, fully synthetic product is NOT certified.

OK, here we go...

Here's Amsoil's premier product... the one they claim you only change every year or 25,000 miles. Look at the deceptive package. That kind of looks like an API Certification starburst, but look again. Just says API Service SL-CF... not Certified at all.

its not a synthittic blend its their amsoil XL 5w20 extended life synthetic check out their website you will see it

Now let's look at this one. Series 2000 synthetic. Don't know if this is a true Group IV synthetic or not. Note another similar starburst... but not API Certified. Funny that they try and make it look so similar.

Now let's look at their XL 7500 product. Before the lawsuit that changed what could be called "synthetic oil" this was a synthetic blend. I'm fairly certain that this contains Group III base stocks. Amsoil is proud to point out that this oil IS API CERTIFIED. The product proudly displays the API Certifed starburst.

its not a synthittic blend its their amsoil XL 5w20 extended life synthetic check out their website you will see it

In reality it's not synthetic AT ALL. Only because of a lawsuit where a stupid judge incorrectly allowed Group III base stocks to be called synthetic can it be called synthetic at all. It's made from dino... not a PAO Group IV like a REAL synthetic oil.

Here's what AMSOIL Vice President of Manufacturing Alan Amatuzio said about the XL 7500 product:
Amatuzio: Our XL-7500 oils are the oils of choice in the retail oil change market, and primarily because of warranty concerns the customers in this market require API-certified. In order to obtain API SL/ILSAC GF-3 certification and still remain cost-competitve with the other oils sold at retail oil change outlets, we had to change to Group III basestocks. To obtain API certification with our top tier basestocks would have priced our Dealers out of the market.

Action News: Are Group III basestocks synthetic?

Amatuzio: Yes, they are synthetic. Group III base oils are highly processed oils and were classified as synthetic in 1999. That year, the National Advertising Division (NAD) of the Council of Better Business Bureaus ruled in a complaint by Mobil Oil Corp. against Castrol North America Inc. Castrol claimed its product, Synthec, was a synthetic oil even though it had used Group III base oils since 1997.

http://www.performancempg.com/changes_xl-7500.htm


You can use REAL, API Certified, PAO Group IV base stock synthetic oil for less money that the above mentioned "product".

the xl 7500 is what i use i dont care about their other products aslong as the 1 i am using is API certfied thst ok with me, the reason why amsoil doesnt certify allot of their oils is because everytime they make a change to their oils they have to pay to recertify it

Amsoil may make some great lubricants, but due to their policies we just don't know. They don't subject themselves to independent industry standard testing, and then they publish tests that are meaningless. Why they do this is unknown to me, but when a manufacturer puts out misleading information I steer clear. There are other non-API Certified "premium" oils out there, but none as well known as Amsoil.

You have to hand it to Amsoil in developing a cult style following. They and Amway seem to have learned well from each other.

I don't mean to be a jerk about this, but if anyone can point me to information (that doesn't come from Amsoil or an anonymous "independent lab") that proves any of Amsoil's claims I'll be happy to read it (and possibly change my opinion). The problem is that I don't think such information exists.

If you had a product that you truly felt was the best in the world wouldn't you submit it to independent industry standard testing and PROVE that it's the best? I know I would.

Use any oil in your Ridgeline you want, but just be aware that the choice you make could have consequences you didn't anticipate.

We all just want the best for our vehicles or we wouldn't be reading all these messages!

The oils is API certified so if something happens they can't say its because i used a non certified API oil, i have the proof its on their web site and on the bottle they gave me, i dont ever see having a problem with the oil like i said i used synthetic oils for the past 14 years with great results, i know people who have used amsoil for just aslong without any problems, how many people here have had issues with blowing an engine if they have i can bet it was due more to neglect than it was the fact that the oil was the cause of it

Well i dont know much about oil all i know is that a few years ago when the oil change shop we took our camper/rv to didnt have the usual stuff we put in it i had them put synthetic in and by golly wouldntcha knowit we actually had a noticeable increase in gas mileage since we would drive the same crosscountry route every time and stop at the same gas stations and this trip we found ourselves passing them up cuz we had so much gas left in the tank it was a real revelationto me i always thought synthetic was b as in b and s as in s but this experience caused me to become a believer fer sher dontcha know now these days the only thing that bugs me are folks who dont or cant use punctuation or otherwise express themseves in a fashion that is basic 4th grade school larnin man its hard to wade thru this junk isnt it

Now that's stream of consciousness!

Guess I might have to try some o that there syn stuff...

I got a nice letter from my dealer concerning the oil change interval. This was not from Honda but I assume they endorse it or have some say in what their dealers are putting out. I will try to scan this and post it as a .pdf when I get home (where I left it today). Basically it said design and engineering, engines, oils, and fuels are all much better today than in years past. Quick lube places say every 3,000 miles to make money! They said stick to the 10,000 miles or computer recommendation and use good quality replacements and your new Honda will last a long time.

I'll trust the computer too, since nobody at the dealership could tell me where the radio antenna was located.

WOW!! YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING!!! well ahab, even a green horn like me can tell you that it is located in the windshield at the top. :rolleyes:

i too am concerned about this onboard telling me when to change fluids, etc.

WOW!! YOU HAVE GOT TO BE KIDDING!!! well ahab, even a green horn like me can tell you that it is located in the windshield at the top. :rolleyes:
i too am concerned about this onboard telling me when to change fluids, etc.

Actually the antenna is on the roof in the rear under the plastic strip.

Actually the antenna is on the roof in the rear under the plastic strip.

shhhh. not so loud vert.......................good grief.................well, its also part of the black trim of the windshield. as bright as you seem, you know they started that type of intenna when replacing the old pop-ups.

shhhh. not so loud vert.......................good grief.................well, its also part of the black trim of the windshield. as bright as you seem, you know they started that type of intenna when replacing the old pop-ups.

im also referring to standard, without satellite radio. that type is in the rear
portion of the cab for sure.

shhhh. not so loud vert.......................good grief.................well, its also part of the black trim of the windshield. as bright as you seem, you know they started that type of intenna when replacing the old pop-ups.

Not on the RidgeLine for any model. Many other makers have them that way or on the back or side window. Never doubt a man with a service manual :D

lol........lol...............fair enough ole wise one.........just assumed sat radio ;)
hey vert........i see you all over the place here and either you know a little bit mechanically or youre the smartest idiot i ever "met".....(i suspect a mixture :cool: ) anyway, seriously, what do you make of the transmission service interval on this truck? i scratched my head along with the lack of info about oil changes, etc.

lol........lol...............fair enough ole wise one.........just assumed sat radio ;)
hey vert........i see you all over the place here and either you know a little bit mechanically or youre the smartest idiot i ever "met".....(i suspect a mixture :cool: ) anyway, seriously, what do you make of the transmission service interval on this truck? i scratched my head along with the lack of info about oil changes, etc.

Presumptuous but you're probably right with smart idiot, I think a village misses me somewhere :) I do have a B.S. in mechanical engineering but I've never worked in the field and hence forgot eveything I learned. As for the transmition, I'd stick with Maintenance Minder schedule, what ever that is. It does say if you tow alot or drive in the mountains slowly to change it out at 30,000 miles. I imagine it's probably around 60,000 or so for normal driving.

And thats what gets me vert.........ive never had a vehicle that allowed that kind of interval. i saw the 30,000 suggestion if working it hard which this truck wont' be most of the time. so they are making these things where we can go that long?? i mean hell, my 03 f-150 told me to do it at 30,000 period.

And thats what gets me vert.........ive never had a vehicle that allowed that kind of interval. i saw the 30,000 suggestion if working it hard which this truck wont' be most of the time. so they are making these things where we can go that long?? i mean hell, my 03 f-150 told me to do it at 30,000 period.
It was a Ford! ;)

And thats what gets me vert.........ive never had a vehicle that allowed that kind of interval. i saw the 30,000 suggestion if working it hard which this truck wont' be most of the time. so they are making these things where we can go that long?? i mean hell, my 03 f-150 told me to do it at 30,000 period.


I think it will last. The Honda ATF is most likely a synthetic and the whole thing is a sealed system so you're not going to get contaminents in it like you do in engine oil. The last thing Honda wants is another transmission fiasco like they had in some Acuras and gen II Odys so I rest assured they have the schedule down right. The RL also has a heavy duty transmission and ATF cooler up front so it should be fine.

YEA, I SAW THE TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLING FAN...................AND I DO RECALL SOMETHING ABOUT HONDA AND TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS SEVERAL YEARS AGO.....TO THE POINT WHERE HONDA EXTENDED WARRANTIES ON THEM TO 100,000 FOR THAT ERA.............AND YES SWAMP, IT WAS A FORD!!! LOL..LOL...LOL. :rolleyes:

The tranny warranty on our '01 Accord got extended to 100k. :rolleyes:

PS: I can say that about the Ford since that's what I had too! :D

yea i recall you telling me thats what you had before this....all in all, even though its first truck, first year, etc..........im hoping weve bought a better quality truck with honda.

I feel pretty good about this transmission considering I won't be doing any towing this heavy duty transmission will be getting pretty light duty from me. It should last a long time with the driving conditions I'll subject it to.

Because I read this thread before picking up my RTL yesterday, I made it a point to talk to as many people at the dealership as I could to get a sense about when to change oil. I spoke to three different people - the salesman, a guy in the service department, and the guy who closes the deal and does all the paper work (who actually bought an RTL for himself!). Each person was spoken to at different times and apart. Without exception, they said leave it up to the computer to tell you as that is the best gauge - the engine itself. The mechanic said this is true unless you move from this area or start to travel off road conditions.

So, I won't worry about it; I trust Honda technology enough that I'll change oil when it tells me it is time. When that happens the oil will probably be Mobil One with the best filter I can find.

I feel pretty good about this transmission considering I won't be doing any towing this heavy duty transmission will be getting pretty light duty from me. It should last a long time with the driving conditions I'll subject it to.

think we are in the same boat there................won't be asking it to move more than my fat butt most of the time.......((hmmm, might need to change every other week then :eek: )

Because I read this thread before picking up my RTL yesterday, I made it a point to talk to as many people at the dealership as I could to get a sense about when to change oil. I spoke to three different people - the salesman, a guy in the service department, and the guy who closes the deal and does all the paper work (who actually bought an RTL for himself!). Each person was spoken to at different times and apart. Without exception, they said leave it up to the computer to tell you as that is the best gauge - the engine itself. The mechanic said this is true unless you move from this area or start to travel off road conditions.

So, I won't worry about it; I trust Honda technology enough that I'll change oil when it tells me it is time. When that happens the oil will probably be Mobil One with the best filter I can find.

thanks for the input. sounds like that is the best way to go.

Just so everyone knows the oil that is currently used by Honda is made by MobileExxon just repackaged and price increased. So if you want the same oil use the MobileExxon SuperFlow 5-20W oil. The most important fact is to use a top line oil filter not a cheap knock off filter. Use the computer to tell you when to change the oil. This computer takes into account many factors like engine rpm, fuel milage, temp outside and temp of the engine, rpm, type of driving (city, highway), it uses all these and more to determine the best change ratio for your oil. As long as you keep your air filter changed when it tells you there should be no problem. Yes it even monitors the air filter for air flow ect. You can also bet that Honda left a margin for the few who would go to 0% left. So you will get a different range of oil change intervals depending on your driving conditions for most this won't change much for others it might depending on how and where you drive. I'm going to follow the computer minder since this is what Honda put in the vehicle and is the least environmental impact way of changing oil. I've got over 3,000 on my truck now and it's at 60% left... Mine is city and highway driving mostly.

...Yes it even monitors the air filter for air flow...


Actually there's no air flow sensor to monitor the filter condition. I asked a Honda engineer that question and he said it would take sensors before and after the filter to do that and they deemed it too expensive to include. The computer will tell you to change the air filter every 30,000 miles regardless of it's condition. The manual says if driven regulary in dusty conditions then change it every 15,000.

vertrkr,

Thanks for that update and correction on the no flow sensor in the air filter so I'll have to make sure I watch that one if am in a dusty area. I really like this site it sure is a great help and the fellow owners are the best by what I can see and read. Good info to know. Thanks to everyone else for their help and comments.

At the maintance breifing we attended after we purchased our RL, we were told to rely on the maintance minder to tell us when to change oil. How ever we did change it earlier on the first change, because we we're going on an extended vacation and it was only a few hundred miles. At that time we switched to syn. oil. Afrer returning home I changed when the maintance minder said it was time. The change to syn. is supposed to extend the interval, and improve gas mileage. We have'nt noticed any great change in the mileage. I am currently at 90% oil life and 11000 mi.. I have not noticed any consumption in my oil at this time.

The sales person told me 10,000 miles if you use synthetic oil. However that seems way too high. I talked with the service superviser and he advised that the oil life % will tell you when to change and it depends on your driving coditions. However he recommeded to change it 5,000 even if you still have plenty of oil life on the computer. However the manual says that you dont need to change it until the service light comes on at 15% oil life and its not good to change it when its not needed. So I'm also confused also on what to do. ANy thought form anyone else.

I love it RTL/Sunroof with running boards, fog lights, spash gaurds and bed extender.

As A licensed Technician and user of full synthetic oil in both my Ridgeline RTL and my 2002 GrandPrix GT. I will tell you that using the mileage monitor is what it is intended to be for. It will answer all your questions. My 02 GT has a monitor from GM as well and given that I drive mostly Highway I easily get over 10k and a couple of times over 11k between oil changes. Keep in mind you still have to check your levels. I regularly add about .5l at 5k to keep her full but the biggest benefit of using synthetic oil is that is will keep your internal engine components clean and varnish free. The Ridgeline was originally changed when we picked it up down south. At 37k miles. I just did its second oil service and its at 48k miles So the Honda monitor is giving me changes at aprox 5000 Miles intervals but it is also only driven in the city. When it goes out of town its usually towing a trailer in the summer. But what I am still pondering over is why I am changing the rear diff fluid every 15k kms as the fluid was the exact same color as what I put in and didn't smell any different.

Joe.

From what I understand there are at least three different "Honda" oil filters. The filter originally installed on the engine at the factory is a Japanese filter that's pretty good, but only available in Japan. In Canada they have yet a different filter. In the USA the filter we get at the Honda dealer is now made by Fram. I've read where two were disassembled and were nearly identical to the cheap Fram's.

One funny note... Wal-Mart is a big seller of Fram filters. They also have their own brand called SuperTech which I think is their lowest price filter. The SuperTech oil filter is a GREAT filter... made by Champion Labs and is far superior to the standard Fram filters.

Fram makes at least four filter lines. The standard Fram ExtraGuard filter (read junk), the ToughGuard filter (still junk), the DoubleGuard filter (contains PTFE resins... worse than junk), and the X2 ExtendedGuard filter (a very good filter).

In the case of Wal-Mart the cheap SuperTech filter is as good, or better than the Fram X2 ExtendedGuard filter. You can probably buy 3 SuperTech's for the price of one X2.

If I were to have my oil changed at a Honda dealer I would provide my own filter.

Good to know; for another tid-bit regarding Fram oil filters; they were banned by the Oregon Motorcycle Road Racing Organization where I used to race my bike. We were required to safety wire these oil filters to prevent them from turning/loosening but a few of them were popping right off the threads irregardless of being properly safety wired!