I don't know if this is common knowledge and maybe I just missed it but I thought I'd put it out there so someone else doesn't get hit the way I just did.

My Ridgeline, 2007, has steel valve stems and steel caps. Due to low outside temperatures, I have had two soft tire warnings. The first time was awhile ago and the valve cap was a bear to get off because of corrosion and road grime working it's way in. Yesterday morning it happened again with the same result. I was able to free up the cap and decided that I should check the other two in case I was ever somewhere I needed to put air in the tires. Both were worse than the first two. I cracked both valve stems trying to get the caps off. I wasn't using an abundance of muscle either, in fact it was minimal pressure.

This morning at the tire shop I received the unpleasant surprise on how much replacements cost as the sensors and stems are all one unit. The tire shop man told me this isn't an uncommon event and that in fact I was probably lucky to have gotten the first two off without cracking them as well. He said that whenever they get a vehicle in with metal caps that haven't become stuck to the valve stem, they always ask the owner if he'd like them replaced with the traditional plastic ones to avoid this.

The lesson is that had I known this was an issue, I could have replaced the metal ones for plastic for a couple bucks and saved myself a considerable sum of money. At a minimum, I would recommend that anyone with metal valve caps on their Ridgeline check to see if they are still able to get them off and if nothing else, put some kind of lubricant in them to avoid what happened to me.

along the same subject... some recent metal caps have plastic inserts to prevent this, but not all so you do have to confirm what you have if you like the style of metal caps.

I have metal caps with plastic inserts in them......

Anyone have a good source for bulk grey plastic stem caps with O ring inserts? With 4 cars and 6 or more bicycles in the family its a constant effort to keep caps around. Its been a while since I really looked, but at one point I was almost ready to spend ~25 plus shipping for a box of 500, but that seemed like overkill, but I could certainly see myself using 20 or 30 caps over a period.

I encountered this problem with the Tacoma I just sold to buy the Ridgeline. In my case, it was due to galvanic action (different metals in valve and cap + water + road salt). You may also have dissimilar metals in your case.

I anticipated the problem of destroying the stem. I used a pair of slip-joint pliers to grip the stem as close to the cap as possible, which let me crank away on the cap and break it free. I had to do this twice on all four wheels, worked every time. My stems were rubber but if yours are all-metal, a thin piece of rubber salvaged from an old bicycle tire tube can add grip and protect the stem from the pliers.

I read about this problem about two years ago and replaced the metal caps with some low cost plastic caps. I had forgotten all about this until I read this thread. :act002:

Anyone have a good source for bulk grey plastic stem caps with O ring inserts? With 4 cars and 6 or more bicycles in the family its a constant effort to keep caps around. Its been a while since I really looked, but at one point I was almost ready to spend ~25 plus shipping for a box of 500, but that seemed like overkill, but I could certainly see myself using 20 or 30 caps over a period.

There are metals ones that actually lock. They come with a special key.

They do claim they will not seize on the stems.

http://www.spin-caps.com/index.php?p=1_2

I'd forgotten about it too. But I had my N2 metal caps off a few days ago when I did my B1 service and had no issues.

Never heard of it as well. I get my oil changed at the dealership a couple times a year. They check TP thus exercising my caps. Perhaps not a bad idea to do a thirty-second walk around to loosen/tighten the caps.

It gives you another reason to admire the RL.:act006:

I don't know if this is common knowledge and maybe I just missed it but I thought I'd put it out there so someone else doesn't get hit the way I just did.

My Ridgeline, 2007, has steel valve stems and steel caps. Due to low outside temperatures, I have had two soft tire warnings. The first time was awhile ago and the valve cap was a bear to get off because of corrosion and road grime working it's way in. Yesterday morning it happened again with the same result. I was able to free up the cap and decided that I should check the other two in case I was ever somewhere I needed to put air in the tires. Both were worse than the first two. I cracked both valve stems trying to get the caps off. I wasn't using an abundance of muscle either, in fact it was minimal pressure.

This morning at the tire shop I received the unpleasant surprise on how much replacements cost as the sensors and stems are all one unit. The tire shop man told me this isn't an uncommon event and that in fact I was probably lucky to have gotten the first two off without cracking them as well. He said that whenever they get a vehicle in with metal caps that haven't become stuck to the valve stem, they always ask the owner if he'd like them replaced with the traditional plastic ones to avoid this.

The lesson is that had I known this was an issue, I could have replaced the metal ones for plastic for a couple bucks and saved myself a considerable sum of money. At a minimum, I would recommend that anyone with metal valve caps on their Ridgeline check to see if they are still able to get them off and if nothing else, put some kind of lubricant in them to avoid what happened to me.

You were lied to.... The TPMS unit on the RL is not a single unit. You can buy a rebuild kit for the tpms that replaces the stem portion... The cost of 4 rebuild kits would be less than one sensor... The valve stems are also aluminum not steel.

The '06 RL came with the metal caps and Honda did a recall to replace them with plastic due to exactly what you experienced.

Aren't the green N2 caps metal? Maybe not, but I thought they were. Now I'm not sure!

Aren't the green N2 caps metal? Maybe not, but I thought they were. Now I'm not sure!

They only have to be green, not metal. I believe they all have O ring seals.

http://www.extair.com/nitrogen-N2-valve-cap.html

http://veesun.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=196

check this out. Funny how you rationalize things, Id probably spend $15 for 500 but cant see purchasing 1000 for $20 +6 shipping, but I can almost use 10 caps off the bat between bicycles, wheelbarrows, hand trucks and such. I'm not so concerned with green implying Nitrogen, but blue seems appropriate for my blue truck.

That's funny, maybe someone screwed up and they were supposed to be green.
I can see the $15 though myself, if you have a fair amount of vehicles around.

At least three years ago now Honda sent me a little baggie with 4 plastic caps to replace the metal ones with.

I have metal caps on mine...and I am aware of the possible issues with metal caps, but I check my tire pressure at least once a month and, when I check the pressure, inspect/clean the metal caps, and spray them with lubricant before I put them back on...and I have not had any problems. Yeah, I do have the plastic caps on hand, as the guys at the local Honda garage took my metal caps off and put plastic ones on the last time I had my truck in for an oil change (and left the metal ones on the "not an ashtray"), but I like the look of the shiney metal caps, so that is why I have them on my valve stems.

I think if you are the type who never, or very seldom, checks the pressure on their tires, I would suggest putting the plastic caps on. If you are really anal about your tires/pressure, like I am, and you take the time to clean the stems/caps and lubricate them at least once a month, you should not have a problem with the metal caps.

Exactly what does the O-ring buy you? I've never seen any contamination in any schrader valve core when using run-of-the-mill (no O-ring) valve caps.

Roak

Exactly what does the O-ring buy you? I've never seen any contamination in any schrader valve core when using run-of-the-mill (no O-ring) valve caps.

Roak

I agree, I doubt it buys you much. Just another barrier that is likely overkill. Nitrogen is supposed to have even less leakage, so you would think it would be even less necessary. Maybe they want those who pay for N2 fillups to feel their investment has even more protection.

Nitrogen is supposed to have even less leakage...
Hmmmmm. Nitrogen is a smaller atom than oxygen. (http://www.bpc.edu/mathscience/chemistry/images/periodic_table_of_elements.jpg) I think all these "advantages" are dreamed up by the folks that are selling nitrogen :).

Yhea, if you're running a race car I can see using Nitrogen.

Roak

Ps. I like all the colors too. Medically, green is oxygen, not nitrogen (look at all the oxygen cylinders on the wheelchairs next time you're in a hospital). In the SCUBA industry yellow and green is "Nitrox" which has less N2 than air. I guess that makes nitrogen yellow in that case. This probably makes it good to be a SCUBA diver that wants to fill their tires with Nitrogen, because it gives you a place to put all the N2 you take out of your breathing gas :). Now if I could only find a cheap source for Helium!

Is WD-40 or silicone appropriate for lubricating the tire caps?

No question, for average automotive use (as in none salt flat use, etc) nitrogen doesn't buy you anything. I do like the idea of a quality cap that does a good job of providing a secondary seal. In my mind that means the cap has some rigidity and probably an O ring to assist in making a good seal especially for a vehicle that may drive in water that comes over the stem height as in the multitude of creek crossings when driving BLM roads. The grey oem caps that i have seen on TPMS equiped vehicles have an O ring or other rubber seal. For me the idea is just to keep water from seeping in and causing possible issues over time. I don't live in a snow zone, but seems you would especially want a good cap if you have a real winter. I'm not a nitrogen believer, and in the case of it being offered free from some vendors, I'd rather have $1.10 off.

It is my understanding that N2 molecules are in fact (very slightly) larger than O2. Even though the atomic weight of oxygen is greater. We could argue about that, but the fact is, the size is the least important aspect of all. Probably one of the best examples of where size does NOT make a real difference. lol

It is the simple fact that pure nitrogen is not readily available, that makes it a 'better' gas to use in tires.
Because it only comes in clean and pre-filled tanks under pressure, it is has fewer contaminants, and more importantly less moisture than the air around us which we can easily compress for free in our own garages, less the little bit we pay for the energy to drive a cheap compressor.
The only other advantage, is less variation with temperature, meaning fewer fillings. That is likely the real reason it appears to last longer than air in tires, not the molecular size.
So, while there is some data to support it's avantages, to me it is about as significant as to whether it is better to go with the Eveready bunny or the copper top battery.
Costco offers it for free with a new set of tires, but considering their tire prices are not always the best, I don't see much of a bargain there.
There are claims of 3% mileage improvements, tops. On all cars? Who knows? It certainly has practical disadvantages.

In general terms, if the "air we breathe" is 80% nitrogen, and the larger nitrogen molecule escapes slower, from a practical standpoint how many "regular" top ups does before the tire is basically filled with nitrogen. Do chemists in the group think I'm a misguided? Just wondering out loud and never mind learning from someone who really knows the facts.

I have metal caps on mine...and I am aware of the possible issues with metal caps, but I check my tire pressure at least once a month and, when I check the pressure, inspect/clean the metal caps, and spray them with lubricant before I put them back on...and I have not had any problems. Yeah, I do have the plastic caps on hand, as the guys at the local Honda garage took my metal caps off and put plastic ones on the last time I had my truck in for an oil change (and left the metal ones on the "not an ashtray"), but I like the look of the shiney metal caps, so that is why I have them on my valve stems.

I think if you are the type who never, or very seldom, checks the pressure on their tires, I would suggest putting the plastic caps on. If you are really anal about your tires/pressure, like I am, and you take the time to clean the stems/caps and lubricate them at least once a month, you should not have a problem with the metal caps.
Thats what I do to. Honda mailed me a set of plastic caps but I check tire pressure often so I havent had any issues. and Im in the major salt belt.:cheerleader:

In general terms, if the "air we breathe" is 80% nitrogen, and the larger nitrogen molecule escapes slower, from a practical standpoint how many "regular" top ups does before the tire is basically filled with nitrogen. Do chemists in the group think I'm a misguided? Just wondering out loud and never mind learning from someone who really knows the facts.

I've wondered the same and read that theory also in my 'travels'. As far as facts, there is no consistency at all, which is the only thing that is consistent in the whole discussion.
Other than the storage of N2 in a drier environment there does not seems to be much else in it's favor. Maybe if we used a 'drier' source of air we could basically cancel out any advantages at all? The whole scheme does not hold much more than 'air' anyway you look at it, does it?