I recently installed a K & N Air Filter, in one of the posts I answered, it was mentioned that there may be a problem using this filter. Does anyone know of or had a problem with this filter and if so what?:confused:

That person would be me. I would advise anyone not to get one. A few years ago I had a new Ford F150 with the 5.4 V-8. It ran as smooth as most newer V-8's and I enjoyed the truck almost as much as my Ridge. I babied it per my usual way and put the best oil I could find into it and drove like it was made of glass. Then one day I heard that using a K&N filter can increase your HP and improve mileage. What a deal I thought! I drove to my local store and purchased one. When I got home I pulled out the factory filter and trashed it, put in the 'fancy' new K&N, and read the instructions for cleaning and oiling the filter for future maintenance. Well, about a week later my truck started running funny. The idle was suddenly rough and uneven. It accelerated ok but whenever I sat at a stoplight the dang engine felt like a diesel truck. The dealer said that everything looked ok but I knew it wasn't the same as before. I did some internet searching and had found that many folks had had similar issues with their K&N filters as well. It turns out that the oiled filters can sometimes coat the delicate sensors that regulate the fuel/air mixture in newer vehicles. Apparently some of these filters can come from the factory with way too much oil on them and this is what causes this problem. But why, I asked, doesn't the manufacturer have better quality control checks to keep this problem from happening? K&N seems to deny any issues with their air filters but me and many others aren't lying. Even if it does come properly pre-oiled, later in it's life the consumer needs to clean and oil the thing, right? Well how much is the right amount without screwing up your intake sensors?? Anyway, my Ford ran fine after I removed the filter and cleaned the oil from the sensors. But to be honest it never seemed like it was ever as good as before in it's smoothness. All I know is I'll NEVER use another air filter from K&N. No way I'll risk my Ridge or any other vehicle with a rough idle. Oh yeah, the Ford didn't get any better MPG or perceivable HP gains while I had that junky filter on it either. I learned my lesson....do what you will and perhaps you'll do fine.:confused:

I'll second the don't do it!
Had an 04 Jeep wrangler & put on the K&N thinking oh great, better mileage & more HP. It along with a Borla exhaust system did give me more pep, nicer sound but the mileage went to crap... turns out with all the computer sensors and controls, you need to adjust, or in my case change them. When you offset the factory balance of what they set in the on board computers, other functions adjust themselves to try and make up the difference. Jeep told me I would have to modify the whole engine control system, as they had no fix.. I sold the jeep.
On the flip side, if you want performance, go for it...works great, just be prepared to spend extra bucks.... more than just a filter your buying

so what?:confused:

Might want to read this thread and a few others regarding air filtering: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2297

Especially post #11 by csimo. "The AC Delco filter allowed 0.4 grams of dirt to pass versus K&N's 7.0 grams.

If the OEM filter allows sufficient or greater air flow than the engine requires, whats the gain of the K&N filter other than letting dirt and contaminates into your engine and oil?

I put a K&N air filter on my twin turbo 3000GT-VR4 and it ran ok, although I didn't notice any better performance.
But after I cleaned it and re-oiled it according to K&N's instructions my car started missing, backfiring and idling rough. I suspect I contaminated the MAS and every induction sensor on the vehicle.
Removed the K&N and cleaned what I could and vehicle still dosen't run like it used to. Now I guess it's an expensive trip to the tech shop.

Removed the K&N from my motor home after it started acting up.

I'm going to leave well enough alone as the saying goes!

On the flip-side to your negative issues, I have been using K&N filters on my cars and motorcycles for about 10 years now... everytime i switch from the stock setup i notice a peppier throttle response.... never once did I experience any of the problems mentioned above. I even had the New 2005 Ford F-150 with the new 5.4 V-8...No problems after installing and waaay better throttle response.

Fact is user error do to over oiling the filter. Used K&N for years and no trouble with oil geting on the MAF sensor.

The oil actully traps more dirt the a dry filter.

Also not all paper filters are the same, the OEM filter is the best to run over a Fram.
Why the Fram chokes your engine.

Reason for the small HP increase with filter, leaner fuel maps.

I use the filter with, cat back and chip for best results.

Fact is user error

User error? Hardly my friend. It should be called "K&N company ERROR"
Like I said, it came from the factory that way and screwed up my sensors badly. The 'user' had nothing to do with it. And 'oiling' a filter isn't any kind of new, modern idea. It's actually old technology that can endanger the MAF sensor. No device or tool exists to tell just how much oil to slather onto the filter...too little and even more dirt gets through....too much and you've messed up the sensor.
And tests have shown that the K&N air filter ISN'T as good as others at trapping dirt.
Like I've said before, many people have had a lot of trouble with these filters. If you want to take a risk for little or zero HP and/or mileage gains, I would say go for it. Risk can be fun, right?

It's not user error normally.

Some engines have air flow sensors that are self cleaning (the wire heats up and burn off deposits), other sensors require a manual cleaning or replacement.

If an oiled filter will work long term depends on the sensor type. Filters that are not over oiled still produce fine droplets of oil and these can cost the MAS and cause the engine problems.

Anyways a filter that is more free flowing will only matter when you are at or near the redline and moving a lot of air through the engine.

Of course many people that have them swear by them but I wonder if it's more of a perceived improvement since they spent a lot of $$?

#1 K&N air filters have been proven time and again that they are not very good at filtering air. That's the number one priority of the filter and it doesn't get the job done. We know that more dirt entering your engine equals shorter engine life. Every time, no exceptions.

#2 The only possible way a K&N filter could increase horsepower is if the OEM filter was not capable of flowing enough air for the engine. This has never been proven in ANY WAY on the Ridgeline or most other modern engines.

Those same larger holes in the K&N filter that let dirt get into your engine also let sound out. You can usually hear a difference when a K&N filter is installed. Many people think that because they can hear the difference they can also feel the difference. If it sounds faster it must really be faster... right? Wrong.

I would suggest that if you think a K&N air filter makes your vehicle faster then no filter at all would make it faster yet. Just pull the filter and forget it. In reality you may do better with no filter at all than an oiled filter.

You might get better fuel flow if you remove your fuel filter too.

Maybe if you remove the air and fuel filters, then put one of those tornado things in your intake, and magnets to align the fuel molecules just right, you could turn the Ridgeline into a full race truck! Don't forget to pull the spark plugs and install Fire Injectors, or Split Fires before taking it to the track.

It's really a shame how correct PT Barnum was.

-Joe

At least one born every minute.:D

Csimo,

Could you please feel free to express yourself next time? This holding back and being shy thing is getting tiresome!!! Lol!:D And just so you know....I agree with you 100%.

Well you see I've got major problems here! Gasoline everywhere and I don't know what to do about it.

It all started with the K&N air filter. They said up to 10% better fuel mileage and more power too.

Then I found these fuel magnets... another 10% they said... so I installed two sets of them. I put one set backwards of the other so all my fuel molecules would have to not only align properly the first time, but turn completely around mid stream and re-align the other way. I felt the fuel molecules would then be perfectly aligned. I figured that 10% + 10% must equal 20%. I have a third set of magnets in reserve just in case.

Then I decided to switch to Amsoil. I figured if I could make my engine slippery enough it would be great. Another 10% and no more nasty oil changes needed.

Then I found out about a guy that told me about the Tornado. That one said it would save me 28% in fuel, not to mention the 20 extra horsepower.

This is where my problems really got serious. I was headed down the interstate when I noticed that gasoline was spewing out of my fuel filler cap. I was saving so much fuel that the tank was actually overflowing!

This was sad because I had more fuel to save. I hadn't yet installed my SplitFire spark plugs, water wetter, or super slippery polymer speed polish. There was also this resistor thing that promised better horsepower and better fuel mileage, but what am I going to do with all this gasoline?

So now I'm suck with a 550 horsepower Ridgeline that spews out extra gasoline every time I start the engine. How do you measure your gas mileage when so much is running down the side of the truck? I seem to be going thru tires pretty quick too. Not sure if the power is burning them off or the gasoline is eating them up. Either way I'm supporting lot's of French Michelin workers.

I'm afraid to park my truck out in the open. I'm thinking the CIA must be looking to remove all my fuel savings devices. They probably think I found one of those 200MPG carburetors on eBay. You can't be too careful.

For those interested all my mods only cost me $159.16. Just think how great the Ridgeline would sell if Honda just spent the same at the factory? They couldn't keep Ridgeline's in stock. I guess those Honda engineers don't have a clue how to make these engines run on so much less fuel.

When the engine starts to wear out (300,000 miles or so) I have some of these magic engine rebuilding pellets that you just throw into the gas tank. Problem is that I don't know how to get those into the tank with so much coming back out when the engine is running. It just won't keep them down.

So now you can understand my problems. I'm just trying to keep all of you from ending up in the same situation I'm in.

Gotta run. I'm off to Wal-Mart to see if they've got any after Christmas specials on gas cans.

-Joe

This just in! Honda just contacted me in response to my previous message.

I'm sorry to report that I WAS WRONG. All of this is already built into the Ridgline, but you do in fact need to have a K&N air filter to take advantage of them.

I'm going to blow the lid off this one. Here goes.

If you press the cruise control button for ten seconds, let up for ten seconds, then hold it in for another two minutes and forty seconds while tuning to 1710 on the AM dial you will enable the Honda Ridgline / Full Race / Super Economy mode. However to take advantage of this mode you must replace the OEM air filter with a K&N filter... double oiled.

Enjoy.

-Joe

Csimo-- Don't throw any cigarette butts out your window or you might set off an after-burner :eek:

cismo, that's the most amusing set of posts I've read in a long time. You've got a great imagination and story telling ability. Thanks for the smile. Gotta run and get my K&N right now. . .

Here's another inside secret. If you double oil the K&N with Amsoil, it does some pretty amazing things, only one of which is that it makes the K&N glow in the dark - butt only if you stick it where the sun doesn't shine!

Csimo, you're pretty good when you get fired up! :D
Seems to me I've seen oil wetted air filters somewhere before. Oh yeah, weren't they standard equipment back in the 30's and 40's before those nasty paper filters started being used?

You all crack me up.

Being insane anal, I change my paper filters way to often. Which end up in the landfill. SO I prefer cleanable filters.
Again properly installed the filter will NOT hurt the engine.
FYI there is more the one oil style filter on the market.

Never said you get huge gains.
The big secret is its a combination of mods to a end result.
(I use the same dyno for proof and 1/4 times)

Like I said, user error is the blame majority of the time.
Blame stems from lack of reading instructions and common sense........


The Mechanic

Well you see I've got major problems here! Gasoline everywhere and I don't know what to do about it.

It all started with the K&N air filter. They said up to 10% better fuel mileage and more power too.

Then I found these fuel magnets... another 10% they said... so I installed two sets of them. I put one set backwards of the other so all my fuel molecules would have to not only align properly the first time, but turn completely around mid stream and re-align the other way. I felt the fuel molecules would then be perfectly aligned. I figured that 10% + 10% must equal 20%. I have a third set of magnets in reserve just in case.

Then I decided to switch to Amsoil. I figured if I could make my engine slippery enough it would be great. Another 10% and no more nasty oil changes needed.

Then I found out about a guy that told me about the Tornado. That one said it would save me 28% in fuel, not to mention the 20 extra horsepower.

This is where my problems really got serious. I was headed down the interstate when I noticed that gasoline was spewing out of my fuel filler cap. I was saving so much fuel that the tank was actually overflowing!

This was sad because I had more fuel to save. I hadn't yet installed my SplitFire spark plugs, water wetter, or super slippery polymer speed polish. There was also this resistor thing that promised better horsepower and better fuel mileage, but what am I going to do with all this gasoline?

So now I'm suck with a 550 horsepower Ridgeline that spews out extra gasoline every time I start the engine. How do you measure your gas mileage when so much is running down the side of the truck? I seem to be going thru tires pretty quick too. Not sure if the power is burning them off or the gasoline is eating them up. Either way I'm supporting lot's of French Michelin workers.

I'm afraid to park my truck out in the open. I'm thinking the CIA must be looking to remove all my fuel savings devices. They probably think I found one of those 200MPG carburetors on eBay. You can't be too careful.

For those interested all my mods only cost me $159.16. Just think how great the Ridgeline would sell if Honda just spent the same at the factory? They couldn't keep Ridgeline's in stock. I guess those Honda engineers don't have a clue how to make these engines run on so much less fuel.

When the engine starts to wear out (300,000 miles or so) I have some of these magic engine rebuilding pellets that you just throw into the gas tank. Problem is that I don't know how to get those into the tank with so much coming back out when the engine is running. It just won't keep them down.

So now you can understand my problems. I'm just trying to keep all of you from ending up in the same situation I'm in.

Gotta run. I'm off to Wal-Mart to see if they've got any after Christmas specials on gas cans.

-Joe

Gsimo:

You have my vote for the post of the year.

LOL in San Juan Cap
Tom

;) Csimo.....I hear you're on Letterman tonight.....is this true?

Lol...I love it!!

I used K&N in my motorcycles and ATV's in the 70's & 80's. But those were in the days of two-stroke (reeded) engines and carbureted engines. When you could also change jets and needles, adjust valves, timing and gain a few more Horses. Since the advent of electronic ignitions and all the computer controlled modules in today’s modern cars... you're asking for trouble! Increased wear on engine and exhaust systems, poor performance (usually), poor GAS MILAGE, voided warranty, just to name a few.

I'm no Rocket Surgeon, though I did stay at a Holliday Inn Express last night, but I give those guys a Honda a bunch of credit! If they thought a K&N filter was better than what they had available, they would have contracted with K&N for filter rights, likewise with exhaust systems, after-market computer chips, brake systems you name it. Honda built it they way you bought it for a reason. Give it a few years till Honda does more off-road and aftermarket testing, you'll know about it because those companies will have their names all over Honda race vehicles.

But, to each their own... when I bought my Ridgeline it came with tires and wheels and the tires should last at least 40K miles and the wheels for at least the life of the truck, so spending $4K on tires and wheels or any other part that came on the Ridge from the factory is $$$$ that I'd rather put into my portfolio, IMHO.

TL

I tried to order a K&N for the ridgeline, but at there web site it says not available! Some guy cismo bought them all !
Cismo.... I'll 2nd the vote for post of the year! Great reply:D

CSI reveals your MO is to make me LMAO, csimo.:D

there is another filter almost similar in performance as K&N filter, i think its called Green something, well anyways its similar to K&N filter but doesn't require oil after cleaning. Need to do more research on this filter, a friend of a friend recommended this filter since i'm hesitant of switching after "let say" breaking my MAS chip in the intake after the airfilter from excess oil after cleaning the filter on my VW Passat. $450.00 ouch to replace tax & labor. Also, do not go to foam route, foam or sponge looking filter are worst than K&N filters and they restrict air flow. my 2cent.

I'll be 3rd in line for the vote.

that was a great post.:p

Thanks,

Eric

I seem to be going thru tires pretty quick too. Not sure if the power is burning them off or the gasoline is eating them up. Either way I'm supporting lot's of French Michelin workers. I think the LTX is made in the U.S. Also, the K&N works best if you use snake oil with it. :D

Apexi Power Intake is one of the best filters out there. Not sure if Apexi makes one for the RL. I have noticed on some vehicles the K&N (cone) will cause stalling due to cavitation (MAF sensor errors) and requires the Duck Tape fix.

I went with AEM filter, dry syn cone.

Never had issues with K&N, MAF is self cleaning and I don't over oil it !

You don't need to over oil it...sometimes the factory will do that for ya!:eek: