:confused:

Hello,

I have had my RL about 6 weeks, it has 1300 miles on it. On Monday it started making a very loud grinding noise coming from the rear of the truck. I called the dealer and they towed it in. The service advisor told me the bolts on the bracket that support the drive shaft had backed out. He said it didn't cause any damage because I was driving slow when it happened. The dealer has been waiting for the new bolts to be "over nighted" since Tuesday. I called this morning and still no bolts.

Has anyone else experienced this problem.

Thanks.

I believe this is first notice in this forum of your particular problem. Thanks for the heads up. When you get it fixed, see if they will tell you the proper torque setting for the bolts and we can check them ourselves on our trucks to avoid your misfortune.

The dealer just called and said my RL was ready for pick up. I'll post the details of the repair listed on the service ticket. I'll ask about the the torque for the bolts also.

Just picked the truck up from the dealer. The service ticket says:

Cause: Driveshaft bracket bolts loose Operation: 219199 1.3 hours

Correction: Installed two new bolts, checked torque setting to spec

Parts: 2 SPD 90382-SH9-003 Flange Bolts ( 10 x 29)

The service advisor said the bolts must have not been properly torqued from the factory. He didn't know how much torque is supposed to be used. He also said there would have been a lot of damage if I had been going faster.

Hope this is an isolated problem.

The service advisor said the bolts must have not been properly torqued from the factory. He didn't know how much torque is supposed to be used. He also said there would have been a lot of damage if I had been going faster.

Hope this is an isolated problem.I hope the service technician knew what the torque should be...otherwise, how would he fix it properly? :confused:

Driveshafts spin at high RPMs and can easily come through the floor board if they break loose. Good thing you got it fixed.

Just curious, was it the bolts that hold the center bearing on in the center of the driveshaft, or the flange at the rear? From your description, it sounds like the center bearing bolts.

The way the dealer explained it to me it was the 2 bolts at the rear of the driveshaft where the U-joint meets the differential.

When I got home I crawled under the truck with a flashlight and those two bolts look new.

I just hope it is fixed for good. I've never had a driveshaft let go, but I don't think it would be a good thing. :eek:

The way the dealer explained it to me it was the 2 bolts at the rear of the driveshaft where the U-joint meets the differential.

When I got home I crawled under the truck with a flashlight and those two bolts look new.

I just hope it is fixed for good. I've never had a driveshaft let go, but I don't think it would be a good thing. :eek:Looked like 4 bolts to me going into the differential, unless I'm missing something. Mine looked new too...nice and shiny and they've been there since April.

1.3 hours to tighten two bolts? :eek: And did not know the torque setting, double :eek:

Swampler-

I crawled back under and you are right, there are 4 bolts there. It is hard to see because the muffler is on one side and the gas tank on the other.

I looked at the entire driveshaft and now I'm thinking it might have been in the middle of the driveshaft where there is a U hanger. It looks like some kind of joint or bearing where two halves of the driveshaft join.

I'm not sure, but that is my best guess.


Thanks for your input.

I'll have to check mine. thanks for posting the problem!

Swampler-

I crawled back under and you are right, there are 4 bolts there. It is hard to see because the muffler is on one side and the gas tank on the other.

I looked at the entire driveshaft and now I'm thinking it might have been in the middle of the driveshaft where there is a U hanger. It looks like some kind of joint or bearing where two halves of the driveshaft join.

I'm not sure, but that is my best guess.


Thanks for your input.That "U hanger" is the center bearing I was referring to in my earlier post. The company I work for makes driveshafts, but not for Honda. I can probably find out what torque Toyota and/or Nissan uses, which would probably work for the Honda, even if it isn't exactly the same.

These look like the Propellar shaft flange bolts as seen in Majestic Honda Web site parts buying guide. The bolts are $2.85 each and they look like they are holding up a pretty important bracket. Here is a picture from the site. Parts number from your work order match the description on Majestic site.

These were the 2 bolts marked "5" in the middle of the 2 piece shaft.

Those are the Center Support Bearing Mounting Bolts and for those that want to check for peace of mind, they should be tightened to 39 N-m (29 lbf-ft)

Those are the Center Support Bearing Mounting Bolts and for those that want to check for peace of mind, they should be tightened to 39 N-m (29 lbf-ft)I see someone has the service manual! :D

I never leave home without it.

The most dangerous drive shaft failure is the front joint at the transmission. If the drive shaft fails at that joint, the forward momentum of the vehicle can force the drive shaft up through the floor or physically lift the vehicle. If the center support fails, the drive shaft whips around irratically, causes a lot of noise and is usually repaired with no substantial damage. If the back joint fails, the drive shaft usally fallls off or just drags across the ground.

The RL has the two U shaped brackets shown in the diagram above to prevent the propeller shaft from whipping about or dragging should a coupler break or become unbolted.

That's interesting the 29 LB torque rating. Part of the parts number involved a notation that says 10x29. I wonder if that represents the torque rating. many of the bolts and parts have all different numbers but in this range like 10x27, etc....

The 10x29 is probably a 10mm dia. bolt 29mm long.

1.3 hours to tighten two bolts? :eek: And did not know the torque setting, double :eek:


heh.. i called trying to get a torque spec for the 2 rear bolts than go through the radiator supports and into the front subframe.. dealer didnt know that either :eek: