I started to install my new hitch and harness this afternoon. I guess if I would have realized how constrained it was down there under the dash and steering column, I may have considered paying to have it installed. Those that have ventured under the dash to install the various relays and harnesses of the trailer harness kit know what I'm talking about.

I suppose the fact that I'm fifty with a chronic back problem and poor "up close" vision probably contributed a lot to my problems too! I definitely taught anyone within hearing distance a couple of new cuss words this afternoon!

Note to Honda... Please install everything under the dash related to the trailer hitch wiring during assembly. I'll pay the $20-$30 additional up front, rather than having to "stand on my head" to install it in my driveway, after the fact!

Now that I've got my whining out of the way, I'll offer the following suggestion.

Once you complete all of the under dash modifications, the instructions have you go under the back bumper at the left end to remove the tape and free up the vehicle 10-pin connector. You have to reach up between the trunk body and the rear inner fender and try to cut a strip of tape to free up the 18" harness with the 10 pin connector. On mine at least, I could barely get my hand up to the tape to cut it. And when I did, only about 4" or so of the harness came loose! :mad: (More cussin!!)

I spent about an hour or so trying to carefully sneak my hand up into this restricted area to see what was holding the rest of the harness from coming loose. I also tried using an extension mirror and a bent coat hanger and various other tools, with no luck.

I finally calmed down and thought it through and ended up removing the Torx bolts from the left side bed wall. I was able to carefully flext the wall enough to see down past it and saw a clear view of the harness. Sure enough, there was an additional loop of tape on the harness, beyond my initial view and reach. I cut it and freed up the remainder of the harness.

You need a T40 and T50 Torx bit to remove the necessary fasteners on the left bed wall and a phillips screwdriver to remove the bed rail cap.

For what it's worth, here's a picture of the bed wall flexed out enough to reach down in there and free up the harness. I tried to take a picture down into the opening to show the harness, but couldn't get my camera to cooperate.

The next step after finishing my hitch installation tomorrow is to give my RL an overdue "bath". :)

JB

I hear you about the 2nd tape location in the rear that you can't see or feel. I struggled for some time and it finally broke loose.

I started to install my new hitch and harness this afternoon. I guess if I would have realized how constrained it was down there under the dash and steering column, I may have considered paying to have it installed. Those that have ventured under the dash to install the various relays and harnesses of the trailer harness kit know what I'm talking about.

I suppose the fact that I'm fifty with a chronic back problem and poor "up close" vision probably contributed a lot to my problems too! I definitely taught anyone within hearing distance a couple of new cuss words this afternoon!

Note to Honda... Please install everything under the dash related to the trailer hitch wiring during assembly. I'll pay the $20-$30 additional up front, rather than having to "stand on my head" to install it in my driveway, after the fact!

Now that I've got my whining out of the way, I'll offer the following suggestion.

Once you complete all of the under dash modifications, the instructions have you go under the back bumper at the left end to remove the tape and free up the vehicle 10-pin connector. You have to reach up between the trunk body and the rear inner fender and try to cut a strip of tape to free up the 18" harness with the 10 pin connector. On mine at least, I could barely get my hand up to the tape to cut it. And when I did, only about 4" or so of the harness came loose! :mad: (More cussin!!)

I spent about an hour or so trying to carefully sneak my hand up into this restricted area to see what was holding the rest of the harness from coming loose. I also tried using an extension mirror and a bent coat hanger and various other tools, with no luck.

I finally calmed down and thought it through and ended up removing the Torx bolts from the left side bed wall. I was able to carefully flext the wall enough to see down past it and saw a clear view of the harness. Sure enough, there was an additional loop of tape on the harness, beyond my initial view and reach. I cut it and freed up the remainder of the harness.

You need a T40 and T50 Torx bit to remove the necessary fasteners on the left bed wall and a phillips screwdriver to remove the bed rail cap.

For what it's worth, here's a picture of the bed wall flexed out enough to reach down in there and free up the harness. I tried to take a picture down into the opening to show the harness, but couldn't get my camera to cooperate.

The next step after finishing my hitch installation tomorrow is to give my RL an overdue "bath". :)

JB

I cut the first tape band and tugged slowly until the second tape band tore loose at the rear connector. The under dash was easier to get to and I was able to unwrap the harnesses easily..

I cut the first tape band and tugged slowly until the second tape band tore loose at the rear connector. The under dash was easier to get to and I was able to unwrap the harnesses easily..


I tugged on my to get it loose too, not knowing for sure that there was another piece of tape holding it. I was a little nervous that I was tugging on something that should not have been tugged on.

What Honda is doing is nothing unusual. This is the way cars are manufactured these days. Their best worked on by folks with the right tools, and tiny bodies. :D

In contrast, I can sit in the engine bay of my 1978 Ford F150 4x4 and the fuse box is exposed and bolted into the driver's footwell. :eek:

That second bit of tape would NOT come loose. I knew it was there before we installed our hitch (thanks to the pioneer ROCers who posted detailed instructions and frustrations) yet even with the great stength of my young nephew, it wouldn't break free. We shortened the path to the harness and made do.

If you have power seats, be sure to push the driver's seat all the way to the back before you disconnect the battery. Someone even said they left the battery hooked up, but we complied with that direction. It was a very tight and uncomfortable squeeze looking up under the dash and that additional couple of inches would have helped but not made it pleasant.

This is still a good DIY project if you don't have a lot of discretionary cash to throw at hiring out your jobs.

In contrast, I can sit in the engine bay of my 1978 Ford F150 4x4 and the fuse box is exposed and bolted into the driver's footwell. :eek:

Had a '79 F150 with a straight-6 and 3 on the tree as a teenager. I know what you mean about sitting in the engine bay.

I was very surprised at the amount of free space in the RL engine compartment, especially compared to my current Ford Focus and just traded Astro van.

Mark