Any tips on using a PAC SWI-ALP steering wheel control box?

I plan to install the SWI-ALP this weekend. I'm using an Alpine hu.

Any tips on using the SWI-ALP? The installation notes say a resistor is required between White and Black, but then says a resistor might be required at all?

??

Any real world experience appreciated.

I plan to install the SWI-ALP this weekend. I'm using an Alpine hu.

Any tips on using the SWI-ALP? The installation notes say a resistor is required between White and Black, but then says a resistor might be required at all?

??

Any real world experience appreciated.
Are you looking to use the steering wheel controls on an aftermarket radio ? If so, go with the SWI-X. I used it on my pioneer unit, and it works pretty good. You have to use a resistor (I think it was a 5100k or so). I got one from Radio Shack for like $2. The way it works is that the buttons on the steering wheel send resistance values to the OEM head unit. Each button has a specific value, and the OEM radio translates each value into a specific function. When you use an aftermarket radio, the PAC (SWI) unit takes the resistance value and translates it into an infra-red signal that the new HU picks up. The resistor is needed to "prime" (for lack of a better word) the PAC unit with a known resistance value. It can then easily tell the difference between the resistance value of each steering wheel button when pressed, and use it to generate the infra-red signal for your Alpine HU. Also, make sure you find a good spot for the new transmitter "eye" so the Alpine unit can see it.....

The SWI-ALP functions like the SWI-X, but plugs directly into steering wheel enabled headunits. The Alpine headunit I have (the CDA-9853) has a minijack on the rear - and the SWI-ALP plugs directly into it. So it doesn't use infrared at all. Otherwise I imagine the two devices work the same. They just communicate to the headunit differently.

So you DID use the 5100 ohm resistor? That is the same value specified for my unit. Did you also ground wire #8 like it says?

The SWI-ALP functions like the SWI-X, but plugs directly into steering wheel enabled headunits. The Alpine headunit I have (the CDA-9853) has a minijack on the rear - and the SWI-ALP plugs directly into it. So it doesn't use infrared at all. Otherwise I imagine the two devices work the same. They just communicate to the headunit differently.

So you DID use the 5100 ohm resistor? That is the same value specified for my unit. Did you also ground wire #8 like it says?

Yep - I needed the resistor and ground to #8 wire. Yours plugs into the HU ?? Way cool............

Did you have to program both preset up/down and track up/down? Or just program preset up/down and the headunit automatically handled it?

Did you have to program both preset up/down and track up/down? Or just program preset up/down and the headunit automatically handled it?

I had to program all buttons. Vol up/down, mode (I used for a "source" button), and CH up/down.

After you programmed ch up/down did your Alpine process it as track up/down when you were playing CDs?

After you programmed ch up/down did your Alpine process it as track up/down when you were playing CDs?

I have a Pioneer, not Alpine. I programmed my CH Up/Down to change my presets on my FM, and the Sirius tuner. It does not switch tracks. I could program it to switch tracks, but I use the Sirius more than my CD player, so it works for me.

Mine is installed. I programmed vol up/down, source (mode), and preset up/down. When playing CDs, the preset up/down do not work. When playing MP3 CDs, the preset up/down work as folder up/down. I tried without the resistor but mode did not work. It worked fine with the 5100 ohm resistor.

Mine is installed. I programmed vol up/down, source (mode), and preset up/down. When playing CDs, the preset up/down do not work. When playing MP3 CDs, the preset up/down work as folder up/down. I tried without the resistor but mode did not work. It worked fine with the 5100 ohm resistor.

Cool.......maybe if you play with the programming, you can get it to work. Also remember, the button on your Alpine for track +/- has different fuctions based on what source you are currently using (AM/FM , CD , etc). Your current program will probably switch through your am/fm presets.
You can fool with the programming to get it to work they way you wish, but you may have to sacrifice funtions on one source....

Mine is installed. I programmed vol up/down, source (mode), and preset up/down. When playing CDs, the preset up/down do not work. When playing MP3 CDs, the preset up/down work as folder up/down. I tried without the resistor but mode did not work. It worked fine with the 5100 ohm resistor.

Did the PAC SWI-ALP end up working for you? Which Alpine head unit did you use with it. I just emailed Crutchfield and they said that there was no PAC converter that would work with the Ridgeline. I am looking at getting the Alpine CDA-9857. According to the PAC website this hu is compatible.

My installer used the 3900 ohm resistor with my Pioneer HU. Seems to work fine.

First and foremost, don't trust what Crutchfield says. They told me the Ridgeline could not accomidate a double DIN HU...we know how wrong this is. I would suggest that you go to the PAC website to verify compatibility of the HU and the RL. Here is a quick link (http://www.pac-audio.com/products/productsCatagory.asp?mmSearch=Steering%20Wheel%20I nterface) for you. Hope this helps. :cool:

First and foremost, don't trust what Crutchfield says. They told me the Ridgeline could not accomidate a double DIN HU...we know how wrong this is. I would suggest that you go to the PAC website to verify compatibility of the HU and the RL. Here is a quick link (http://www.pac-audio.com/products/productsCatagory.asp?mmSearch=Steering%20Wheel%20I nterface) for you. Hope this helps. :cool:

Well, I know the HU is compatible. It just made me nervous that the Crutchfield guy said there was nothing that could be done. I was skeptical because of everything I've read on these boards.

Yeah, the crutchfield guys told me my USA Spec HON2 Ipod adapter didnt work with factory HU, and it worked perfectly, right out of the box!

Did the PAC SWI-ALP end up working for you? Which Alpine head unit did you use with it. I just emailed Crutchfield and they said that there was no PAC converter that would work with the Ridgeline. I am looking at getting the Alpine CDA-9857. According to the PAC website this hu is compatible.

I don't know what is going on with Crutchfield. I bought my Alpine CDA-9853 and SWI-ALP from Crutchfield. They recommended the combination.

It works well, but is limited just a bit by the few controls on the RL. The PAC unit's versatility is limited mostly by the headunit. The RTL factory unit treats the up/down button as radio preset up/down when the radio is on, and track up/down when in CD. The Alpine wants a unique signal for those functions. So if you program the PAC for radio preset up/down, when in CD the Alpine treats it as MP3 folder up/down, not CD track skip up/down.

I wish the RL had another pair of up/down type switches plus a mute button. The PAC could handle it if the switches were there.

But the PAC is good enough. I may reprogram it the next time I open the dash because I need track skip more than I need radio preset up/down.

I think the PAC says a particular resistor may be required with the RL. Well in my experience it IS required. Don't waste your time trying it without the resistor.

I don't know what is going on with Crutchfield. I bought my Alpine CDA-9853 and SWI-ALP from Crutchfield. They recommended the combination.

It works well, but is limited just a bit by the few controls on the RL. The PAC unit's versatility is limited mostly by the headunit. The RTL factory unit treats the up/down button as radio preset up/down when the radio is on, and track up/down when in CD. The Alpine wants a unique signal for those functions. So if you program the PAC for radio preset up/down, when in CD the Alpine treats it as MP3 folder up/down, not CD track skip up/down.

I wish the RL had another pair of up/down type switches plus a mute button. The PAC could handle it if the switches were there.

But the PAC is good enough. I may reprogram it the next time I open the dash because I need track skip more than I need radio preset up/down.

I think the PAC says a particular resistor may be required with the RL. Well in my experience it IS required. Don't waste your time trying it without the resistor.

Where did you purchase the "resistor" from?

The PAC unit comes with everything you need. The RL is not the only vehicle that needs resistors so the PAC includes several.

I just put in my 9857 deck with ipod and am hopefully tying in my swi-alp in a few hours so I should be able to answer my own question but here goes.

It looks like the wiring is all paralell for these devices, so pressing two buttons at once would theoretically change resistance enough (if using a 5k pullup resistor) to create an alternative function?

The values are also all different, so mixing and matching buttons (good luck remembering :o ) would result in different 'functions' to the unit.

here are the values for anyone interested, and fyi there is a 10k resistor across the leads to start with and from there, in parallel are:
vol down - 100ohm
vol up - 270ohm
chan d. - 470ohm
chan u. - 1.2k ohm
mode - 3.9k ohm

I just want to create a 'mute' so that I do not have to wire a latching relay to my flash hi-beam output to the interrupt mute on the deck itself.


Anyways...I'll let you know, hopefully the weather and local law enforcement (its like 2130 here :D) is still cooperating when I get off call here in a bit...

Also just checking around to see if PAC had anything to say on the issue (they don't) but here is a link to the pac-audio installation site for the ridgeline (http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogramming/showstepbystep.asp?RadioGroupPioneer=0&InterfaceChecked=2&mmSearch=Honda&Submit2=Search+Vehicles&ID=383).

If that one doesen't work, go here and select the appropriate options: http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogramming

I don't know what is going on with Crutchfield. I bought my Alpine CDA-9853 and SWI-ALP from Crutchfield. They recommended the combination.

It works well, but is limited just a bit by the few controls on the RL. The PAC unit's versatility is limited mostly by the headunit. The RTL factory unit treats the up/down button as radio preset up/down when the radio is on, and track up/down when in CD. The Alpine wants a unique signal for those functions. So if you program the PAC for radio preset up/down, when in CD the Alpine treats it as MP3 folder up/down, not CD track skip up/down.

I wish the RL had another pair of up/down type switches plus a mute button. The PAC could handle it if the switches were there.

But the PAC is good enough. I may reprogram it the next time I open the dash because I need track skip more than I need radio preset up/down.

I think the PAC says a particular resistor may be required with the RL. Well in my experience it IS required. Don't waste your time trying it without the resistor.

OK, I have a couple questions. This is the first time I attempt to install a steering wheel converter. I started doing the install of the PAC SWI-ALP yesterday with my Alpine 9857. I have a couple questions. First, how and where do you attach the resister? Second, where did you put the PAC-ALP converter? I was thinking inside the dash. The instructions mention something about the infared needing to be exposed but that didn't make sense to me given that there is a direct line to the head unit and the steering wheel. Third, does anything need to be done with the second wire coming from the steering wheel? I connected the SWI-ALP white wire to the, I believe it was green / red but nothing is mentioned in the instructions about the second wire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm trying to get it right the first time. My install is pretty involved.

My poor Ridge has been in the garage in pieces for a week while I install everything. It's a huge job for one person especially trying to do it at night after work. I didn't want to do it piece meal and have to go through pulling off panels multiple times. It's going to be great once it done though.

Thanks for the help

OK, I have a couple questions. This is the first time I attempt to install a steering wheel converter. I started doing the install of the PAC SWI-ALP yesterday with my Alpine 9857. I have a couple questions. First, how and where do you attach the resister? Second, where did you put the PAC-ALP converter? I was thinking inside the dash. The instructions mention something about the infared needing to be exposed but that didn't make sense to me given that there is a direct line to the head unit and the steering wheel. Third, does anything need to be done with the second wire coming from the steering wheel? I connected the SWI-ALP white wire to the, I believe it was green / red but nothing is mentioned in the instructions about the second wire. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I'm trying to get it right the first time. My install is pretty involved.

My poor Ridge has been in the garage in pieces for a week while I install everything. It's a huge job for one person especially trying to do it at night after work. I didn't want to do it piece meal and have to go through pulling off panels multiple times. It's going to be great once it done though.

Thanks for the help

If you are using the SWI-ALP - there is no infrared at all. Some PAC units enable steering wheel controls by installing an infrared transmitter inside the vehicle and sending infrared signals to control volume (etc.). With the Alpine you are using a wired interface, which is faster and more reliable.

I connected the resistor using splice caps. Get small ones since the resistor wire is thin.

I wrapped some non-sticky foam around the unit and it simply sits inside the dash behind the head unit.

I'm traveling so I don't have access to my notes and instructions on the unit wiring - but I remember that the PAC instructions for the Ridgeline were right on. Except the part where the resistor "might" be required. It is DEFINITELY required.

If you are using the SWI-ALP - there is no infrared at all. Some PAC units enable steering wheel controls by installing an infrared transmitter inside the vehicle and sending infrared signals to control volume (etc.). With the Alpine you are using a wired interface, which is faster and more reliable.

I connected the resistor using splice caps. Get small ones since the resistor wire is thin.

I wrapped some non-sticky foam around the unit and it simply sits inside the dash behind the head unit.

I'm traveling so I don't have access to my notes and instructions on the unit wiring - but I remember that the PAC instructions for the Ridgeline were right on. Except the part where the resistor "might" be required. It is DEFINITELY required.

So you just stripped some of the insulation off the middle of the wire and stuck it in a cap with the end of the resistor?

So you just stripped some of the insulation off the middle of the wire and stuck it in a cap with the end of the resistor?

I admit I don't remember exactly how the resistor is used. But I would not have done what you described. If the resistor was supposed to go the "middle" of a wire - I would have cut the wire, stripped it a bit where I cut it, twisted the two wires together, then crimped in a splice cap with the resistor wire.

This is how (http://pac-audio.com/swixprogramming/showstepbystep.asp?RadioGroupPioneer=0&InterfaceChecked=1&mmSearch=Honda&Submit2=Search+Vehicles&ID=383)I connected my resistor for my PAC unit. I have it connected to a Pioneer HU. I soldered the connections. Hope this helps. :cool:

This is how (http://pac-audio.com/swixprogramming/showstepbystep.asp?RadioGroupPioneer=0&InterfaceChecked=1&mmSearch=Honda&Submit2=Search+Vehicles&ID=383)I connected my resistor for my PAC unit. I have it connected to a Pioneer HU. I soldered the connections. Hope this helps. :cool:

I have those instructions as well. I have to admit that I'm not all that skilled at soldering so I'm looking for another alternative.

Can I get away w/ caping the resistor and the wire together?

Can I get away w/ caping the resistor and the wire together?

I don't see why not. The only issue you may run into is that the connection may loosen over time. The resistor ends are like very thin paper clips. If you trust your connection it should not be a problem. I soldered the connections to avoid a loose connection in the future. When you make your connection, give it a tug and see if comes loose.:cool:

I don't see why not. The only issue you may run into is that the connection may loosen over time. The resistor ends are like very thin paper clips. If you trust your connection it should not be a problem. I soldered the connections to avoid a loose connection in the future. When you make your connection, give it a tug and see if comes loose.:cool:

I think I'll try that. Probably will cap it off then tape it up good and tight.

Does anyone have any pics of their converter install?

OK, I need somemore help guys. I finally got around to installing the SWI-ALP. I have the white wire connected to the green / red wire from the steering wheel. The power and ground ar connected in line to the power and ground from the vehicle and head unit. My problem is with programming. I can't get the steering wheel programed. The process I followed was to hold the program button while turning on the truck then let go. Then I pressed the program button three time to designate version three. The light than blinks three times. After that I pressed program and held the volume up button. After about 10 seconds the module light blinks 6 times. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

I don't have the instructions handy and I did this so long ago that I can't remember all the blinking sequences. But I have an Alpine like you and it does work. I remember the instructions as somewhat confusing. I remember that it wasn't obvious which section I was supposed to use. But once I did - it worked exactly as written. Be sure you know ahead of time which of the 10 (?) functions you plan to use.

Also - did you use the resistor they specified? In my tests you must have the required resistor.

I don't have the instructions handy and I did this so long ago that I can't remember all the blinking sequences. But I have an Alpine like you and it does work. I remember the instructions as somewhat confusing. I remember that it wasn't obvious which section I was supposed to use. But once I did - it worked exactly as written. Be sure you know ahead of time which of the 10 (?) functions you plan to use.

Also - did you use the resistor they specified? In my tests you must have the required resistor.

Yes, I do have a resistor attached. I realized after the fact that I had the wrong resistor in place. I had already thrown out the others. I thought they were all the same. So I ended up picking up a 5600 at radioshack. The instructions call for a 5100. I don't think that small difference should matter. In any case, I'm have a difficult time programming it. I haven't attempted since my previous post. I'll give it another shot this weekend.