Definitive Lift Kit Thread [Archive] - Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums

toolz_not_toyz

06-30-2006, 01:16 PM

Definitive Lift Kit Thread

Lift kits for Ridgeline are a hot topic. It's the end of June 2006 and lucky for us, we now have three lift kits to choose from:

1) SkyJacker 2" Lift Kit (Part# HR20), approx $275
http://www.skyjacker.com
Front & rear strut brackets. (Note: Mounting studs are not pressed in.)

2) Rancho 2" Lift Kit (Part# RS6596B), approx $375
http://www.gorancho.com/products/suspensions/honda_RS6596B.stm
Front & rear strut brackets, with pressed-in mounting studs.

3) Truxxx 2" Leveling Kit (Part# 202020), approx $699
Front & rear strut brackets, with pressed-in mounting studs.
Replacement front sway bar links.

So what are the differences between these kits? You'd be hard pressed to find much information at each of the manufacturers' sites with the exception of Rancho. Both Skyjacker and Truxxx seem to be stuck in another era where a potential customer is forced to contact the company by Telephone just to get the details. Rancho provides quite a bit of detail up-front. And this situation seems a bit strange when you consider the Truxxx kit carries a hefty price premium over the other two. You'd think they'd go out of their way to inform potential customers as to what could possibly justify the steep cost.

So I contacted Truxxx and got a form letter reply back. That formletter was a carbon copy of what someone else had posted in a previous thread here:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=92467&postcount=4

Although my reply was not from Gordon. I was quite disappointed as I had written a pretty good email with very specific questions that noted the differences between the kits and wondered why (WHY!!!) the Truxxx kit was better.

I gave it a second go and chided the first responder for providing such a lame reply. The response came back basically stating that...well, heck I'll just quote the response since it basically amounts to nothing:

"The math to properly build a kit involving moving angles, preload, strut
valving and wheel loads is more complicated than most people can understand.

Most very qualified experienced technicians would have problems figuring out
5 pages of engineering math; to try and post that would be redundant and
unless you had an engineering or math degree it would not make sense.

We also spend more money using 'certified' steel than just using mild
steel...why?

Certified mill steel's qualities are consistent batch to batch unlike
standard mild steel, therefore the product is safer, is more along the lines
of what OEM's use to manufacture the vehicle and we can provide a
consistently well made product.

Using regular mild steel would drastically cut our costs but it would hinder
quality, something we are not ready to do."

Well, that's all nice but why do you suppose Skyjacker and Rancho have opted to leave out the replacement sway links? And why is the Truxxx kit only 1.5" at the rear instead of the 2"--is this to preserve the geometry at the back? These are very simply questions and don't require any math skills at all.

Allrighty then. So I sent an email to Rancho. I dunno, I'm just more aware of the Rancho and Skyjacker brand names vs Truxxx (I mean, who the heck are they anyway?). Could also be that I have a Rancho kit on my '78 Ford 4x4. Shrug. I pointed out that there were three kits (the ones outlined above) and I asked them, two questions: 1) Why don't you include sway links; and 2) What kind of steel are you using since Truxxx say they use certified while other manufacturers use mild. What did Rancho have to say?

Thank you for your interest in Rancho products. We do not provide you with
sway bar links because they are not necessary with the 2 inch lift. Also
the quality of our products has to meet OE standards otherwise we would not
be able to be an OE supplier.

I see then. Either the monkeys that type out these responses know nothing about these kits or they're just not willing to say and would rather that us silly consumers figure it out for ourselves.

I should point out that Truxxx also reminded me that their kit was used on Honda's Motocross Team truck. Well that's nice too. As we all know that may have had nothing to do with anything other than the fact that the kit was available when Honda needed it. Or this that and the other thing. You know how marketing works. :rolleyes:

Now for a brief outline on the difference between spacer kits, body lift kits, and true suspension lift kits.

A spacer kit simply lifts the chassis by inserting spacer blocks/discs/brackets between the top of the strut and the strut upper mounting point. A body lift kit involves placing pucks between the frame and the body (clearly, this is only possible with traditional body-on-frame vehicles. A true lift kit involves longer coils, shocks, drop brackets, control arms (basically a ton of stuff because you are making some pretty significant changes).

OK back to regular programming. What about the three kits listed above? Here is what we do know: All of these products are spacer kits as opposed to true lift kits. The companies also bill them as leveling kits, although that doesn't really make sense because a leveling kit must lift the rear less than the front in order to level the stance of the vehicle (only the Truxxx kit claims to do this--but that information is buried).

All of the Ridgeline kits consist of spacers (brackets). These brackets need to get bolted to the top of the strut on one side and the upper mounting point on the other side. And this is where the kits first differ. The Skyjacker kit includes free-floating hardware (nuts and bolts) which can be a hassle to deal with when remounting the struts to the truck because of tight spaces. The Rancho and Truxxx kits include pressed in studs. All you have to do is tighten nuts on the top of the strut and on the top of the strut mount... No fiddling with trying to get nuts and bolts to stay in place.

The Truxxx kit then goes one step further and also includes replacement sway bar links that sized differently than stock. Truxxx claims that this is a necessary part in order to maintain geometry. AND this may be the MOST important reason to go with the Truxxx kit vs the other guys. The big mystery is why don't they all include the links?

So there you go. That's the summary as things stand right now. It would be cool if those that have installed lift kits could add to this thread by posting your short term and long term opinions about the kits. Don't be shy. And please make it clear which kit you have installed, and whether you have also installed modified tires and/or wheels.

geotech

06-30-2006, 09:59 PM

Definitive Lift Kit Thread
I'll say! Thanks for your work, toolz_not_toyz. As you know, I have had the Rancho Kit for about a month now. I will keep this thread subscribed and will post additional thoughts/experiences as life throws them at me. :eek:

Lingered_I

06-30-2006, 10:24 PM

Great post t_n_t !

I have the Skyjacker kit and did a self install with a buddy helping. I can provide the following observations....

As you mention, the use of nuts and bolts for the front instead of pressed in studs does make for a pretty fiddly install. You need a very short 14mm wrench, and the shortness makes it a little difficult to apply the 44lb-ft of torque, which you have to guess at anyway because you can't get a torque wrench in there. The instructions say to install the spacer to the body first and then mount the strut. We did one that way and with the second assembled the spacer onto the strut before mounting to the vehicle. The second method ensured that we had the correct torque but was more difficult.

The front took about 2 1/2 hours.

The rear turned out to be a bit of a nightmare. We found it very difficult to get the lower control arm bolts to match up to their weldnuts during reassembly. One of these bolts goes through the bottom of the strut so with the spacer fitted the angles were all wrong. A good couple of hours was lost here figuring out how to obtain the correct angles. To compound the problems, on one side I let the hub assembly pivot up too high when the control arm was removed. This pulled the inboard end of the driveshaft out of it's socket. I had to remove the metal strap and peel back the CV boot to reseat it. That cost $49 to have a new strap fitted.

The rear took about 6 hours. :eek:

We were working on jack stands, so didn't have the benefit of a lift that probably would have helped considerably.

A full 4 wheel alignment is vital afterwards as the geometry will be way off, especially on the rear which uses cam bolts to set the toe in.

toolz_not_toyz

07-20-2006, 04:09 PM

Update. The Truxxx kit appears to have been lowered in price by $100. The kit is now $599. That's $100 less for what may be the best kit out there for the Ridgeline. Good going Truxxx.

http://www.truxxx.com/honda_products/honda_ridgeline_lift_kit.htm

Salmo22

09-07-2006, 12:18 AM

scottIN

09-07-2006, 08:21 AM

As I am looking to purchase a new Ridgeline from my local Honda dealer and want to customize it to look (different paint) similar to the Honda Motocross Team truck, does the installation of these lift kits void any OEM warrenties? Can they be installed by a Honda dealer at the time of purchase? I really like the looks/results of the Truxx kit; however, I don't want to void any warrenties or screw-up the performance of the Ridgeline. Thanks.

First of all, welcome to ROC!

The majority (if not all) of the Honda dealers will not install non-oem parts - too much liability. And yes, a lift kit will void your warranty on any part that it affects (and the dealer can prove it caused the damage). Put a lift kit on and your fuel injector goes out, no problem. Put a lift kit on and your CV Boots crack, you're paying for it.

geotech

09-07-2006, 04:52 PM

First of all, welcome to ROC!

The majority (if not all) of the Honda dealers will not install non-oem parts - too much liability. And yes, a lift kit will void your warranty on any part that it affects (and the dealer can prove it caused the damage). Put a lift kit on and your fuel injector goes out, no problem. Put a lift kit on and your CV Boots crack, you're paying for it.

Yes, welcome ROC. scottIN is quite right. However, my dealer replaced my front struts after the lift kit was installed under warranty. But then again, my struts had "boinged" since the day I drove it away from the lot. As I have posted on another similar thread, the SM at the dealer looked at the Rancho kit and he said it "had no affect on the warranty" as far as he was concerned. BTW, I just passed the mid point of my warranty (18k).

scottIN

09-08-2006, 05:07 AM

Yes, I should have mentioned that some dealers will 'forget' you have aftermarket accesories. They get paid a hefty rate from Honda for warranty repairs, so it is to their advantage to do warranty work. With my MB, one time the dealer ignored that I had spacers and stiffer sway bars when I had a rear suspension problem. When my aftermarket crank pulley shattered and drove the woodruff key into the timing chain, they couldn't ignore that and I got hit with the repair bill.

0700

09-11-2006, 01:00 PM

i am about to install a skyjacker 2" lift kit, which is similar to the rancho kit. i went with skyjacker instead of truxx because i wanted to maintain the factory rake of the truck (i found it locally stocked here in canada whereas the rancho was a 4 week wait). that extra half inch comes in handy when loading and towing with the ridge.

i was wondering if those who have installed any of these kits had noticed any rubbing of the rear sway bars to the suspension chassis (see pic three), or of the rear cv-boots to that small support bracket that is welded between the suspension frame just below the rear drive shafts (see pics one & two).

thanks for any comments you can offer.
cheers,

jmboal

09-12-2006, 08:15 PM

I would like to know, what mod's that Honda did to the Ridgeline that they raced in Baja, some of the spec's so they had a 35 inch tire, I wonder if they had a special suspension lift.

jamminjim

09-14-2006, 02:52 AM

Hay Hows It Going,my Name Jim And I Bought The First Leveling Kit From Truxx Just After The Honda Truck Got Thiers. I Only Installed The Frt. To Get That Pre-runner Look The First Set Of Sway Bar Links They Sent Me Were Cut Short And Welded Original Ridgeline Ends Then They Sent Some Made Up After Market Ones That Made Noise Over Every Slight Bump When I Talk To Them I They Said They Were Working On A Solution. Well I Work For Acura As A Tech. And Said To Them That The Mdx Link Is The Same Lenth Why Not Use Oem Links After A Couple More Phone Calls They Rushed Me A Set And Now I Believe They Are Sending New Cust. Those Ones. One Other Thing The Camber Is None Adj. And I Like To Run A Little Neg. And The Align. Was On The Positive Side After The Install And I Ended Up Using An Camber Bolt On The Top Of The Two Strut Bolts Which Made Aligning Alot Better. The Tires Were Hard To Find But I Like The 265/70/17 Yokohama Geolanders With The First Set Of 17x8.5 Centerline Crossfires To Be Made Up For The Ridgeline. I Know The Truxx Leveling Kit Is A Bit More But Thier Quaility Is The Best And The Wrinkle Finish Coating Is Tough And Thier Support Was Right There When I Ask For It The Other Two Would Not Even Work With Me When I First Asked If They Are Building A Lift Kit For The Honda Ridgeline.

0700

09-14-2006, 09:26 AM

thanks jamminjim,
your information helps round out the possiblilities some more. i wondered if you had only lifted the front, from the pics that you had posted it looked like the trucks factory rake was considerably less then before.

i have examined both the truxxx and skyjacker kits closely and will decide next week which one i'll go with. i would say that they are of equal quality, truxxx has pressed in bolts, skyjacker does not, but i think that the skyjacker seemed to be better welded (both minor issues imo). of course the truxxx came with the shorter front sway bar links (which justifies the extra kit cost). so i ordered a set of acura mdx front sway links to go with the skyjacker kit if that's what i decide to do.

what is interesting is that the acura links i ordered look identical to the factory ridge links (they even have Honda stickers on the packaging) except they are two inches shorter. the links that came with the truxxx kit are the same length but look very different (and don't have Honda stickers on the packaging, which makes me suspect that they are not original acura mdx links as they said they would be, maybe just old stock?)

anyhow my decision between the two kits (rancho kit was not readily available here in canada yet) comes down to the rear lift amount. truxxx is 1.5" and skyjacker is 2". i load the truck (like you do with bikes) and haul a trailer and i don't like my tail to sag so preserving as much of the rake as possible seems like the best option. i'll decide at the shop at the last minute ... life!

one other question, how did you fit the meaty tires up front? did you have to do some grinding/trimming to overcome the rubbing? i tried 255/70 LTX's (without the lift) and had a pretty good rub againt the mud flaps and frame.

thanks again for your review
cheers

Lingered_I

09-14-2006, 07:38 PM

Potential bads news with these lifts guys.
I've been running the SkyJacker lift since June and have found tonight that both front inboard CV boots have problems. One looks to have failed completely based on the amount of grease it's dumped and the other is starting to leak.

Even if the failure is not lift related I don't see this being covered under warranty. :mad:

I may be taking my lift off soon.

geotech

09-14-2006, 07:47 PM

jamminjim

09-14-2006, 09:38 PM

To Me It Seems The Boot Got A Pinch Hole From Being Stricked With A Sharp Or Heavy Objet And The Other One Is Puled Out Of Its Grove Due To Maybe To Much Positve Camber?

jamminjim

09-14-2006, 10:11 PM

OH ON THE SUBJECT OF WHAT DID I DO TO THE FENDER & SLASH GUARDS, I DID REMOVE ALL THE GUARDS AND ON THE LEFT SIDE THE METAL ADAPTOR. THE LIP BEHIND THE PLASTIC FENDER LINER I GRINDED DOWN FLUSH ABOUT 6inch.IN LENTH,THEN WELDED A BEAD TO STRENGTHEN THE METAL I ALSO CUT AWAY JUST ENOUGH PLASTIC LINER AND SPAYED UNDER COATING TO FINISH THE JOB. I JUST CAME BACK FROM A LOCAL MOUNTAIN X WITH MY TRUCK AND THE TRAILS WERE LIKE RACING A RALLY CAR, JUMPING, TIGHT HAIR PIN CORNERS ROUGH STUDDER BUMPS JUST PINNING RED LINE WITH THE VSA OFF OF COURSE I DIDNT EVEN RUB ONCE. I EVEN HAD SOME COMP.ON THE UP HILL THE TRUCK WAS A 2005 NISSAN TITAN AND THE GUYS WERE YELLING AT ME AS THEY PASSED BY YOU CALL THAT A TRUCK! AS THEY WENT SPEEDING BYE, I JUMPED IN MY TRUCK AND CAUGHT HIM THEN I STAYED ON HIM TRYING TO FORSE A MISSTAKE OUT OF HIM WE BOTH WERE SLIDING SIDE WAYS IN THE CORNERS BUT HE WENT INTO ONE HAIRPIN TO WIDE AND I GOT UNDER HIM AND STARTED TO PULL AWAY WHEN I GOT TO THE TOP I PULLED OVER AND GOT OUT,ABOUT 4 MINS LATER I CAN HEAR HIS V8 STILL RACING UP. THIS TRUCK REALLY DOES HANDLE GREAT!

Lingered_I

09-23-2006, 12:02 PM

Sooooo, $190 + tax + parts (about $30) to replace the boot, assuming that the joint itself hasn't got contaminated. The joint costs $200. The catch is that the dealer has neither part (no surprise there) and cannot confirm contamination until the boot has been removed. I have a feeling that I'm going to be without my truck for a while. They will inspect the vehicle on Monday. I've felt around the boot and it has a 1 inch slit in one of the gulleys. No mention yet of lift kits or warranty.

Some more pics

0700

09-27-2006, 12:58 AM

well the skyjacker is in and it great ... no appreciable change in ride or handling ... still sticks through the corners almost like an accord.

it is sooooo nice to have the extra two inches ... its a little more work through the hip into the seat ... but i enjoy riding at the same height as the F150's etc

i also had the tires changed to the Michelin CrossTerrain 265/65R17, they are 30.7" in dia. so about 1" taller

here's a few pics

0700

09-27-2006, 01:07 AM

oh,
and all the parts fit great ... just a slight rub on the passenger front tire once in a while.

i went with the skyjacker because it retained the factory rake of the truck, unlike the truxxx where you give up .5" ... both kits seem well built. truxxx has the new shorter front sway bar links, so i went to the local acura dealer and ordered a pair of MDX links, which were 2" shorter then the ridgelines and had them installed with the skyjacker ... fits to a T.

the cost of the skujacker + MDX links = approx the truxxx kit, so for me it came down to looks/function of that .5"

here's a few more pics

auditude

09-27-2006, 01:25 AM

0700

09-27-2006, 01:41 AM

hope i can describe this right (without going outside to check)

you're right, the control arm is dropped 2", and the upper link connection is to the strut, but the swaybar connection is moved closer to the bottom of the link with the kit and you risk binding against the ... ? i have to check.

i'll have to go look in the morning so i can describe things better, the skyjacker and rancho kits basically do the samething as the truxxx yet they do not change the link, so the new link does appear possibly optional.

when i considered all this weeks ago the geometry changes of the lift made sense to change the link

carolinaridgeline

09-27-2006, 05:37 AM

Nice job of putting it all together 0700. On a related note, why the change to the Michelin CrossTerrain 265/65R17 other than being about 1" taller than the LTX M/S Michelin? Thanks

0700

09-27-2006, 10:00 AM

thanks,
i went with the crossterrains because the next size up in the LTX was the 255/70, which is 31.1", and they rubbed on both front sides, so this was really the only choice at the time if i wanted to stay with michelin.

goodyear has the 245/70 wrangler which is 30.6", i think, but the 265/65 is a little meatier (wider) and quieter
cheers

jayg287

10-04-2006, 09:00 AM

Is this an upgrade that a "do it yourselfer" would be able to tackle or do you need a certain amount of mechanic skill to install a lift setup?

0700

10-04-2006, 04:31 PM

Is this an upgrade that a "do it yourselfer" would be able to tackle or do you need a certain amount of mechanic skill to install a lift setup?

i would recommend you seek out a quality tire/suspension shop, you'll need a full alignment upon completion of the lift install.
0700

Lingered_I

10-04-2006, 10:15 PM

Is this an upgrade that a "do it yourselfer" would be able to tackle or do you need a certain amount of mechanic skill to install a lift setup?
See post 3. You can do it if you have a buddy to help. On a difficultly rating out of 10, I'd put this at an 7.5. It is not at all technically difficult, but it is physically difficult, especially the reassembly of the rear. 0700 is 100% correct regarding the need for a professional alignment afterwards.

geotech

10-04-2006, 10:34 PM

i would recommend you seek out a quality tire/suspension shop, you'll need a full alignment upon completion of the lift install.
0700
I concur 100% with 0700! The CV Boot issue discussed by me in previous threads needs to have special attention.
Steve

Lingered_I

10-04-2006, 11:40 PM

I concur 100% with 0700! The CV Boot issue discussed by me in previous threads needs to have special attention.
Steve
Do you mean the ease with which the driveshaft can be unseated or are you having problems with your CV Boots as well? My truck is going in today (Thursday) to have the front left inner boot replaced. Hopefully the joint itself hasn't got contaminated or damaged.

geotech

10-05-2006, 05:50 AM

Lingered_I
The ease with which the driveshafts can be unseated. They must be supported at all times. I have had no problems once the dealer replaced and reclipped the boots that my installer screwed up.

jayg287

10-05-2006, 07:29 AM

About how much does it cost to have a lift kit installed and are there any draw backs maintenance wise related to having one installed?

Lingered_I

10-05-2006, 09:06 AM

About how much does it cost to have a lift kit installed and are there any draw backs maintenance wise related to having one installed?
With an experienced installer I would say that you're looking at about 2.5 to 3 hours of labor costs (x2 people), plus the alignment cost on top of that.
To early to tell yet regarding maintenance costs. Items to watch for would be CV boot wear (I have one that has failed although the cause is not certain) as well as the CV joints themselves due to the increased angle that they are operating at. Tire wear also should to be monitored as the alignment may not exactly match the factory settings. So far on mine I'm not seeing any uneven-ness in the wear, nor any difference in the overall ride quality.

jayg287

10-05-2006, 11:25 AM

Has anyone had any bad experiences after a lift kit was installed?

sky-chicken

10-05-2006, 08:35 PM

does anyone know the advantage of installing the Acura MDX parts with the Skyjacker 2" upgrade ?

Lingered_I

10-05-2006, 09:38 PM

My truck is going in today (Thursday) to have the front left inner boot replaced. Hopefully the joint itself hasn't got contaminated or damaged.
I got the CV boot replaced today - $222 plus parts. Not covered under warranty as they said it was caused by road debris. No mention of the lift kit by me or the service tech. My lift components are painted black (instead of the normal red from Skyjacker) so it's possible he didn't even notice the lift. He said that the boot looked like it had been cut. I'll just keep an eye on it now and hope for no repeat.

auditude

10-15-2006, 12:24 PM

I'm increasingly considering putting a lift kit on my truck along with some 265/50-20 tires, such as the Nitto Dune Grapplers, so I was poking around looking at lift kits and found this note about the Rancho (and if true, presumably all lifts):

"Carrier Bearing spacer RANRS6608 is required with rear drive shaft carrier bearing. Without this, vehicle may exhibit minimal driveline vibration in 4WD."

I don't believe this website is correct, because the rear diff is not moved with the lift kit, so I don't think a carrier bearing space is required. I think they are talking about a "live axle" application and probably just included that note by mistake since most other applications have a carrier bearing issue with lifts.

This is the website:
http://www.performancecenter.com/product/Lift+Kits/Lift+Kits+-+Suspension/0/5/0/HONDA/2006/Ridgeline/4WD/2-Inch+Lift+Kit

Altho' I'm pretty sure that's a mistake on the website, I thought I'd mention it here for those that have installed lifts to confirm.

Lingered_I

10-15-2006, 06:06 PM

Yeah, that's a mistake for the reasons you summized. The diff isn't moved on the Ridgeline so there's no modification to the mainshaft or it's bearings.

geotech

10-29-2006, 07:10 AM

Update:
I had Honda service just yesterday. Nothing unusual found. After the fixing of the CV boots due to improper installation coupled with the replacement under warranty of the front struts, there have been zero problems. No change in ride. The SM on Sat. was the assistant. He was amazed after driving my Ridge how the ride was unchanged. (I have the dash rattle from h e double hockey sticks).

Just last week, I was off road in an area where the 2" made ALL the difference in the world. Without the lift, I would have to take the Silverado about 25% of time. Something I would not look forward too. :eek:

Thanks to accordingtome for reminding me to update!:)

accordingtoome

10-30-2006, 05:54 AM

Thanks to accordingtome for reminding me to update!:)

no problem... and i would like to thank you for being one of the first people to do this set up. I shall sooon follow your lead on this upgrade!:D

bj78249

11-16-2006, 02:12 PM

HELLO THERE, GUYS AND GIRLS FIRST OFF MY NAME IS BJ , I BUILD PORCH CARS FOR GUNN HONDA IN SAN ANTONIO TEXAS I AM LUCKY GETTO FIXING UP THE TRUCK OF THE YEAR .THERE ALOT OF HELPFUL PEOPLE I THANK YOU GUYS OUT THERE FOR ALL YOUR HELP MAKING SOME OF THE NICEST HONDA'S OUT THERE. I HAVE JUST FINISHED ADDING THE SKYJACKER 2 INCH LEFT AND CUSTOM BLACK 2O INCH WHEELS AND 20 INCH NITTO TERRA GRAPPLER AT TIRES 285/50R-20 AND CUSTOM BLACK FRONT BRUSH GUARDS AND TAIL LIGHT GUARDS AND EXTENDED FENDER KIT INSTALED ITS VERY NICE , ITS A WHITE 07 HONDA RTS .IF YOU WANT PICS OR HELP JUST EMAIL ME . AND FOR GREAT PRICES EMAIL WITH YOUR NEEDS IM GETTING PIC'S OF THE TRUCKS I BUILD ON HERE SOON . AGAIN THANK YOU GUYS. www.bj78249@yahoo.com

sky-chicken

11-17-2006, 11:42 PM

does anyone know the advantage of installing the Acura MDX parts with the Skyjacker 2" upgrade ?

geotech

11-18-2006, 08:03 PM

"Carrier Bearing spacer RANRS6608 is required with rear drive shaft carrier bearing. Without this, vehicle may exhibit minimal driveline vibration in 4WD."

Although I follow the logic that Lingered_I and auditude have stated above, I do have a very slight vibration somewhere. It is very slight and only under very low speed and more pronounced under a turn. Feels like front drivetrain, sort of like tires out of balanced. (They are balanced). This is the only affect of the lift. When I replace this Ridge with another, my first mod will be a quality lift.

Outside of that, it's all good (as my son would say). :)

RocklinRon

11-24-2006, 02:07 PM

geotech

11-24-2006, 04:46 PM

RocklinRon,
Gotta love the raised look, adds form and function! (oh, and gotta love the color too ;) )
Please keep us updated. Best of luck.

Lingered_I

11-24-2006, 06:37 PM

I like that look a lot! The bigger tire diameter makes a big difference in my opinion.
Anyone know if 245/75's will cause problems? They run at about 31.5" diameter on a 17" rim. The oem tire is 29.7

RidgeDOC

11-25-2006, 09:44 AM

Well, I just got my Ridgeline back after having the 2" Skyjacker lift put on. I also added AMP Euro Chrome rims with Cooper 245 70R 17 Tires. The truck looks great. The ride feels stiffer to me, but overall I am happy with it. I just hope I don't have any of the problems some of you had in previous posts. I have added some pics for you to see. Have a good one.

RocklinRon
Ron man you made my day! When I get to Texas I think you just bumped a lift mod to the top of my list! Now a supercharger will have to be second place. Call me superficial, but I like the looks of that soo much. Of couse rims and tires are included in the lift mod wish list for me, and thus far it has been cost prohibative. Man that is sharp!
Hey hey can you also post up a before pic?

sky-chicken

11-28-2006, 02:26 AM

zuhl

11-29-2006, 12:47 PM

I was thinking that the 245/75s might fit where the 265/70s have failed because they would be narrower and perhaps not rub when turning because of that. HOWEVER, I was looking at several companies 245/75s and I realized that these at mostly (maybe all) load range E tires. They are apparently made for dually appilcations because you need a tall skinny tire. I would stay away from those unless you want your truck to ride very rough like a covered wagon (or a Ford Exlpoerer).

RC51_Texas

12-10-2006, 01:30 PM

Just ordered the Truxxx Lift Kit on Thursday of last week - should receive it early this week. It is "pricey" compared to Skyjacker and Rancho, but Truxxx was the ONLY one who even returned an email or would talk to me on the phone! I've had two F-150's as my last two trucks and had Skyjacker lift kits on both. Really dissapointing to not get a response out of SkyJacker or Rancho. Neither one even shows the product on their Website and Rocky Mountain Suspension Products is out of both Skyjacker and Rancho kits with no idea when they will be getting any more in???

Truxxx staff seemed to be very knowledagble on the Ridgeline and lots of thoughts/engineering went into this kit. They answered all questions and took the time to "talk" through their kit and explain it all - no rush to get off of the phone from them. Will post pictures, thoughts, review, etc. after it's installed and has some miles on it.

Thanks to all for the great thread with information, opinions, and advice!

ridgeline42

12-12-2006, 08:04 PM

sky-chicken

12-12-2006, 08:14 PM

well i decided to take the plunge i ordered the sky jacker kit AND the acura mdx front sway links, in total for installation ect $800. installation to be done next tuesday so ill post pics asap. i hope i dont f_ck my truck up by lifting it.

I have the same setup (Sky/MDX) and I love it. First I thought the same way ... hope I do not screw my nice ride but I have to tell you it feels even better.

y33dave

12-14-2006, 09:46 PM

Hey fellow RL owners....

I just bought my Ridgeline about 2 months ago - and love it. I found this thread and have a few questions.

Can I ask how others installs went - as I believe I'm getting a skyjacker for xmas! ... did you do the MDX links ? if so... why?

I hope to hear from you

happy holidays

RidgeDOC

12-17-2006, 07:41 PM

Lingered_I

12-17-2006, 09:10 PM

I installed the SkyJacker lift myself (see post #3) and did not use the MDX links, and still see no reason to after 6 months.

ridgeline42

12-20-2006, 01:53 PM

sky-chicken

12-20-2006, 02:24 PM

well got the lift installed with the mdx links, for $900. originally, 8 but they didtn know i had f/r independant, so i had to pay extra to get it all alligned. BUT the VSA and another warning light went off and the steering wheel is now cocked to the right at 3oclock even when the wheels are straight. the place where i had it installed said that i just need to have the computer reprogramed, im having that done as i type. hopefully honda wont say i voided the warrenty and fix the problem without a big fuss. ill report back

About the steering wheel ... bring it back to re-allign because they did the allignment wrong. The VSA light on ?? I guess they damaged the speed sensor by taking them off.
The install says "do not touch the VSA sensor" "do not take them off"
I think they did a bad install job .

sky-chicken

12-20-2006, 02:27 PM

I installed the SkyJacker lift myself (see post #3) and did not use the MDX links, and still see no reason to after 6 months.

I watched them install my Skyjacker and I do most car stuff myself .. even installing Supercharger but I would not do the Skyjacker myself.

Lingered_I

12-20-2006, 10:23 PM

I watched them install my Skyjacker and I do most car stuff myself .. even installing Supercharger but I would not do the Skyjacker myself.
Me and a work buddy were feeling exceptionally adventurous that day. We were buoyed up by a successful install of a 4" lift on his Jeep Wrangler the week before but the Skyjacker install on the Ridgeline was much more difficult. He's not around to help me now, so if I ever have to remove the lift it's going into the dealer.

sky-chicken

12-21-2006, 12:21 AM

.....it's going into the dealer.

Are you selling the Ridgeline ? Why ?? :confused:

ridgeline42

12-21-2006, 10:28 PM

ok so i got my ridge back from the dealership and they reprogrammed the computer and gave it an alignment all covered under warrenty. they never mentioned anything about the lift kit so i guess all is well. im not very happy that i had to spend 3 days getting this damn thing installed. it took 1 day to install, 1 day sitting at service lot wating to get fix and then finally on the 3rd day it was fixed. im very happy about the feel and look of the lift but im not happy about what i had to pay ($900) and had to wait (3 days).

ridgeline42

12-21-2006, 10:40 PM

can you tell whats differnt between these 2?

sky-chicken

12-21-2006, 11:07 PM

can you tell whats differnt between these 2?

Yes ... the white one has the Sky-jacker ... just kidding :D

almost the same hight now like the white one with roof-rack

y33dave

12-26-2006, 09:10 PM

Awsome - thanks guys for the replies!

my Father and I are probably going to do the install ourselves - second weekend of January. I'll probably start without the mdx links... Depends if I get a smoking deal on tires or not. I had Bridgestone Dueler's on my last truck and LOVED em... so we'll see what the guys at Tires Plus can do for me...

anyway - that extra couple of inches would have come in handy this past weekend with our Colorado Blizzard...
17288
but the RL still did good w/o it.

I'll keep everyone updated with pics as soon as we begin the work.

Mac

12-27-2006, 09:03 AM

First of all, welcome to ROC!

The majority (if not all) of the Honda dealers will not install non-oem parts - too much liability. And yes, a lift kit will void your warranty on any part that it affects (and the dealer can prove it caused the damage). Put a lift kit on and your fuel injector goes out, no problem. Put a lift kit on and your CV Boots crack, you're paying for it.

:D Come to Ontario! My local Honda dealer will install the Skyjacker 2 " lift kit and honor warranty as the Skyjacker is the only kit they will approve within warranty The only drawback is putting larger tires on the Ridge such as the Michelin LTX 265/70 size I have on mine (Honda dealer installed) Although they look good and give great ride and traction you will not be able to have your front mudguards on again for clearance reasons. The other quirk is that you have to grind off a metal tab behind the front guards to claer the bigger meats. The Skyjacker is a strut mount levelling and lift kit. Obviously, the body lift kits will not work on the Ridgeline as the body and frame are one.

Mac
2007 LX

bbnmcas

01-01-2007, 08:01 PM

I have a question...what would happen if someone mounted TWO (2) lift kits on top of each other to get a FOUR (4) inch lift? Is there some part or hose that would break or not reach because of two more inches? :o

Lingered_I

01-01-2007, 08:16 PM

As a minimum you would need longer drive shafts and lower control arms in order to get the correct camber on the wheels. Also the cv joints would be operating off center most of the time and would wear out relatively quickly.

AMLEO

01-02-2007, 09:40 AM

:D Come to Ontario! My local Honda dealer will install the Skyjacker 2 " lift kit and honor warranty as the Skyjacker is the only kit they will approve within warranty The only drawback is putting larger tires on the Ridge such as the Michelin LTX 265/70 size I have on mine (Honda dealer installed) Although they look good and give great ride and traction you will not be able to have your front mudguards on again for clearance reasons. The other quirk is that you have to grind off a metal tab behind the front guards to claer the bigger meats. The Skyjacker is a strut mount levelling and lift kit. Obviously, the body lift kits will not work on the Ridgeline as the body and frame are one.

Mac
2007 LX
Looks good...I went with aftermarket wheels..no way could I fit those rubbers without a lot of cutting..settled for the 245x70..would have like the bigger ones..which cover did u go with for the back?

bbnmcas

01-03-2007, 09:42 AM

sky-chicken

01-03-2007, 09:58 AM

coolcat

01-03-2007, 10:58 AM

That's a great deal on the Truxxx :eek:

I just went to the Truxxx web site and noticed that the price they have listed has changed. It says, "Was $599, now only $467".

That explains why the guy on eBay is willing to take $400. This brings the Truxxx kit more into line with the pricing of the other kits, especially given that it includes the MDX links.

Now I'm glad I waited! :D

sky-chicken

01-03-2007, 01:40 PM

I just went to the Truxxx web site and noticed that the price they have listed has changed. It says, "Was $599, now only $467".

That explains why the guy on eBay is willing to take $400. This brings the Truxxx kit more into line with the pricing of the other kits, especially given that it includes the MDX links.

Now I'm glad I waited! :D

but you still have only 1.5" on the rear :(

coolcat

01-03-2007, 02:15 PM

but you still have only 1.5" on the rear :(

Oh, snap. :( I forgot about that. :o

I already pulled the trigger. :mad:

sky-chicken

01-03-2007, 02:27 PM

Oh, snap. :( I forgot about that. :o

I already pulled the trigger. :mad:

To be honest I think it looks actually better because of the leveling. Here the picture of my sky-jacker and as you can see in the picture it looks like the rear is higher than the front. I need as much clearance I can get because of my steep driveway so I went with the 2" in the back.

y33dave

01-03-2007, 03:30 PM

That looks AWESOME Sky-Chicken! Did you go with a bigger tire too?

RidgeDOC

01-03-2007, 03:38 PM

To be honest I think it looks actually better because of the leveling. Here the picture of my sky-jacker and as you can see in the picture it looks like the rear is higher than the front. I need as much clearance I can get because of my steep driveway so I went with the 2" in the back.
Finally a good pic of nimbus grey! and with a lift kit to boot. Hey Sky got a pic on a level surface?

sky-chicken

01-03-2007, 04:45 PM

That looks AWESOME Sky-Chicken! Did you go with a bigger tire too?

here the info:

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12074

Mac

01-04-2007, 08:27 AM

Looks good...I went with aftermarket wheels..no way could I fit those rubbers without a lot of cutting..settled for the 245x70..would have like the bigger ones..which cover did u go with for the back?

The folding Torza hard top (with the black sunbrella canvas over the F/B glass panels). I love the quality of this rear cover and the ease of installation and removal.

Mac

RC51_Texas

01-04-2007, 12:35 PM

Got the Truxxx Lift on and went with some Yoko Geolander 245/70/17's which fit perfectly without ANY rubbing at all. Front mud guards stayed on which is nice since I bought rear mud guards and installed them when I bought the truck.

Attached picture shows my Ridgeline next to a 6ft high fence. It's noticeably higher with ~2" of lift from the kit and another 1/2" from the tires, it makes a big difference to me. Level with stock F-150's, Tahoes, Suburbans, etc and taller than Chevy 1500's GMC Sierra's, Tundras, Titans, and Hummer H3's. Have had a lot of people scratching their heads and commenting on it being a good looking truck!

I also very happy with the "ride quality" and feel that the Truxxx kit has great geometry. Total for Kit, Installation, Alignment, Shipping/Tax was $822 even. That's less than some reported for the Skyjacker and Rancho Kits including installation. My shop said it was a piece of cake to install the Truxxx kit and want to do more if anyone in the Houston, TX area wants it done.

*** I paid $599 for my kit in December and Truxxx lowered the price after the 1st of the year BUT they just refunded the $132 difference and credited my card!!! Now that's a Company that I'll do business with again! You don't find that very often - Thank Truxxx!! :) ***

I'm EXTREMELY happy with the Truxxx Kit and feel that my Ridgeline rides just as good as stock if not better! The Yoko's are not as forgiving as the stock Mich's. The Mich's really do give the Ridgeline that smooth ride - says alot for the stock tires - but I'm still happier being another 1/2" HIGHER with the 245/70/17's!!

coolcat

01-06-2007, 01:16 AM

For those of you who have installed a lift kit yourself, did you reuse the axle nuts on the front? The Honda service manual says, "Lift up the locking tab on the spindle nut, then remove, and discard the nut." Then it says, "Install a new spindle nut, then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder against the driveshaft." Honda obviously wants us to replace the nut if it is ever removed. The Truxxx install sheet doesn't say anything about replacing the nut. I'm inclined to just reuse it, and actually using the factory crimp mark will help get it back on with the right torque. The manual lists the proper torque at 242 lbf-ft.

Did you reuse your axle (spindle) nuts?

(Side note: The manual actually says to use new nuts and bolts for just about everything, so maybe that's just Honda's policy to cover their butts?)

coolcat

01-06-2007, 05:04 PM

Well! My Truxxx kit is installed! Total time was less than 3 hours, would have been closer to 2.5, or even 2, if the nut on the bottom end of the passenger's side front sway bar link hadn't given us so much trouble. That baby was a pain in the butt! No worries though, since the new links were going in we didn't feel so bad doing what had to be done to get it off. It is a bit of a shame though, since we had to ruin what was an otherwise perfectly functional sway bar link.

We ended up not removing the axle nuts, we were just very careful to always maintain inward pressure on the hub to keep the CV joints together. As it turned out we didn't even have a socket big enough to remove them anyway.

I am extremely glad I didn't go with the Skyjacker kit. Having the bolts pressed in was definitely nice! I decided to go with the Truxxx because the price of the Truxxx kit has come down so much that I think it would actually be more expensive to get a Rancho kit and MDX links.

Initial measurements (haven't even driven it yet though) do appear that the truck is now level, as intended. Before doing anything the front wheel well lip was 32.5" and the back was 33". They are now all at 35.25". I imagine that it'll settle in about .5-.75" lower once it is driven.

I have an appointment with the Honda dealer to have the 4 wheel alignment done on Monday afternoon. I'm going to try to minimize my driving until then, but there are some trips that can't be avoided (church tomorrow morning for one). Can anybody tell me what to expect driving around with the lift on before the alignment is done?

A couple of pointers I'd like to pass on to anyone doing a lift kit install themselves in the future. The Truxxx instructions don't say anything about removing the lower suspension arm in the rear, which is obviously necessary. Actually, you don't have to remove it, you just have to remove the lower hub bolt so that it can swing down. They are also a little unclear as to the assembly sequence. We found it easiest to mount the spacer to the truck, then mount the strut to the spacer and reassemble the lower suspension arm. I haven't read the install instructions for the other kits in a while, but Truxxx left these things out so I figured I'd let everyone know about them.

Slightly unrelated - my Ridgeline has had a light "thunk" kind of noise in the front end ever since I had to run over a driveshaft on the freeway last summer. I think that we found the problem, the driver's side sway bar link was really loose in its lower ball joint. I was so relieved to find that! That thunk has been driving me crazy. So the Truxxx kit not only gave me the look I want, it may also have solved one of the few problems I've been having with my truck! Sweet.

geotech

01-06-2007, 06:49 PM

bbnmcas

01-06-2007, 08:24 PM

My Truxx lift kit should be here next week. Is there anyone in Southern California that would be interested in assisting me and my friend with the install? Lunch will be provided

coolcat

01-06-2007, 08:58 PM

Thanks for updates and information, Coolcat, and keep them coming! :) I have been very happy with the functionality the Rancho lift has given me. I still have a low speed vibration between 14-16 mph. Seems to have no affect below or above that speed. Is the MDX links supposed to cure that? :confused: I will be replacing our Chevy sometime this year with another Ridgeline and will have to give it a boost too.

I don't think the sway bar links would have an effect on the vibration, but I'm no suspension expert.

Wow, 2 Ridgelines. That's awesome. I'll be trading my CR-V for a Pilot eventually. 2 Ridgelines would be great, but my wife really wants the people space.

geotech

01-07-2007, 07:14 AM

I need to elaborate: the vibration is better described as an "old fashioned" shimmy that is felt thru the steering wheel. Feels like the tires are badly out of balance (They're not). Didn't show up until after the kit was installed. Much more pronounced before the front struts were replaced and happens as about the same speed before or after the strut replacement. No hint of it thru the steering wheel above 16mph. I'm stumped. :confused:

coolcat

01-07-2007, 06:26 PM

Here are some pics I just took of my Ridgeline with the Truxxx lift installed. I haven't had the alignment done yet, my appt. is 1pm tomorrow at the dealership. You can really tell that it is "bow-legged" in the front, I'm sure the alignment will fix that.

I did drive it quite a bit today. It drove straight and tracked just fine. The only real difference I could tell in the way it drove was that there was about 5% more effort required to turn the steering wheel, again I'm sure this is something that will be fixed with the alignment.

I was quite surprised by how much higher I actually felt while driving. I hadn't expected it to feel so much higher, I thought that 2" wouldn't be so much of a noticeable difference, but it is! I've put my foot down and "missed" the ground a couple of times getting out. I'll have to re-train my brain to know how far down the ground is now!

http://web.mac.com/coolcat/iWeb/ridgeline.muelver.us/Ridgeline%20Lift_files/100_6028.jpg
http://web.mac.com/coolcat/iWeb/ridgeline.muelver.us/Ridgeline%20Lift_files/100_6030.jpg
http://web.mac.com/coolcat/iWeb/ridgeline.muelver.us/Ridgeline%20Lift_files/100_6037.jpg

More pictures are at my website http://web.mac.com/coolcat/iWeb/ridgeline.muelver.us/Ridgeline%20Lift.html

rossi46

01-08-2007, 11:47 PM

I decided to go with the Truxxx because the price of the Truxxx kit has come down so much that I think it would actually be more expensive to get a Rancho kit and MDX links.

You can get the links at a honda dealer (06-07 Pilot) for about $16.00

coolcat

01-09-2007, 12:02 AM

You can get the links at a honda dealer (06-07 Pilot) for about $16.00

I guess it'd be about the same then, unless the Rancho kit has come down in price too.

Ah well, I've already got my Truxxx kit installed. If there's anyone out there who has a Rancho kit, but would rather have a levelling kit instead, I'd be happy to swap our rear-end spacers!

coolcat

01-23-2007, 12:51 AM

One note on my Truxxx lift kit.

While off-roading in Sedona, AZ last week I picked up a rattle. Sounded exactly like the bad sway bar link I'd had before the lift went on. When I investigated it turned out that the upper end of the passenger's side sway bar link had worked its nut loose a bit and was rattling around. I tightened it up and all was well. Until the next day when I went off-roading again, on another, much bumpier trail in Sedona, AZ (:D). Same rattle, only in a different spot. This time it turned out that the upper end of the driver's side sway bar link had worked its nut loose. Again, I tightened it up and all was well. All I had to work with in the field was an adjustable wrench though, so now that I'm home I need to get an appropriate torque wrench and make sure that those babies are on there.

AGGROPHOTO

01-23-2007, 01:41 AM

Try some locktite! the red is the strongest, and the blue is not quite as strong

One note on my Truxxx lift kit.

While off-roading in Sedona, AZ last week I picked up a rattle. Sounded exactly like the bad sway bar link I'd had before the lift went on. When I investigated it turned out that the upper end of the passenger's side sway bar link had worked its nut loose a bit and was rattling around. I tightened it up and all was well. Until the next day when I went off-roading again, on another, much bumpier trail in Sedona, AZ (:D). Same rattle, only in a different spot. This time it turned out that the upper end of the driver's side sway bar link had worked its nut loose. Again, I tightened it up and all was well. All I had to work with in the field was an adjustable wrench though, so now that I'm home I need to get an appropriate torque wrench and make sure that those babies are on there.

carolinaridgeline

01-23-2007, 04:49 AM

CoolCat,

I have been having a metal on metal noise under the hood/front end for quite some time. Dealer can not find it. Would it be possible to see a picture of the passenger/driver's side sway bar link you mention so I can zero in on mine to see if I have the same problem? What size socket and torque setting are the factory specs. Thanks.

One note on my Truxxx lift kit.

While off-roading in Sedona, AZ last week I picked up a rattle. Sounded exactly like the bad sway bar link I'd had before the lift went on. When I investigated it turned out that the upper end of the passenger's side sway bar link had worked its nut loose a bit and was rattling around. I tightened it up and all was well. Until the next day when I went off-roading again, on another, much bumpier trail in Sedona, AZ (:D). Same rattle, only in a different spot. This time it turned out that the upper end of the driver's side sway bar link had worked its nut loose. Again, I tightened it up and all was well. All I had to work with in the field was an adjustable wrench though, so now that I'm home I need to get an appropriate torque wrench and make sure that those babies are on there.

coolcat

01-23-2007, 11:41 AM

Try some locktite! the red is the strongest, and the blue is not quite as strong

Yeah, I thought of that. But I had also thought of putting some antiseize on there. I've had lots of trouble in the past with nuts and bolts getting so stuck that I end up breaking them off. Whenever I take something apart on my Ridgeline I try to use antiseize to avoid those problems. I put some antiseize on some of the large bolts in the rear end, but none up front. I think the problem may have been that the nuts weren't torqued correctly. I'll try that first, maybe with an itty bitty amount of LocTite.

coolcat

01-23-2007, 11:44 AM

CoolCat,

I have been having a metal on metal noise under the hood/front end for quite some time. Dealer can not find it. Would it be possible to see a picture of the passenger/driver's side sway bar link you mention so I can zero in on mine to see if I have the same problem? What size socket and torque setting are the factory specs. Thanks.

Sure, I'll take some pictures for you. I can post them here, maybe tonight or tomorrow.

I'll have to look up the torque settings. On the Truxxx links the nuts are 17mm, but I think that the factory nuts were a different size.

I'd been trying to track down that rattle for months and couldn't find it. It wasn't until I had the wheels off the front and went to take off the driver's side sway bar link that I noticed it's lower joint was shot. You have to unload it or you won't be able to tell if its bad or good.

RocklinRon

03-28-2007, 01:22 PM

Just wanted to post an update and answer some of the questions that were asked. I did add the Acura sway bar links. It just makes sense to me to keep the sway bars at the same position. I have had no problems at all with the Skyjacker lift kit. My kit was installed by Central Four Wheel Drive in Sacramento. They installed the lift and did the alignment all in one day. Aside from a slightly stiffer ride, I absolutely love it. I have not done any serious off roading yet, but I plan on it soon.

Ron

rprprp

03-29-2007, 11:58 AM

looks awesome.....

zero

03-29-2007, 11:18 PM

Nice looking truck. Great tires and wheels.

0700

03-30-2007, 02:21 PM

geotech

03-30-2007, 04:01 PM

sweet ride rr,
did the same with mine and done some off roading with much less worries about the ground clearance, truck handles majestically
0700
My finding and sentiments exactly. :)

rossi46

03-30-2007, 08:37 PM

I made a 2 1/2" lift myself and also installed 06-07 Pilot swaybar end links.
Installed it today at work. If I can figure out how to post pics, I will add some.

rossi46

03-30-2007, 10:25 PM

see if this works

rossi46

03-30-2007, 10:34 PM

here are some of the pieces I made

carolinaridgeline

04-02-2007, 12:06 AM

Rossi46,
AWESOME, Rally nice job. Would you be willing to share your drawing specs?

rossi46

04-02-2007, 09:59 AM

Rossi46,
AWESOME, Rally nice job. Would you be willing to share your drawing specs?

Don't really have any drawings or specs. I'm a honda tech so I got a hold of some struts and made some templates from them

coolcat

04-02-2007, 03:28 PM

coolcat

04-02-2007, 03:29 PM

Don't really have any drawings or specs. I'm a honda tech so I got a hold of some struts and made some templates from them

That's awesome! Think you could do that for a Pilot?:cool:

rossi46

04-02-2007, 10:55 PM

Thanks, Could possibly make some for a pilot. Not sure would have to do some looking.

Whaleya

04-22-2007, 08:48 PM

I just installed the Truxxx lift this weekend....

The front brakeline concerns me. It is fairly tight between the body and the strut brakeline bracket when the strut is fully extended. I wonder if you are at full suspension drop, say off roading, and have the wheels turned all the way left or right if it will be an issue?

Thoughts?

Whaleya

04-22-2007, 09:47 PM

By the way, it is possible to install the lift alone.... but it made for a very long weekend and I'm sore from trying to pry all the bits together while simultaneously getting the bolts back through the bushings. I also used extra jack stands and jacks to support the front struts as I removed and installed them.

Also, a few quick tips:
1)Loosen the nut for the front axle. If the gods are smiling on you, you can reseat the inner cv joint without removing the boot, but don't start expecting miracles like this.
2) Use a set of metric crow feet,
3) Use a set of hex (allen) sockets. I know the service manual shows a normal allen key but the sway arm bolts are in rough shape after 2 winters of salt
4) Loosen the other arms to allow the suspension to move easier during the install
5) A set of pry bars and tapered pry rods were needed
6) A magnetic pickup tool is needed for the top bolts on the front strut
7) A really long 1/2 driver extension can be used to slightly move the bushings via the bolt as you install the bolt
8) Torx bits are needed for the replacement sway arms
9) A sawzall (sp?) was needed for one sway arm - the hex stripped so everything just spun
11) I wouldn't do it without a good impact wrench.
12) metric ratcheting box wenches are really handy for the front sway bars.
13) Let a garage deal with install.

Overall I say this was a very difficult install. As others have said it's not technically difficult but it requires lots of prying, aligning, jacking bits up/down/up/down to get aligned.

I really haven't done a lot of suspension work on cars. The only other lift I installed was an a straight axle Jeep. The Honda shop manual can be deceiving with steps like (insert bolt and tighten) but it requires a bottle jack, two pry bars and 1 hour to get aligned enough so the bolt could be inserted.

I do much prefer installs like the rear camera.

The Truxxx kit seems to be a true 2" front 2" rear kit.

_W

madi05

06-18-2007, 05:47 PM

If anyone is looking to buy the Truxx kit for less, go to Ebay and offer this guy $400. He accepted. :D Here is the auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250067569151&rd=1,1

just to let u all know i checked this out cause i feel the truxx kit is the best and the way they designed it from what i know it evens out the truck and they say it is 2 inches front and back , maybe a change i dont know but i just was screwing around and made them a offer of 300 bucks and they accepted it , so maybe they just want to get rid of them or something, all i know is that is a hell of deal for a truxx lift kit, and comes with the sway bars, here is the

Honda Ridgeline Pickup All Models 2" Front 2" Rear
Item number: 250067569151

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Honda Ridgeline Lift Kit 2 Inch Front & Rear w/ Sway Bar Links (202020)
The lift kit for the Honda Ridgeline is designed to lift the truck 2" . This is the kit installed on the Honda Motocross Team Ridgeline, seen at every AMA Supercross and Motocross event. With our unique sway bar links and careful design, this kit won't change the ride quality of your truck.

About Truxxx:
All Truxxx products are made to an exacting standard, with modern 3-D computer aided design. The kits are then manufactured with precision computer controlled laser and plasma cutting equipment and welded to a precise tolerance. Truxxx uses the original computer drawings from the manufacturer as a base, and then creates their kits to fit perfectly with the OEM design.

Finally, each kit is tested in several vehicles for fit and ease of installation. Truxxx works over time to make sure that your installation goes smoothly – the instructions are complete with color photos, tools required and alignment specifications.

About HAMMERHEAD 4X4

Check out our store HAMMERHEAD 4X4 (My Stores Logo) for more lifts and parts. Or visit our site for other items! If you can’t find the part/kit you’re looking for email us to see if we carry it at sales@hammerhead4x4.com or call us at (801) 725-2134.

HAMMERHEAD 4X4 is a supplier of high quality 4X4 and off-road products. Our goal is offer high quality products at an economical price that will make your truck, Jeep, or SUV look great!

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For domestic shipping we usually ship UPS Ground but will use the best shipping method available. Internationally we ship USPS Express Mail and to Hawaii & Alaska we ship USPS Priority mail. We ship Monday – Friday within 2-3 BUSINESS DAYS of CLEARED payment. Free shipping price is for lower 48 states in U.S. only; if ordering outside the U.S. or Hawaii and Alaska, e-mail for shipping quote or use the ebay shipping calculator. Pick-up may be available upon request.

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On Dec-28-06 at 06:17:27 PST, seller added the following information:

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hope u can get one to for this price , its a deal , maybe he will do it even cheaper but i wouldnt press it anymore cause i figured 300 was what he had in them and was ready to let them go , lol just trying to look out for my new friends here at the roc (please let us know if u get the deal as well ok)

madi05

(http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250067569151&rd=1,1)

madi05

06-18-2007, 05:52 PM

heres the link to it on ebay so u can see if u want , good luck they say they have 7 available right now

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250067569151&rd=1,1

auditude

06-18-2007, 07:56 PM

My concern or thought about the way the Truxx kit is is related to how the truck in stock form already has a bit of understeer. I'm thinking that with the front lifted more than the rear, "to even it out," the weight will transfer to the rear and increase the amount of understeer. I would prefer not to have more understeer if I can help it, and I would think the other lift kits, Rancho and Skyjacker, would leave the understeer the same (not to mention have less of a sagging look in the back when loaded).

But on the other hand, supposedly Honda endorses the Truxx kit, so you one would think that vehicle dynamics are not adversely affected by their lift kit, since the stability control performance might not work right.

Has anyone noticed more understeer after installing a Truxx lift? (Understeer meaning the truck goes straight when turning sharply at speed, as opposed to oversteer where it spins out.)

coolcat

06-26-2007, 02:50 PM

geotech

06-26-2007, 04:07 PM

I've had the Truxxx lift since January and I haven't noticed any increase in understeer. I like to take fast turns at speed whenever possible. I get no complaints from my Ridgeline.
I have had the Rancho kit for over a year. No longer available? Very little to no affect on ride or steering. People "in the know" say it gets less gas mileage because of the lift. Charting gas useage doesn't support that in my case, but I see their point.

carlnunes

06-26-2007, 04:54 PM

Just got the Truxxx 2" front and back lift w/ alignment. Guy at alignment shop claimed he'd sell the kit, install and align for $550. WHAT!? I paid $489 for the kit, $300 for the install, and $70 for the alignment. That's almost a grand! Big Brand tire here in Santa Barbara California.

Ride quality: excellent (34psi hot, 32psi cold) the temp in Santa Barbara is pretty mild.
Looks: Stock tires are looking great, but want a taller tire when cash flow permits (245/70/17R).

y33dave

07-02-2007, 12:36 PM

Well - I've run into my first issue with the RL - and I'm hoping it doesn't have anything to do with the lift.

22252

I went off road this weekend trying to get to a trailhead (Gray's Peak) ...

about half way up I hear this huge KLUNK and thought ... *Damn - flat tire* ... got out to inspect and the tires were good... but oil was flowing out of the top of the right rear shock.

My friends and I piled out ... hike up to the trailhead - and then to the top of 2-14ers.. came back down and I called my dealers roadside assistance to tow me back to the dealership... I'm still waiting to hear what their verdict is.

I hope it ws just a fluke shock, as we weren't doing anything 'serious' - nor was I going fast on the trail... and we had subaru wagons, ford escapes, and honda elements pass us as we were hiking to the trailhead.

What a BUMMER! that made for a REALLY long day!

carlnunes

07-03-2007, 03:30 PM

what happens if I drive my Ridge with a blown shock?

madi05

07-04-2007, 06:54 AM

y33dave

07-04-2007, 08:48 AM

madi05

07-04-2007, 08:58 AM

Skyjacker with the MDX Links...

Each Kit does exactly the same.

If nothing else I'm in contact now with the guys at King Off Road Racing -

they are the ones who made the suspension for the Baja RL. I'm hoping I can be a R&D truck for them to work on some aftermarkets suspension parts for the RL's ... then I wouldn't have to worry about the crappy stock setup.

cool, i just installed my truxx lift kit and am happy, let us know if u come up with some even better stuff ok

sry bout your luck, but i dont offroad and mine is mearely cosmetic and i think really havent changed much on the truck for the strut to blowout because of the lift , just my two cents

madi05

auditude

07-04-2007, 07:29 PM

Here's my 'BEEF' with this whole thing...

The LIFT should have absolutely NO affect on the suspension. It's a BODY LIFT... it doesn't change the travel of the suspension.
Seems to me that since the pivot point of the lower control arms is unchanged, but the rest of the suspension is pushed down two inches, it is not the same as a body lift. The suspension is pushed down two inches more in its (limited downward) travel with the lift kit than it is without it. A body lift would be different, as the suspension travel would, as you say, be exactly the same as stock. If the whole control arm was moved down two inches, both at the ball joint end and the inboard side, like many lift kits for independent suspension trucks, then it would truly be unaffected.

The strut and spring are moved down with the lift kit, so they are cool, but for example the control arms are getting shorter and shorter as they arc inward in their travel. This also affects the geometry of the steering components, I'm pretty sure. None of this happens with a body lift.

I'm not saying the lift is bad, I might get one myself, but I have to disagree with that comment. They do affect the suspension and aren't as innocuous as a body lift (would be if they were possible on the Ridgeline).

davedad

07-05-2007, 03:12 PM

Here's my 'BEEF' with this whole thing...

The LIFT should have absolutely NO affect on the suspension. It's a BODY LIFT... it doesn't change the travel of the suspension.

And I wasn't doing any serious offroading - I've seen pictures on ROC of guys with their wheels off the ground and didn't hear anything about them hurting their suspension.

I continue to believe I had a bad shock to begin with... It just needed that extra oomph of actually having to 'work' - to break completely.

I was 75 miles from town when it happened and wasn't about to leave the truck, nor was I convinced it would be safe to drive back - so I had it towed - using their 'roadside assistance' number in the yellow pages (thinking... since this is obviously a warranty issue - they'll cover the tow too).

And now here I am 4 days later, the truck is still in their shop (because they don't stock the parts) with no loaner... I had to literally call the GM and Svc Manager because the service writer was so rude to me and basically told me there is no way they were going to consider covering the part under warranty because of the lift.

After speaking with the GM and Service Manager - the both agreed they couldn't tell that the lift had anything to do with the strut - there were no visible signs of abuse resulting from the lift. They also, supposedly, called Honda and asked if they would be able to do a one time 'courtesy' replacement of the suspension parts as a 'good faith'. They advised me (after numerous hours of negotiating) they would be able to do the work now as a warranty replacement... but that they couldn't cover the tow. WTF!!!!

The tow alone was $400 - and the only reason I used their company was I thought it would be covered. If I had called a different company - the tow would have cost me about $250. (I'm obviously still going to go to 'bat' on this one)

I just need to vent - if you guys have any suggestions - I'm open!
Having numerous 4x4's with lift kits, I will tell you the RL lift kit is a suspension lift affecting the geometry of the struts, axles, etc. A body lift just raises the body off the frame with rubber grommets. This can not be done on the Ridge as the body and frame are welded together. With the lift kits offered for the RL one would have to be careful of the axles "popping" out with full wheel extension. If I were to install a lift kit on my RL I would seriously consider installing limit straps.

y33dave

07-05-2007, 06:40 PM

Okay! Okay! You guys have me convinced :D - it's a suspension lift.

Good and Bad news for me today -

the bad news first - the strut didn't come in, the dealership never called to let me know ( I had to call them twice - once at 3 and again at 4:30 ). The second call I finally got someone to tell me the part 'might' come in tomorrow.

the good news - I bitched enough to the GM about the absolute horrible customer service from his dealership that they agreed to just eat the cost of the tow (probably just to get me off his back). I had to tell him I felt I was being lied to at every turn.

The Svc Manager tells me they can 'warranty/good faith' the strut but Honda won't let them do the tow.
Honda tells me the tow is never covered by them - it's up to the dealer.
The GM tells me they are just going to 'take their chances' and good faith the part - and he has no idea about the tow.

After I explained all this to him - he actually told me if I felt I was being lied to - I can pick my truck up, pay for the tow - and take it elsewhere! HOLY *@!$ - NOW THAT is CUSTOMER SERVICE at it's finest!

I have a feeling I won't be seeing my truck until next week sometime.

carlnunes

07-10-2007, 02:19 AM

Pismo Beach (http://www.sbcompserv.com/images/ridgeline/err.html)on Saturday. Just found some soft sand, spun the front wheels until they dug in and wouldn't move. Then smiled as the rear wheels automatically kicked in and pulled me out. :D

Today I noticed a metal on metal noise coming from the front driver side wheel. Ended up being a loose nut on the bottom of the link I got with my Truxx kit. I tightened it; but will have to watch it closely.

Any comments/suggestions welcome!

toolz_not_toyz

07-15-2007, 03:04 PM

Okay! Okay! You guys have me convinced :D - it's a suspension lift.

If you are confused at all about lift kit terminology, go to the very first post in this thread. The explanation is in there right around the middle.

There are some issues to be aware of with the RL kits available. The first is that if you are raising your RL by 2" using a suspension lift, then you are decreasing your max suspension travel by 2". Therefore, a proper lift should almost always be accompanied by longer shocks. And that leads to another issue: brakes.

Most folks that install lift kits end up installing larger diameter tires. The downside to this (aside from a possible decrease in fuel economy) is that you have now decreased your available stopping power. Therefore, a proper lift with an increase in tire size should almost always be accompanied by bigger brakes.

Unfortunately, no one has stepped up to the plate with a complete lift kit that includes new shocks and upgraded brakes. The FJ has been out for much less time than the RL and has more options available. It's not a pickup truck, but it more or less indicates what the aftermarket manufacturers think about the Ridgeline. Perhaps this is why I see an increasing number of chicks driving Ridgelines around here. I dunno. I like my truck. I like the truck. The ride is okay. It could use way more power. It could definitely look way cooler. But it is a Honda and Hondas are pretty much conservative vehicles.

So I question the true usefulness of the RL lift kits. For the most part, they seem to be for looks only and lets face it, looking at the RL straight on from the side...it's pretty durn ugly and can use all the help it can get.

y33dave

07-15-2007, 09:26 PM

Thanks ~

it's not that I'm not confused about the technology... I was confused why my truck 'broke' while I was doing trails that seemed to be easier than one's I've seen Gary Flint do in interviews with the RL.

I've gotten my truck fixed. And all balance has been restored in the force.

AS for the reduction in gas mileage - I put on an AEM Brute Force air intake and now get the same gas mileage as I did 'stock' (and it sounds 'cooler' now).

The brakes - i'd agree they probably need to be beefed up and I may buy some drilled/slotted rotors for the ridgline when it gets time for the first brake job. However, as for now... i don't really seem to feel any lack of braking ability because of the lift/tire combo.

Overall - I'm still happy with my RL and will continue to use it as a truck, customize it as a truck ( as parts become available ). It looks good and handles better than my wifes 10 year old suv.

I've talked to guys at truck shows, I've talked to guys in different forums, and I have a friend who works for a wheel company. - they all say the RL is starting to actually be viewed as a 'truck' and parts will become available as time goes on! yaaay!

Whaleya

07-15-2007, 11:19 PM

There are some issues to be aware of with the RL kits available. The first is that if you are raising your RL by 2" using a suspension lift, then you are decreasing your max suspension travel by 2". Therefore, a proper lift should almost always be accompanied by longer shocks.

Are you sure about this on the RL. The lift kits are placed between the top the strut and the body. This doesn't change the travel length of the strut and isn't the strut the limiting factor in this suspension design?

-W

auditude

07-15-2007, 11:50 PM

Are you sure about this on the RL. The lift kits are placed between the top the strut and the body. This doesn't change the travel length of the strut and isn't the strut the limiting factor in this suspension design?

-W
I'm thinking the control arms are the limit, since the pivot point is unchanged with the lifts. On Toyota and other IFS (independent front suspension) lift kits, the control arms are moved down from the frame/subframe with a spacer. Next after the control arms I think would be the axles, since you can only go so far with the angles and the stock lengths.

y33dave

07-20-2007, 09:23 PM

I took the truck in today to get the first 'B' Scheduled maintenance done...

Oil
Fluids
Tires Rotated
etc...

The Service writer calls me over to discuss what they did and then proceeds to tell me my front right cv boot is empty and the axle has some cracking on it... and will need to be replaced.

However, he spoke to his boss, and they say they won't be able to replace it under warranty.

I ask why.

He says, because you took your truck in 2 weeks ago to have it serviced for the rear strut at another dealer - and they told you there was a problem with the boot - but you decided not to do anything about it with them...

WHOOOAAAA~!!! HOLD ON!!!

Yes - I took my truck into have it serviced after the rear STRUT broke on a very easy trail... and YES... the other dealer told me there was some grease leaking from the cv boot. BUT they also told me it looked like it was because of an over-extension - 'probably from off roading' - and that the boot still has plenty of grease in it and is fully intact. They said I shouldn't need to replace it - and to 'keep an eye on it'.

Well, I haven't put but maybe 500 miles on it in 2 weeks since I got it back from repairs - and now I go in for an oil change only to be told I need to pony up $600 to fix my truck. :eek:

I want to scream! :mad:

Am I crazy?

Do I need to become ASE Certified to own a vehicle now - so I can follow up with everything I ever have done to my car... just to make sure what they are telling me they see is actually true?

I'm dumbfounded! AND I have questions!

1. How can they tell the boot is empty - when they say they didn't take it off, nor can they 're-pack' them because they'd have to completely take it off? !!
2. IF, they didn't take the boot off - how do they know the axle has been compromised?
3. IF the axle is 'cracked' - HOW safe is it to drive and for how long? I am sure my pregnant wife and my 5 year old son would like to know that before we go on any trips in to the park...

I will say, the writer at this dealership was a whole lot easier to work with, as he confided in me that he got in an argument with his boss about them doing a 'one time courtesy' fix on the axle - even after he said 'no'... and then gave me the phone number for honda customer service ( I already had it off the website - but thought that was still nice ), telling me to open a case with them to see if they can help.

Now... I just sit and wait - either way, I have to get it fixed.

y33dave

07-27-2007, 02:23 PM

So, I just heard back from the customer service rep - they have decided that 'even though the original Honda Shop told me not to worry about the boot, my truck is altered and they are not willing to 'help' me with the cracked axle'.

I'm going to buy an axle assembly and replace it myself, as I don't need to give Honda Service any more of my money.

I guess the lesson I learned here, is I should know myself a little better, i.e. I modify vehicles. Therefore - NEVER buy a new vehicle again - if something goes wrong - the first modification the service reps see - automatically voids all the warranties.

oh well, it's still a nice truck - I just hate that I spent that much money on something to get such horrilbe customer service! I understand I modified the truck and took a chance on something going wrong because of it... I just can't believe the service reps told me not to worry about replacing a $30 part... I listened to them, and 2 weeks later I get told I need to replace a $600 part because I didn't replace the $30 part.

oy!

madi05

07-27-2007, 08:37 PM

Ahhhh yes another leaking CV boot cause of the lift kit.
sounds like another bad offroad experience to me (i just cant see a little 2 inch lift kit making this happen)

madi05

geotech

07-28-2007, 07:52 AM

sounds like another bad offroad experience to me (i just cant see a little 2 inch lift kit making this happen)

madi05
As I have posted previously, my leaky boot was due to an improper install. The SM where I had it replaced showed me at the truck that once the axle is allowed to slip out without being constantly supported, they will leak. Period. Since then and with over a year of useage, I have had no leaks and no problems, just the confidence that I have the clearance I need for my application.

However, I am very hesitant now to buy another RL because of the absolute need for clearance and a body lift is the only way to get it. A Subaru Outback has more rated clearance!

BTW, last weekend, I took the truck with four adult passengers to a remote NGS station known as Meades Ranch for a geocaching event. The landowner inspected my truck before he would allow me to drive to the site over his trails. He declared my RL fit enough because of the clearance (he used his hand span) and my reinforced A-pipe (he called them skid plates). I had no problem, then neither did he in his F-350 dually.

y33dave

07-28-2007, 11:10 AM

Whaleya

07-30-2007, 07:16 PM

The Ridgeline is a city truck, not matter what Honda has marketed the truck as.

1) Suspension tuned for highway driving
2) Lack of clearance
3) Lack of a good 4WD system (ie mostly FWD)
4) Lack of skid plates
5) FWD bias makes accelerating when towing interesting as the steering gets very light

-W

PS Yes I take my RL off road and have towed my camper all over the USA with my RL.

madi05

07-30-2007, 09:21 PM

It's neither a 'bad off-road experience' nor an exact problem caused by the lift.

It was all because of mistakes made by the install of the lift kit.

It's a little tough to explain - but basically it looks like the cv boot got pinched on the install and eventually the whole expanded enough to let all the grease come out.

As for the rear strut - the bottom of the spring didn't get lined back up with the holes in the swingarm. The one offroad trip extended it enough to pull it out of the spot it got wedged into and then bent it.

It sucks that all this happened. However, I still believe in the lift kit, and will continue to take the truck off pavement.

well i will definitely vouch for u on the rear joint , cause it almost slipped out on me on the rear but luckily it didnt and all was ok but my buddy who is pretty much a lift kit expert said that is where most people make there mistakes and dont check to make sure they r seated properly after a install, he checks and then double checks , cause as he said he could sued if installed wrong and he doesnt make enough money to get it wrong, lol

pinching the boot is actually easily done as well , he or we wrapped foam around mine cause when u drop the front it will touch that boot u cant stop it, lol

anyway im glad u finally got it right , i hate it costed anyone extra cash and maybe now u r good to go , but that sucks what happened to u and i would be a bit pissed at the first guys not doing it right for u

madi05

zuhl

08-06-2007, 02:23 PM

Guys, I installed my Rancho kit this weekend and now you have me all nervous after reading this. I was very carefull not to strike or pinch the boot. But I dont know that I kept them "fully supported" at all times. I am not even sure what that means. The Rancho instructions did not say anything about that. Is there anything I should go back to look at or inspect? I hope nothing is gonna fall apart on me. That job was a pain in the a$$. The Rancho instructions for the rear were total crap. We ended up completely removing the lower control arm so that we could get the coil over mounted in place properly. We attached the coilover to the lower contol arm. and then attached the lower control arm to the frame. Then we jacked up the control arm into place and attached to the control arm. We found that we only need to remove the upper stbilizer link, not both.

y33dave

08-06-2007, 03:32 PM

I would say get under it - make sure everything is lined up. Bolts are in the holes they should be. etc...

Also - drive it for a week - crawl under it and make sure there is now grease where it shouldn't be.

chances are - everything is fine.... but a little follow up after the install is always a good thing!

My truck goes into the shop tomorrow to have the cv boot replaced... and then this weekend - I'm probably going hiking and/or camping. I'll get some good pics of the truck in the hills then.

zuhl

08-06-2007, 04:10 PM

THanks. I was wondering, does anyone have scans of the Truxxx or Skyjacker lift instructions? I have pdf files of the Rancho kit made and want to post them here. I did not remove any axles as others were talking about so I am wondering if it is a different procedure. I dont know how it could be though.

y33dave

08-06-2007, 07:38 PM

I have a copy of the skyjacker instructions ~

however they are too big for me to post on here - it exceeds the size limit for a .pdf.

email me if you want a copy -

or if someone knows how to post a .pdf in the body of a message here ?

Dave

geotech

08-06-2007, 07:57 PM

I apologize if this post is off topic. At the St. Louis Ridge Run, Honda officials showed off their off road concept Ridge. I believe I had the only lifted Ridge at the event and Honda officials were very curious about the reasons and wherefores. I came away encouraged that this maybe available someday (soon?), possibly as a trimline. Skid plates, larger struts, slightly larger tires and 1.5 more inches of clearance. I told them I would buy 3 today for my work fleet! (less the safari lightbar) :) ;) :eek:

y33dave

08-06-2007, 08:34 PM

That truck is what inspired me to buy a ridgeline!:D

I wanted to make mine look like that as quickly as possible - not realizing that NOBODY makes ANY of the accessories before I bought! :(

oh well, I'm sure accessory providers will one day realize - it IS actually a truck worth accessories!

zuhl

08-07-2007, 09:57 PM

So, I got my lift installed and I think I was just being paranoid about the brakes because the mechanic that did my alignment acted like there was nothing wrong with them. So whatever. I guess it might have just been the higher center of gravity that had me confused.

So I got the Rancho 2" lift in and got it alligned. I bought a set of used 18" Ruff Racing Wheels with some Nitto Terra Grapplers in 285/65/R18s mounted to them. The rims are black chrome on the ribs and regular chrome on the surround.

Anyway, they look awesome. I had to trim a quite a bit of a lot of metal off (though not as much as I had thought I would), but I managed to get them to fit even with the mudflaps (I had to trim them too). I will take more pics tomorrow after I wash it. It was getting dark today. I did notice a little bit of rub when backing and turning as I pulled out of my inclined driveway. On a turn on level ground though, I have about 1/4" clearance.

However, as awesome as they look, they ride like s#it. They are very loud and pull and wobble. 60 mph is virtually impossible. I can only hope that it is a balance issue. I know the wobble and pull could be balance related, but I am not sure about the noise. . If that is the case I may just sell the whole set on Craigs list and just get some larger tires for the factory wheels. I am too cheap to invest too much more in to this. I have always heard good things about the nittos so we will see.

TheRidgester

08-07-2007, 10:43 PM

Zuhl... that looks great! Congrats on the lift!

zuhl

08-08-2007, 08:17 AM

Thanks! I am hoping a good wheel balance will fix the ride issue. Not sure about the noise from them though. I will find out today.

I was thinking they would be quieter. I may have to spend the weekend installing the RAAMmat sound deadener in my firewall that I have been putting off for months now.

y33dave

08-08-2007, 09:09 AM

Looks GOOD Zuhl! I'm glad to hear the brakes thing is okay... that would have worried the snot out of me! Speaking of - my truck now has a clean bill of health after all my issues. I got the inner cv boot replaced yesterday. They said it was a PITA - but they still did it in about 3 hours. They indicated there was still grease in the boot and the axle looked great, which to me confirms the 2 dealers I went to to have work - were just trying to get more money out of me (a-holes).

Anywho - your truck looks good! When you go look at new tires, check out the yokohama geolanders... I love the ride and feel they are even quieter than the stock Michelins!

zuhl

08-08-2007, 10:44 PM

geotech

08-08-2007, 10:54 PM

Well, the balance was no good. The tires are just too worn to ride okay. Looks like I might have to get something else. I am thinking about Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor in 265/60/18. I think they are about 30.5" vs the 31.3 that these Nittos are. But they are also narrower which I think will help the most for a little extra clearance. I am noticing some rubbing when I turn on an angle.
I have found a 30.5" tire the tallest that would't rub at all. :)

0700

08-08-2007, 10:57 PM

Well, the balance was no good. The tires are just too worn to ride okay. Looks like I might have to get something else. I am thinking about Goodyear Wrangler Silent Armor in 265/60/18. I think they are about 30.5" vs the 31.3 that these Nittos are. But they are also narrower which I think will help the most for a little extra clearance. I am noticing some rubbing when I turn on an angle.

i agree with geotech on tyre size at 30.5. my michelins are 30.7 and i get the rare pass-side rub, although it is diminishing with mileage. i think those goodyears are an excellent product (friend has them on his tundra), they're my next tyre.
cheers
0700

BAMA

08-10-2007, 11:32 PM

geotech

08-11-2007, 05:49 AM

I am interested in a 2" lift kit but didn't really see anyone with stock tires and rims. I have the RTX wheels that I like so wouldn't be interested in buying bigger wheels or tires. I suppose there are probably bigger tires out there that could fit the RTX rims but that would also cost me more cash. Do people do lift kits with stock wheels & tires or would it be worthless, like buying a parachute with no rip cord? and if they do can someone point me towards some pictures? Thanks.
Depends on what you want the lift for? If is for function (clearance), then hell yes. If it for street looks then I don't have a clue. :confused: See this photo (not to far from where you live!): http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=166083&postcount=79

I have posted many pics of the stock tires with a 2" lift. At the moment, I'm running a very slightly taller tire, Goodyear Wrangler SA Prograde 245/70/17 on stock rims.

BAMA

08-11-2007, 04:22 PM

Depends on what you want the lift for? If is for function (clearance), then hell yes. If it for street looks then I don't have a clue. :confused: See this photo (not to far from where you live!): http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=166083&postcount=79

I have posted many pics of the stock tires with a 2" lift. At the moment, I'm running a very slightly taller tire, Goodyear Wrangler SA Prograde 245/70/17 on stock rims.

Thank you very much for the info and mine would be for clearance but looks would also be in the equation because if it made the truck look weird I probably wouldn't do it but your picture helps me to see that it wouldn't look bad at all. Thanks again.

geotech

08-11-2007, 05:22 PM

Thank you very much for the info and mine would be for clearance but looks would also be in the equation because if it made the truck look weird I probably wouldn't do it but your picture helps me to see that it wouldn't look bad at all. Thanks again.
Since the lift was done very early, nearly every pic of my truck shows the look. ChrisM was at the St.Louis meet and comments on the look of the truck in this post: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=229305&postcount=1
As I stressed to the Honda engineers there, it is both form (makes it look like a "truck") and function (required truck clearance)!

zuhl

08-28-2007, 09:09 AM

So, it turns out that the Terra Grapplers (285/60/R18) were gonna cause me to grind away more metal than I was really comfortable with. So they got set aside. I put some 265/60/R18 Goodyear Wranger Silent Armors on there. I think the rims are just a little wide for them, but they ride fantastic and handle great. They are also much quieter than the Terra Grapplers. They are almost as quiet as the stock tires.

I am not sure about the brush guard though. I think I am mixing gangsta and redneck and it just does not work here. Any thoughts? Anyone around or near Houston that would be interested in a brush guard for about half price? I think a bull bar would look better with these rims.

zuhl

08-28-2007, 09:17 AM

Also, a word of warning for whenever you have discount tire rotate your tires. They put a chrome cap on the brass fittings of stock valve stem that is an integral part of the the TPMS. Needless to say galvanic corrosion completely fused the threads together and ruined the stem. So make sure no one ever puts a chrome valve cover on a factory stem!!!

By the way, does anyone know whether I can just buy the stem, or do I have to buy a whole new TPMS? It looks like this.

geotech

08-28-2007, 09:20 AM

Also, a word of warning for whenever you have discount tire rotate your tires. They put a chrome cap on the brass fittings of stock valve stem that is an integral part of the the TPMS. Needless to say galvanic corrosion completely fused the threads together and ruined the stem. So make sure no one ever puts a chrome valve cover on a factory stem!!!

I think there was a TSB on this. Plastic caps only.

bear97

09-22-2007, 12:38 PM

auditude

09-22-2007, 01:16 PM

I think there was a TSB on this. Plastic caps only.

My RTL came from the dealer with some tire valve caps that are supposed to show you when the tire is low. They are green when at the proper pressure, and red when low. What I have noticed is that I have had to top off my tires more often than I think I should have to, based on the TPMS letting me know that the are low, which they really are when I top them off.

The stupid indicator caps don't even show that the tires are low when this happens. I'm considering putting regular plastic caps on, because these indicator ones, not only being redundant to the TPMS and not even working apparently, seem to be leaking. It would make sense since they are depressing the schraeder valve keeping it open and attempting to seal in a different area, probably the edge of the stem.

I thought these indicators were stock, but reading this post makes me think the dealer put them on. Any thoughts? Did your Ridgelines come with regular plastic caps on the stems?

geotech

09-22-2007, 06:55 PM

:D I just got my Truxxx lift on yesterday and I love it. The ride is just slightly more firm but not in a bad way. It feels like there is less sway and you feel the road better.

I am thinking of the BFG TA's when I wear down my stock tires (I can't see getting rid of these). I'm also looking at the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo.

Here's a couple pics of After & before. Although they may seem similar, looks soooo much better lifted when you see it first hand!!! :D
Very nice. Makes those Nerf Bars (and truck) more functional now!

carlnunes

09-22-2007, 09:05 PM

I just got my Truxxx lift on yesterday and I love it. The ride is just slightly more firm but not in a bad way. It feels like there is less sway and you feel the road better.

I am thinking of the BFG TA's when I wear down my stock tires (I can't see getting rid of these). I'm also looking at the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo.

Here's a couple pics of After & before. Although they may seem similar, looks soooo much better lifted when you see it first hand!!! :D
WOW! It really needed that. I think your truck looks more functional now. Nice mod! Keep up the good work!

*Just an update; had my truxxx lift on for a few months now and love it! Ride is slightly more firm but still very smooth. Still handles really well; like a Honda should!

bear97

09-23-2007, 09:48 PM

Yes, more functional! I don't hit the nose when I'm cruz'n the Plumas Natl Forest trails. :cool:

I used to have an F150 and the ground clearence was the only thing I really missed...okay, and maybe the V8 sound too.

accordingtoome

09-28-2007, 01:01 AM

i have been off the forum for awhile so what was the final thought on the lift kits>>
?
what was the best kit so far?

franc944

09-28-2007, 08:02 AM

TRUXX is the best lift kit.

Now $300
Pressed in studs for easiest installation
Comes with Sway Bar Links

Anyone care to argue how Truxx can be beat?

obxdune

09-28-2007, 09:03 AM

Hmmmm.... I just checked the Truxxx web site and they advertise 2" lift for front and rear... I see from previous posts that the rear lift was 1.5". Did they change the kit????

bear97

10-03-2007, 11:31 PM

I don't know the actual change 1.5" vs 2". I do know that I chose Truxxx because of all the great feedback on the ROC forum.

I waited until the price went down and bought it from an authorized dealer for $325. I got a list of the authorized dealers from the Truxxx website and called a few until I received a competative price.

I rides great and no problems! :D

Bikemedic

01-14-2008, 10:19 AM

I just scored a used set of Truxx lift kit off from e-bay for $125, but I need to get the sway bar links. What year MDX links are the ones that fit the Ridge.

Thanks

Greg

TexFromKansas

01-14-2008, 04:37 PM

I just scored a used set of Truxx lift kit off from e-bay for $125, but I need to get the sway bar links. What year MDX links are the ones that fit the Ridge.

Thanks

Greg

SO... You are the one I was bidding against.. :)

da godsey

01-22-2008, 09:50 PM

Hmmmm.... I just checked the Truxxx web site and they advertise 2" lift for front and rear... I see from previous posts that the rear lift was 1.5". Did they change the kit????

So what's the scoop? Is it 2" or 1.5" in the rear?
Also has anyone looked at installing rear air shocks (struts) if they are made by anyone?

hondasir1981

01-23-2008, 06:02 AM

it is 2" in front, and 1.5" in rear but looks great and its leveled. I have the truxxx kit and love it

da godsey

01-23-2008, 07:36 PM

it is 2" in front, and 1.5" in rear but looks great and its leveled. I have the truxxx kit and love it

Thanks for the info
The RL really needs just a little more ground clearance. I don't do any really tough OFF ROADING but when following ruts & trails of other trucks I ground out too much. What size tires did you go with? I'm not looking for any big mudders just want to get a little more clearance? With the truxx kit I'm certain I could go to 245/70 with no grinding or loss of turning radius. That would give an actual increase of 1/2". Did you go any bigger?

geotech

01-23-2008, 08:30 PM

Thanks for the info
The RL really needs just a little more ground clearance. I don't do any really tough OFF ROADING but when following ruts & trails of other trucks I ground out too much. What size tires did you go with? I'm not looking for any big mudders just want to get a little more clearance? With the truxx kit I'm certain I could go to 245/70 with no grinding or loss of turning radius. That would give an actual increase of 1/2". Did you go any bigger?
I have the Rancho kit. The problem is horizontal clearance. I found the 245/70 to be the maximum without rubbing. And you are correct about the 1/2" too. I run the Goodyear SA Wranglers. Good tires, but not much of a value as they are pricey.

dmc51176

02-05-2008, 07:55 PM

Anyone having cv problems? I got the kit on 4 days ago and now my inner drivers side boot shows sign of grease and I'm getting a hummm noise. Going in tomorrow. only 3000 miles. probably bad install?

geotech

02-06-2008, 07:42 AM

Anyone having cv problems? I got the kit on 4 days ago and now my inner drivers side boot shows sign of grease and I'm getting a hummm noise. Going in tomorrow. only 3000 miles. probably bad install?
No doubt. Perhaps the term should be "improper" install. The lift threads, including my posts, reveal some of us with leak issues. I never had the "hummmm" sound however. Others will swear by the lift. As I have posted many times, without the lift I couldn't make the truck work for me. And yes, it was my fault for buying it in the first place. I take ownership (literally) of that fact. :)

dmc51176

02-07-2008, 08:21 PM

geotech

02-07-2008, 08:39 PM

Thanks. I got it back today from the dealer, said it was a rip in the boot. No charge. They didnt even mention(or notice) the lift and neither did I. I am very fortunate. Time to get tires, what have you got???
Wrangler SA 245/70/17. No rubbing. The rubbing issue is horizontal clearance. Max dia. = 30.6"

beerkat

05-03-2008, 02:56 PM

Well I did a search a couple of different ways but I keep coming back to this thread so Here is the question.

I tow at least once a month and would like to put in a REAR LEVELING device on my truck. Air shocks, air spring, or Hydraulic? I basically no very little on the subject because no one seem to make a kit for it. I know that several different kits are out there for other trucks but not for ours. Any thoughts you might have would be appreciated :)

wagonator

05-12-2008, 07:25 PM

Hello Ridgeline owners. I just got a skyjacker lift kit installed and properly aligned and the Ridgeline runs perfectly.. I still have two questions. I did not find here what about the recommendation of skyjacker to re torque everything after 100 miles. it seems impossible to me without re doing everything specially at the front. did someone here re torque or do you simply kept it as installed for the first time??? It's been a while since the thread started; any long term experiences or maintenance recommendations for the newbie here??

thanks .

Me2

05-12-2008, 10:16 PM

pius222

06-15-2008, 12:01 AM

geotech

06-15-2008, 07:46 AM

Based on reading this thread, it seems like there aren't a lot of choices of lifts for Ridgeline as to Toyotas. I am really interested in Ridgeline, the looks is growing on me, and knowing it is a Honda, so it will last forever. I also would like to see what's out there as to make Ridgeline an offroad beast.

From this thread, it seems like there are no suspension kits for Ridgeline, and if over 2" lift, the strain on CV will create problems.

For Toyotas, if lift over 3" on an IFS truck, one will require a "differential drop" to correct the CV angle. Does Honda has such a thing? Furthurmore, once lifted and fit bigger tires, it is best to regear to compensate lost of power. I wonder does it apply to Ridgeline as well?
Off Road Beast, huh? Ain't gonna happen without throwing a gazillion dollars at a complete redo underneath. :( I have both an RL and a Frontier NISMO. The NISMO is an off road beast right out of the box. As a plus, the NISMO consistently gets 18-19 mpg hwy while I'm lucky in the RL to get 17mpg with a lift.

Below are photos from St. Louis at last year's meet of the off road concept RL Honda brought down to tease me with.

John32070

06-15-2008, 02:57 PM

While the off road version really wasn't my cup of tea, I was impressed by the look and I think Honda would sell enough of them to make it worthwhile to persue, unlike the street version, which while impressive, I think they'd be hard pressed to sell 500 a year.

Below are photos from St. Louis at last year's meet of the off road concept RL Honda brought down to tease me with.

If the keys had been handy, I thought you might have just took off with it then and there LOL. I still think they should let you have it for "testing" purposes (hint hint Gary). Better you than someone who would just go into the mountains to see how badly they could beat it up.

ridgenut417

07-09-2008, 10:11 AM

i just wanted to say that i purchased the skyjacker lift kit. I have only installed the fronts as of now just because its pretty much level and it looks good. got the 4-wheel alignment from the honda dealer too. im getting new tires in a couple days(255/75-17 BFG mud terrain $439 shipped to my door!!! tirerack.com :cool: ) if all goes well i will probably not even lift the rear but dunno yet. i was wondering if anyone else has just lifted the front? Oh and i called Truxx about their sway bar links and the guy was kindof a jerk. I just wanted to know why they used them and if they were shorter or longer and how much. He played dumb with me and told me he didnt really know if they were shorter or longer:rolleyes: then told me i should return my kit and get theirs. so i hung up and talked to the tech guy and he said they were shorter but he didnt know how much either. yea right! if neither the sales or tech guys dont know what they are selling, im not buying that! anyway, still happy with the skyjacker, wish it had pressed in studs but all well.

geotech

07-09-2008, 11:05 AM

coolcat

07-09-2008, 11:31 AM

MTSROC

07-09-2008, 06:36 PM

One word cure for rubbing: Sawzall. If you want to make it look pretty, install extended fender flares.

ChrisM

07-13-2008, 10:01 AM

I thought that I would throw my 2 cents in this thread since I recently installed the Truxxx lift kit on my RL.

First, I would like to thank Ondlinks, my sponsor for the lift.

Now, to answer someones question on the difference in the length of the sway bar links. The OEM links are about 14 1/2" long and Truxxx links are about 12 1/2" as measured center to center on the mounting bolts. This difference in link length made for an interesting mount as I did the lift by myself at one time and was dead tired by the time I got to the last sway bar mount. It took me about 5 1/2 hours from start to finish flying solo with air tools.

The biggest slowdown for me was the sway bar links. Mine were very hard to get off the truck. I also thought that the instructions (which I actually read) from Truxxx for installing the rear lift was wrong. I think I could have finished the entire project in under 4 hours if I had used my mechanics intuition to do the project vs. trying to use someone elses instructions. I couldn't get the rear struts off the truck using their instructions. It took me the first 2 hours to get the first rear strut off the truck. I ended up pulling the lower bolt in that attaches to the wheel carrier as shown in the 1st picture. After using this procedure, the 2nd rear strut took about 15 minutes.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1444.jpg

Here are a couple of pics of the lift kit itself before I installed it so you can see what is "in the box." As you can see, the lift in the back is very short. The one in the front is 2X as tall which is why the truck is more level after the kit is mounted. The bags contain the new sway bar links and the necessary bolts to mount the kit.

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1436.jpg

Rear lift

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1437.jpg

Front lift

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1438.jpg

ChrisM

07-13-2008, 10:16 AM

Here are couple of pics of the actual difference as measured to the top of the wheel wells both front and back.

Before lift back

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1439.jpg

After lift back

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1449.jpg

Before lift front

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1440.jpg

After lift front

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1451.jpg

I had the alignment done per the specs on the sheet from Truxxx which was about $100 from Tire Discounters which is about 3/4 of mile from my house. I could have gotten a cheaper alignment but I didn't want to drive any further than necessary after putting the kit on.

I was also super careful not to pull out the CV boots when installing the kit. This in itself is somewhat challenging. The front struts are very akward and heavy.

I'm happy with the results and thus far would say that I would do it again. I would give this a project a technical difficulty of about 3 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being the easiest. I would give it about a 7 on a scale of 1 to 10 for akwardness because of the heft involved in getting this project accomplished.

I would suggest that if anyone was to do this project themselves, they have air tools with the correct sockets available. Getting the suspension bolts out as shown in the very first picture required about 200 ft/lbs of force. You'd need a 2' breaker bar if you did it by hand. I also soaked all the bolts in liquid wrench for about 30 minutes before I tried to remove any of them to get rid of any oxidation due to the road salt and surface rust.

If you are to attempt this project by yourself, you will need no less than a set of jackstands and 2 floor jacks. I wouldn't try this with either the electric or OEM jacks as I had to loosen literally every suspension bolt to get the struts out. I tend to jerk on the bolts pretty hard to get them loose and use the jacks to support parts of the suspension when I loosened them. I wouldn't take the chance of having the truck shift on me in any way and using either of these jacks might result in this since they are less stable than a floor jack.

ChrisM

07-13-2008, 10:32 AM

Finally, a "much" before pic of the truck without the lift kit installed and an "after" pic. I tried to find 2 pics shot from the same perspective to show the difference in height of the truck. The first picture was taken when I painted my wheels which was before I had them powdercoated.

Before

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/babys%20pics/Painted%20Wheels/IMG_1095.jpg

After

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/Lift%20Pics/IMG_1453.jpg

I can't really tell a difference in the ride of the truck. My mileage has actually gone up since I did the install but I'd still say that I feel that the mileage issue is inconclusive because I have only used 2 tanks of gas since the install.

Here are more before and after pics that were taken from the same perspective if anyone is interested.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/image-video-gallery/22837-comparison-pics.html

bobtwhite

07-13-2008, 12:40 PM

Chris,

Great pictures and good description of your install. I'm confused about comments from those with lifts that say it makes the truck level. I can see from your pictures that the wheel wells are now both 34", but what about the rest of the truck? Does the bed now slant forward? Did Honda build a truck that isn't level and slants to the rear? Is there an advantage to having a "level" truck (other than the increased ground clearance)?

Thanks,

ONDLINKS

07-13-2008, 02:49 PM

Glad you could make use of the kit Chris, looks particularly good with your style of truck.

What's next 22's? :)

geotech

07-13-2008, 03:20 PM

Thanks for the write up & pics, Chris. Man, love the look and functionality!

ridgenut417

07-23-2008, 08:27 PM

i just wanted to let everyone know that if you do the lift kits make sure you replace the sway bar links with either Pilot or MDX sway bar links that are shorter. i have attached a couple pics to show you what will happen if the sway bar links are too long and how much shorter they are. i have only installed the front lift as i like the way it looks and drives and dont want to make it harder to load my bike in the back. I also included a couple pics of what it looks like when its done and how much trimming i had to do. it may look like alot in the pics but you have to look real hard to be able to see it up close. oh and the tires are 255/75-17 with no rubbing at all!!!

does anyone know if you need shorter sway bar links in the rear with the lift?

ridgenut417

07-23-2008, 08:33 PM

ChrisM

07-23-2008, 09:14 PM

The Truxx kit comes with new links. No new links are needed for the back end. The Truxx rear lift isn't a real lift, it is more of a way to even out the back with the front end's more aggessive stance.

To answer Bob's question which I missed before, (sorry Bob) the RL sits slightly lower in the front than the back from the factory. I believe that this was done to blend functionality with aerodynamics. Since I have done my lift/level, I have noticed that there is far less wind noise from leaving the moonroof open at highway speeds than before the lift.

The offsetting penalty of doing the lift is that the bed scoops more air more like a conventional truck than it did when the roof's angle allowed better airflow over the open bed. I think that the reason that I am not getting a hit in gas mileage while others have after doing the lift is because I have offset this scooping effect of air in my truck bed with my DIY tonneau cover. I have also kept the OEM tires instead of putting wider and heavier tires on the truck as others have. Heavier wheels and tires means more rotational mass which adversely affects gas mileage.

Anyways, my DIY cover is unique in that it has more of an angle that matches the slope of the sides than the other tonneaus that I have seen commercially available so the air flows off of the back of the truck a little more cleanly like a trunk lid vs. a flat tonneau.

This is just a theory though. I can't prove it on paper. I know that this is more information than anyone asked this but I thought that I would throw it out there.

PS. Ridgenut, are the tires on the front of your truck larger than the ones on the back?

ChrisM

07-23-2008, 09:23 PM

Glad you could make use of the kit Chris, looks particularly good with your style of truck.

What's next 22's? :)

THANK YOU! I couldn't have done it without your help! :)

No 22's in my future. I think that any mod that is over $30 is out of the picture for a while. At least that is what the boss is telling me. :eek:

bobtwhite

07-24-2008, 04:50 AM

Chris,

Thanks for the reply. I never thought about the aerodynamic aspects of the lift. As always, you give an insightful analysis.

Bob

bobtwhite

07-24-2008, 04:53 AM

Ridgenut,

I notice in the pictures you removed the front mudguards. Did you do this to prevent tire rub? Does this affect the drains from the windshield which normally run through the front mudguards?

Your truck looks great by the way.

Bob

RkyMntHigh

12-03-2008, 05:14 PM

Lets say I add the Lift kit and then want bigger tiers, can I go to 245/75r17 (same width but more hight) or do I have to jump up to 255/75r17 (more width and more hight)?

wagonator

12-03-2008, 06:28 PM

I did the 245/75r17 and my impression is that this is the limit. I had to take out the mudguards and the tire still touches (barely). I did not had to trim anything but i had already broke my front sway bar links (I put Skyjacker). The dealer did not cover the guarantee and the spare is not readily available (three weeks in the dealer's shop).

The truck looks nice but that is it. The power loss and fuel burn is very noticeable and you will take away its offroad capabilities right away, as the links breake with any minor suspension flex. I am looking forward to get back to original tires and no lift. Think about it twice.

Ridgeline Racing

12-03-2008, 07:10 PM

striperman1

12-19-2008, 02:01 PM

thinking about this for my 08 rtx. but after reading that last post, seems like a lot of liability and porblems down the line. thanks for the honest info!

Houston hb

12-26-2008, 05:27 PM

So has it been settled yet, from what I have read the Truxx lift kit is the best bang for the buck plus there are no bad after effects with this unit? Or am I missing something. Plus what is the biggest tire you can go with while keeping your mud flaps and griding off some metal.

JJmoto

12-29-2008, 10:15 PM

Here are some pics of our new 2009 Ridgelines. They have 20" American Racing wheels, Nitto 285/50/20 Terra Grappler tires and Rancho 2" level kits.

The drive is improved and the overall look is 100x better!

Houston hb

12-31-2008, 09:33 AM

MikeT

12-31-2008, 10:05 AM

Lift kit = Long term bad news for the drive train.

northernlights

12-31-2008, 10:39 AM

Whats long term? I know someone with 85,000mi. on his now with no issues. Yet now and then I read someone has leaking boots or other problems that dont have a lift. Like Galvin said when fully extended, I have other off road toys for that.

geotech

12-31-2008, 10:58 AM

anybody ..............
Although I have the Rancho kit, I would gather from what I have read that the Truxx is the way to go if this is what you really want to do.

jayetnier

01-11-2009, 01:05 AM

jayetnier

01-11-2009, 01:33 AM

oops, here is the link:

http://www.hondanews.com/categories/804/releases/3093

Sorry, yet another moment of ADD :D

geotech

01-11-2009, 06:10 AM

Does this page (as linked below) inherently provide Honda's consent to the use Truxxx lift kits? It would seem that using this as an advertisement and justification for the purchase of current and future merchandise, bears the stamp of approval for all of the items on the truck.

Is this a fair assumption? I would like to get a lift kit, but am afraid of the potential geometry change for the CV joints. If I choose to get a lift, I want to make sure that any damage is covered by the warranty.

Thanks again!
You might be able to make the case for tacit approval. Notice the date of the article, Halloween 2005. Scary huh? ;) But Honda, at least in my experience, does not officially honor warranty for lift related parts failure. Although we have not had much issue with the lift since it was banned from moderate off road use, I personally would not do it again. This is why we have one at work, not three. See signature below. I subscribe to the "vehicle is already at design limits" theory about the RL.

jayetnier

01-12-2009, 02:21 AM

Whaleya

01-12-2009, 05:46 AM

Thanks for the response. I guess my main question is what types of off-road use will a stock RL take, and how much more can I do with 2 inches more clearance?

Living in Oregon sets me up for some great camping if your vehicle can get you there. No rock crawling by any means, but some desert trails and some logging roads for sure. Maybe another way to ask would be, can the RL handle the same offroad as a stock LandRover? FYI, I am planing to pick up a rack tent for my RL for these trips. Is this even the correct thread for this question?

Thanks again~

Stock, the Ridgeline has very low clearance. The added 2 inches gets it up to where most other trucks are when stock. There are no skid plates and the suspension is tuned for more city and highway driving verses off roading.

I have one of the first Ridgelines, have a Truxx kit on it and have taken it off road a number of times. On the freeway it is great, off road I really miss my Tacoma.

No, the ridgeline is not as capable off road as the Land Rover. It IS much better on road then the Land Rover. There are design tradeoffs is every truck.

I should caution that some members here claim that the Ridgeline will do everything and anything but this may have more to do with emotional justification then anything. I must say that even though the Ridgeline isn't the great off road I still love mine everytime I remember what it was like to drive my Jeep on the freeway

geotech

01-12-2009, 07:48 AM

Stock, the Ridgeline has very low clearance. The added 2 inches gets it up to where most other trucks are when stock. There are no skid plates and the suspension is tuned for more city and highway driving verses off roading.

I have one of the first Ridgelines, have a Truxx kit on it and have taken it off road a number of times. On the freeway it is great, off road I really miss my Tacoma.

No, the ridgeline is not as capable off road as the Land Rover. It IS much better on road then the Land Rover. There are design tradeoffs is every truck.

I should caution that some members here claim that the Ridgeline will do everything and anything but this may have more to do with emotional justification then anything. I must say that even though the Ridgeline isn't the great off road I still love mine everytime I remember what it was like to drive my Jeep on the freeway
Nicely put. I would add that with the lift, the clearance is sufficient to follow badly rutted trails, ford gentle streams, take terraces and cross most normal ditches. All of these should be done at a snail's pace as the suspension & tie rods are not beefy enough to permit pushing the vehicle. Even if they where, with no undercarriage protection, "walking" the unit would be necessary anyway.
I might add that it is a very capable climber, especially in the VSA off/VTM on second gear mode.

Wellsky33

01-15-2009, 12:28 PM

Are they ever going to make a lift that is bigger than 2 inches? Like a 3 or 4 inch lift? that would be pretty sweet

RkyMntHigh

01-21-2009, 04:07 AM

ChrisM

01-21-2009, 06:15 AM

Why do the include shorter sway bars?

The sway bars themselves are not shorter, the sway bar links which attach the sway bar to the suspension are shorter.

The lift kit mounts on top of the struts. This in effect moves the suspension mounting points which are north of the sway bar mounts on the suspension closer to bottom of the truck hence the need for the shorter sway bar links. The area between the suspension mount and the sway bar itself is shorter after the lift.

Most sway bar links on cars are very short. A lift kit on a car could result in no sway bar links or reversing the links or perhaps a longer sway bar links because the mounting points would either merge or pass each other. Trucks on the other hand have much longer distance between where the link mounts on the suspension and on the actual sway bar.

I thought the idea of shorter links was a little odd myself given that I was raising the truck, not lowering it.

TigerRidge

01-21-2009, 07:48 PM

I just ordered the Truxxx lift. Paid $400+tax for it from a local truck store. It's supposed to be here in 1.5 weeks.

I'm going to leave the stock tires on until they get good and wore out, then I'll upsize.

Some observations since I've gotten my truck on a Rotary Lift:

Recently, I've been doing "moderate" off-roading, with a "touch" of mud slinging, and these "trucks" are LOW! The skid plate located in the middle underneath the truck that protects some black box (VSA ?) is dangerously low. I hope that skid plate is made out of balls to the wall steel so rutty terrain won't destroy that box. I wouldn't say that anything I did would be considered "extreme" off-roading, and it definitely looks like that skid plate bottomed out.

Also, has anybody else noticed that the Parking brake line runs underneath the left support rail? This makes a brake line the LOWEST point on the truck. I don't know why Honda didn't run this line along the side of the rail, or inside of the rail. It would have been so easy.

In comparison my buddy has an '09 Tacoma Pre-Runner, and his under-carriage wasn't near as "scrape-y" looking as mine. I would almost say that a lift combined with larger tires is mandatory for any sort of off-roading.

A note to the flamers: I am well aware that this "truck" is not made for extreme off-roading, nor am I asking for it. However, I would say with 100% confidence that I am using this truck exactly how Honda advertised it could be used. Tough, meet classy.

SilverRidge08

01-21-2009, 08:27 PM

I just ordered my Truxxx lift from Fat Bob's Garage for $343.76 shipped next day air! Someone on the forum mentioned them and I couldn't believe the price! Will be here tomorrow.

Thanks for your info. on the install RkyMtnHigh, this should save a lot of time when tackling this project.;)

RkyMntHigh

01-22-2009, 04:53 AM

SilverRidge08

01-23-2009, 03:27 PM

Just got my Truxxx lift from the FedEx guy. Looks like a good quality set-up. I will install it tomorrow and send it down to have the alignment done. Will report back on how the ride is after the install.:D

SilverRidge08

01-25-2009, 02:42 PM

Finished installing the lift and took it for a ride. I feel as though the truck handles just as it does in the stock form, granted I only drove for about 10 miles. I know two inches doesn't seem like a lot, but on the Ridge it is noticeable. Pics on the web do it no justice!!

A big thank you to RkyMntHigh for pointing out that you should take the bolt out near the rear wheel carrier.:) It's almost impossible to get the strut out if you don't remove that bolt. This method will save a ton of time! I thought the Truxxx install instruction could have been a little better to be honest.

I'm sending the Ridge down to my tire shop on 1/31/09 to get the American Racing Teflon Fuels and Firestone Destination M/T's put on!:D They are also going to do the alignment. I also opted to get a full size spare in the same rim and tire. I will take photos next weekend and post them in the "before and after" thread!

PHILLYRIDGE

01-25-2009, 03:21 PM

Can't wait to see the after! I am waiting for my truxxx to come in as we speak!

66jj

02-11-2009, 07:41 PM

Are they ever going to make a lift that is bigger than 2 inches? Like a 3 or 4 inch lift? that would be pretty sweet

you can do it yourself, just look under there and make the spacers and get the longer bolts.

the whole rear suspension is held on by 6 bolts so you need 6 new 2 inch longer bolts and 6 2 inch spacers to do it. and a 4 inch spacer above the springs.

front is about the same but you need to make a 2 inch spacer and for the top motor mount. you also need two spacers and bolts for the joint in the middle of the driveshaft.

jj

japantuner

02-18-2009, 03:04 PM

i call the sales rep at king shocks today for inform if they sale the custom shocks like on the baja ridgeline and the guy tell me it's not available and anyway, the ridgeline are not supposed to be lift or drive off-road...

The guy tell me if i wanna do this mods to make sure and cut at the good place and king shocks are not responsable and don't wanna sale the product. Just go to speedshop or bough another truck...

disapointed ...

Josué

rebturtle

04-02-2009, 12:35 AM

An interesting thought....

Has anyone tried this kit out on a Pilot yet? They are, to the best of my knowledge, mechanically identical, right? The only tough spot I could see would be having to fab your own sway bar links, but any welding shop can cut and shorten them. Just an idea.... ;)

Riverratt

04-03-2009, 12:32 PM

So....I have read about all of the lift kit threads and I still do not have the answer I am looking for. My question is....What is the best Lift kit ?

DogBoneRTL

04-03-2009, 01:21 PM

So....I have read about all of the lift kit threads and I still do not have the answer I am looking for. My question is....What is the best Lift kit ?

Easy answer: Truxxx because of the sway bars.

Other then that, they are all the same.

Riverratt

04-03-2009, 01:44 PM

Not so easy to answer now :) http://www.rockymountainsusp.com/honda.htm

beast644

04-16-2009, 08:05 AM

So I have been looking at the Truxx kit for years, drooling and waiting for my first set of tires to wear thin. I have a question though. Does anyone do any towing with their Truxx kit on? I have a 20' boat and I am looking to get a camping trailer at some point and I don't want to sacrifice that ability to haul my toys around. I would love to hear your views on towing with this setup. Thanks!

SilverRidge08

04-16-2009, 09:25 AM

I tow my 4 place snowmobile trailer with the lift on my truck. No problems at all.

beast644

04-16-2009, 06:38 PM

Thanks for the reply. I have towed a few setups that were right at if not a little over the 5k limit and it handled them like a champ. I am just worried that I will really be beating the truck up if I am towing a 4600lb boat with a 2in lift kit on it. Everyone says the specs are pretty conservative and so far I believe it.

Anyone have the Truxx lift and tow right at the 5k limit for any extended period of time?

I am itching to put this lift on! I love the pics of all of your RL's standing tall!

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

avenger

04-22-2009, 02:23 PM

I just removed my 2" spacer lift after 2 week test.Front ball joints show signs of play,none was present before lift(due to bind at full extension).Front arm compliance bushing torn on both sides (due to over extension,same as ball joint).Small amount of cv joint grease being pushed out of cv boot at axle end clamp(due to too much cv plunge).Rear suspension droop limited by rear axle hitting subframe bracing(this kit has 2" rear spacer).At ride height with the spacers angles are ok but at extension damage IS being done!!!

.
As bad as I want to lift mine, this is exactly what I was afraid of.
Guess I'll just stick to the largest tires I can mount on my stock rims. It seems this would be 275-60-17's ? Does this sound right for max tire size ?

.

SilverRidge08

04-22-2009, 02:52 PM

.
As bad as I want to lift mine, this is exactly what I was afraid of.
Guess I'll just stick to the largest tires I can mount on my stock rims. It seems this would be 275-60-17's ? Does this sound right for max tire size ?

.

There are a few here on the ROC that have put several thousands of miles on their lifted Ridgelines with no wear on any components.

A lot of the damage can be done on the installation. It's easy to split the axle boots if you are not careful and you should do an alignment after the install.

Not sure, but I think DogBoneRTL has put thousands of miles on his lift with no damage to anything.

japantuner

04-23-2009, 07:09 PM

Why did skyjacker sell a kit with only the coil spacer and other kit with front sway bar and links.

Is it a parts who broken when lift?

Is it possible to lift without this part?

I try to read on all the definitive lift kit thread and still don,t understand...

What's best ?

Josué

northernlights

04-23-2009, 09:00 PM

I dont think I can compare my Ridge to what Racing Ridgeline does to his. Read his post carefully. I have over 30,000 miles on mine and a friend has over 100,000 on his lifted Ridge without any issues. I'm also saying it might not be the best for your truck after lets say 160,000 miles without replacing a CV or two...........maybe :D

northernlights

04-23-2009, 09:07 PM

One other thing, the Truxxx lift is different than the others. Truxxx uses a different method of studs on the spacers. And the Skyjacker kit is 2" in rear vs 1 1/2" Truxxx.

BiZzKiTtKiLlA

05-01-2009, 10:23 AM

Is the 275-60-17 the biggest tire that can be put on the Ridgeline OEM rim without the lift kit?

.
As bad as I want to lift mine, this is exactly what I was afraid of.
Guess I'll just stick to the largest tires I can mount on my stock rims. It seems this would be 275-60-17's ? Does this sound right for max tire size ?

.

asf

05-04-2009, 10:41 AM

I am new to the ROC, but I have read many of the threads, and I appreciate the help!

Does this page (as linked below) inherently provide Honda's consent to the use Truxxx lift kits? It would seem that using this as an advertisement and justification for the purchase of current and future merchandise, bears the stamp of approval for all of the items on the truck.

Is this a fair assumption? I would like to get a lift kit, but am afraid of the potential geometry change for the CV joints. If I choose to get a lift, I want to make sure that any damage is covered by the warranty.

Thanks again!

Don't take offense to this - but my personal opinion is this is the same as asking if I put a nascar motor used by chevy factory teams in my monte carlo and the transmission blows up because it couldnt handle the gazillion extra horses will chevy warranty it because their race teams use that motor?

Honda made the vehicle as they sold it off their lots, and every part was only designed for those specs. If the kit changes the geometry of the CV joints, and that leads to excessive wear, I fail to see how that can be argued as Honda's fault?

There is a very similar expectation with autocrossers and track junkies... many go out and buy a new car with a warranty, drive like schumacher, and then when the tranny whines or the brakes wear out they try to claim it under warranty. Then what ends up happening is the dealers get so many bunk claims that they even start to deny or harass owners with legitimate claims. Legitimate defects that surface faster in the crowds who modify and race their cars are viewed by the factory as a result of "owner abuse" and then the guys who just wanted a sporty daily driver end up having to deal with the factory denying legitimate claims.

Anyways, you can always try to claim it under warranty, and I am sure many service stations will cover it, but ultimately I wouldn't build up any expectation that this will or should happen.

pmbaseball24

05-27-2009, 02:27 PM

Just finished up my Truxxx lift install. In total it took about 6 hours. The toughest part is getting the front struts back in once the spacer is added. :mad: If anyone has any questions feel free to answer, I'd be glad to give some insight now that i'm all done!

geotech

06-13-2009, 09:33 AM

Ok, good news/bad news. The left front started making a clicking sound when making tight turns at low speeds. At it became worse the front left would try to wobble at highway speeds on cruise control. The wobble would stop under acceleration or putting the vehicle into neutral (change in power distribution front/back). All indication was that the inner/outer joint/axle was the problem. That's the bad news. I was concerned (convinced?) that the lift was the main source of the issue, considering that the most extreme axle angle is the left side front. I wanted the lift removed while this was being fixed. Examination of the joints and shaft revealed that the bearings had gotten wet and what lubricant was left was fried. This no doubt dates back to the bad install of the lift in the first place and/or the time (at about 40k) the left lower boot had to be replaced due to a serious cut (and who knows how long that had happened), probably done on one of the many trips off road this truck used to take. No impact related marks were found within the assembly. Because of the service manager and technician's postmortem, the lift remains. Not necessarily the reason the joints failed. That's the good news. The Ridge is back to work!

Shep53

06-19-2009, 12:29 AM

I started to get a front end wobble no to long ago. I took it in to the dealership today. They told me the front axles are worn out. Honda said it was a direct result of the lift and tires. Honda, not the dealership, will not cover the repairs under warranty. Axles are expensive and I'm not sure what to do. I noticed the front inner boots have been leaking for some time. The dealership has never mentioned this and I have it serviced there for every service. I told the service manager about this. I wonder if this also lead to the axle problem. Does anyone have input or ideas on what I should do from here? If I was towing all of the time, the front axle angle would be nearly the same as it is with the lift. Any info would be great. Thanks,

geotech

06-19-2009, 05:52 AM

smokeondavidp69

07-13-2009, 11:34 PM

I would like to know, what mod's that Honda did to the Ridgeline that they raced in Baja, some of the spec's so they had a 35 inch tire, I wonder if they had a special suspension lift.

Me too! I wish I could get a header like the one on the baja Ridgeline because thats the only one in the world!

nondem

07-19-2009, 11:25 PM

I just finished installing the Truxx 2”/1.5” kit on my 2006 RTS w/80K miles. This truck is one of the first 10K made. I finally wore the OEM tires out. I'm putting Michelin LTX M/S 255/70R17's on the OEM wheels tomorrow after getting the alignment done. I read all I could find here and elsewhere before deciding on and installing the Truxx.
I still ended up learning a few things during the install that I hope to pass them on to the next guy.
So here are my notes on the lift install:
With a lift/air tools and a buddy it took about 4 hours. It can be done w/o a lift – but if it’s at all possible – FIND A LIFT.
Front:
The instructions said to remove the axle-nut. We pulled the nut but the axle shaft is semi-“pressed” into the spindle/rotor. Unless you hammer/press the shaft “out” of the spindle – it isn’t coming out and simply pulling the nut has no effect . After an attempt at hammering it out w/o damage we decided to leave it in and closely watch the CV/Boot Situation as we proceeded. As it worked out none of them "came apart" or even seemed closed to doing so. It IS important to put a rag on the outer boots to protect them from the bottom of the strut while you struggle with removal and install with the added length of the spacer.
The instructions don't mention it but you have to disconnect the brake line bracket and wheel speed(or is it TPM?) sensor wire clips from the strut so you can completely remove the strut. When removing the strut - Take your time and maneuver the lower end in towards the tranny and then to the back of the truck and finally down so you can pull the top out of the wheel well while making sure not to snag the brake line etc....with the lower end of the bracket. You have to pull down on the spindle assembly to make everything clear as you pull the strut. I was constantly concerned about pulling the inner CV joint boot off while doing this but it didn't happen.
Attach the lift spacer to the strut while it’s out of the vehicle and during reinstall fasten the strut top nuts loosely first till you get the big lower strut bolts in. The upper strut mount nuts under the hood aren't too bad - but have a magnet retrieval tool and a way to make the nuts stick in a socket handy. Finesse with a small pry bar and drift pins help with the installing lower strut mounting bolts.
TAKE NOTE:
The sway-bar links are more of a pain than I initially thought. Mine came with orange dust covers in addition to clear inner boots that actually sealed them.
The nuts on the new ones are a different size than OEM.
Remove the top of each link on both sides of the front where they connect to the strut first. Then you can maneuver the bottom of each link up so you can get a tool on them MUCH easier. Then put the new links on each side lower end first. The orange covers seem ill fitting and they make assembly a little more aggravating. I doubt they serve much purpose beyond eye candy since the clear/inner boots are what seals the joints.
Rear:
The rear was slightly easier - It goes by the numbers but one thing will save you time: After you get everything disconnected and have the rear struts out - Instead of mounting the spacers to the strut while it’s out like you did with the front - mount the new spacers to the truck first - then bolt the struts(rotated 180) to the spacer. You'll see why when you do it
The only other tip for the rear involves getting the bolt that attaches the swing arm to the spindle to line up during reassembly. We ended up putting a board under the end of the swing arm and lowering the lift so that it pushed the swing arm up helping with the alignment. Once it's close you can use muscle, a pry bar and drift pins to make the final alignment.
The bolts on the rear are self-aligning and were surprisingly resistant to cross threading. That is very helpful when you are depending on a hand-sledge and "English" to get things installed.
One last note: The instructions say to lower vehicle to ground before final tightening of the swing arm bolts. That’s all well and good except you can’t get an impact wrench on the spindle/swing arm bolt with the tire installed. So, we put the tires on, lowered the truck and tightened everything but that bolt. Then we raised the truck and pulled the rear tires again to tighten that bolt.
I’ll post back if I have anything useful to report with the alignment and tire fitment.