Infinity 6022si Front and Rear Install tips & guide

[JuiceGoose]

Okay guys yesterday i got my new speakers (Infinity 6022si's) from crutchfield I couldn't be happier with what I recieved. Heres what was in the box
1. 2 sets of Infinity 6022si 6 1/2 speakers
2. 2 sets of mounting rings from crutchfield
3. 2 sets of speaker wiring harness'(so its just a plug and play operation NO SPLICING) yippy!
4. 1 set of panel removal instructions(useless if you have the ROC ones)
(see picture 1)

Also Inside each Speaker box is a set of installation instructions(also useless and you'll understand why when you get your speakers)some foam speaker weatherstriping(not needed)infinity's mounting hardware(metal ring and plastic ring-again not needed)as well as a infinity sticker and the speaker covers(for the aftermarket non hidden application(not used)

I'm not going to go into alot of detail on door panel removal simply because it's discussed in other posts(very well i might add) i will however give some insight onto what I found to work best.

1. When you are removing the trim from the front doors the easiest way to remove the sail panel is by sliding a screwdriver in the top(as shown in picture 2) until it stops on the clip and slowly pulling outward.
(see picture 2)

2. Take out all the bulbs for the doors so you don't have to worry about battery drain or breaking the bulb when you twist out the connector.


3. The easist way I found to remove the panel(after the proper screws have been takin out, see Front Door speaker Upgrade How-To (pt 1))
is to start at the outside bottom edge(there is enough room to get your fingers in there)and slowly move your hand, pulling out slightly, till one of the keepers pops loose. Then slowly move down in the same motion to release the rest. if you just yank on the door expect to break a clip holder or two!


4. Once you've released the door from the panel the easist way I found to disconnect both front and rear connectors is by holding the door with one hand(just grab the built in handle on the door panel, got to love honda)and looking down from the top of the panel untwist the door bulb connector, and feel for the electrical door connectors. There will be a small clip you must push in on each electrical connector to be able to release it from the socket. Also on the door light wires there is a blue connector that basically just holds extra wire. you'll need to pull up on the middle tab and then slide the connector out from the bottom(sorry i don't have a picture study the connector and you'll understand, it kind of works like a zip tie)


5. Now the only door I really had trouble with was the drivers door and even then only one of the connectors was a pain in the rear so here is what I did. Take apart the panel as described and disconnect all the electrical connectors except the largest one(it's wider then the rest and in the middle of the others). I was able to get all the connectors off except the largest one in the center of the arm rest described above. Instead of prying off or pulling on the wires I simply slide my tool box under the panel and rotated it out of the way. I was able to get to the speaker no problem and avoided tearing up a harness(trust me I really tried to get that sucker out (not worth the possible consequences)
(see pic 3)


FRONT SPEAKERS.

1. To remove the front and rear speakers properly watch my video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qJUh128i_Jk

2. As far as the new front speakers are concerned it's pretty straight forward. Cut off the two larger tabs (or simply bend them till they snap off) on the adapter ring. Then lay the speaker in the ring and align the larger tab(on the ring) with the top hole on the speaker(meaning just have them line up). Then take a drill(make sure to use a bit slightly smaller then the black screw supplied with the speakers) and make a hole in the ring for the top screw in the speaker. You want to make sure the hole drilled is smaller then the screw but not by much, just enough not to break the plastic when the screw is inserted. Once you've drilled the first hole insert a screw to hold the speaker to the ring and then move to center up the speaker as best as possible(won't be hard there isn't much wiggle room) then just repeat the first process for the other 3 remaining screws you'll end up with this
(see picture 4).


3. Now for the mounting of the front speakers. Some have suggested using tape to find center. Personally this is freakin useless as there isn't much room for the speaker to NOT be centered(no offense to partys offended of course)Lets continue, You'll take your freshly put together speaker assembly(speaker and ring) and insert it into the old speaker hole. Align the top(longer) mounting hole of the ring straight up and then using a black marker place a drill mark in the center of the oblonged hole and also outline the tab on the door plastic(you'll need to cut some of the plastic away from under the tab). Using the same drill bit used for the black screws drill that dot(make sure you remove the speaker assembly first). Take the speaker wire connector(supplied from crutchfield and connect it to your door wires then your speaker then reinsert the speaker in the door and use one of the supplied pan head silver screws(came with the mounting kit from crutchfield) into the top hole.


NOTE: use a manual screw driver as an electric will overtighten and subsequently strip the freshly made hole( i did it and ya it sucks). Once the speaker is connected and the top screw is installed you can use self tapping screws on the bottom two screws,ya i'd go invest in some of these, 1" long with your electric drill(be carefull not to tear your speaker up, you'll need the electric drill at first because you can't turn your hand fast enough for the screw to work properly BUT DON"T SCREW THE SCREW ALL THE WAY IN! allow the drill to help the screw make it's hole then use a manual screw driver to tighten it down) (see picture 6 for how it should look)

Also note that you could simply mark and drill all three holes and use the supplied screws that came with the mounting kit. The main and most important thing to remember is that you want to minimilize the amount of times you screw in those screws to your door. Each time they will not get as tight until eventually they just spin and now you have a rattle!


4. Now that the speaker is installed simply take your door panel making sure to take any white clips that may have stayed in your door and put them back in the panel. Connect all electrical connections slide the top of the door panel in between the window and door and then once all is lined up slightly tap the edge of the door so the clips pop back in. Screw the door panel back together And reinstall the door handle assembly and your done with the fronts


REAR doors.

1. The rear door panel removal is identical to the front only the sail panel is a little tricky to get off and put on. I found no easy way to get it off other then just using the technique like on the front with a little more finess. Also the wires are shorter for the rear so be warned.

REAR SPEAKERS


2. The rear door new speaker install is a little tricky because the adaptor ring doesn't want to sit flush on the door(you'll see it's just a little bit). What I ended up doing was dry fitting the speaker in the ring(no screws just holding it in the hole up against the door) and then rotating the ring until all the tabs fit best(make sure you remove the two large tabs like the front rings). Once I had the ring where it would fit on all three tabs I made sure my speaker was straight and level and then marked on the ring where i needed to drill the top hole for the speaker(the top speaker hole will be offset from the top ring hole). One I located the top speaker hole it was basically a repeat from the fronts, drill the holes and screw the speaker to the ring. Now once the speaker assembly was together I connected the wiring harness to the door wires and again dry fit the assembly into the door. this time I made a mark for the top hole and drilled it then wired the speaker and installed the speaker with a screw(with a manual screwdriver remember!). The bottom two I again used self tapping screws just to save time.
I guess I should explain why I didn't use self tappers up top. Well 2 reasons, one the self tapping screws, for those that don't know, basically have a little drill bit on the tip that makes it's on hole. This is great but the shavings i didn't want falling onto my speaker and remember you only want to screw those screws in once if you can. ESPECIALLY SELF TAPPING SCREWS! so drilling a hole then installing a self tapper i didn't want to do.
(see pic 7 for how the back doors came out)

Note that the inboard most edge of the ring(note 1) will just barely not sit flush because of the curve of the door. I know what your thinking and Don't cry my little ones! just get it as flush as you can and screw that puppy in.

Once the speaker is installed just reinstall the panel in reverse making sure to again put all the white clips that might have stayed in the door back onto the panel then putting the panel on.
The sail panel on the rear windows is a little tricky to put back on. I found if you slide it in from the center of the window out, and then push the clip in it worked best.

K now for my opinion on sound. I wouldn't go as far as to say it's like night and day simply because I was realistic about what I was getting. I will say however that if you are looking for a cleaner less distorted, muddy, mumbled sound then you need to do the upgrade. My settings as of right now are
sub +6
bass-2,-1
treble +6
and of course front to rear and side to side are equal.

I hope this little write up helps guys and if you have any questions let me know. oh the link to the door removal guide previously posted is here. Front Door speaker Upgrade How-To (pt 1)

he gave a pretty good writeup on door panel removal and i just couldn't beat that.

[JuiceGoose]

here are the other pics

[shovelhd]

Nicely done.

[JuiceGoose]

k i had some other pictures i figure would help
picture 1 -

There are two screws behind the door handle to acces them place a little screwdriver on the bottom edge of the cover plate(1) behind the handle and just pop the plate off.

picture 2 -

here are the 2 screws behind the panel you used removed in pic 1. They are 7mm and you'll need a extention to make it easy. Oh and take off the rear one first otherwise holding the handle out to get to the front one will put alot of stress on the rear screw.

picture 3-4 -
This is how to take the door handle wire off the handle once you've removed the screws in pic 2.
using your fingers or carefully using pliers as a lever pop the green grommet from the holder(1)
Then using your fingers or that same carefull set of pliers pop the white keeper off of the metal ball joint (pic 4- 1)

picture 5 -

This is the rear sail panel removed. You can see in the picture that unlike the front sail panel the rear has 2 extra little clips or holders(1) in addition to the normal clip(2). Like i stated in the original posti couldn't find and easy way to get this one off because there is a trim piece on the backside the doesn't make it easy. Reassembly though is made easier by taking the panel sliding it along the door panel(from center towards edge) which will engage the lower clips then just poping the upper clip in.

[e_piph_a_ny]

Thanks for taking the time to record and write down the installation process. A great primer for the rest of us. Looks great!

[tjdfw]

Go nimbus grey!

Nice write up.

[hofffam]

Nice and valuable contribution!

[rakapur]

did you drill new holes in to the door???

[rakapur]

i found an adapter that has the clips and its made FOR THE RIDGELINE Stereo Stereo Speaker Adapter Honda Ridgeline 06 2006 - eBay (item 110128832025 end time May-12-08 16:51:31 PDT)
i just ordered some for me hopefully they work, i'll keep you guys posted on this and try to load some pictures of it
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[JRohe]

Originally Posted by rakapur

i found an adapter that has the clips and its made FOR THE RIDGELINE Stereo Stereo Speaker Adapter Honda Ridgeline 06 2006 - eBay (item 110128832025 end time May-12-08 16:51:31 PDT)
i just ordered some for me hopefully they work, i'll keep you guys posted on this and try to load some pictures of it
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rakapur-
I think I found the same speaker adapters through another outlet as well. I ordered them with (2) sets of 6.5" Blaupunkt GTx652 speakers and they should be in tomorrow. I don't know when I'll get a chance to install them, but I'll keep you posted if I get to it before you do.
-JRohe