Day Time Running Lights - self-install summary

[vertrkr]

I bought the Hamsar 45030 kit from PUMA (1-800-354-3552) for about $45.
http://www.hamsar.com/drlkits.htm

(PS. I recently learned the 45035 kit will also work, the difference is the 45035 runs the hi-beams at 60% reduction while the 45030 runs the low-beams at 24% reduction. PSS. I swapped out my old module with the hi-beam 45035 one. I simply just plugged in the new module and only had to switch/reverse the hi/low beam wire connections, everthing else was left as before.)

Below I'll detail for the 45030 kit where each wire hooks up and also 6 pics (for the 45035 just reverse the low/hi beam connections). They work as advertised but note if you have fog lights they will also power up that circuit so you'll have to turn off the foglights during the day if you don't want them on. Apparently the foglights tap into the power from the low-beam headlight circuit so there's no easy way to get around this. Of course if you use the 45035 kit this is not an issue since the fogs lights are automatically turned off by having the hi-beams on.



DRL wires -> Honda wires
Black - ground to fender wall
Red - driver side fuse box power, white/bolt
White - low beam red/yellow
Orange - high beam white/yellow
Green - yellow in under dash driver side fuse/relay box
Blue - black/white in under dash driver side fuse/relay box
Yellow - green/orange parking brake wire

I used the included tap splices for all except the two under the dash wires, Green & Blue as the honda wires were too thick. I cut away the insulation on them and hard wired them in with solder.

The ground was a short wire and I found a close by hole in the fender wall, I used a dremel to grind off the paint and attached with a nut/bolt and then repainted any bare metal surface still showing.

[vertrkr]

3 more pics with one showing the final clean up with all wires covered.

[rdhplano]

Great instructions!! Thanks

[danimal]

nice writeup! thanks =)

[bongus]

Excellent instructions and photos. I did have one difference in my install. The low beam wires were not Red Green but they were Red Yellow. I tapped my DRL module using the driver's side headlamp connector.

[vertrkr]

Originally Posted by bongus

Excellent instructions and photos. I did have one difference in my install. The low beam wires were not Red Green but they were Red Yellow. I tapped my DRL module using the driver's side headlamp connector.

Opps, my mistake, I quoted the color from the passenger side which apparently is a different color wire. I've corrected my table above with the correct wire color. Thanks for pointing that out.

[Ahab]

Great job! Thank you!

[SE_RidgeRunner]

Thanks for the excellent instructions and photos. I found the under dashboard work to be a bit cramped but doable.

I picked up some larger tap splices at Pep Boys to connect the blue and green wires to the relay box wires.

[jch]

Very nicely done! Thanks for taking the time to document.

[Ultra-HOG]

Very nicely done! Thank you. This is a project that is high on my to do list. Your post will make the installation much easier. The only note or comment that I have based on the pictures is that there should be a fuse as close as possible, preferably within 6", of the "Red wire mounts to bolt on drivers side fusebox".

For those that may be reading that are electrically challenged, a fuse placed at the far end of the (red) power wire does not protect the wire itself, only the devices beyond the fuse. The reason is that the bolt appears to be the main power bus input to the fuseblock. If it is, and if the red wire shorts to ground for any reason such as vibration / abrasion, accident, pinch as a result of engine bay service, etc., the red wire will burn until in melts apart. In the process of burning, it will light up just like the element in a toaster and can burn through other wires causing massive damage. A fuse placed at the source, in this case at the bolt in the fuse block, a short anywhere beyond the fuse will blow the fuse. If there is a fuse link for the entire fuse block it may not blow in time to prevent a fire. An inline fuse holder can be purchased at any auto parts store, Wal Mart or similar, or any electronics store for about $2.00. The size of the fuse should be the same size as the fuse that protects the accessory that is being installed.

I have seen the results of accessories installed without a fuse at the source many times. Years ago I was in the back seat of a car that had a CB set (ya, it was a long time ago!) connected directly to the under dash fuse block. When we parked and started to get out the power wire got pinched in the seat hinge and instantly lit up the entire length of the power wire. It was glowing red hot and instantly filled the entire car with thick smoke. It burned the drivers hands and leg severely and burned a long stripe deeply into the seat and carpet. Fortunately, other than the drivers hands and leg, we all got out with minor injuries and smoke inhalation. If he had installed a 50 cent fuse at the fuse block the only damage would have been the 50 cent fuse. If we were still on the highway when the short happened - who knows...