Replacing Brake Pads

[shovelhd]

Sometimes I gotta make a six sigma stop.

[Lingered_I]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

Sometimes I gotta make a six sigma stop.

[Mtnman]

It may not be true with Honda, but some have had repeated rotor warping problems with OEM rotors. After changing to QUALITY brand name (i.e. Raybestos, Brembo) the warping problems have gone away. The theory is that the OEM are so cost conscious that they have the min. amount of material and alloy for the rotors. Where as the after market is more focused on brake performance, and the customer is not as cost and weight conscious.

Also some are so concerned about brake pad life that they disregard the wear that this puts on the rotors due to the harder pads. I would rather replace pads more often for longer rotor life. Rotor replacement is much more expensive (parts/labor) than pads.

[shovelhd]

Do you have any suggestions for aftermarket rotors for the Ridgeline?

[rdharper]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

Sometimes I gotta make a six sigma stop.

You be funny... even while being half serious.

Anyway, of course I meant 3 sigma of normal user population. Which sure as hell should include some heavy usage. If 97% of owners never reported a brake problem... then I'd say this is ok... as 3% will report problems on anything.

For what its worth, I looked up brake problems for the Ridge on CR... shows their highest reliability rating for both years.

This doesn't negate your case obviously. Just that fewer users are reporting brake problems than the mean.

[shovelhd]

I would not call my issue a problem. I'll wait until the pads are at 3/4 worn and replace both them and the rotors.

[Mtnman]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

Do you have any suggestions for aftermarket rotors for the Ridgeline?

I haven't had to any brake work on mine yet and have not looked into it yet. I would look at Raybestos first since they have a good rep. and are a local co.

[Mtnman]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

I've been doing my own brake jobs for years, and I always use new hardware. It costs more, but it's worth it, as it takes less time, and the end result can often be better. I also use OEM parts exclusively.

One thing to remember if you're getting close to 3 years of ownership...flush the brake fluid.

Since you mention flushing the brake fluid, one of the most over looked service items. Did you notice that the bleeding sequence in shop manual is the opposite of what most of domestic brands show?
I was taught to bleed the wheel furthest (RR) from the master cylinder first and the next furthest and so on.
Honda starts at LF,RF,RR,LR.
Has anyone tried these https://www.speedbleeder.com/
or have an opinon on them.

[CUinaRidge]

Originally Posted by RRIDER

For $275, was that just the fronts or rears? I can't imagine getting a 4 wheel brake job with 2 new rotors done for that price anywhere, especially at a dealer. for just the fronts, with the cost of parts, $180 for rotors, approx $45 for a set of pads, you got it done for $50 labor? Thats a good deal in my book! My Stealer wanted $30 labor to just rotate tires.

I corrected my original post - 260 parts 130 labor. It was the rears, the fronts are better than 50%.

[RustyH]

Doing you own brakes is something I would highly recommend. It's not hard, you get to go out and buy some new tools, it's way cheaper than paying someone else and you get a sense of accomplishment. Even if you don't buy the parts from Honda, IMHO way to expensive, you can get excellent quality brakes from your local auto parts store. With only 6,600 miles on my Ridgeline, I'm a long way from a brake job, but I've got to add my two cents experience with my other vehilces. On my 98 Ford Expedition, lifted with 35" tires, I put 250,000 miles on it, with 10 front brake jobs and four rear brake jobs. At the time, I purchased lifetime "free replacement" warranty pads from my local checker. They've since stopped doing this, but I can still get free replacement pads if I wanted. The orginal pads cost me about 50 bucks, but I've never pad for a replacement. About the same for the rears. I've replaced my rotors (all four) three times. The first time I replaced them with stock, the second and third with drilled and got much better braking. Forget slotted unless you want your pads to wear out faster. I only turned my rotors one time, when the brakes wore in on a road trip and I couldn't get them changed in time. Otherwise, I left them alone, did a cross sanding with 220 grit to remove any obvious burs, oil or grease and installed new pads. I didn't notice any difference in braking performance between having the rotors turned or not. I also replaced both front and rear calipers with new ones purchased on ebay at the 200,000 mile mark. Nothing was really wrong with the old ones, but the ones for sale had such a great price, I couldn't pass it up. One tool I would suggest is getting a compressor, it doesn't have to be big, one of those 100 dollars ones if fine and getting a power flusher for the brake fluid. Makes doing a brake rebuiled a lot easier.
So grab your floor jack and jackstands, or go buy them if you don't have them, and get busy.

PS...When you're doing the brakes, do front, then back and don't forget to chock your front tires and release the emergency brake when doing the back brakes. Nothing is more fun than spending an hour trying to remove a rear rotor only to find out the brake was left on and you beat the rotor to death before discovering your mistake.

Whoa....way to much soda for me today. See you on the road.