Pictures of Brake Upgrade

[shovelhd]

Thanks for the answers. I guessed pretty much everything right but I thought it might help the others.

While doing my A1 service yesterday I checked the brake pads all around. The fronts have at least 50% left. The rears have about 1/8" left which concerns me. I don't like to run the pads all the way down, so I try and plan out when to do them. I also would rather not do a brake job in the winter. I'm at 57K.

Can you give me an idea of what these EBC rotors and pads cost for both front and rear? I usually prefer the OEM but if you say these are better then I'll certainly take a look when it's time.

[G2Turbo]

Originally Posted by 5S Dude

Hey G2, can these EBC units be acquired online and if so, can you provide a website link? What did you upgrade to regarding the different brake fluid? Thanks a ton. Great photos too.

Nevermind, found um.
EBC Brakes - Brake Pads | Brake Rotors | Cross Drilled Rotors | Slotted Rotors | Motorcycle Brakes

Sorry I missed this one. You'll find the rotors at several on-line retailers. Finding the pads, is a different story. I'm not sure if any link will help.

The yellow pads I have are the first in the country. From what the Pres/founder of EBC told me these are the only set made. I had to wait over 2 months to get them. I am not aware of any being imported into the US at this time.

I'm not exactly sure how to handle helping people get them. There are other choices, but I'm not "up" on who has what and if it's actually available.

Probably the best way for people on this forum to cause some sway is to let me know they want to buy these pads and I can pass the request on. I might be able to get orders made, if we did a "group buy", or something similar.

I've used Valvoline Synthetic fluid for years on all my street cars. It's cheap, readily available, and so far has worked great (exceeds DOT 4 and 5 specs from what i remember). I used Castrol LMA also for many years but it would get contaminated very quickly, and would boil causing brake fade. That's about all I have for hands on experience, aside from using LOTS of regular DOT 3&4 in customers cars that we bought in 5 gallon jugs.

I've kept an eye on the brake fluid and it's getting dark- time for a flush. No matter the color I still flush the brake every 2yrs for my daily driven cars. Brake fluid can absorb 12% by volume of water even in this time. Not good; it'll cause internal rusting and premature brake failure. Of the thousands of cars I've worked on only a few customers would listen to me and regularly flush their brakes. It's actually scary. Remember the next time someone is tail gating you, realize this is their driving habit, and most likely the brake system is in mediocre condition, even on a "newer" car. Don't be one of them.

[shovelhd]

I also believe in brake fluid flushes. I do it for every brake job.
I was able to find some info on the rotors and the Green Stuff pads, but nothing about the Yellow Stuff. Can you explain the difference and why you had special pads made? Are the Green Stuff good enough for street use? TIA.

[5S Dude]

Thanks a ton G2, I know the postal service and military vehicles use silicone based DOT-5 and I had converted our Winnebago over to it before we sold it because we found rusty wheel cylinders at each corner during it’s last brake job. However, I haven’t experienced any fade towing our trailer down from the mountains and don’t track my Ridgeline around curvy roads like a few of my friend’s do so I think the standard fluid should suffice. I simply love the look of the cadmium-plated rotors because after every detailing session my eyes are directed to my ugly rusting disks and hubs. Great post!

[schwejo]

Thanks for all the good reading…

I sure like this thing: Mityvac

It’s an attachment for a Mityvac fluid extractor, but can’t see any reason why you couldnt make it work just as well with a Pela. If you don’t have a dedicated bleed kit then this is a well spent $20 addition to a fluid extractor. Sure beats the high school days where you stuck a hose in a jar of a little brake fluid at each wheel and had a buddy depress the pedal and while trying to keep reservoir topped up.

This requires a little more research on my part, but I’ve also used the Valvoline synthetic brake fluid for quite a few years. Supposedly synthetic brake fluids don’t have the water absorption problems that traditional brake fluids do. We all knew that of course, and that’s quite appealing, but I’ve also read in various magazines over the years that true synthetic brake fluids are not compatible with traditional brake fluids and that if you switch you need more than just a traditional flush (as in disassemble and flush the master cylinder and calipers) to prevent problems.

The Valvoline “synthetic” fluid claims to not need this level of a flush to use it, so what gives? Is my information flawed or is the Valvoline synthetic fluid some type of blended or other product? It may also be that my reading on the subject isn’t necessarily current and that seals and such on older cars didn’t tolerate synthetic brake fluids as well after having been operated in traditional brake fluid. Any experts care to shed some light or share their experiance? thanks

[shovelhd]

I have the Silverline kit.

Mityvac

[schwejo]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

I have the Silverline kit.

Mityvac

Nice, always nice to have the correct tools for the job. Not that we haven’t all had to improvise from time to time- but mostly hopefully within the limits of good sense??

[alexander]

do they make noise when you drive ? all of the drilled rotors I've seen including mine you can hear air passing through the cross drilled holes

[G2Turbo]

Originally Posted by shovelhd

I also believe in brake fluid flushes. I do it for every brake job.
I was able to find some info on the rotors and the Green Stuff pads, but nothing about the Yellow Stuff. Can you explain the difference and why you had special pads made? Are the Green Stuff good enough for street use? TIA.

The brake fluid flush was left out due to time constraints this time. I'm used to only working on car lifts, and did this at home. I still have the rear Yellow Stuff pads to install, so will follow up then. Besides bleeding rear brakes is always more of a hassle due to access limitations.

I chose the yellow pads based on what EBC told me, and has in their printed matter. Also having used the Green Stuff pads with Zimmerman (made in Germany) rotors several years ago, gave me some perspective.

The GreenStuff pads overall worked great, maybe even better than advertised. I did not 'track' the car (3400lb audi), or even drive it very hard much to truly test them. Once again, reduced brake bite/grab, and a more progressive feel, nearly zero brake dust, were my observations.

The only down side was they tended to squeek once burnished. Light braking would cause this. Moderate levels would eliminate it, but this bothered me for normal driving. Every few months I'd rescuff the rotors and that would solve it. There is a newer version of the Greenstuff pads so this side effect may not occurr any more.

The Ridgeline is much heavier and has brakes sized pretty close to the Audi, plus has an auto trans, where the Audi did not. Engine braking isn't as good, however for an auto, the Honda is the best I've driven for a truck.

Combined with more weight, some towing duty and wanting to try something new, with supposedly longer wear and better heat tolerance, the yellow pads seemed worthy and better suited.

The pads were "made" for me, but it's really more of a slow intro to the market place, I think. There are retailers "selling" the yellow pads, but they can't supply them, and may not have them for awhile.

[G2Turbo]

Originally Posted by schwejo

Thanks for all the good reading…

I sure like this thing: Mityvac

It’s an attachment for a Mityvac fluid extractor, but can’t see any reason why you couldnt make it work just as well with a Pela. If you don’t have a dedicated bleed kit then this is a well spent $20 addition to a fluid extractor.


The Valvoline “synthetic” fluid claims to not need this level of a flush to use it, so what gives? Is my information flawed or is the Valvoline synthetic fluid some type of blended or other product? Any experts care to shed some light or share their experiance? thanks

A Mityvac is a poor device for bleeding brakes in my experience. It uses suction to pull fluid. It's not possible to see if air bubbles are in the lines or any water dropplets are present (yes, water drops). It doesn't work so great because the M/C piston is not moving, opening and closing the ports to let fluid thru. It might even be possible to add air to a brake system, using a vaccum. When the bleeder valve is opened, it pulls air between the threads of the valve. I think a tradtional bleed/flush is much safer, plus the ability to build up PSI helps to purge contamination better. Better yet pay a tech $80 to power flush the brake system, or buy the proper tool


I think the conditions describe the old silicone fluid. Being an inert substance it doesn't swell the seals like normal DOT 3 or 4 fluid does. One of the reasons it would often leak. I've never done anything more than a standard two man flush with the Valvoline fluid and no problems yet, or signs of trouble.

Almost certain that even though it's synthetic it's formulated to meet DOT specs and compatibility requirements. I don't know what it's made of. The Feds are very strict about automotive braking systems with one exception I'm aware of: aftermarket brake pads (non OE). Not sure why.