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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2008, 12:15 AM
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2006 Nighthawk Black / Beige RTL
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 91
Thumbs up Pictures of Brake Upgrade

This is a follow up to my other post about brakes for our trucks. I chose EBC brand.

The "job" is very straight forward. If you're picky, there are many little details that can be done ensure the best possible results. I did them all, and there are more than one might think

To start with, here's visuals. If you would like an explanation on anything please let me know. I'll get around to replacing the rear pads soon, too. I'm now shopping for rotors again.....

If you're wondering, the brakes so far are GREAT. Even one day of driving shows vast improvement. I can't believe how much better the brake pedal feels-- of course it doesn't pulsate-- brake grab is almost eliminated, the action is progressive and with good modulation. The last two points being very important for me. These are the essential observations under normal driving conditions. I've yet to really test the performance and once broken in -- EBC says 500 miles -- they should be even better.

Expectations have already been exceeded
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Gary

06 Ridgeline RTL S/R, Nighthawk Black, now 23K miles, 20" wheels in the garage; EBC Brake Upgrade; Winter Wear: 17" OE wheels and new Yokohama AT/S 275/60's; S/S nerf bars, S/S bull bar, Hella Fog lights, K&N air and oil filter, Amsoil Synthetic oil. Soon: FIAM air horn; Brake Fluid upgrade.


FS: 1999 BMW M3 Dinan 2dr Coupe, 5spd, only 83K miles, Loaded, $$$$ in upgrades, new tires and brakes, 30+ MPG and 275HP! ONLY $15,850
www.autotrader.com zip code: 97426
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2008, 07:33 AM
shovelhd's Avatar
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2006 Steel Blue / Gray RTL
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Western MA
Posts: 5,447
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Gary, you left a lot to the imagination, so forgive me if these are basic questions.

1) What did you replace? It looks like pads and rotors only.
2) Were the rotors a drop-in replacement or did you have to modify anything?
3) What was the air wrench needed for?
4) Did you use any compound on the back of the pads?
5) Were you able to keep the brake lines connected or did you have to disconnect them and bleed them?
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Gary Flint on gas mileage: "A Honda engine is not fully broke in until it has between 7-10,000 miles on the vehicle (depending on the manufacturing tolerances). Do not worry about achieving your optimum fuel economy until you get the vehicle broke-in according to the recommended guidelines described in your owners manual."
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:55 AM
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2006 Redrock Pearl / Beige RTL
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cincinnati OH
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Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by shovelhd View Post
3) What was the air wrench needed for?
I know where you are going with this question.

Judging by the size of the socket, i would say that he used it to take off the brake frame. The other socket on the tray is most likely used to take off the wheels. (I use an impact to take off my wheels as well. Putting them back on is done by using the lowest possible torque and then using a torque wrench.)

Using an impact to put in the indicator bolts for the pads is a big no no.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:24 AM
5S Dude's Avatar
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2006 Nighthawk Black / Beige RTS
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Orange County Calif.
Posts: 3,903
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Hey G2, can these EBC units be acquired online and if so, can you provide a website link? What did you upgrade to regarding the different brake fluid? Thanks a ton. Great photos too.

Nevermind, found um.
EBC Brakes - Brake Pads | Brake Rotors | Cross Drilled Rotors | Slotted Rotors | Motorcycle Brakes
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Last edited by 5S Dude : 05-04-2008 at 09:28 AM.
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Old 05-04-2008, 09:32 AM
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2006 Billet Silver / Gray RTL
 
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Location: Arlington, Texas 76002
Posts: 3,167
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

If 5S's link does not work for you, try this one:

http://ebcbrakes.iwebcat.com/_Member...PFlag=&hdnWN=1&
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Old 05-04-2008, 03:52 PM
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2006 Nighthawk Black / Beige RTL
 
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Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 91
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by shovelhd View Post
Gary, you left a lot to the imagination, so forgive me if these are basic questions.

1) What did you replace? It looks like pads and rotors only.
2) Were the rotors a drop-in replacement or did you have to modify anything?
3) What was the air wrench needed for?
4) Did you use any compound on the back of the pads?
5) Were you able to keep the brake lines connected or did you have to disconnect them and bleed them?

Shovlhd-

I just wanted to get the pictures posted so everyone could see. I was not intending it to be all inclusive of actual steps and work done. I hope not too much imagination was needed for this

Answers:

1. Rotors and Pads were replaced.
2. No modifications needed.
3. Air tools used to make it easier. Used for all fasteners. Torque wrench used for installation.
4. I used Copper headgasket spray. It's very tacky and doesn't get everywhere like normal silicone based antisqueal goop.
5. See picture. No lines disconnected. I've done thousands of brake jobs and have never removed brake hoses.

My words of wisdom are to remove the rotor attachement screws first. There are 2 phillips per rotor and can get stuck. I had to drill out one set

I think Honda used an on truck resurfacing tool and didn't remove the rotors a couple months ago. The new surface is a bit cruddy and has some chatter marks. Even on the most abused rotors I've not ever sent customers out with rotors that looked like mine. Also, they did not put a "non-directional" finish on the with an abasive disc. This prevents odd sounds from occurring or abnormally wearing the pads. Oh well.

Please be mindful that no matter what I say, or anyone for that matter, can ensure you do the job correctly and safely. If you are unsure, then your Darwinian senses are raising the warning flag. Listen.

If people are interested I'll write up a detailed out line of what I did. I also have pictures of the removal process.
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Thanks,
Gary

06 Ridgeline RTL S/R, Nighthawk Black, now 23K miles, 20" wheels in the garage; EBC Brake Upgrade; Winter Wear: 17" OE wheels and new Yokohama AT/S 275/60's; S/S nerf bars, S/S bull bar, Hella Fog lights, K&N air and oil filter, Amsoil Synthetic oil. Soon: FIAM air horn; Brake Fluid upgrade.


FS: 1999 BMW M3 Dinan 2dr Coupe, 5spd, only 83K miles, Loaded, $$$$ in upgrades, new tires and brakes, 30+ MPG and 275HP! ONLY $15,850
www.autotrader.com zip code: 97426
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2008, 06:45 PM
Member
2006 Steel Blue / Gray RTL
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: CT
Posts: 55
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Those phillip screws are painful. Had to drill/extract all of them when I changed the rotors out on the wife's Pilot. Has to be a better way (why have them at all?) or use a different type of head.
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:36 PM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Just outside Vancouver, BC, Canada
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Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

^^^ impact driver.
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Old 05-04-2008, 07:40 PM
mugen1's Avatar
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2006 RTL
 
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Just outside Vancouver, BC, Canada
Posts: 1,411
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisM View Post
(I use an impact to take off my wheels as well. Putting them back on is done by using the lowest possible torque and then using a torque wrench.)
No torque limiting extension bars? I have a set, but haven't used them yet.

Out of habit, I still hand tighten the nuts and use torque wrench. I need to get with the times and trust the new fangled stuff.
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Last edited by mugen1 : 05-04-2008 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 05-05-2008, 06:09 AM
shovelhd's Avatar
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2006 Steel Blue / Gray RTL
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Western MA
Posts: 5,447
Re: Pictures of Brake Upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by mugen1 View Post
^^^ impact driver.
+1 + overnight soak with liquid wrench
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Shovelhd media installation thread
Gary Flint on gas mileage: "A Honda engine is not fully broke in until it has between 7-10,000 miles on the vehicle (depending on the manufacturing tolerances). Do not worry about achieving your optimum fuel economy until you get the vehicle broke-in according to the recommended guidelines described in your owners manual."
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