Electric Tailgate Lock Installation [No Pics]

[SixOpRidge]

I installed BasicKoncept's Electric Tailgate Lock ($68) on Monday, and here is my story. I don't have any pictures (sorry), but you can follow along using the online guide.

DO NOT ATTEMPT TO FOLLOW MY LEAD--GUARANTEED BREAKAGE WILL OCCUR

Workspace: Dim lighting, garage door closed, pole in center of garage limiting rear door opening
Weather: Low 50's
Gear: Working in shorts, socks, sandals and a pullover
Tools: Everything required except a T50 torex tip (used a T45 instead)

I began the electric tailgate lock (ETL) after replacing the OEM fog lights with a pair of XD5 Xenon Super Whites. I figured an easy installation would boost my confidence before tackling the big one. I read over the instructions thoroughly and checked the contents of the ETL--would hate to start something and find out later that parts were missing. But that wasn't the case...everything was there, including a piece of candy. Yum!

I started with removing my Access Roll-Up Cover--the cover, forward and left rails had to be removed. Set the parts down on a blanky in the garage to protect them from getting scratched up.

I removed 4 screws from the tailgate trim then tried to pry it off without breaking any of the 18 clips holding it in place. The left side was separating without any issues, but the right just wouldn't budge. I don't know how long I had worked at it before giving up, but it seemed to go on for hours (not really). I broke one of the 18 clips and managed to get one side disconnected (inner tailgate). This left me with just enough room to remove the 3 hidden bolts under the tailgate trim without taking a chance on breaking anymore clips. A total of 7 bolts on the tailgate were removed, then the cover taken off. Two additional bolts on the tailgate latch were removed, then the ETL actuator was put it place and bolts fastened. There isn't much room under the actuator to tighten up one of the bolts with a ratchet set, so a little wrench did the trick.

Next, the left side of the bed had to be removed. I removed the plastic cover on the trim, removed the screw, and then slid the trim towards the rear which removed quite easily. The light in the upper side panel had to be removed next. Just one screw and then gently separate the connector from the light. Separating the upper side panel took a little prying. I heard a snap and pieces of plastic rattle down the inner wall of the truck. A few vulgarities later...the result was another broken clip and probably the 2-hold points on the 3rd brake light piece. I think I was starting to rush through the process and my inattention to detail led to the minor damage.

I removed the bed hooks from the left side; upper & lower front, upper & lower rear. I didn't have a T50 torex tip so I managed to remove the bolts with a T45 torex tip. Now I needed to remove the front bed part which has the access cover forward rail attached. A total of 6 bolts were removed and the front part slid outward--left side first. Of course I could hear metal scraping against metal when I removed the front panel. A few more vulgarities later...a white scar on the left side panel. I really didn't get too upset because we know that it doesn't take much to scratch up the bed---the wind causes scratches...that's why I have a cover I'm a thinker! I removed the rest of the bolts on the left bed panel, separated it from the truck slightly so that I can disconnect the light on the side bed panel, then set the parts down on the blanky.

Moving into the truck now. Place the rear seats in their upright and locked position. I had to remove the under-seat storage system first then started pulling off the bolt covers. I removed the 2 top covers above the seat then removed 8 bolts holding the seats in place. Once they have been removed, squat into the cab and lift the seat up off of the hooks where the 2 top covers are located, and lean the seat forward. This will give you room to work on the left rear pillar cover. Remove the left front and rear kick plates. Remember to remove the gas lever handle first before you rip out the front kick plate. When you remove the rear pillar cover, you need to remove the bolt connecting the seatbelt to the floor. Once removed, you can begin removing the rear pillar cover from the bottom upward. A small plastic screw behind the seatbelt (top of rear pillar cover) has to be removed first which is a pain in the butt. It took some patience to remove it without causing any damage to the upper rear pillar cover, but once that was out of the way I moved on to the center pillar cover. Again, remove the seatbelt bolt before you pull off the cover.

Back to the tailgate. I attached all of the tie downs (adhesive base) as shown in the installation guide and zip tied the wiring as I went along. Make sure the section of the wire with the protective sleeve is located near the hinge of the tailgate. Also, open the tailgate in both directions (side & down) so that you can verify that there's enough slack in the wiring--wouldn't want to shred the wires. Run the wires along the left side of the bed. When you reach the front of the bed, take a screwdriver and poke a hole through the black plug. Run the wires through the hole into the cab. Pull the wires through the cab and run them down the side of the floor board and through the white clips. They are there to hold wires/cables so take advantage of them.

The rear door actuator harness is located at the base of the center pillar. You have to pull the harness out of the hole and remove a couple of inches of the black protective covering as well as electrical tape. Find the 2 wires; yellow with silver dots & yellow with black lines. Attach the two wire taps provided. Take the wires you routed through the floor board and cut to size. Crimp the plugs at the end of the wires and connect them to the taps. Once all is secure, wrap everything up with electrical tape. Go back to the tailgate and connect the wires to the actuator. Use your keys to unlock the vehicle and observe the ETL actuator position. The actuator arm should be in the inner most position (not extended).
UNLOCK Position = Not Extended,
LOCK Position = Extended
If it's in the opposite position, in my case it was, disconnect the wires and reverse them. Test out the lock once again. If everything looks good, reassemble your truck and have an adult beverage of your choice!

Overall, I spent approximately 5.5 hours on the installation. I probably should have attempted this with a friend to speed things up, but you live and learn. I broke a couple of clips, but nothing has fallen off my truck yet (knock on wood). I'm a happy camper now that it's done. I now have a secure bed thanks to BasicKoncepts! THE END

Words of advice from a novice:
- If installing the ETL alone, make sure you have the proper working environment (space, lighting, tools)
- Be patient; don't force anything that doesn't want to budge--it'll break, trust me!
- Read and re-read the installation guide.
- Work with a buddy. Install it on his/her truck first. Take mental notes of what broke and try not to repeat it.
- Have your favorite adult beverage(s) on ice, but don't hit it until the project is done!

-SixOpRidge

[Perkolater]

THANKS!

I am not sure if your instructions make me more or less afraid, but thank you very much for the details!

[fourasians]

I installed the electric tailgate kit from Basic Koncepts, and thought the kit was wonderful. It took me about 1 hour, start to finish. The bracket that the solenoid is mounted on is kind of flimsy, but that really doesn't affect the function.

The kit does have one flaw that I found. After you use the kit for a while, you may find that it doesn't fully unlock the latch anymore. It will feel like its stuck in between locked and unlocked. Or it will unlock the latch, you open it once and it falls back into the locked position.

This is because the linkage from the solenoid to the sheet metal latch (part of the kit), gets jammed. In other words, the angle of the linkage is such that, when the kit is locked or unlocked, the linkage jams inside the mechanism.

I fixed mine by simply twisting the sheet metal a bit. You could get fancy and cut a groove in the linkage and stick an E-clip on so the linkage won't get stuck again too. Either way, it still works great.

FA

[rms56]

A pic of your solution would be worth over a thousand words

[Dnick]

Originally Posted by fourasians

You could get fancy and cut a groove in the linkage and stick an E-clip on so the linkage won't get stuck again too. Either way, it still works great.

FA

Can you clarify - "E-clip" ?? As long as you're going to provide lessons learned, I'd like to apply them. I'm guessing it's too late for pics, but maybe you could scan a sketch? Your help greatly appreciated.

[kameleon]

who ,where is BasicKoncept???
i tried search on yahoo and google, and cant find nothing at all?!??!?!
website or phone number????
i just purchased the retrax cover and would like to install the tailgate lock!!!!!

[SixOpRidge]

Here ya go!

http://www.basickoncepts.com/

[ProHonda]

Thanks !!

Nice write up, I could not do any better.

Wish Honda offered this as a option.

[moumou48]

Thanks SixOpRidge.

I’m thinking to purchase the bed cover from BasicConcepts and order the lock at the same time.

Your information will definitely help great deal.

[SixOpRidge]

Originally Posted by ProHonda

Thanks !!

Nice write up, I could not do any better.

Wish Honda offered this as a option.

You're welcome and thanks! I actually wish this was a standard feature.

Originally Posted by moumou48

Thanks SixOpRidge.

I’m thinking to purchase the bed cover from BasicConcepts and order the lock at the same time.

Your information will definitely help great deal.

You are also welcome and I'm glad my post will help Good luck with the install whenever you get the lock!