Pentax K1000 Problem

[KE5TCG]

I'm using my dad's old Pentax K1000 and am having trouble that some of you may recognize. Help?

Using the light meter in bright sunlight (no flash fill) with 100 speed film overexposes the image about 2 stops.

So, I tried some indoor shots (no flash) with 200 speed film and tried a few shots with the the meter set two stops faster, i.e. for 400 and 800. I'm trying to "trick" the meter. But, they are woefully underexposed.

Next I tried the same thing in bright sunlight, (no flash fill) 200 speed film with the camera meter set at 400 and 800. Well, the "800" set of images came out OK.

I did try changing the 1.5 V battery, with a "new" one still in the package at the bottom of the camera bag, but there is no guarantee that the new battery is good.

It's been a long time since I used a totally manual camera (during Halley's Comet) so maybe I am forgetting something important.

Any ideas?

[kanji]

Is this a digital camera or film camera?

If its digital, you can reset all settings back to factory through the menu. You may have to buy a new battery than the one found inside the bag.

[Divotfixer]

Originally Posted by kanji

Is this a digital camera or film camera?

Someone asking this question makes me feel *really* old.

[schwejo]

Hi,

I used to have one of these and the next model the MX. They do use a focal plane shutter which consists of one vertical curtain followed by a second vertical curtain. The time between the first and second curtain is what determines the shutter speed. Sounds like the second curtain is lagging the first by more that it should, which results on an over exposure. Just a guess, but considering the age of these cameras it’s quite a reasonable one, considering that any lubrication would be in poor shape. My uncle used to have a camera shop and I do recall that these cameras were pretty rugged and easy to maintain. When we would go visit he would check the shutter speed on my camera. I recall watching and it was a pretty simple operation. He had a device that hooked up to a small oscilloscope. It wasn’t anything more than a few components on a pc board and maybe in IR LED on the back of the shutter. I guess my only point is that it’s easy for a repair shop to check if you can find one. Good luck!

[Cajun Country Ridgeline]

I gave my wife my K1000 pentax several years ago and when she tried to use it had the same problem.
Replace the batteries in the bottom of the camera and your light meter should perform correctly.

Good Luck!!!

[kanji]

Originally Posted by Divotfixer

Someone asking this question makes me feel *really* old.

I should have just google'ed it and see

[oarnold]

Originally Posted by BBNP Fan

Using the light meter in bright sunlight (no flash fill) with 100 speed film overexposes the image about 2 stops.

So, I tried some indoor shots (no flash) with 200 speed film and tried a few shots with the the meter set two stops faster, i.e. for 400 and 800. I'm trying to "trick" the meter. But, they are woefully underexposed.

Next I tried the same thing in bright sunlight, (no flash fill) 200 speed film with the camera meter set at 400 and 800. Well, the "800" set of images came out OK.

Are you just changing the film speed setting? I assume you are changing the shutter speed and aperture too?

To make sure the camera shutter is functioning properly, you can implement the "sunny 16 rule." To do this, set the lens aperture to f/16, put a roll of film in and shoot a sunlit scene in mid-day, full sun. A correctly exposed image should result when you choose a shutter speed that is, or is next to, the inverse of the film speed. For example, if you choose ASA (or ISO) 200 speed film, you will get a good exposure at 1/250 second and f/16. Also for example, if you choose ASA 400 speed film, you should get a good exposure at 1/500 second and f/16. If the exposures are significantly too dark, there is a problem with either the meter or the shutter.

I notice your attempts to fool the meter are going in the wrong direction. ASA 400 and 800 are more sensitive to light, and therefore the camera meter would tell you to lessen the exposure, which you did, which explains why the pictures were increasingly too dark. You should have tried to trick it in the other direction.

You can see the results of changing the film speed dial by watching the meter as you change it. Good luck.

[oarnold]

I see. I mis-read your first "overexposes" as "underexposes". My bad. Sounds like your meter is two stops off. So, tricking the meter works outdoors, but not indoors. Is that your question?

As far as the moon shots, remember the sunny 16 rule applies on the moon as well.

[oarnold]

Originally Posted by BBNP Fan

...I'm trying to get ready for the lunar eclipse this Wednesday with a 2000 mm mak-cass lens, so I'll probably do a lot of bracketed exposures and burn a lot of film. I've done a few moon photos before at f/4.5 1000 mm and they were tricky to get right anyway.

You have a 1000mm f/4.5? Is that a hand-made reflector scope?

[KE5TCG]

Originally Posted by oarnold

You have a 1000mm f/4.5? Is that a hand-made reflector scope?

It's (sorry f/4.5 1150 mm) a Newtonian reflector on a Dobsonian mount and was made by Coulter Optical. I bought it in 1984 in prep for Comet Halley. The primary is made to 1/8 wave tolerance. It's not made necessarily for photography but with a "T" ring adapter and mount you can get some good shots of terrestrial subjects or celestial objects not requiring long exposures. With the right filter on the objective you can get good images of sunspots also.