New Trailer/Towing Report

[nolaridge]

Hello!

I mostly used premium fuel and it seemed to help mileage a bit, but in the heavy wind my mileage really suffered no matter what. When I was in mountainous areas and high altitude I always used premium, although in some of the remote areas only regular was available (and I was glad to have it!).

Regarding the WD hitch, I've read many of the discussions and while I don't disagree with the technical reasons for not using it, in "on-road" terms it just feels better, especially when the road is rough -- the truck just doesn't bounce as much and less bounce feels like more control.

[MikeT]

Originally Posted by nolaridge

Hello!

I mostly used premium fuel and it seemed to help mileage a bit, but in the heavy wind my mileage really suffered no matter what. When I was in mountainous areas and high altitude I always used premium, although in some of the remote areas only regular was available (and I was glad to have it!).

Regarding the WD hitch, I've read many of the discussions and while I don't disagree with the technical reasons for not using it, in "on-road" terms it just feels better, especially when the road is rough -- the truck just doesn't bounce as much and less bounce feels like more control.

If y'all insist on using the Weight Distributing Hitches, make sure you weigh the trailors hitch weight (On absolutely level ground) and make sure it is at least 10-12% of the total trailor weight.

According to my local RV sales lot manager and the designer of the Ridgeline, the WD hitches will bite you unless you know what the hitch weight is and that it is 10-12% of the total trailor weight.

[wrenrj1]

Originally Posted by MikeT

If y'all insist on using the Weight Distributing Hitches, make sure you weigh the trailors hitch weight (On absolutely level ground) and make sure it is at least 10-12% of the total trailor weight.

According to my local RV sales lot manager and the designer of the Ridgeline, the WD hitches will bite you unless you know what the hitch weight is and that it is 10-12% of the total trailor weight.

Good point. I've learned alot about them in the past couple weeks. WD hitches, as they are named distribute some of the trailer weight to the truck. A person in my shop was towing a 6400 lb. emergency response trailer with a Suburban 1500 c/k rated at 6000lbs. The WD hitch redistributed 950 lbs to the rear axle of the Suburban from the trailer making the trailer appear lighter when weighed by axle. What this did was put the rear axle maximum weight of the Suburban 220 lbs. over weight.

Additionally, while not so noticeable, the front axle weight decreased adding the potential of steering control issues if the trailer started rocking.

My point is, is it's a good idea to get the RL weighed, then the RL+trailer weighed and look at your axle weights to make sure you are not exceeding them as well.

My second point is, don't assume a techy guy who knows communications also knows physics, or can read an owners manual or side of a door.

[Webwader]

WD hitches, as they are named distribute some of the trailer weight to the truck. A person in my shop was towing a 6400 lb. emergency response trailer with a Suburban 1500 c/k rated at 6000lbs. The WD hitch redistributed 950 lbs to the rear axle of the Suburban from the trailer making the trailer appear lighter when weighed by axle. What this did was put the rear axle maximum weight of the Suburban 220 lbs. over weight.

wrenrj1, something was very wrong with that setup. The purpose of a WDH is to take some of the load off the TV rear axle and redistribute it to the trailer axle and the front axle of the TV, exactly opposite of what you describe. The usual pitfalls of WDHs are than you can easily overload the trailer axle, or take too much weight off the rear axle, which can have disastrous effects on the TV's handling. It's for this reason that Honda doesn't recommend a WDH be used. It would probably also have a negative effect on the VSA being able to do its job.
I am not a fan of WDHs.

[Ridgeline 4MX]

Hi again - we have had several successful trips in our Hobbi, hauling with a setup put together with the assistance of the wonderful members of this forum (you know who you are!). On the most recent trip, though, we experienced our first significant crosswinds, sooooo.... I'm wondering what you folks on here are doing with reference to sway control. We are NOT hauling with a WDH, nor do we have any desire to do so.

Also, I'm wondering if anyone has experienced this phenomenon... had to haul back with 1/3 tank of fresh water last weekend when fully loaded with the bikes. Without the water, we probably are running in the neighborhood of 4900-4950 lbs of weight, and the tank is 50 gals, so at 1/3 tank reading on the gauge I'm guessing we had an extra 50 to 110 lbs. We were very worried about hauling at over capacity, but remarkably the ride was incredibly more smooth. Haven't got access to a truck scale close by. Anyone else had this happen?

Thanks, as always!

Julie

[RedLdr1]

Julie,

As far as adding sway control, without a WDH, any hitch dealer should be able to weld a tab on to your existing hitch setup for the sway control. I had this done on a Class Two setup when I was towing pop-ups with cars...

Go about half way down this page on the link below and you'll find the Model 3400 Friction Sway Control and the weld on tab for your hitch ball mount Part Number 3442.

http://www.drawtite-hitches.com/WD/d..._controls.html

[mrlizzzard]

Use medium or premium fuel.Towing with a V8 is more economical than towing with a V6,My snowmobile open all alluminum trailer with my ATV got 9.5 at highway speeds.Not towing gives a V6 the edge in MPG's.