Multiple Towing Questions

[bobpres]

I have some questions regarding towing:

1. My father is considering giving me a 1988 22' Citation travel trailer. I looked at the spec plate and it shows the GAWR for each axle (there are 2) is 1375 pounds. The GVWR is rated as 5500 pounds. If I understand correctly, the GAWR is the max weight the axle can carry (trailer, plus loaded items) and the GVWR is the max weight of the whole trailer (trailer, plus loaded items). If this is correct, how can that work? The total of the two GAWR's added together is only 1/2 the GVWR. What am I missing?

2. My father tows this trailer using a WDH and anti-sway bars. I've heard that Honda recommends against using a WDH for towing, but many ROC'ers still do. Why would Honda say "No" and, legal issues aside, is there really a problem using one?

3. My dad would have to find his owner's manual for the trailer, but is guesstimating the dry weight to be around 3000lbs and tongue weight around 300lbs. Is there a simple way to measure the tongue weight and/or trailer dry weight? I am unsure of the location of the nearest public scale. Also, would most scales allow the time involved to disconnect and weigh only the trailer? How else would I get the dry weight?

Thanks in advance for indulging my ignorance.

[PerryLynch]

A very easy source for public scales is your nearest truck stop. Most of them have scales available for their drivers, and if you were to visit one when they aren't busy, they probably won't have any objections to your weighing it twice.

Just let them know you need to get the weights to make sure you're within safety limits, and they'll understand.

[Kodiak]

I believe your trailer specs can be found at the following web site:

http://hrosecure.com/firstclass/stor...ationttfp.html

According to this site, the “dry weight” as manufactured is 4060 pounds, The GAWR of the trailer is 5000 pounds which sounds more believable than the number you quoted. The GVWR of the trailer is 5500 pounds which includes the hitch weight they are referencing (540pounds) combined with the axle weight rating.

A load distributing hitch places a huge movement arm on the rear of the vehicle to remove weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle and transfer it to the front of the vehicle. The key to towing stability is to properly set up the tongue weight and not use the “sag” of the tow vehicle as a judgment factor. A load distributing hitch is very easy to miss-set and the loads can vary dramatically depending on the terrain and crown of the road surface. That is why Honda is emphatic about advising against them. This recommendation is for your own safety and potentially those around you.

It is best to set the tongue weight of the trailer using a scale. The procedure is outlined on page 212 in your owners manual. Avoid towing any unnecessary weight (don’t tow water – empty the black and grey water tanks before you start. Fill the fresh water tank at your destination). Your tongue weight for a 5000 pound trailer should be approximately 12% (600 pounds) to achieve proper stability when towing.

In the absence of a scale, you can use the following procedure to estimate the tongue load: The height of the rear wheel opening to the ground (without any load) should be 867mm (33.9 inches). To tow a 5000 pound trailer, you need 600 pounds of tongue load. This will result in 36mm (1.4in) of sag measured at the rear wheel opening. If you re-check the height to ground with the trailer attached to the vehicle in the loaded condition, you should have 831mm (32.7in) to ground measured at the wheel opening. This assumes the truck has a full tank of fuel and there is no additional load in the vehicle (and it is equipped with the stick tires). You also need to remember to consider the additional vehicle load when your passengers and luggage are loaded. You should never exceed the Rear Gross Axle Rating or GCWR of the vehicle (trailer + occupants and cargo).

After you achieved the correct tongue load, you should next achieve a level condition for the loaded trailer. This is determined by observation or using your travel trailers level indicator is equipped. Measure the height of the hitch draw bar to ground with the initial set-up. Next use the trailer tongue “jack” on the trailer to get the trailer level (assuming it is a tandem axle trailer). Re-check the height to ground at your hitch draw bar. The difference is the “lift” you need for the correct draw bar. Compare this “lift” with the draw bar you used to take the measurements, and that will guide you with the correct draw bar specification to result in level tandem axle trailer.

After you have completed this set-up, you also may want to re-adjust your head lights if you are going to be driving at night. Note the original setting on the headlamp aim adjustment screw (best to mark it or photograph it for future reference). Set the vehicle approximately 20 feet away from a garage wall or garage door. Measure the height to ground or mark the height to ground of the base head lamp aim condition. With the trailer attached to the vehicle, readjust the headlamps to achieve similar height “hot-spot” in tow condition. The rest of the world will appreciate your efforts. After you have return from your trip, return the headlamp aim to the original setting using your reference mark.

Most people feel a Weight Distributing Hitch will improve the stability of the towing set-up. Usually, these hitches include some type of sway control and are also effective in leveling the trailer. These are both desirable objectives. However, by using these criteria (appearance), you can achieve a disastrous set-up from a stability stand-point by removing too much weight from the rear axle of the tow vehicle. With your safety in mind, this is why Honda strongly discourages the use of Weight Distributing Hitches.

A sway only control device can be very desirable to dampen the forces experienced when passing another trailer, semi or bus (Bernoulli’s venturi principle – the laws of physics are always enforced in spite of opinions). When passing another large vehicle, there is a vacuum developed between the adjacent bodies. This literally pulls you towards that large semi you are passing. Once you crested the front of the vehicle. A large pressure wake exists at the front of the vehicle you are passing due to the aerodynamic dynamic flow. This now pushes your trailer and tow vehicle away from the passing vehicle which results in the “sway” most people describe. This can be minimized by using the long skinny pedal on the right when passing another vehicle. Do not continue to drive next to them. Accelerate and pass and mind the forces when you are completing this maneuver (this would not be a good time to talk on the cell phone or eat your big mac). You can minimize the affect by drifting away from the passing vehicle to increase the distance between the two flow bodies. This minimizes the forces involved. If you watch most professional semi drivers, they usually perform this dance when they pass each other (as a courtesy and form of self preservation).

The Ridgeline was engineered with the proper RGAWR to achieve the rated towing capacity with occupants and cargo (unlike some of the esteemed “real” truck competitors). You should be aware that a load distributing hitch also completely disables surge brakes on trailers equipped with these devices. The new proposed SAE towing standards will attempt to bring a more honest method to trailer ratings by all manufacturers. Once this is implemented, you will see some dramatic changes in the tow ratings on trucks,

Using a device (such as a load distributing hitch) that is so strongly discouraged by the manufacturer leaves you legally liable in the event of a collision or incident on the road. If you wish to use a load distributing hitch, you may want to increase your liability coverage and ensure that you can cover the uninsured value of your vehicle, trailer, and its contents plus any exposure to others that may be involved in an incident you trigger.

Any vehicle improperly set-up is a disaster when towing. The Ridgeline is one of the most stable tow vehicles on the road due to the independent rear suspension and tire construction. When properly setup, you will enjoy a satisfactory towing experience. You should also be aware; any vehicle towing this class of trailer is under extreme loading condition and will operate at elevated rpm ranges. As a point of reference, the Ridgeline with a 5000 pound trailer has the same 0-60 time as an F150 with the optional 5.3L V8 and towing axle ratio. Not too bad for a mulch hauler with MORE rated payload than the big F150 4 door– huh? (BTW you can enjoy blowing the doors off the F150 unloaded. It usually really pi$$es them off and is one of my favorite forms of entertainment.

I hope this information is useful and will dispel the myriad of misinformation and onions being spewed about.

Happy and Safe Towing!!
K

[3DCadman]

Kodiak,
That was one of the most informative towing posts I have read.
Thank you.

[PeterK]

Wow!!!!
Kodiak's post should be a "sticky" here. Sure wish we could get all the really informative posts like his together somehow to make the commonly asked for info easier to find.
Pete