Roof Rack install

[bongus]

I just finished installing the roof rack. It took about 2 hours. My hacksaw's blade is very dull...I would suggest buying a new blade for your saw before attempting the install. I did accomplish to make one mistake...whether or not it is a big one...only time will tell. I was using a torque wrench to finalize the install and I over torqued one of the screws connected to the roof. So out of 12 possible screws, only 11 are secure on the roof rack. Luckily it did not involve any of the corner screws(8) just one of the center(4) ones. I would rate the install as easy to moderate. Beware of over torquing the screws. Hope this helps. BTW, I checked for noise at 50 mph and bad. I will try the highway tomorrow...that is the true test.

[vertrkr]

Originally Posted by bongus

I just finished installing the roof rack. It took about 2 hours. My hacksaw's blade is very dull...I would suggest buying a new blade for your saw before attempting the install. I did accomplish to make one mistake...whether or not it is a big one...only time will tell. I was using a torque wrench to finalize the install and I over torqued one of the screws connected to the roof. So out of 12 possible screws, only 11 are secure on the roof rack. Luckily it did not involve any of the corner screws(8) just one of the center(4) ones. I would rate the install as easy to moderate. Beware of over torquing the screws. Hope this helps. BTW, I checked for noise at 50 mph and bad. I will try the highway tomorrow...that is the true test.

Ok, had to laugh a little bit at this as using the torque wrench is supposed to prevent stripping threads out, provided you have it dialed in to spec. But I'm not one to judge. My friends call me "OT" which is short for Over Torque as I think I've stripped every thread known to man kind, just not with a torque wrench

As for this situation, if just the screw is stripped, get a replacement. If the receiving end is stripped then there's a variety of solutions. A hardware store will have some sleves you can put in the hole so the screw will bite although it's typically for wood applications, not sure if it would work here. If it was me, I'd probably just mix up some epoxy and plop it in and then put the screw in best you can and call it good. Or you could also fill in the hole and drill and tap it out. Not sure epoxy would be the best for this, talk to an old fart at Ace Hardware, they always know their stuff, avoid the young guys

[H345]

.

What is the weight and size of space for the roof rack ?

How loud is the additional noise created by the air movement ?

With a lockable trunk that is easier to access , I think I could
do without the roof rack and use the dollars for other items .

.

[bongus]

In regards to the roof rack noise, I did not seat one of the moulding properly and that resulted in the noise issue...now it's fixed and sound is minimal . Thanks Vertrkr for the chime in...I think I'm going to call it good; I just hope having the 11 secured screws will suffice versus having 12.

I believe the roof rack is designed to hold a max of 110lbs, obviously the weight has to be evenly distributed. One of the other reasons I went with the roof rack is I think it adds to the look of the truck besides adding function. In today's world many accessories are used primarily for looks versus function.

[ridgeman]

Could you give us a little more 1, 2, 3 on how its done and how much of a job it is?

Also, you mentioned the saw blade - how much cutting and what kind of cutting do you have to do?

Did you really say it's only rated for 100 pounds and how do you know that? I would like to put one on when I get mine but was hoping to actually put a Thule on it and use it. Thanks

[Ridge Man]

If you are still concered about your one problem screw. You could try Loctite on it. Blue is medium strenght and Red is Max strength (If you ever want to take apart for some reason Red would make it very difficult) It's not cheap but a great product. Most Hardware stores or Auto Suppliers should have it.
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm

Originally Posted by bongus

I just finished installing the roof rack. It took about 2 hours. My hacksaw's blade is very dull...I would suggest buying a new blade for your saw before attempting the install. I did accomplish to make one mistake...whether or not it is a big one...only time will tell. I was using a torque wrench to finalize the install and I over torqued one of the screws connected to the roof. So out of 12 possible screws, only 11 are secure on the roof rack. Luckily it did not involve any of the corner screws(8) just one of the center(4) ones. I would rate the install as easy to moderate. Beware of over torquing the screws. Hope this helps. BTW, I checked for noise at 50 mph and bad. I will try the highway tomorrow...that is the true test.

[bongus]

Originally Posted by ridgeman

Could you give us a little more 1, 2, 3 on how its done and how much of a job it is?

Also, you mentioned the saw blade - how much cutting and what kind of cutting do you have to do?

Did you really say it's only rated for 100 pounds and how do you know that? I would like to put one on when I get mine but was hoping to actually put a Thule on it and use it. Thanks

If you go to the HandA site, you can view the installation process for the roof rack. The documentation is great. I got the 100 lb. information from the actual rack...there are stickers on it with weight limitations. There are a total of 10 cuts that need to be made and they are straight cuts.

[Keoni]

I've used JB Weld epoxy in a stripped nut...mix the two parts, use a toothpick or similar and smear it heavily over the stripped area. Take some WD-40, or better yet, some TriFlow and lube the bolt. Screw in loosely (do NOT tighten yet!) and let the epoxy set for at least a few hours. Overnight is best (park in sun if possible to heat the area, which accelerates the curing). Then tighten...done!

Aloha,
Keoni

[sfoster]

If you download the instructions as suggested in an earlier post

http://www.handa-accessories.com/Ridgeline/roofrack.pdf

and follow them step by step, it's very easy. The first thing you want be careful with is prying up the trim on the roof. Just use some plastic item to do the prying. You only have to pry high enough to get your fingers on the end. Then just pull forward and the strip will slide forward and off. Then you use needlenose pliers to pull off the plastic clips.

When you are measuring the trim strip for cutting, make sure you do the measuring twice. Take your time. Get a brand new hacksaw blade. The rest is really easy. Just don't overtorque the nuts! I almost did the same thing. Luckily I noticed that I had the torque set incorrectly and backed off the nut without stripping the thread.

This truck is very very quiet, to any additional noise due to added equipment will be noticed. Those sloping rear pillars were added to reduce wind noise associated with pickups and they are very effective. With the roof rack at highway speeds, there is some noise but it's not excessive. Also, you can barely see a roof rail from inside the cab through the sun roof.

[bongus]

Originally Posted by sfoster

If you download the instructions as suggested in an earlier post

http://www.handa-accessories.com/Ridgeline/roofrack.pdf

and follow them step by step, it's very easy. The first thing you want be careful with is prying up the trim on the roof. Just use some plastic item to do the prying. You only have to pry high enough to get your fingers on the end. Then just pull forward and the strip will slide forward and off. Then you use needlenose pliers to pull off the plastic clips.

When you are measuring the trim strip for cutting, make sure you do the measuring twice. Take your time. Get a brand new hacksaw blade. The rest is really easy. Just don't overtorque the nuts! I almost did the same thing. Luckily I noticed that I had the torque set incorrectly and backed off the nut without stripping the thread.

This truck is very very quiet, to any additional noise due to added equipment will be noticed. Those sloping rear pillars were added to reduce wind noise associated with pickups and they are very effective. With the roof rack at highway speeds, there is some noise but it's not excessive. Also, you can barely see a roof rail from inside the cab through the sun roof.

You explained it better than I could and you are 100% correct.