Yakima 4 Bike and BAKFlip

[BillB]

Thanks for the pics, this is what I want to do too. I have a few questions that I figured I'd post here since others might have the same questions.

1) You drilled next to the clip hole at least one plush nut. Was there no way to move the track maybe an inch forward/back and drill all the holes not next to a clip? (Then the track wouldn't be on the inside edge of the bed rail, although it looks like you slightly angled it so that the back part is not on the inside edge)
2) This should be the first question. Did you try removing the side panels to see if you can get a bolt underneath the bed rail? I've never removed them, so I have no idea.
3) The instructions say to seal the holes with enamel base paint. Is that Honda touch-up paint, or something else you bought?
4) Any specific silicone sealant you used?
5) Did you drill and install every hole, or only some of them?

Edit: One more question:
6) The tracks are made to be flush-mounted on the roof of a vehicle on the plush nuts. But in this installation, you're adding the bed rails in between the tracks and the nuts. Did you have to get longer screws? Is the stability good?
Thanks!

1. Track is as far forward as it can go and still have the trim end caps fit and lay on the RL plastic top caps. Hole layed out with a keen eye towards not going into any clip holes - this was the hardest part of the job.
2. Side panels of the truck itself (not the bed panels, which come out easily) are completely sealed and you cannot access under the top rails. Real pain in the A**.
3. I used the Honda touch up paint that I always have the salesperson throw in when I get a new vehicle. Any rust proofing paint will do as you cannot see it anyway under the rails.
4. I used silicon wherever waterproofing was needed, like in the plush nut holes before screwing in the attachment bolt.
5. Every hole was custom drilled to accomodate the plush nut receptor. They are very specific size holes to hold the receptor.
6. Very good question and one I had to deal with when I first spoke to Yakima about the idea. The plush nut bolts are not long enough to go through the plastic and also the metal, so I ordered the non-plush nut bolt kit from Yakima, the bolts that are used when you use a nut under the rail and these bolts are a bit longer and the exact size of the plush nut bolts in thread and diameter.

[BillB]

Could you tell me how to remove the top plastic track, the one of the ridgeline ?

Why do you put the blue tape is it just to align all the hole of the track or for any other reason ?

Thanks

The top caps have a small set screw at the back towards the tailgate and hiding under a small plastic rectangular cap. Use a small screwdriver to pry this plastic cap off then take out the set screw. Then slide the whole plastic rail forward about an inch and lift off. The sliding part is the secret and you will see why when you see how the metal hooks have an L shape.

[BillB]

I was thinking of doing the same type of install.

Was wondering if you thought of rasiing the rack so that the bakflip could be opened while the bikes are on the rack? I also use a Thule car top carrier and would have that on one half of the rack and one or two bikes on the other part.

Did you look at any other ways to make this work?

Rails would have to be raised way too much to make the BAKflip work. As it is, the bikes sit quite a bit higher than the roof line. I designed this so the entire rack comes off in one piece and the rails stay on the truck. I just hang the rack on the garage wall when not in use. It weighs about 75 pounds and is a bit unwieldy to take off the truck by myself, but that is why I have a wife.

[roakey]

Could you give me a measurement from the top of your cover to the bottom of the tubular cross rail? I have a Retrax and it looks like the latch, when flipped up, will clear the rails, but I want to be sure...

Roak

[BillB]

Could you give me a measurement from the top of your cover to the bottom of the tubular cross rail? I have a Retrax and it looks like the latch, when flipped up, will clear the rails, but I want to be sure...

There is no more than a 6 inch clearance between cover top and tubular bottom. Basically 2 inches from BakFlip to to top of bed rail caps and another 4 inches or so for the height of Yakima Risers.

[infinity38s45]

i'm working on my truck to have a bike rack on top of bed cover if this will work i will post picture so that every body can do it to , if will work...

[PatP]

Bill -

Did I miss it somewhere in this thread about the length of the track you used?

Was it 42, 54 or 60"?

Thanks,

Pat

[BillB]

Did I miss it somewhere in this thread about the length of the track you used?

Was it 42, 54 or 60"?

Pretty sure it was the 60" rails. They stretch almost the entire length of the plastic rail tops. The only problem I had with the purchase was that the 60" rails did not come with the plush nut kit as this type of install option was only designed by Yakima for the shorter rails so they could be used on the tops of cars that would not normally be the 60" length. I had to pay the Yakima dealer a little extra so they would sell me the plush nut kit as an add on to my bill. It was a bit of a job to do this install and after about a year of having it on my truck, I have forgotten the hoops I had to jump through to get it the way I wanted it to be, but now I have mostly forgotten the pain in the a** and really enjoy the flexibility of use I have.

[dobaellatwo]

I just finish installing the rails and it when really good. The only hard thing, is to figure out where to put the plush nut (holes). For the rails, I used the Yakima 42 ". Here's the tag that was on the box of the rail.http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/f...d=11771626 17

I don't know why, but the rail I brought seem to be a little bit longer then the one that we can see on the post of BillB. I'll take some picture of the rail that I install.

[Sniper]

BillB,

I finally got around to installing the Yakima system on my Ridgeline - man is it nice!

You were right - biggest issue is making sure all lines up, measure twice, drill once.

Biggest issue at first was that I tried to use 58" load bars - too short - need 66".

I did not have a problem with plusnuts - maybe because I used Thule rails (Same thing essentially, a little cheaper) and their tool may have been better.

Mounting over the plastic caps is the way to go.

System is super secure, flexible, and looks like it came from the factory!

Anyone thinking about an over bed rack system should consider BillB's system.

It is a little pricey, but is very very good!

Gary