I know I have between 66500 and 67000 miles on my 07 and some of you will be questioning me doing this now but on a severe service life schedule the plugs, timing belt, and check of the water pump should be done at 60000 miles. I think I read that right.
On my last couple of GM vehicles I was told to use a tool that helped me remove the plug boots without damage as I kept breaking the plug wires right near the boots.
Is there such a tool for the Honda vehicles? Or is there any trick to getting the boots off without damage? Or should I just replace the wires now while I am in there? Do you use the anti sieze compounds on your plugs?
There are no plug wires, its coil packs. You take out a allen bolt and pull the coil pack with the spark plug attachment out in one pull up. If you look under the hood you can see 3 black boxes and the allen bolts i am talking about. There are 3 identical ones on the back side of the engine. Pull the engine cover off and replace the plugs. Its very simple, buy you will need a long extension on the socket since honda puts spark plugs deep in the heads. Because they are coil packs you have no need to replace them for a long long time. I dont use anti seeze, but some do. Good luck!
Here is a pic. Look just beside my oil cap and under the 3 turn tabs on the engine cover. You will see the front 3 coil pack boxes that i am talking about
FYI, even on the severe maintenance schedule the service schedule for the spark plugs and timing belt both remain at 105,000 miles. No change from the normal service schedule.
I've only seen about a dozen sets of plugs out of Honda 3.5 liter engines changed at the 100k - 105k mile range. Virtually all of them were in excellent condition except for one bank on one engine that had an obvious mechanical problem. The factory plugs are iridium and if I hadn't seen them myself I would never have believed it.
In other words I don't think you'll hurt anything by changing them sooner than recommended, but I don't think you'll gain anything either.
I would change them at the same time the timing belt is changed out at 105k miles. Change the water pump, idler and tension pulleys, serpentine belt, thermostat and hoses. You'll be good to go for another 105k miles.
Replace spark plugs
Replace timing belt and inspect water pump
If you drive regularly in very high temperatures (over 110°F,
43°C), in very low temperatures (under-20°F, -29°C), or towing a
trailer, replace every 60,000 mile (U.S.)/100,000 km (Canada
Inspect valve clearance
there are some posting on which brand to use bosch fusion, ngk laser irridium, pulstar be1...least to most expensive, respectively.
i found a set (6 plugs sold in 3 packages) of pulstar for 75 at autozone. not sure why they are so inexpensive (comparatively)...perhaps they mistakenly label 24.99 for one plug, but each package comes with 2. every where else its 49.99 for 2 plugs.
i leaned toward using ngk laser irridium (13.99 each) until i found the pulstar deal.
they will be installed in my 06 rt with 100k on a new second set of tires. thanks for the clues on where the other 3 plugs are located.
I know this is an older thread...but I do have a question about replacing the spark plugs...which ones do you guys recommend and/or which ones have you put in your RL's?
I recently inquired at a couple local shops how much it would be to replace the spark plugs in my RL. Prices range from $155 to $200. Looks as if they want to charge anywhere from $15 to $20 per plug and then labor to install. Seemed a bit steep to me.
I thought I could save myself a few $ and try and do it myself. Looking around at prices of plugs, looks like a person can pick them up for $10 or less, plus shipping. Looking on the RockAuto.com website, the brands/prices stack up like this:
Is this a case of "you get what you pay for" or would it be OK to go with a lower/mid-price plug like the Bosch or Champion?
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I am thinking about ordering these tomorrow, so I get them by the weekend, so I can change the plugs out then...probably on Sunday.
Thanks. I have that thread bookmarked for future reference.
In that thread, looks as if he replaced the OEM's with the NGK IZFR5K-11 plugs (Laser Iridiums). Is that the way I should go...ya think? I was kinda leaning towards the NGK's already (I can get 6 from RockAuto.com for $62.02 shipped to my front door).
Edit: And yes...no anti-seize. Any other type of lubricant recommended for the plugs? Last time I did this, years ago on my '86 Olds Cutlass, I just put a drop or two of motor oil on them, wiped off the excess, and installed.
Stick with the OEM plugs. Bet you can find them on Amazon for around $10/ea shipped. With a couple of 3 inch extensions and a spark plug tool, you should be good to go in short order... and save yourself quite a bit of cash.
I know the FSM says to use A-S. But as advised above, do not use A-S.
NGK bulletin:
I wished things weren't so expensive here in Canada.....I just did the plugs on mine this past weekend and paid $100 for 6 plugs. Could have saved $20 if I would have waited to order them from Rock Auto.
Here's a picture of the old plugs....Think these are normal looking?
I just picked up the truck last week so I don't know the service history on it. Not sure when these ones were put in.....
It's got pretty high mileage 213,000kms (132,000 miles) so fluid changes are on the priority list as well as a timing belt. When checking it when I bought it, the fluids all looked clean so not a huge rush to change, but definitely on the to do list.
Cabin filter is practically brand new, but the engine filter looked like it hadn't been changed in a while.
This may be a dumb question, but I am going to ask it anyway...for you folks who put in new NGK plugs, did you have to gap them, or do they come pre-gapped to a certain gap measurement/specification?
Reason I ask...I see some plugs come "pre-gapped" and they say, right in the ad for the plugs, not to re-gap.
I have got to ask.
Anyone with an '09 pius figure out a way to remove
the coils with out taking off the fan shroud/assembly?
I wanted to check the plugs but could not get the coil off.
There seem to be different experiences from people. I had to remove the shroud to get #4 coil pack off, but other people have reported no problems. BTW, there's a wire attached to the shroud -- it controls the A/C clutch and was a PITA to get it off, so be careful when removing it.
My theory at the moment is they parked on a hill, and the torque against the parking pawl in the transmission moved the engine on it's mounts just enough to provide the clearance.
Or.. there was something slightly different about their trucks.
I don't remember having to remove extra stuff like the fan or even an additional connector to remove the one on #4. It is just a matter of having the right extension and tools, I remember it was tight coming out but I got it without removing any extra items.