Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

2010 RTL with 11K?

5K views 47 replies 12 participants last post by  IanRTL 
#1 ·
Hey guys.

I'm desperately awaiting the new ridge design, but getting up close to 130K in miles on my 06. In another thread regarding the future of the ridge, a fellow ROC friend suggested I buy a late model ridge with low miles which will last me for another 4 or 5 years and get me past at least the first year of the redesign so the bugs can be worked out etc OR if the redesign sucks. I'm not stuck driving a ridge with 200K on it, but rather I'd have one with about 35K to 40K which will drive for a long time.

Anyway. I found a 2010 with 11Kish on it. For just under $31K How's that sound? I just started looking.

Thanks.

Bruce
 
#6 ·
thanks guys I appreciate the feedback. I've also found a 2011 RTL with everything I'd like except a tonneau cover....with only 9500 miles for the same price. That's a step in the right direction already. Of course BOTH of these are their asking prices. I've not even started to negotiation. I assume the 2011 fellow is really hoping to get $30K if he's asking $31K so I'd probably start at 29 or so. That's a private sale.

The dealer is already signaling he'll negotiate on price as I've told him I was heavily favoring the 2011 over his. His chief argument is his could be a "certified" vehicle and also he'd throw in a bumper to bumper up to 100K. Oh yeah the certification comes with another full year regular honda warranty just like the original warranty. So it would take the truck to 48K or 4 years. Obviously it's already at LEAST two years into that warranty.

My wife suggested the NEW angle so I'll be at least talking with my dealer today, but I don't really want to buy new right now unless there is some stupidly fab deal.

BTW, where's the best place to find info on dealer invoice prices, hold back,etc these days? I haven't bought anything since 06 so I'm a tad out of touch.

Thanks again!

Bruce
 
#9 ·
That certified 2010 is a great option, but, like I said in the other thread, the price is too high. You should be able to get that truck for under $30k OUT THE DOOR. If the dealer won't do that, shop around. There are others out there and it's not like you're in desperate need of a vehicle. What sort of trade-in are you being offered for your '06?
 
#11 ·
Thanks Ian and Chip.

I hear ya Ian. I haven't even started negotiating in earnest yet. I was thinking 29K for the 2010 and probably 30K for the 2011, as it has running boards and the under seat storage too plus mud guards front and rear.

I'm planning on taking my 06 to the dealer tomorrow afternoon for a conversation about the 2010 and viewing the 2011 sunday morning. So maybe I'll get a feel for the 06 price tomorrow. My gut though is they'll want to low ball me despite the fact that it's in good condition and has run like a fricking champ despite getting punched in the nose for almost $18K worth of damage about 4 years ago. So I wouldn't be surprised to see them offer $8K. I've checked various sites and it appears trade in would be about 8K on the low end, up to 12k on the high end. No way I'll get the high end.

Bruce
 
#12 ·
I know you probably already know this, but a good strategy for negotiations is to say you're thinking of keeping your '06 as an extra vehicle and buying another truck. That way, you can negotiate on the price of the new one first. Just when you're satisfied with the outright purchase price on the new vehicle (say you can get it under $30k out the door), say, "Ok, I like that price, but now I'd like to see what I can get for a trade-in for my 06." When the salesman says, "Well, I thought you said you were keeping it?" You say, "I said I was THINKING of keeping it." That way, you can negotiate the two deals separately instead of the dealer mixing the two and shifting around numbers to make the deal look good. You shouldn't let your truck go for anything less than $10k. They'll turn right around, clean it up and put it on their lot for $13-14k. They'd get at least $11-12k at an auction anyways. Either way, they're making money on it.
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the refresher. It's been awhile. But despite the way it looks in my posts.....I'll be ok on my feet and I ALWAYS negotiate everything separately. I'm not at all hesitant to walk away. I want to know:

1. What the absolute lowest price I can get for the new vehicle is
2. What the absolute best price I can get for mine is
3. If I'm financing (not happening this time) what the best terms I can get are...and btw, I'm ALWAYS armed with at least one quote from an outside financing resource.
4. Lastly I always make sure I know the invoice prices and trade/retail prices for everything, including any accessories I might want to add.

Whew!

Bruce
 
#14 ·
Good for you! Arming yourself with all that info is the best strategy. Like I indicated before, though, I think dealers can have a 10% or greater buffer in their asking price for used vehicles, so you might be surprised that they won't show you the door when you offer them $3-5K less for a vehicle tagged at $31K. Why not start LOW? If they brush you off, you can always say "OK, so make me a counter offer if you really want to sell this truck."
 
#16 ·
Oh, I forgot to add something else to my last post, albeit a bit late in the game here. Since anyone can read this forum and thread, you might not want to share any further specifics about the $$ amounts while a negotiation is in progress, assuming you get to that point. You really can't be sure that the dealer or private seller isn't following this thread, as unlikely as that may seem. After all, Honda dealers and other RL owners are naturally interested in what's being said on the ROCF, so why risk tipping your hand? Good luck!
Both extremely good points. Most times, the mark up on used vehicles is much higher than 10%. For instance, when I was selling, a coworker sold a 2003 Buick sedan (then only 3 years old) for $13,500. My dealership got it at an auction was only into it for $7000. The coworker made a commission of a little over $2000 just on that one sale. It NEVER hurts to start out with a lowball. Go in at $27k out the door and see what they say. If they really want to sell it, they'll work with you.
 
#15 ·
Oh, I forgot to add something else to my last post, albeit a bit late in the game here. Since anyone can read this forum and thread, you might not want to share any further specifics about the $$ amounts while a negotiation is in progress, assuming you get to that point. You really can't be sure that the dealer or private seller isn't following this thread, as unlikely as that may seem. After all, Honda dealers and other RL owners are naturally interested in what's being said on the ROCF, so why risk tipping your hand? Good luck!
 
#18 ·
Bruce,

136,000 on my '06 here. I desperately want a new truck now. But don't want to have to tell myself, "told ya you should have waited" when the new one comes out. So here's what I'm doing. I'm buying the new redesigned Ridge NOW. By making payments of $500 a month to me. Actually into my Scottrade account. Been doing this for about 4 months so whatever I end up doing in the end, I should feel good about this decision.
 
#20 ·
Thanks to all for the crazy good advice! Larry that was one helluva deal......I don't think they are giving incentives like THAT anymore!!
 
#21 ·
Yeah, I don't think there's been anything like that in years for the RL. Couple that with the fact that the retail MSRP's have gone up slightly and there's no way you can get a brand new RTL for anything close to $30k let alone $28k. After taxes and fees, you'll be in the $34k range at best and likely around $35k+. A good, certified 2-3 year old truck with low miles will save you $5000 easy and give you just as good of a warranty. Or roll the dice like I did and buy a 4 year old RTL with 75k miles from a private seller for half the original cost - no warranty. It's worked out for me! :)
 
#22 ·
Well......I pulled the trigger. I got the 2010 rtl with no navi @ 28,500.
They gave me 10K for my 06 with 123K. Please don't forget that it had nearly been totaled in 08.

Part of the deal was the addition of running boards, rear mud flaps, mounting my underseat storage from the 06 into the 10, the trunk cargo net too.

NOW....I need to buy a new tonneau cover (I had a BakFlip)....they'll put an OEM one on for cost. How ARE those? I recall in 06 they were expensive and not good at all. Still the same? Also I need some nice rubber mats as my new ride just has the carpeted mats.

BTW, the guy with the 2011 with 6500 on it and all of the above items except the tonneau, was firm on his $31K. So at least between those two particular vehicles....and with the added running boards and flaps and remounting my underseat.....I feel decent about the numbers. It's a nice truck. It's got a couple dings here and there, but I know a great body shop that'll take care of those for me for very little. Soon enough she'll look brand new.

Anyway.....thanks for all your great advice and help on this guys and gals. Let me know if I can return the favor.

BTW, it's got 18" wheels!!! Didn't know that. So I've got a practically brand new tire of the old size (16" I think) that I'll sell for cheap if someone wants or needs just one tire.

Bruce
 
#23 ·
Well......I pulled the trigger. I got the 2010 rtl with no navi @ 28,500.
They gave me 10K for my 06 with 123K. Please don't forget that it had nearly been totaled in 08.

Part of the deal was the addition of running boards, rear mud flaps, mounting my underseat storage from the 06 into the 10, the trunk cargo net too.
Congratulations! IMHO, it sounds like you got a great deal. That's essentially a new truck with baby mileage on it and a full warranty from the dealer.

I hope now you can enjoy your new vehicle and relax about the redesign that will come when it comes. You get to sit back and make choices on your timetable now, without worrying about hitting 200K miles.

BTW, after you apologized for hijacking the redesign thread, I had to chuckle because the discussion on the redesign thread seemed to stall out while most folks jumped over to this thread to follow your quest for a "new" RL! Could it be that many of us wish we were in your shoes shopping for a "new" ride?
 
#25 ·
OH yeah. I forgot one thing. It's certified with a full year extension on the 3/36K warranty and 7/100K on the drive train from first registration. So since it's a 2010, I've got one year of original warranty left and a one year bump to that. So two more years full coverage and 5 more years of power train warranty. They wanted to sell me a comp bumper to bumper for another grand. I didn't take the bait.
 
#30 ·
On Edmunds.com, a black 2011 RT in good condition with 11,000 miles (no optional equipment) has a dealer True Market Price of about $25,300 for the Kansas City area.

But a black 2010 RTL (no navi) in good condition with 11,000 miles (no options) has a dealer True Market Price of about $28,000 for the Kansas City area.

Add the options, certification, extended warranty, move-over services, and high trade-in you got for your 2006 with 126K mi. and draw your own conclusions.
 
#31 ·
But a black 2010 RTL (no navi) in good condition with 11,000 miles (no options) has a dealer True Market Price of about $28,000 for the Kansas City area.
Corrections: I said "good" condition but Edmunds uses the term "Clean". The only higher condition is "Outstanding". I also just noticed there is a dealer True Market Value Price for a CERTIFIED 2010 RLT like yours: $29,000 (without the extras you got). And the trade-in value for a red 2006 RLT with 126K miles in "Average" condition is $7,600.

True Market Value Price considers what vehicles are selling for in that locale and is supposed to represent a fair price that's a good value for the customer while allowing a reasonable profit for the dealer.
 
#33 ·
Great deal, Embo!! Phil's is an RT and you just bought a certified RTL. You got a very good price and probably saved about $6000 over buying brand new. I have a feeling you're going to be very happy with it. As far as the tonneau cover, the OEM one is ridiculously expensive. There are other options out there you can get brand new for $500-800 or so rather than $1300 for the OEM. I would even suggest maybe asking around on the "trading post" section to see if someone might be selling one. I got my Extang soft cover from a gentleman on here for $125. It was used, but it cleaned up very nicely and has served me well for over a year now.
 
#36 ·
Good question DOB.

The new ridge still smells NEW. Amazing. Especially considering an old fella had it for two years. No telling HOW many times he farted in her.

:act024:

By comparison, the new one seems to have just a tad more power. That's a good thing. I like the updated electronics in the trip meter section. It's also nice that XM, when in title mode, briefly shows the artist as well. Fog lights are handy. I like the aux port as well, plus the extra set of tie downs in the back will come in handy.

On the negative end, this truck has a tendency to be a tad more difficult to steer. My old ridge just seemed to go with the flow a bit more. Maybe the touch on the steering wheel was a tad lighter or something. I just find I have to steer this one a bit more.

Also for some reason I'm having trouble finding the comfort zone with my drivers seat. At first it felt like the very back end of the bottom was basically non-existent. I've noodled with it a bit and of course it's probably molding to my ample derriere.

I don't like that the auto climate control is ALWAYS on dual mode when in auto. I liked that I could just dial in the temp with one nob on my old one.

I had to buy an adapter for the hitch electrical as my trailer has the old 4 pin connection, no big deal there. $12.

OH....this is gonna sound really really dumb.....but I had one of the early 06 ridgelines, hence I couldn't reprogram the locks the way I wanted them without having the dealer put in a new fuse panel. So my passengers were always bitching about not being able to get out as soon as I parked (must be something about my driving). Anyway I LOVE having locks that actually unlock all around when I put 'er in park. Yahoo!!!

18" wheels over 17" wheels on the old one. I'm not sure of the benefit there. It looks a bit nicer I think but will probably cost more when I buy tires.

I got Weathertech floormats and put them in yesterday and my new tonneau (Fibermax from Bakflip) arrives tomorrow.

Oh wait. One last issue. I have a weird whistling noise at highway speed. It's a bit intermittent, but it's definitely there and annoying. I found the tsb on windshield noise. I suspect it's related to that. OR it could be coming from the moonroof. OH yeah....the moonroof. It's nice to have and surprisingly quiet compared to all previous ones I've had. My old rtl did not have one as standard equip.

OK. Sorry you asked??

BTW, thanks for following up and for the great idea in the first place!

Bruce
 
#37 ·
^^ The whistling noise could possibly be the issue with the plastic piece that spans the rear of the roof - just in front of the third brake light. There have been a few home-made fixes. Do some searching and you'll find a few ways to test it.

It's interesting to hear about the differences between the 06 model and the 2010 model. I've often thought about how it would feel to drive a newer one since I never have. Maybe I'll just go to a dealership sometime and take one for a spin. Having the moonroof is awesome. Especially on a nice day. When you open the moonroof and the rear sliding window, you get great airflow and it's extremely quiet. My wife and I rode for 8 hours on a trip to Tennessee like this. Glad to hear you're liking it!
 
#38 ·
Thanks Ian. I dug that info up and will drag it along with me to the dealer tomorrow when I go in for that fix as well as the detail they promised me.

But FIRST, the new tonneau!!

Bruce
 
#39 ·
And maybe some pictures after that detail is done??? :act024:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top