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OEM Tonneau Cover Install

46K views 63 replies 29 participants last post by  Eyeseeyou 
G
#1 ·
Hello all,

I got my cover from UPS this morning. I have been reading over the installation instructions. I had a few questions for those who have installed this on their own.

#1, What is the HARD PLASTIC PLATE (approximatly 50 mm x 80 mm x 1 mm)

#2, When removing the rear upper trim, did you use the KTC Tool and did you cover whatever you used with a cloth to keep from damaging the paint?

Any other Do's and Don'ts would be helpful.
 
#33 ·
Did it today and it was pretty easy. Instructions seem harder than it is. Still don't understand the purpose of the rubber gromets that I cut holes for. They are above the tonneau. Must be for ventilation or something.

The spring clip is next on the list
 
#34 ·
I got my new Ridgeline back from the dealer with the tonneau installed. One problem; it leaks. I called the dealer after the rain we just got to inquire about leaking and they told me it was typical. My own internet searches and side by side comparisons with a friends truck found that they installed the front rail (under the rear window) upside down!

I wonder how often this mistake is committed! It will _always_ result in leaks due to the design. My question is, does anyone know if the dealer can simply flip the front rail on the re-install or if the holes would not line up properly and yield the need to install a new front bed wall?
 
#35 · (Edited)
I think that falls under the ol'..."hey you guys f'd it up, now fix it, and I don't care how you do it, just install it right and, if you have to install a new front bed wall, so be it"! I mean, obviously it is up to you how you handle it, but personally, I have no patience for that kinda crap. I mean, they are supposed to be "progressionals" and know what they are doing...that is why you pay extra to have the guys who are supposed to know what they are doing to do the work, right? They installed it wrong, so they have to make it right, no questions asked. And, either the plug the holes that they made putting it in wrong the first time, or they replaced the screwed up parts...that simple.
 
#36 ·
I'm of the same mind as you, they'll fix it at their expense, but it's my time and gas to drive back and forth to the dealer. I exhibited extreme patience (for me) on the phone this morning with them. 5-Star service. Yea ok.....

Anyway, Just thought I'd share it, since, you really have to examine the rails to see if they are in place correctly or not, and if they are upside down, there are 3 visible leak points.
 
#37 ·
I installed one and I think it would have been pretty hard to drill the holes incorrectly in the front wall of the bed. Not impossible, but you really deserve a dope slap if you did. And you should not be allowed around power tools.

Second, if they installed that rail upside down, make sure they include connectors that form a seal between the front rail and the side rails. I'm not sure someone could install the rail upside down and still attach those connectors to the side rails. (They likely tossed them because they didn't line up - worthy of a second dope slap).

You may be disappointed to learn that even correctly installed, you'll probably still not have a waterproof bed. Typically, oem tonneaus let about two to three spoonfuls of water in at the hinge area after heavy rain. It will let a little more in if you fold back the back half. Mind you the RL is not really designed to have a waterproof bed, that's what SUVs are for. That considered, I really, really like my oem tonneau.

For pics of my install, visit rldude - Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting
 
#38 ·
Just getting ready to install OEM Tonneau cover before the NEXT snow fall. The spring clips are a great ides.

My question is, are all the holes drilled in the front wall and side wall necessary? I know a few of them are to mount the rails but the rest are for drainage!? And are they needed?
 
#42 ·
I've only had my RL for 3 weeks, but installed the clips as described in this thread recently. On two occasions since then, my tailgate would not open either way - as if the handles were locked. Sure enough, each time I had to push really hard on the top of the tailgate to get it to latch properly. Is anyone else having this issue since installing the clips? I'm assuming that the cover is no longer snugged up to the cab as a result of removing the mounting bolts, and it sometimes prevents the tailgate from latching fully.
 
#43 ·
I'm not sure I understand the problems. By "clips" I am assuming you mean the hitch pins. They should not interfere with any of the tonneau functionality.

If the cover is not snug to the back of the cab, that is an indication something is not installed properly.

An earlier post referred to the front rail being possibly installed upside down. Hard to believe it is possible, but, anything can happen. Maybe you have that too? It sounds as though the cover isn't sitting where it should.
 
#46 ·
It doesn't appear loose at all - it doesn't budge when I try to move it. I'm just assuming that it is not as tight with the pins vs the bolts. The bolt will lock it into the bracket. With a pin, it just floats. Just wanted to know if anyone else that has installed the pins has had any issues with their tailgate not opening due to latch problems. When it happens, I have to push really hard on the top of the tailgate to get it to latch, then it will open again. So that tells me the cover may be impeding on how the gate closes. Anyone having this issue?
 
#48 ·
The oem does a good job, but it is not perfect. The design of the bed of the ridge is not such as to make a weathertight seal possible. Note the gap between the tailgate and the bumper.

If the oem is installed correctly, it is pretty much watertight until you open it. The hinge in the middle, the movement of the rubber gaskets across the interface - when you open the tonneau, water resting on top will roll into the hinge area and a few tablespoons will roll/drip in.

The front corners of the oem mounting brackets have oddly shaped spongy seals between the brackets. If these are not installed correctly with their shapes matching to the rails, or if they were mis-shaped during transit due to other parts resting on them, and they don't spring back into shape during installation, then the water-tight seal may be compromised. You can read reports of some owners being disappointed with theirs. Reading between-the-lines, it seems evident that is the problem. One owner even wrote that it seemed a rail was installed upside down, so there can be problems with installation.

After four years and seeing about every storm shy of a hurricane, I know to expect a couple of drips of water (maybe two tablespoonfulls) of water in each corner, and a few drops in when I open it.
 
#52 ·
I absolutely love it. Worked with it for four years now. Bit I'll be the first to say it is not for everyone - it depends on what cargo you are carrying and how you plan to use it.

I take mine on and off regularly. For some, it is a bit too heavy and lighter options are available. Some prefer more folds. I was "this close" and I mean very close to buying a Full Metal Jacket, but at the last minute realized I wanted to completely remove the cover often, and not have the retract container at the front of the bed.
 
#50 ·
Ive had my OEM cover for 5? years now and it works fine. Theres some leakage but nothing too crazy. One thing i recommend though is not installed the 4 mounting bolts in the brackets. Instead use carriage pins of a simillar size. Then when you need to haul something that wont fit under the cover it will only take you about 2 minutes to remove.
 
#51 ·
thanks Haar.

Am I correct in assuming it doesn't fold more than in the middle? In other words, it doesn't fold back flat against the cab, just once over in the middle.

Bruce
 
#53 ·
I bought my 06 Ridgeline and it had the OEM tonneau cover installed on it.

That thing is freaking heavy to get off and back in the truck. :act063:

What a pain although thanks to this forum I replaced the securing bolts with cotter pins so at least it comes out quicker.
 
#55 ·
I just picked up a used cover locally and definitely gonna do the 3/16 pin mod. I received just the cover with no hardware so my question is what is minimally necessary to install it. I know the rails for sure but can I get away with not buying the whole hardware kit?
 
#56 ·
The answer depends upon how much hardware came with your used cover. If it was just the folding cover, you are going to need the install kit. If you got the brackets (seen in this photo) you may be able to get by with just the rails. You will surely need those brackets.


It may not be as water-tight without the kit, as it contains some gaskets that seal the plastic corner parts that fit the rails together.

Also, I don't know how easy it may be to find the right bolts that secure the rails to the truck.

Here is a photo of the install kit that comes with the tonneau. If you purchase the kit by itself, I think it does not include the yellow snaps the secure the roof valence. Those must be replaced, and not reused, after removing the valence. New ones must be used.



Good luck.
 
#60 ·
Like the knobs. I'll have to get some for my install.
Got a used factory cover and most of the hardware.
The Ridgeline it came off of did not have the 4 holes drilled in the front bed panel, so no grommets. Are they necessary, if so can i just use round grommets the hardware store has.
Thanks
 
#64 ·
Does anyone have a link to the installation instructions? I’m looking at picking up a used one but not 100% sure what’s included and neither is the seller.

Looks like the cover and rails are for sure included.

if everyone is included how difficult is the install?
 
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