Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

changing coolant?

27K views 30 replies 14 participants last post by  northernlights 
#1 ·
When should the coolant be changed?:cheerleader:
 
#2 ·
Honda recommends at 100k plus miles, usually when the T belt is replaced, the water pump and other belts and pulleys are changed, therefore the coolant fluid is changed at the same time. 105k miles should be a valid answer.
 
#18 ·
#3 ·
I agree with laserguy. OTOH, there has been some evidence that it might be beneficial to change sooner. But the MM should alert you (-5 code). Seems a good time would be when the TB and WP are done, as Al mentioned.

I may go ahead and do a D&F on the coolant on our Pilot which recently hit 81k miles. It should be a very simple task. I'll see how difficult I can make it. ;)
 
#4 ·
I have heard different ways to this, I am curious to know if just a simple drain does it or the engine should be running while we drain it.


then once it is drained, pour the whole gallon then just top it off with water.

Is this the right method? How would you do it?

I don't think Honda sells premixed containers, the Toyota dealers love pushing the premixed gallons and saying it is better and it just costs more.
 
#7 ·
Just drain, do not run the engine while it is draining. It doesn't take long for the block to get hot with no coolant in it, and remember it is all aluminum.
 
#5 ·
#9 ·
I changed mine at 50,000 miles - simply because if I left it there for 100,000, that would be 10 years for me. I can't see leaving the same coolant in there for 10 years. I did the drain and fill, and drained out of the engine block as well as the radiator. The stuff that came out looked pretty much as good as the new Honda coolant I put in, though.
 
#10 ·
Where is that drain bolt on the engine exactly? Is it easy to get to? Any concerns of introducing an air bubble into the system that would permit hot spots to develop?
 
#11 · (Edited)
I couldn't find a picture of the engine block drain, but here's a good thread about it: http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33635

As discussed in that thread, if you slide under the truck like you're going to change the oil and look straight up at the rear side of the engine block you'll see the coolant drain bolt - it looks like a big brake bleeder valve and is pretty much the only thing up there on that side. As far as introducing an air bubble into the system - per the service manual (after draining and refilling the cooling system):

12. Install the radiator cap loosely.
13. Start the engine and let it run until it warms up (the radiator fan comes on at least twice).
14. Turn off the engine. Check the level in the radiator and add Honda coolant if needed.
15. Put the radiator cap on tightly, then run the engine again, and check it for leaks.

Steps 12 and 13 above are to bleed all the air out of the cooling system. Coolant capacity per the service manual (including the reserve tank capacity of .16 US gallons) is 1.64 gal. after coolant change.
 
#22 ·
I just changed the coolant on my Ridgeline. Here is a picture looking at the rear of the block from behind the front right control arm (above the oil drain plug). The Honda drain is very nice. It is like a large brake bleeder valve. A 1/4" ID hose fits over the valve. I used some spare small engine fuel line I had lying around.

Block Drain



Block drain draining into pan along with radiator


My FAVORITE Lisle coolant funnel. Makes it so easy to fill the system, bleed it properly and remove the funnel without spilling a drop...
 
#12 ·
Thanks groupset.
 
#13 ·
While bonding with my Ridge last summer, I took this pic into the right front wheel well with the wheel removed. The brass fitting at the approximate center is the coolant drain bolt. (It appears to be angled up in the pic, but it's more or less horizontal.) As I recall, it takes a 1/4" I.D. drain hose/tube.

The coolant replacement procedure is described in Section 10 of the service manual.
 

Attachments

#15 ·
Soitainly!

 
#16 ·
:act029: Question? Would selecting full hot on both climate controls while engine is running before commencing radiator drain open heater valves to allow more fluid to drain? Of course motor would be shut down before draining. :act014::act010: Al "The Edge of Nowhere"
 
#17 ·
I suspect any coolant flow through the heater core is constant, no valve involved. Only doors to direct the air flow. Of course, the engine would be warmed enough to open the engine thermostat.
 
#21 ·
Gotchya. Makes sense. Thanks!
 
#23 ·
Nice pics ssmokn. Never heard of that coolant/bleeder funnel. ~$20 at Amazon. Dang, another tool to add to the list. ;)

Looks like bleeding the block will be easiest if the RL is up on jackstands to provide room to slide underneath to work. You did say the block drain is on the rear, correct?
 
#24 ·
I bought mine from Amazon a few years ago. It's just one of those tools that isn't necessary but boy does it make the job enjoyable.

You leave the funnel half full and just let the car run with the heat on. Slowly the air comes out and the coolant goes in. Then when you shutdown leave it in place while the car cools and it will draw in any additional coolant as needed. There is a plug to stick in the funnel when time to remove it so you don't make a mess. Then but the funnel in the bottle and pull the plug and capture the remaining new coolant in the funnel. The thing is genius.

The block drain is on the back of the motor (firewall side) directly over the right inner CV joint. Probably not necessary but if you remove the right front tire (that's what I do) it is right there. If you aren't putting the vehicle up on stands then I'm sure you can still do this but you might want to turn the wheel full lock to the left so you can sneak in there.
 
#25 ·
I know this is an old link, oldie but goodie. I thought I would put my 2 cents in since I did it today. First, I would like to say how much I appreciate the knowledge I can get from this site. I have had the same luck with a former car owners club and two motorcycle clubs, which enabled me to do quite a few mods. I have the Ridgeline service manual, and together with this site was able to change all the fluids over the years and add a couple economical accessories. I bought it new in 07 and have managed to stay away from the dealer pretty much.

This job was harder than I thought it was going to be. The petcock on the radiator is very hard to access. I could not reach it from above, and the 3" access door on the bottom was not very friendly either. So I had to make up a tool, kind of like a slotted socket, out of a thin piece of pipe with a hole drilled in the end to insert a small rod, just to be able to turn the petcock. As for that drain fitting on the rear of the engine- that was really hard to reach also. I took off the right front wheel, put it up on jack stands and struggled to get a wrench on it and turn. By the way, it takes a 12 mm wrench or socket. I loosened it with a socket and then switched to a combination wrench after I got the hose in place. I picked up 4' of clear tubing at the hardware store for 40 cents a foot. Although the box said the tubing was 1/4" I.D. it was too tight. I reamed out the end to make the opening larger with a 17/64 drill bit and it fit good. But that was hard to reach and turn. The wrench barely fit. I did get out about what the service manual says- 1.65 gallons, and by the time I filled the radiator and overflow tank, it took almost the 2 gallons I bought. (I had 1 quart leftover). That funnel is available at your local NAPA store for $35, part number 24680, which is the updated version (although you don't need the updated peices- you only need the funnel, stopper, and Part C yellow fitting inside Part c radiator cap). It works really good. That was the only fun part of the whole job and the least time consuming. The fan came on real soon, so I let it run longer until it came on three times.

Last time, 5 years ago, I had the dealer flush the coolant. He charged me $159 and I noticed on the receipt there was only 1 gallon of coolant. So I am thinking he only did the radiator, not the engine block. Since coolant went up in price, I'm not sure what today's price would be. So I bought two gallons for $39.50 plus tax. It's really like buying only one gallon because it's half water, so the way I see it they are charging $39.50 per gallon! But I probably saved $100 by doing it myself, although it did take me most of the day when it was all said and done, but at least the whole job got done this time.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Jiffy Lube should be buying those up.. but maybe they don't understand how they work. Just recalling JL customer complaints about cracked heads, etc. on some car models because the coolant system was not bled properly.

Great pics and text.. who says they can't DIY?
 
#27 ·
I have that exact funnel, It makes changing coolant so easy.

Tip: have it slightly over full and after running it till fans come on, leave it connected thru cool down, it will allow extra coolant in, rather than taking it from the overflow tank.

$0.02
 
#28 ·
I forgot about this thread. I bought one of those Lisle funnels a good while back and have used it successfully to change the coolant in both vehicles. It does indeed work great.

I never bothered with draining the block. I don't think there's that much extra fluid that comes out. For those of you who have drained the block, how much extra fluid did you get out by doing so?
 
#29 · (Edited)
1/2 a QT, total waste of time, IMHO.

On one of the SMOD threads, I posted a picture of it I believe, If I can find the picture or link to it I'll add it here.

Amazingly, after 16 months of "Blue Type II" it looked more aqua than blue

 
#30 ·
Thanks for that Mike. I knew someone had commented on the residual left in the block, but couldn't remember the details.
 
#31 ·
Wow and i was goin by the book and talked to the stealer a few years back about the anti freeze, he said no need to change it cause of my miles and or the year. I just replaced mine with along with the timing belt, water pump, valve job, plugs ect..... and anything else thats part of it. It was nice to get it all done within a day and have a loner and I didnt have to do a thing but pay the bit over $900 bucks :act018:. I no that might sound like lot and to me it is but I got a warranty, didnt have to take time off work and SHOULD be done right, after all their a Honda Stealership. Six months later all is good. I like my OLD RL.:cheerleader:
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top