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Aftermarket Catalytic Converter & Rear O2 sensor replacement

19K views 26 replies 14 participants last post by  fstamand 
#1 ·
Hello fellow ROC members,

I was hoping you might have some insight or reccommendation on aftermarket Catalytic Converter for 2006 Ridgeline. I need to replace my cat & rear O2 sensor before my next state inspection, so the check engine light will go off. Quote from dealer was about $1200 to replace catalytic converter & rear O2 sensor. I was browsing around in the past over the internet and most aftermarket catalytic converters seem to be substantially cheaper than the Honda one. Any thoughts on a reliable replacement, preferebly bolt on (no welding required) for replacement? I don't need high performance or anything. My Ridge has 103,000 miles.

Thanks in advance! Happy Holidays!
 
#2 ·
I think you will be fine with a good after market one. If I am correct, Honda doesn't make their own converters anyway.
 
#4 ·
They are charging you so much because its all labor. I had to change both of Mine and I was qouted1700 but I went to a custom muffler shop and got it done for 850. And it took them 7 hours to complete because to get them out you may have to remove the exhaust and drop the front axle.
 
#5 ·
Or you could have the light turned off with a code reader just before your inspection, but I don't recommend it!

Just in case it fails the test!
 
#6 ·
You might get lucky by replacing the O2 sensor and resetting the codes. I think I'd try that first. IMO, the cats shouldn't need replacing so soon. Unless they've been damaged by misfire or something.
 
#7 ·
I did the de-fouler method on our 2005 ody and our 2006 Ridgeline (both had the cel on with the P04** codes) and within a day the CEL code went away, came back once and has not come back in over 2 years.

My take on the the high frequency with which this code appears on Honda's is that they have programmed very tight variances into what the sensors receive and expect as "normal". I'd love to see someone with the code go to an emissions station and do the exhaust pipe test. I bet the results would show that the emissions are still extremely clean. Anyway, I think the thought behind the "fix" below is that pulling the O2 sensor farther away from the cat, even by an inch or so, takes it out of the stream enough that it doesn't detect as much of the crap that it is monitoring.

This is a $5 fix that has worked on both of our Hondas. I was disappointed after the code came back the first time thinking that it didn't work. But after a day or so it went away and has never come back.

The hardest part is finding the room to get the o2 sensor out.

Here is the link on how it's done: http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2162522

Hope it helps, Adam
 
#8 ·
I haven't heard of what areno suggested, but I guess for $5 it's worth a shot. Older Hondas are notorious for tripping multiple codes if there is a bad O2 sensor. If the de-fouler method doesn't work, I also recommend changing out just the O2 sensor and drive it normally for a day or 2 to see if the other codes disappear. Worked on my old CR-V.
 
#9 ·
My daughter drives an old Nissan Sentra with 140K on it. When I go to get the state inspection (virginia) I used my code scanner to see what code is being "thrown" and write it down for my memory. Right before I run it through the inspection I used the scanner to reset. Works everytime for me.
 
#10 ·
Re: Aftermarket Catalytic Converter

Hello all,

151,000 miles here and I'm getting a persistent P0420 code. I got it to go off for a few miles after changing gas, but it is staying on.

I will try to swap the sensors and clean them, but if it fails and I must replace the warm-up bank 1 cat, where can I get a good aftermarket one?

Many thanks
 
#11 ·
I am now getting the same code on my 06. I need to ask the same question: Where can we get a good aftermarket CC for our Ridges?

Also, has anyone tried the 02 sensor "non-fouler trick" by placing the sensor a bit further away from the flow with a DIY adapter?

Thanks
 
#12 ·
i've been due for quite some time (over a year), luckily my problem started right after I did my emissions test which is run only 2 years. Seeing as I am due I have been considering biting the bullet and getting my rear cat from Majestic (about $410) or going this route which is considerably cheaper.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350712639583?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Yes, I know $469 looks like a lot but for both the front and rear with new hardware is not a bad deal. You can buy just one for $279 from the same seller but for $200 more i'd rather just buy both and be done with it for another 100k miles (cross my fingers).

Good luck.
 
#14 ·
I realize this is an old post but thought a reply might help someone still having these same questions. P0420 and P0430 are CATYCTIC CONVERTER EFFICIENCY BELOW THRESHOLD. 0420 is bank 1 manifold cat on the firewall side and 0430 is bank two on the radiator side. The downstream cat does not have any O2 sensors and cannot throw a code.

I replace a few of the 02 sensors, the Bank1 upstream is a bear to get at and for any of them it's a job and you should have the special 02 sensor wrench. We used Denso 02 sensors but not from Honda, not too pricey maybe 40 bucks each? Long story it's a lot of work and most likely will not cure the problem. Just bite the bullet and replace both manifold cats if you have at or near 100k miles or more.

I got my cats on eBay from Canada for $150 each, no NY or California certification required there so they are a lot less and seem to be OEM quality for about 1/3 the price. If you live in NY or Calif or any other state that has adopted the Calif clean air policies your local auto store will not even be legally allowed to sell you the non-Calif cats, and mail order places will probably not ship to you.

We pulled the right drive shaft to get to the Bank1 cat, made it a lot easier and not the Honda recommended procedure, which involves a lot of stuff being removed. Bank2 is a snap compared to the back one.

Hope this helps anyone getting these codes and fighting with them, forget about all the urban legends about adding lacquer thinner or dry gas or running premium fuel. When your cats are plugged they need to be replaced, and your performance will increase dramatically along with your mpg.

Danny K.
 
#15 ·
Danny, if the cats are plugged, can't you ballpark test them with an IR gun? I seem to recall a test along that line of thought but can't locate the reference at the moment. If so, that would seem a good way to confirm or deny the cats being plugged. Thoughts?
 
#16 ·
Speed,

Not at all aware of that procedure, although we do use IR thermal guns for our powder-coating. I would go with the mileage, anything in the ballpark of 100k throwing either of those codes is a sure fire sign of the cats being bad. In my experience the OEM O2 sensors are pretty good and rarely fail. Common sense tells you a cat will get plugged from normal high mileage and the crappy fuel they sell in North America long before a simple sensor would fail. The downside to all the second guessing and stop gap measures is you eventually come full circle and do what was first recommended, then you have a lot of extra time and expense trying to avoid the inevitable. 0420 or 0430 codes... replace the manifold cats and get it over with. Based on my own experience with a quarter of a million Ridgeline miles, for what it's worth. Danny K.
 
#18 ·
Thanks ridged. While that wasn't the reference I recalled, that illustrates perfectly what I had in mind!

Iirc, I think a member posted a procedure using an IR gun to test for proper cat operation. But the video you linked is perfect!

I wasn't quite sure what Eric meant about the code reader. Couldn't something like Torque Pro provide the same O2 voltage readings? I'm pretty sure I've seen that on my setup and will try to remember to look next opportunity I have.
 
#19 ·
I wasn't quite sure what Eric meant about the code reader. Couldn't something like Torque Pro provide the same O2 voltage readings? I'm pretty sure I've seen that on my setup and will try to remember to look next opportunity I have.
Different code readers have different capabilities and I'm not familiar with TP but it might very well provide the voltage readings.
 
#20 ·
In particular, he mentioned a bi-directional scan tool. Not sure what that is or if that's important in the process. I hope most any OBD2 scan tool (such as Torque Pro, etc.) would work.
 
#22 ·
a "Bi-Directional" Scan Tool, not only has the ability to "read" codes, but at a minimum "clear" them or "write new data", reading live data is an additional feature, but by now almost all have the first two mastered.
 
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#23 ·
So is an app like a Torque Pro considered a bi-directional scanner since you can clear codes as well as read codes with it?
 
#25 · (Edited)
My basic understanding, yes, but someone with more knowledge could provide more. My first code reader, only purely read the code, you then went online, (BBS server IIRC) and looked up the code, and the steps to trick clear the error, or parts required to fix. Not every car & code was on the site, some were 'generic' code conversions. This stuff has been around since early/mid 90's OBD 1, with OBD 2 being mandatory with 1996 MY. I don't remember now, many were ready in 95, but a few vehicles, debuted late, because, the MFG wasn't entirely ready, smaller companies. Wonder if there is a history of OBD, if I find anything I'll add to this post.

:nerd:
 
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#24 ·
I paid $154 each for Bank 1 and Bank 2 with gaskets from Canada on eBay. Good quality and never had any problems with them. If you can't find those I can look up the seller for you. Will not be that cheap anywhere in the US because most are NY and Calif compatible so more expensive. Secondly even if some 'trick' stopped the code, which is doubtful, this does not mean your Cats are still not clogged and robbing power, plus of course causing pollution which is the whole point in the first place. D.K.
 
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