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Check Engine/VTM-4 light on...

148K views 31 replies 20 participants last post by  HGrewal 
#1 ·
Just had the little engine icon light up and the VTM-4 light come on at startup. They stayed on. Interesting to note that last Wed. I had my oil/oil filter, air filter, and VTM-4 oil changed. The RL also sputters when slowing down to stop and when stopped but does not stall. Thoughts?
 
#2 ·
Engine light and sputtering.... bad gas?

VTM-4 light comes on... problem with the VTM-4 system.

Recent maintenance? It all sounds too coincidental to me.

Sorry... not much help here.
 
#3 ·
Gas is a possibility. I was running out of gas, needle was on E, starting sputtering a bit, filled it alittle. Went home. Had to run right back out, started it up, and the engine icon came on.

VTM-4 - who knows.

However, you are right. Way too coincidental. Just got it serviced last Wed. and 6 days later, problems.

Goes in today at 2:30PM. We shall see.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
engine light def from air getting in system no big deal may need dealer to clear light at least i had to...twice...no history with other light i have changed that fluid a few times i used small motorized pump to remove old fluid and make sure you use honda vtm4 fluid. no other.
good luck.
keep me informed.
 
#5 ·
Would air cause the sputtering? Easy to turn the light off, but, it is sputtering.

VTM-4 service was done by the Honda shop.

We'll see how it goes.

Thanks.
 
#6 ·
I hope they filled the differential back up.

The engine sputtering could be from running the fuel down to empty. Mash the gas a few times.
 
#7 ·
Well, this is going to cost me $220. Went today. They told me it was the EGR valve. It was clogged and I need a new one. Cost $146. They charged me for an hour's labor today - $74. Told me it is NOT under warranty. Hmmmm. 2006 with 32,900 miles on it. Thought it was an emission part which would be covered to my knowledge.

Anyway, it is what was causing the engine to sputter. It inturn caused the engine light to go on which in turn make the VTM-4 light go on because according to them, when there is something wrong with the engine, it shuts down the VTM-4 because the engine is unable to supply power to it, etc.

I am just curious why I was charged for them to run the codes and "clean" the EGR valve, yet, I need a new one. When I started it up, both lights were out. Took it about a mile and the truck still sputtered so I turned right back around and told them about it. They pulled some type of plug and it runs better than it did before????? Engine light and VTM-4 light came back on though. Part is ordered.

Thoughts?
 
#8 ·
I just had my 30K maintenance over a month ago on my 06 Rigdeline. check engine and VTM light came on as I was pulling out of the driveway. Got to the corner, turned off the engine and started back up again. The VTM light disappeared but the check engine light still on.

Taking into the dealer to diagnosis -- It's going to be at least $100 for the diagnostics. Interesting how this happens just as the the 3yr/30k warranty runs out.
 
#9 ·
snip
Taking into the dealer to diagnosis -- It's going to be at least $100 for the diagnostics. Interesting how this happens just as the the 3yr/30k warranty runs out.
That would be 3 year/ 36k warranty.

Or 5 years/60k for the drivetrain.
 
#10 ·
Yip it was 3yr/36K warranty. The service was a for B36 code, performed at 41K. The check engine light came on at 42.6K

Dealer checked it out and reported Code P0116 Coolant Temp Sensor Range Performance. A software update cleared the check engine light.

Software updates should be covered by the manufacturer as a service bulletin. If you release software that buggy and needs to be updated, the update shouldn't cost the consumer. In the in the information technology industry, software updates to fix bugs or patch an issue are released as free updates. The auto industry should do the same. At least provide a longer warranty period for software updates. Maybe 5yr/60K warranty on software updates.

It feels like stuff starts to break soon after manufacturer's warranty expires for me all the time. Guess I'll be investing in extended warranties more often.
 
#11 ·
I was out of town last Saturday and stopped at a gas station an filled up. I can t recall but they might have only had e80 fuel available. Anyway, shortly after my VTM-4 and engin light came on. I stopped and tightened my gas cap, but that did not resolve the issue. The engine light comes on imediatly then the VTM-4 seems to come on when the engine warms.

My Solution - The Tuesday following, I had used half a tank, I topped up with premium gas (about 9 gallons) after 15 miles the VTM-4 light went off. this morning the engine light did not turn on.

I never noticed any rough running, but did notice a few squeals from the rear tires.
 
#13 ·
This is happening to me now... 06 Ridgeline with 156,673 miles. Only comes on in the morning after sitting all night.

After restarting the VTM-4 light goes out and only the engine light stays on.

So far eventually as the day goes on the light goes out and stays off. The car is running fine otherwise.
 
#14 ·
First thing to do asap: Get the codes read! Stop by Autozone or someplace similar & they will read the codes for free. This will get you started..... could be something very minor that needs replacing. (e.g. sensor, switch)

It's possible (even likely) that this has nothing at all to do with your VTM-4 (but could be switches there)..... that light comes on in conjunction with other failure codes as well. The CEL codes will tell the tale.
 
#16 ·
I haven 06 178,000 miles I bought new. Check engine and vtm4 light come off and on all the time. Usually after filling tank or at 3/4 full. Doesn't make any difference what grade gas or station I use. Lights will go off after a day or so. Dealer sail they couldn't check unless lights were on. I suspect it is oxygen sensor but other that being annoying the truck runs fine and has always got good mileage? Now dealing with doors not opening with remote but that is another post. Still love the RL and unless the new one is really something I'll drive this one for many more years.
 
#17 ·
Flying Butcher,

How long have you been driving your vehicle with the lights going off and on with no ill effects?

I am asking because despite the light coming on I am getting really outstanding gas mileage and the car is running great.

If it is the sensor whatever it is doing it is benefiting me.

As long as the car runs great I think I will ignore the light. Fortunately I live in an area where emissions checks aren't required.

I am so anal about my car though, and the light IS annoying.

A $400.00 bill is more annoying though.
 
#18 · (Edited)
Went to Honda (code was off at the time) Found an honest tech who told me that since the code turns off it is an intermittent fault that is likely only occuring because the O2 sensor is taking too long to warm up.

The 2 x Codes I got at an earlier visit was P1157 (Bad O2 sensor) and P0155 (bad O2 sensor heater.)

He said at present time the light might be annoying but as long as it keeps going off I dont have to get it fixed yet...so I won't.
 
#19 ·
Had the bad oxygen sensor replaced yesterday. Original estimate was 550.00 (ouch). Fortunately it wound up costing of less, only $357.00 costs and labor.

Engine feels a lot better now (just took it for a little jaunt on the highway) and best of all no more CEL and VTM-4 lights. Weather is about to get bad and I need my 4WD.
 
#20 ·
The lights have been comming off and on for well over a year now. The VTM light goes off pretty quick (maybe like th post above states-it is just taking a little longer to warm up?) The check engine light takes probably a half tank to go off. It will stay off until I fill tank up again. After maybe 1/8 tank use the lights come back on and we go through the same dance over and over. Did have it checked (with both lights on) and no oxygen sensors showed up. All cylinders miss firing and right bank running rich????? Runs fine just idles rough and lights are a pain.
 
#21 ·
Flying Butcher,

In my case the lights started coming back on much quicker. Eventually the CEL stopped turning off at all and the VTM-4 started coming back on a lot quicker (or it wasn't turning off at all).

I decide the writing was on the wall and I needed to get it fixed now! Especially since the weather is about to get bad here and I need my 4WD to work.

In addition, I also found out that front brakes I had been putting off were due, so I had the dealer replace them for just a little more than the original estimate for the O2 sensor ?!
 
#22 ·
2007 Ridgeline with 98k....engine light came on, vtm-4 light as well....I have worked on motorcycles for decades, did my research, thought about it....realized the spark plugs have never been replaced!..they are NGK iridium type.....I read that if the module picks up an intermittent miss on one or more cylinders, it will confuse the very sensitive pick-ups that warn of traction loss, which illuminates the vtm-4 light, as well as the engine warning light....I found the number 5 plug ( the one center and front on the engine), and igniter to be dirty and the plug tip had separated internally from the ceramic insulator..making the spark have to jump, causing misfire at low rpms, and thus causing all these warning lights...with 6 new plugs, all lights are off...praying helped too......JUST GOOD INFO TO SHARE!
 
#29 ·
I found the number 5 plug....
I have a 2008 and the same exact piston (#5) plug came loose and ruined the engine in middle of nowhere. Cost me $7K to ship the car back home and change the engine. I also read other posts about piston #5 plug coming loose. This is an engine flaw that Honda keeps trying to keep it hush hush. Before my Ridgeline, I had a 4runner. Never had this odd-ball issues.
 
#23 ·
I just had mine come on at 120,000. Took to dealer. Every code on transmission turned on. Diagnosed bad battery. Replaced one year old battery with Honda battery. Still happened. VTM lock disabled even in 2nd gear. Was not looking forward to a $1700 transmission control sensor.

...started fishing around myself...

A few weeks ago, my son lost his 12V to USB converter. Gave him mine and replaced it with one that I was given in a "kit" of car adapters. Turns out that the cheap, no-name USB adapter was causing hell with the Ridgeline electrical system. As soon as I unplugged it, VTM light went off and VTM now enables in 2nd gear.

Maybe that won't work for everyone but give it a try. Disconnect anything plugged into the 12V power...
 
#26 ·
Hi, long time reader first time caller...

I got my 06 ridgeline in October with a little less than 50k miles ( it took me more than a year to find a used one owner with low mileage) and recently had an issue with the check engine/vtm-4 . The problem started with an irregular idle on ''park'' and soon after (maybe 2-3 short ride) the warning lights came on, rough idle, hesitations on acceleration and a strange ticking noise and a lot of engine vibrations, i got straight home and there was a burnt rubber smell coming from the front grill. The next day i sent the truck to my tech and here's what happened: spark plug on cyl 5 came loose and shorted on the head causing the coil pack to melt and the spark plug to stick/weld itself. It took a couple hours to get all of the melted coil out and when they tried to remove the spark plug the treads came with it. We had to do an helicoil, put a new spark plug and coil pack...750$ in parts and labour.

I used to have perfectly smooth engine with no ticking or knocking sounds, now i have what my tech describes as a piston slap which is almost the norm on 3.5l honda v6. Between 1500 and 2000 rpm when the engine is on park or when cruising with a light throttle application the tickling sound is getting me crazy to the point that i dont like my truck anymore. I had 170k miles on my previous car (2002 crv) and the engine was smooth as new, i was expecting the same kind of quality from another honda product, especially the engine. There will be a low mileage ridgeline for sale soon.
 
#30 ·
The next day i sent the truck to my tech and here's what happened: spark plug on cyl 5 came loose and shorted on the head causing the coil pack to melt and the spark plug to stick/weld itself.
Plug #5 came loose on mine and melted the whole thing into the piston. Cost me $7k to ship the car back home (we were on road trip) and change the engine. There are multiple owners that have had the very same issue on plug #5 in this group. What's worse is that Honda accepts NO responsibility whatsoever. I was a toyota owner before and wanted to try Honda - so I bought a ridgeline. That was mistake on my part. It's not just about the car. It's about company backing up its products. The way it turned out for me was when I bought a Honda, I didn't buy a honda but it is as though I bought 1980's Ford Escort - quality is not what it used to be. Back to Toyota for me.
 
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