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#11 |
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ROC Rank: Senior
2010
*Former Ridgeline Owner
Alabaster Silver Metallic Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: NW of Atlanta - OTP
Posts: 561
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
Another question. It sounds as though NGK clearly states to NOT use anti-seize due to the special coating they use in manufacturing their plugs. This is contrary to Honda's FSM which say to use the anti-seize, but this is probably a general rule and not exclusive to the use of NGK plugs (although I know that's what comes from the assembly line).
So if 13 ft-lbs is the torque, it is likely that this is the anti-seize rating and not the "dry" rating (as others before has pointed out that there are two different ratings). If the OP has used something other than NGK, should he have used anti-seize and torqued to 13 ft-lbs? If he used NGK, should he have installed dry and torqued to some rating other than 13 ft-lbs? Finally, the NGK bulletin states that you don't use anti-seize for "initial" installation. I assume that the metal coating is a "one-time" type protector, so if you remove to inspect plugs, then re-install, you'd need to use anti-seize (and then would the torque spec be 13 ft-lbs)? I guess that I'm not completely convinced that there's two different specs based on using anti-seize or not. Especially if the coating on the plug serves the same purpose as the anti-seize. Other than reading it here, I've not heard to multiple torque specs before based on the use of AS (not to say I'm not the ignorant one, I've just never seen it in anything more official than this forum).
__________________
2010 Alabaster Silver Honda Ridgeline RTL My Mods - Peragon Tonneau Cover, DIY Tailgate Lock, WeatherTech Digital Front Mats, Wired Backup Camera, Sportwing Side Moulding, Infinity 1031t Tweeter mod, Romik Black Runningboards, 2012 Grill, Stampede Custom Color Matched Low Profile Hood Deflector, Fumoto Oil Valve Pending Mods - Came with - Front & Rear splash guards, AVS Front & Rear In-Channel Ventshades, Honda Silver Roof Rack
Last edited by Nuke83; 12-30-2012 at 07:21 AM. Reason: added question |
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#12 |
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Moderator
2008
RTS
Billet Silver Metallic Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: High Point, NC
Posts: 14,091
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
Here's the summary from the NGK tech bulletin. The question remains... is NGK referring to their own plugs or all plugs?
![]() To the point about removing and reinstalling NGK plugs, another good question. Here's a little about the metal shell coating NGK uses:
Last edited by speedlever; 12-30-2012 at 07:29 AM. |
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#13 |
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ROC Rank: Freshman
2006
RTL
Sterling Gray Metallic Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
I did use NGK plugs. They went in fine and I felt nothing resistance wise to indicate I might have stripped threads or broken any plugs by over torquing so I'm just going to leave them alone at 13 lb-ft with no anti-sieze.
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#14 |
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Moderator
2006
RTL
Redrock Pearl / Beige Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cincinnati OH
Posts: 5,657
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
Just curious... Why are folks replacing spark plugs?
__________________
2006 RTL w/o Navi & 2007 RTX http://s101.photobucket.com/albums/m69/HondaRidgeline/ |
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#15 |
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Moderator
2008
RTS
Billet Silver Metallic Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: High Point, NC
Posts: 14,091
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
I assume because it's time... part of the -4 service. No?
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#16 |
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ROC Rank: 1k Comma Club
2008
RTL
Steel Blue Metallic Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: renton, wa
Posts: 1,062
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
Oops, didn't realize spark plugs were permanent.......................
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#17 |
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ROC Rank: Freshman
2006
RTL
Sterling Gray Metallic Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
In my case I bought my Ridgeline with 115k miles and the dealer the previous owner used had no record of any major services. Sing done. Oil changes but no 105k service. I had the timing belt done last month at about 116k miles since I had no record of this service being done and I am not that talented of a mechanic. I decided to do the plugs myself to save some cash and with all the great instruction found here it seemed pretty doable and it was actually very easy. I am still undecided on the valve service that should have been done but probably will bite the bullet and have it done when I have the cash.
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#18 |
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ROC Rank: Freshman
2006
RTL
Sterling Gray Metallic Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 42
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
thought some folks might be interested in what the old plugs looked like, not sure if the condition of the plugs is good or bad or if anything relating to the need of the valve adjustment is evident....
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#19 |
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ROC Rank: Freshman
2006
RTL
Billet Silver Metallic Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San diego,ca
Posts: 76
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
Just throwing this out there.... But unlike metals like to bond together even with some special coatings ie NGK plugs. Ive learned from experience to put a small coating over all plugs I install, not globs of the stuff but just enough to put a fine coat on the threads. Countless times have i worked on import motors and some deomestics where they used different kinds of plugs and a few of the plugs were stuck in the heads. Thankfully I have only had to redo threads on one supra head cause the previous person who worked on it put them in dry. And i have never torqued the plugs but doing it for so long Ive learned to crush the crush washer on the plug then do 1/4 turn after that. Not once have i had an issue with plugs breaking/coming out.
To me i think its good piece of mind knowing when you take them out thousands of miles later, they will come out no problem. |
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#20 |
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ROC Rank: 5k Comma Club
2006
RTL
Billet Silver / Gray Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: 70 Square Miles Surrounded by Reality
Posts: 5,552
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Re: spark plug replacement - anti-sieze?
One of the reasons I replaced my plugs was I was about 15k miles over 100k. The stock NGK plugs are rated to go a 100k. I figured it was about time to replace them.
Also, I plan on doing the timing belt service here soon. My dealership will be doing the work for me (oddly enough, the estimate they gave me was one of the lowest of the 7-8 shops I got estimates from) and they recommended doing the plugs also; at a rate of $220. $120 for the plugs and $100 for the installation. I have replaced plugs numerous times on quite a few vehicles, so I figured I would try and save myself a few $'s on the timing belt service, by doing it myself. I found the plugs on line (RockAuto.com) for under $10 a piece. Shipped to my door, it was less than $63. Took me about an hour. I could do another spark plug replacement on my RL in about 1/2 that time now that I have done it once. Pretty easy and it is suprising the amount of room you have to work with. Anyway, when it was all said and done, I figured I saved myself over $130. Piece of advice, if you decide to do it yourself, make sure you have either a 5" deep sparkplug socket, or a couple of short extensions for your ratchet...it will make your life mucho easier. Finally, I went by the advice of NGK and Honda and did not put anti-sieze on the plugs (as they had the shiny/silver coating on the threads) and torqued them to 13 foot lbs. I guess time will tell if I did the right things....of course, by the time the plugs need to replaced, I probably won't be the owner. I'll have sold it/traded it by them.
__________________
Golf and Sex - Two things you don't have to be good at to enjoy. RTL w/Nav and Sunroof, Running boards, Bug deflector, Retrax Tonneau Cover, OEM Hitch, Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror, Weathertech Floor Mats, OEM Foglights w/Painted Bezels, OEM Side Door Protectors, '10 Pilot Touring Wheels, Kumho Road Venture KL61 Tires (New in Oct. 2012.), and Figs Hood Prop Kit. |
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