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Check Engine Light?

29K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  psiclist 
#1 ·
Sorry if this is a duplicate. I searched but found no post on this. Anyway, my yellow engine shaped "malfunction indicator lamp" came on recently. It stays on. I disconnected the battery and after reconnecting it still stays on. The manual says it has to do with emissions. My last car, an Escort had that light come on and I never did anything about it. It was on for years until I sold the car. Do I need to worry about this or race down to the Mechanic? I replaced the battery a couple of weeks before it came on the first time. Any ideas? thanks!
 
#2 ·
You can go to most any auto parts store and have them read the engine codes for you then decide from there what you want to do.
 
#3 ·
Yeah, check engine could be over 30 different things, simple issues or major issues. A scanner to read the codes is a good start. Sometimes you need to disconnect the battery for over a minute to clear the code, and if it does, it has some good chances to show up just miles after you reset it.
 
#4 · (Edited)
When you get the code, write it down, tell it to us.

What you driving...Where are you ? If you're in Canada you may want to just BUY a code reader since there aren't many places that do it for free.

Now that you've disconnected the battery you should probably redo your idle learn procedure, or your mileage may go down the toilet, but then again, it may get better.

:act018:
 
#5 ·
Thanks for all the replies. I did go to an auto parts store. Got the reader and it said "knock sensor circuit 1 bank 1" not necessarily in that order. The guy there knew what it was, and I got the new part. Now, where does it go? He said it is on the engine somewhere. And easy to replace. Just screw it in. The number 1 implies to me that there are more than one sensor, and more than one place that they go. Is there a manual or diagram online that will tell me where to find the one that needs to be replaced? Again, THANKS!
 
#9 · (Edited)
Ugh. It bugs me when these minimum-wage cashiers read a keyword off a scan tool and sell people a part then refuse to refund it if it doesn't fix the problem. It's extremely rare that a knock sensor would be bad. It has no moving parts to wear out and is not exposed to engine fluids. It's essentially a microphone that listens to frequencies that are associated with detonation (pinging, knocking). If this is the correct code description, notice the definition is knock sensor circuit, not knock sensor. Although it's possible it's the sensor itself, I would suspect a wiring issue before I would suspect the sensor. You can "rent" access to the Honda or aftermarket service manuals or you can purchase the read thing through Helm. It might would have already paid for itself by the time you get done spending hours throwing parts at this issue. :)

Edit: Here is a thread you might be interested in.
 
#11 ·
I was afraid of that interpretation code, it usually could mean extra different things, the guy at the counter just took the number and assume the first thing on the screen was the cause. With the code number someone here can give you a better idea of what part is needed and like other posts here mentioned if you change it and it does not fix it, you can't return it, I hope it did not cost too much.
 
#13 ·
Did you see my previous post with the link to another thread discussing a knock sensor issue? Googling "Honda P0325" reveals a few results where people had rats chew through wiring running to the knock sensor. The soy-based insulation must taste good. :)
 
#14 ·
I posted that before looking at the link. I am sure that is the problem, as I have had lots of problems with pack rats. I have never seen them in the Ridgeline, though. I keep it in the garage with traps in there. I'm going to try to do it myself following the pics in the other thread. I can always have it towed to my mechanic. (flatbed, of course) lol
 
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