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Finally eD sq-10 behind the seat install completed *pics and box comparison shots*

138K views 395 replies 70 participants last post by  mike4100 
#1 ·
Finally did it. I designed the Box on eD's site. After reading over ChrisM's therad over and over I knew I couldnt re dup this box. I totally understand what chris meant by having to router out the back of the box If u look at the back of the stock box there is a slanted router'd out section for a cross brace. What I did to counteract that was flush mouunt the sub. Which worked out perfectly. after getting the seat back in I have a good 2-maybe 3 inches of clearence between the back of the seat and the sub even at full blast and full gain the sub doesnt hit the back of the seat. Its not a god awakening boom. but its light years better then the stock system.

its .34 cubic feet and I placed about 1.5 lbs of pillow stuffing in there to help it a tad. I dont work for eD they didnt pay me to do this. I figure if u gusy wanna replace the stock sub with something bigger and keep the underneath of ur back seat free for what u bought the truck for ( storage) then here u go



 
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#5 ·
Ouch, the quality of the box is so sound and sturdy. after I bolted down the back seat I tried like hell to fit my fingers to check clearence. after all said and done it looks closer to 1.5-2inches now with everything tight. there is a bar that goes across the face of the sub just above the seat belt ends that is what is pressing the box up to teh back wall. that coup[led with flush mounting the sub is what gives u the room
 
#8 ·
see sig :)


i have a pioneer avic z1

im using a eD nine 4 in 3 ch mode. 2 channels to the front components and 1 ch bridged to the sub.

to me it sounds great. i didnt want alot of attention drawing boom. Plus My 2 yr old sits back there. it works for me

I use the exact dimensions of the stock box.

5.5 on bottom 4 inch on top 19.5 inch wide 11 inch high
 
#10 ·
so I really got to play with this sub and some settings for hte last hr. I was wrong in my previous post. this thing really hits hard. for such a small box and a flat sub this thing tingles that spine. it made me miss the old days when I really was into car audio. this thing was worth every penny
 
#11 ·
Glad to hear you got your box together. I agree that it does hit pretty hard. I hooked mine up to 500 sub amp in the house before I put it in the RL. I have to say I was pretty impressed despite the diminuitive size of the box. I run it only on the head unit amp in the truck but that is plenty for me. I don't even have the gain on the amp turned all the way up.
 
#17 ·
Great job on the enclosure!
Hey everyone, I am new to ROC and am amazed by all of the usefull information on this site:D I was going to attempt the sub installation on my 07 RTL but am somewhat embarrassed to say, I can't figure out how to remove the rear seat assembly:confused: Can someone help me out here? Thanks in advance!!!
 
#19 ·
If you are saying just remove the rear seat, it's not that difficult, but does take two guys. Do a search for rear seat removal and there are posts here with pictures, there are about 8 bolts and some trim you have to remove and then just lift it out. If you pop off the trim at the bottom of the seat you can see the bolts and should be pretty self explanatory.
 
#18 ·
Get the shop manual. It's not a simple procedure.
 
#20 ·
One reasonably fit person can do it. The seat is sturdy and has some weight. I did my work in the RL be removing the seat from its mounting but did not remove it from the vehicle. If you want to remove it from the vehicle a second person will make it much easier to carry.
 
#22 ·
sorry to those of u who have pm'ed me about this over the last few months


work has been busy
 
#23 ·
hey guys...

i know this thread is wicked old, but just wondering if anyone else has hooked up with elemental designs & did this sub install. i like it & the price is definetly right. let me know & reviews would be great.

thanx
david
 
#25 · (Edited)
Yeah, I basically followed typesfanatik's lead and had the box made by eD as well. I used his measurement's which are listed earlier in the thread. Also ordered some custom MDF spacer rings for my doors. Ended up submitting the measurements via eD's website and then talking with Chris over at eD via phone.

All in all I am very pleased and the price was the best deal of anything I've put in this truck. Only downside was that it took them quite awhile to make the box and ship it. I think they were in the middle of upgrading their shop and so it was a crazy time for them. But I always got someone pleasant on the phone and in the end I am very happy.

Of note: if I totally crank the sub amp to the point of distorting (way too much bass for me, the system, and maybe the sub) the speaker will hit the rear seat metal cross brace. But even playing it very hard and loud proportional to the rest of the system there are no problems and it does not hit.

I've been meaning to do a whole thread on my install, which involved gutting the interior for RAAMatt, etc. but I haven't had the time. Here is a pict of the sub and amps with the seat out.

-Matt
 

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#26 ·
What's the all black amp, a PowerBass?
 
#27 · (Edited)
It's a Focal's relatively new FP4.75 that I'm trying out.

http://www.focal-power.com/products/fp475.htm

Very clean, warm, and it's under-rated so it's enough power...

But something was/is up with one of the rear channels. It would go dead but if I faded/balanced to that speaker only, it would be faint and distorted. I could crank a test tone though that channel and "un-stick" that channel then everything was ok for awhile. The amp went back to Focal-America twice, they pushed it hard on a bench and never found a problem, but the problem was when it WASN'T playing hard. Thought it might be a speaker issue, but I blew out one of the rear coaxials before I got around to taking the doors apart--again. Now I am just sick of it and sick of taking my truck apart. So I live without the nice fill from the rear speakers. It really bugs me too because I am pretty tech-savvy, but I just don't have the time/energy to keep taking the truck apart chasing ghosts. (Of course I've metered everything and tested wires, swapped channels, etc.) The lesson here, go with something cheaper and easier to deal with swapping/replacing. JL, Eclipse, something more accessible on the market.
 
#29 ·
Thanks, I took pictures of almost everything, every step of the way, and I want to do a thread on this install when I get some time... just too darn busy.

-Matt
 
#30 ·
So I just posted this in a related topic, but seemed more relavant here so sorry for reposting (of sorts).
I was curious if anyone had tried the sub box built by eD. It appears some have. In a previous post I read that the sub hits when at full gain... if i had eD build the box to typefanatics specs but had it flush mounted, would that eliminate the hitting?
Specs being: 5.5 on bottom 4 inch on top 19.5 inch wide 11 inch high

Also, does carpet or anything need to be removed when using a box of this size?

Thanks for the help!
 
#31 ·
...I was curious if anyone had tried the sub box built by eD. It appears some have. In a previous post I read that the sub hits when at full gain... if i had eD build the box to typefanatics specs but had it flush mounted, would that eliminate the hitting?
The typesfanatik version is what I have (I just had eD paint mine), and this version IS flush mounted.

I wouldn't worry about it hitting the cross brace of the seat. At an uncomfortable level of bass, I mean hurts to listen to, mine doesn't hit. I could only make it hit when I pushed it just messing around to see what it could do while I was doing the initial tuning. Also I probably could have bought myself another 1/4" of room if I had not run my wires behind it, but rather over it. I opted for the "cleaner install" and don't regret it after 6+ months.

Also, does carpet or anything need to be removed when using a box of this size?
Yes, I cut a little bit of carpet out below the sub and I cut the padded liner/sound absorber (the black "padding") from behind the sub. All easy with a sharp utility knife.

Hope this helps,
Matt
 
#32 ·
Thanks for the info!
Regarding the removal of the sound deadener from the rear cab etc. I would have thought sound deadener would be necessary? Do you notice any issues with no deadener present?

Also, for those who have the SQ10 - how are the lows? Obviously with it being a 10 I am not expecting anything subsonic, but in general how is it?
 
#33 ·
Regarding the removal of the sound deadener from the rear cab etc. I would have thought sound deadener would be necessary? Do you notice any issues with no deadener present?
Many have taken the sound deadener out all together. A layer of RAAMmat or DynaMat will do more then the stock blanket and it's a heck of a lot thinner. I have a good solid layer of RAAMmat on the back wall so I wasn't worried about it. But I wouldn't sweat it if you are only taking a chunk out for the sub. If you are still concerned, maybe just put a square of DynaMat in that area?

Also, for those who have the SQ10 - how are the lows? Obviously with it being a 10 I am not expecting anything subsonic, but in general how is it?
I'm really happy with it, especially considering it's a 10-inch, low-profile, and in a low-volume box. It's not going to win any drag contests, but it delivers more then expected and for such a great price!

-Matt
 
#34 ·
So, has anyone done this lately? I love the idea of keeping the interior intact and having the sub hidden.

I am not amping the speakers, only adding a sub. Would ONE of these be OK with the Nine.2? They recommend using that to run two subs...but they also say this thing handles up to 500RMS and the Nine.2 is rated at 1x400 @ 4Ohm.

Looks like the easiest thing is to use the stock wiring through an LOC for an amp input. My question is, how do you wire an LOC with 2 channels of input (they usually come with left and right inputs, +/-) into a signal with only one channel (the stock sub signal which is only +/-)?

Also, how are you guys mounting the amp mounting base (looks like wood) to the truck? You drilling into the rear of the cab??
 
#35 ·
Most sub amps have L+R inputs and sum them inside.

I screwed the amp boards into the bulkhead supports.
 
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