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Bazooka 6" powered sub question

5K views 36 replies 10 participants last post by  gooch12 
#1 ·
I think I know the answer to this but just want to verify it.
My research has indicated that the Bazooka BTA6100 will fit behind the back seat. Is this correct?
I assume that I'll have to remove the factory sub and run a dedicated power wire. But I should be able to tap into the factory sub speaker wires to drive the amp/sub, correct? Will I need a line level adapter or does the tube have, as I think it does, line level input capabilities?
Also, I have been unable to find any photos of this install/mod. Can anyone direct me to what one looks like installe in an RL?

Thanks
Dave
 
#2 · (Edited)
Just use the leads from the existing factory sub, you will have to cut the connector or slice the insulation and solder extra wire to connect it to the bazooka, the bazooka has its own line output converter and amp. All you need is the the power wire and ground.

If you installed an aftermarket HU then RCA cables Bro.


http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=108491&postcount=1
 
#4 ·
Thanks laserguy, that confirms what I thought and was exactly what I wanted to know. At this point I don't intend to swap the factory HU out so I'll need the line level inputs. I appriciate the links to the photos as well.
I've been doing my own system installs since the early '70's and even did it professionally for a while in '77. Things have changed a lot since my first install but that experience and a degree in electronics (that I don't use anymore) means there's not a lot I won't tackle in my vehicles...
Thanks again for the conformation and links.
 
#5 ·
Wow I feel a bit younger for a change, just a few years ha ha.
As far as just installs, things are probably easier now or have not changed much maybe just a few extra wires, some of the issues are the many options, audio adjustments and settings. But it's always fun.
 
#6 ·
The link provided by laserguy correctly shows where to install the BTA6100 behind the rear seat. It does not fit where the factory sub was installed. It has to be installed behind the rear seat on the driver's side, not the passenger side where the factory sub goes.

It's a very snug fit. I had to cut away some of the fibrous sound dampening material so that the Bazooka could get as close as possible to the rear wall. Otherwise, I could not get the seat completely into position to re-install its bolts.

The only difficult part about installing the BTA6100 was removing the rear seat. It's too cumbersome and heavy for one person but I did it anyway. If I ever remove it again, I will enlist a helper.
 
#14 · (Edited)
The only difficult part about installing the BTA6100 was removing the rear seat. It's too cumbersome and heavy for one person but I did it anyway. If I ever remove it again, I will enlist a helper.
Oh come on now. I took mine out and put it in alone. it wasn't that hard. Once you break the top press in bars loose it of the plastic pieces comes out easy. :act060:
 
#7 ·
I just installed the 6" tube a couple of weeks ago. As mentioned it does fit behind the rear seat (driver side) about four-six inches from the door, after you cut out some of the insulation. I found it easy to just lift the seat and move it forward against the back of the front seats. No need to remove it and easily a one man job. Be sure to add the remote volume control as volume adjustments to the tube are difficult with the seat installed.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=532751&postcount=11
 
#9 ·
Be sure to add the remote volume control as volume adjustments to the tube are difficult with the seat installed.
I agree. I installed mine without it at first but I decided to install it later.
 
#8 ·
Thanks for the tip about the volume control. I'd been debating if it was worth getting.
 
#10 ·
Where are y'all mounting the remote volume? I hate having stuff hanging from the dash so I'd prefer it out of sight yet still accessable.
 
#18 ·
I simply left mine under the rear seat near the subwoofer. I don't need to adjust it very often. However, I wanted to adjust it after completely re-installing the rear seats so that I was adjusting what it would really sound like. Having adjusted it, I just stuffed it back under the seat where I could reach it if I ever need it again.
 
#11 ·
Just for clarification so I don't point anyone else in the wrong direction - there is no way the Bazooka fits in the stock sub location? I thought I had read a few members saying they put it there. I do remember seeing pics of it mounted where gooch is saying behind the driver's side rear seat.
 
#16 ·
I tried to install it where the stock subwoofer had been. It simply does not fit there. No way.
 
#12 ·
FWIW, I don't personally care that it does not go in the exact same spot as the stock sub. As long as it will fit behind the rear seat back and not take up any cabin space, including under the seats, I'm good with it!
Besides, from what I've read, this particular Bazoka tube works best mounted like the ones in the link. Something about corner loading which I have a vague grasp of but no detailed info. Maybe I'll do a bit of research to confirm my thoughts...
Thanks for everyones help!
 
#13 ·
Works for me! I just didn't want to give false info to anyone going forward. I always thought it fit in the stock location. While you're in there and removing some of the rear insulation material, it might not be a bad idea to add some sound deadening material on the back wall and corner to avoid any close-proximity rattles. Should help a bit on the corner-loading idea, too.
 
#15 ·
To install the bazooka back there the whole seat needs come out, there is a simple way to just remove back support part, maybe doing it in two steps may be easier and way less heavier than removing the whole seat in one piece, just need to remove 3 extra bolts, that way stripping the threads from the bottom part will be avoided since that has been an issue for some members before.
 
#17 ·
Regarding the difficulty of removing and re-installing the rear seat:

It was the removal of the seat back that was difficult, not the two seat bases that flip up and down with the pulleys. I think I have typical physical strength for a healthy active man over 200 pounds. It was NOT easy.

Perhaps there is a trick that makes it easier. However, I have removed and replaced the seat twice and it didn't get easier the second time even though I was more familiar with it.
 
#21 ·
I guess, I just based my suggestion on the pictures I saw, to me the bazooka looked fat and the whole seat needed to be removed. If only the top part can be removed as Heli said then great. I removed it and the space was tight to me. :act035:
 
#22 ·
Sorry if I misled anyone, with the rear seats up I unbolted them and moved them forward so I could install the sub. So it was the complete seat I removed and moved it forward without having to remove it from the truck.
 
#23 ·
I am in the process of changing my speakers, the tweeters are on their way out and being replaced by JBL GTO18T, and the door speakers are being replaced by JBL GTO628. I’m debating on either build a box to replace the stock subwoofer and do like a few of the guys that have installed a 6” bazooka.
I am sure that there is somebody out there that would give me the pro’s and cons about either. I’ve looked at some of the pictures of the so call “Ed box”, but could not see any port, why is that….not required? And I have most of the tools to try to fabricate one On the other hand the 6” Bazooka is ported and amplified, and already built!
If I was to build my own “Ed box”, would I have to get an amp to power it or would it be powered by the factory HU? The replacement of factory speaker is all new to me ever since I read the “Pimp your factory sound in 15 minutes”, and want to do the right thing without going over the financial cliff.
It’s a probably a matter of personal choice, but I just need to know how to determine my choices.
 
#25 ·
The Bazooka BTA6100 fits behind the factory-provided trim below and behind the rear seat on the driver's side. With the sub installed and everything reassembled, you can't even see that the sub is installed. It does not intrude into the under-seat storage space. That's the biggest reason that I decided to install it.

I assume that you are referring to this Honda storage system: http://automobiles.honda.com/ridgeline/accessory-detail.aspx?Accessory=RIDGE13045
I don't have that accessory but I believe that installing the Bazooka would not affect the fit of the storage accessory. I do have the Honda cargo tray that fits in the same place under the seats and the Bazooka does not impede it.
 
#27 ·
I don't have a Sport, so I can't be 100% sure. However, I think the only difference behind the rear seat is whether there is a subwoofer in the cavity on the passenger side. I completely removed the factory subwoofer from behind the seat and now there is empty space there.

I routed the Bazooka cable bundle under the door sill trim along the passenger side and then behind the glove box. The glove box and the dashboard trim around the instrument panel and head unit are very easy to remove and re-install. You'll find instructions in various threads on this forum.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Looking at the 250w version, seems to be same size as 100w. Not much more via amazon.

Any idea what I would need to buy with either version to wire it and prolly have to mount it to since no factory in there to replace? Saw something about the vol control or such? I'm putting a pioneer HU in and didn't know if that could control it?
 
#29 ·
I used the FAST-9999 wiring harness () and the FAST-BTAH extension cable bundle (). The sub comes with mounting hardware and straps but I didn't use any of that because the fit is so snug behind the seat that it does not move at all.

Eventually, I added the wired remote volume control knob () because it was almost impossible to reach the built-in knob after reinstalling the seat and trim pieces.

The Bazooka works well with my Pioneer head unit.

The 250W units look like they are the same size as the BTA6100, so they should fit the same.
 
#31 ·
I think the idea is that the lower power consumption of the 100W model can be supplied from the same circuit as the head unit. However, the units that draw more power must be provided their own fuse-protected power circuit. Therefore, Bazooka does not want you to use the FAST-9999 universal for the higher-powered models. If you use one of those models, you will have to provide power and signal wires like you would with any similarly powered amplifier. Various vendors supply wiring kits for that purpose.
 
#32 ·
Is there somebody out there that would give me the pro’s and cons about getting a 6" bazooka and a homemade . I’ve looked at some of the pictures of the so call “Ed box”, but could not see any port, why is that….not required? And I have most of the tools to try to fabricate one. On the other hand the 6” Bazooka is ported and amplified, and already built! I like bass but NOTHING like I hear...I want a thump not a boing!
(question repeated from post above, sorry guys I just want some info)
 
#33 ·
Pros of the Bazooka - 1. All-in-one package (amp, sub and enclosure). 2. Relatively easy connections and installation. 3. Competitive price.

Cons of the Bazooka - 1. Need to completely remove the rear seat to install it. 2. Only being a 6" driver, it will not hit the deeper bass notes that a larger sub would.

Pros of a shallow 10" sub with the eD-style enclosure - 1. Easy to build, but some skill is required. 2. Will hit the lower frequencies that the Bazooka typically can't. 3. Only need to remove the rear seat back to install rather than the entire seat.

Cons - 1. Typically more expensive in general depending on the sub you get. 2. DOES require a separate amp to drive the sub (cannot be driven off the head unit, hence the more expensive part). 3. Slightly more difficult to install and tune.

The eD enclosure does not have a port because it's a sealed enclosure. Ported enclosures typically are larger than sealed ones and there is simply not enough space behind the seat to fit a ported enclosure. Ported enclosures are not always better. They are much less forgiving as far as design than sealed enclosures. They are typically able to play marginally louder given an equal amount of power, but sealed enclosures tend to be much more punchy and precise. The Bazooka can give you a night and day improvement over the stock subwoofer system, but a 10" shallow sub with separate amp has the ability to give you more power and sound. If you're really wanting a lot of bass, the way to go about that is to do a regular 10" or dual 10" subs under the rear seats with a separate amp. You can build the enclosure(s) larger and can achieve better results than with a 10" shallow behind the seat with a small enclosure.
 
#37 · (Edited)
It sounds much better than the stock sub. That makes sense when you compare them. The Bazooka is much bigger and heavier and its built-in amplifier supplies more power to the driver than the factory head unit supplies to the stock sub.

A larger, more power subwoofer than the Bazooka BTA6100 would certainly sound even better but then it would not fit behind the rear seat. That's what Rickman meant when he said "it's outta sight outta mind like the OEM sub".
 
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