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Head Unit Replacement Confusion

7K views 53 replies 5 participants last post by  amccone 
#1 ·
I am replacing my HU with a JVC KW-AV60 and leaving everything else alone speaker wise. Aside from some add ons that I want like Blue Tooth, Steering Wheel Control (Axxess ASWC), SiriusXM (SiriusXM SXV200V1 (SXV200 v1) ) And iPhone adapter (JVC KS-U30) I want to be able to use my existing Sub, for a while anyway. I know it sucks but $'s are an issue.

I bought an Amp to power the sub (Dual XPE2700 400 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier) and am wondering if......

1) Is that decent enough for the Factory Sub?
2) What do I need aside from the Amp like capacitors, etc?
3) How many OHMs is the sub?

TIA for any input. Sorry if this has been covered. I havent seen a specific answer to my questions in any other Threads.
 
#2 ·
Take this for what it's costing you :)

That amp is MORE than enough. The stock radio only puts out like 30A I think so, if anything, you will have to be very careful not to blow the stock sub.

You will need a wiring kit for the sub (power wire, ground wire - 4Ga should be enough for both, a fuse and holder for the power line, connectors to hook the power and ground wire up, input wiring and output wiring to the sub - exactly what and how much will depend on where you want to mount the amp and what kind of signal will go to it). Personally, I would not use a capacitor for that amp.
Not really able to find anything definitive on the factory sub impeadance but, if I had to guess, I'd guess 4 ohms.

Just as an aside, I don't know what you spent on that amp but the Bazooka 6" powered tube is only a couple hundred dollars and is susposed to be a vast improvement over the factory and fits behind the rear seat back. Since you are probably going to have to pull the seat back to wire in the new amp anyway it might be a good option for you.
 
#3 · (Edited)
It will be safe as far as ohms, the factory sub is either a 4 or 6 ohm load.

You just need to make sure you set the HU 's LP above 85 Hz, sub volume not higher than 3 on the HUs sub menu (assuming it goes from 1-8 like mine) same for the amps LP set with the freq dial set at 1-2 o'clock maybe start with 4 oclock position just to be safe. Bass boost switch to off. Then start setting your voltage gains from the minimum and try it at 7 o'clock pos first, play a loud cd with a lot of bass, at volume 10 on the Hu, increase volume. if you hear a pop, turn volume down inmediately a a bit, or compare the radio volume to the cd volume, cd should be about the same or not that much higher in volume than the radio. Just be sure the voltage gains dial is near minimum, and cd volume is not much higher than radio. If you follow those steps you will reduce the chance of damaging the sub since the sub only handles about 40 watts. Be careful, there are no guarantees you may not damage the sub.

The amp takes 10 gauge power wire, you will need a 40 -50 amp fuse for that gauge or even if you use 8 gauge
 
#4 ·
DaveG55 Thanks!!!
I realy wanted to do the Bazooka but I am at the end of my budget so at least for now I need to stick with this plan. I was guessing 4 ohms. I think I dont have a choice in where the amp will go but worried about heat. If there is insulation behind the seat I suppose I will have to remove enough to allow for air flow. The amp was $55 at Walmart. The rest is coming from Sonic Electronix. The whole deal is costing me about $450.00. Really didnt want to do this but lost my lights to the stock HU which is very annoying and a lot of others have that issue here it seems.
 
#5 ·
laserguy...Thank you for the reply!!! I appreciate the settings info. That is fantastic stuff and I really needed that too!! I am not very savy at sub amp stuff. Never got in that far before. Reading all about them, I am a bit paranoid of them. There is a blue wire that will need to be connected I believe to power on and off the amp correct? And should I run the sub speaker wire from the amp back up to the front or splice into the existing wire coming out of the sub behind the seat?
 
#6 ·
Sure, glad the info helps.

That jvc HU if you look at the manual it has it's own remote wire to turn the amp. You need to just add a new 16-18 gauge single wire from the HU to the amps remote power input.

For the sub it is better to run new speaker wire from the amp. It is simpler specially if you install it in the back or even under a front seat.

You only run wire to the harness behind th HU if you amplify the the door speakers and plan to use the factory speaker wire.

Make sure your HU, external hd or xm radio is using a new ground, the one on the left side of the glove box once removed. Also the antenna adapter blue wire, connect it to pin 2 on factory harness (red yellow wire) otherwise you will have poor reception and unwanted noise.
 
#8 ·
What ever you do, DON'T CROSS THE BLUE AND RED WIRES! You'll activate the trucks self destruct and it'll blow up. Seriously.

You can put the amp behind the rear seat without any problems. There are two vents on the back firewall that will release any heat built up. You might not even have to cut any insulation for the amp you picked.
 
#9 ·
Laserguy...yep I figured that so cutting near the speaker would save a little so I dont have to run speaker wire all the way back to the HU area to connect the sub. On the other hand I have to run the other wires back up there so WTHeck right? May as well take all the wires back to the front and cut the speaker wire there going back to the sub.

If you come up with anything more let me know.

I did look at the manual which is a little tricky to download from JVC but now that I found it I am also not sure I can have full function of my iPhone and Bluetooth at the same time. Looks like the audio from the Bluetooth goes in to the RCA jacks that the iPhone would use but the iPhone would use the video input. Im sooooo confused. LOL Hate that there is nothing showing that one can use both without losing some kind of functionality. But that is a different issue Im not that worried about.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Up to you if you want to waste wire going all the way to the HU to the sub when the amp will be 2 feet away from the sub.

I'm not familiar with external blue tooth devices, mine mine is internal in the HU i need to check if it allows me to check other functions on my phone while on a call, it should.
For the amp, there are some metal sections where you could screw wood without drilling all the way, avoid drilling all the way. Or use glue or velcro to place some wood on the wall then screw the amp there, there is a lot room and option if you are willing to remove the factory black cover
 

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#10 ·
tpevehouse.....That is a good thing to remember. No self destruct wanted here. LOL Do I screw the mounts into the back wall or would that be bad as it would go through the wall and out the back? Exposing it to the elements? Maybe they would self seal?
 
#13 ·
I sunk 2 screw through the back firewall. I haven't noticed any leaks and there is dynamat on both sides of the firewall when I screwed through it.
 
#16 ·
In some cases you can just ground the wire to the frame to clear the parking break lock. There are lots of notches and holes that you can bolt to on the glove box frame. Works great. Some HUs need a relay you can buy at any Radio shack. The relay cycles the power on, then off to trick the HU into thinking the parking break is on. I've been told that some HUs have been made to where they actually need a switch because they have to be cycled several times to work around the relay everyone uses. I haven't actually seen any of those HUs though. Work them down one by one and see which one works. There are lots of videos that explain how to do them.

If it helps, I don't know anyone that hasn't worked around the parking lock.
 
#19 ·
I just had to ground my HU. You'll have to work them done one by one starting with the easiest. Hold the exposed ground wire to the glovebox frame and play a DVD. if it works then there you go, If not you need a small four pin relay.
 
#20 ·
Got all my stuff today!!! WOOHOOO!! Still have to wait till Saturday to install it. I'm freaking excited but apparently in this house I'm the only one. I know youALL know what I mean. As Flounder said in Animal House, " Oh boy is this gunna be GREAT!!!!". LOL
 
#22 ·
take it slow and make sure all you're connections are right. I had a short from when I did the sail tweeters that took a few hours to track down. I shrink wrapped and soldered all my connections after that that weren't done.
 
#23 ·
Don't forget to post a shot of your rear wall and amp installed, many guys just get caught in the excitement to get it finished and do not take at least a couple of shots. Also the HU installed, that is nice HU, I am considering getting one of those. Mine has the HP that controls front and back and yours can separate the HP setting for front and back.
 
#24 ·
Well spent most of the day trying to figure where to mount the amp. Finally decided bottom left back wall. Cut out the black back cover to get it to fit. (Pictures to come). Had a heck of a time getting the thing screwed in. Had to go to the hardware store to by a long 1/8" bit. Broke the damn bit after one hole. Got a second one and took it easy. Because of the spot I put it I only got three of four screws in. That's ok. It's solid in. :) ran my power, grounded it, wired the speaker wire, and the power on/off wire. Tomorrow routing the input from the HU. Made sure the seat still fit and it does. Tried to test the amp but nothing came on. I'm hoping that's due to not having it hooked up to the HU yet. Good night.
 
#26 ·
Well right or left is described correctly depending on wether you face the front or back of it :act035:

That is why some of us say, the driver's side or the passenger's side, front or back, he he.

When you said nothing came on you meant, sound ? or just the amp did not turn on? Or HU did not turn on?

Make sure the RCA's are connected to the HU subs output, some of those cables are directional and manufacturers do a horrible job describing that.

Before you try some music on, go to the HU audio menu, scroll to subwoofer select, scroll to sub's volume, LP and phase (try 180 deg phase) , set the sub amp settings I described on the previous page.
 
#27 ·
So that's why I'm a freshman. Hehe. Mounted on the driver side bottom corner. Any way that's all I have so far. Nothing came on. I expected to see the LED at least light up. In a fault state at least. No HU yet. Just power. I grounded the unit on what looks like an existing ground for something maybe the rear window slider motor? Just guessing. Today should SHOULD go much better but I'm happy with what I got done so far. I'll be working in a more familiar area. :act024:
 
#28 ·
BTW...I am very impressed with what a lot of you Pros do with your ride. What I'm doing is WAY exciting for me but won't be very impressive to most ROC folks. I get that. What IS very cool is the support I've received from every one in this thread. I've seen some posts where members just flat out slam others for what they are doing or have done. So again... Thanks for not being one of "those" people.
 
#29 ·
The power cable needs to have the fuse installed close to the battery. Amps remote wire needs to be connected to a swithed power line or the aftermarket HU amps remote wire output.

Amps ground should be less than 3 feet long. Ground should be on a scrapped painted area, area that is part of a painted area, like an existing bolt, sand remove the area where the ring terminal makes contact, maybe add some conductive dialectic grease if you have some to prevent rust
 
#30 ·
I used the same ground when I put mine in. I think it is for the back window actually. You might want to make a note of that ground though. It was pointed out that the power wire for the amp can cause some interference with the RCA cables. I can only imagine that the ground wire can do the same.

The ground that you used, if your amp in oriented in the same way as mine, is right next to the RCA input for the amp. I have seen and heard no static as a result though.
 
#32 ·
tpevehouse...the RCA input is on the opposite side of the ground but thanks for the heads up. Also running the RCA wires on the passenger side while the power from the battery is on the driver side. Don't know but thinking the power cable could cause noise on the RCAs if ran together. That and space for all that under the same trim.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Everything is now installed and working fine. Im attaching pictures of some of the install as most of it has been documented already by others. I do want to give credit though to the posts I refrenced.

To remove the back seat check this (Thanks MENG)
http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38695&highlight=rear+seat+remove

Routing the Sub Woofer wires check this (Posted by Razorback92)

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=45100&highlight=Soulbender

And a refrence to the wireing harnes of the RL Thanks Laserguy. Needed that for the remote controll Steering wheel hookup. Two wires needed that are not part of the Scosche harness. WHY? IDK.

http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/showpost.php?p=488641&postcount=2
 
#35 · (Edited)
Here are some pics of mounting and the new HU Look. Im not a photographer. The picture of nothing where the HU should be is actualy what started this whole thing. The light being out on the HU. Id have rather kept it the way it was but you know now that its done...Im kind of liking it. I dont like where I put the Bluetooth Adapter so Im thinking I will move it. But if anyone is wondering it works really well. I have been told to stop yelling when I call people. :) Also the BT device accesses SIRI on my iPhone so I can thell her what songs to play. Its really pretty cool.

The AMP is at half way on the volume and the freq as well. Its fine for me. I mounted it above the flex conduit not infront of it. the picture kind of looks like the conduit is behind the AMP. And I did do wire management after the whole thing was done.

Now I am thinking the Mids in the doors are not good enough for this stereo. Kind of Muddy sounding but the tweets seem to handle the highs ok. May get some new mids.

Thanks again everyone for all your help directly or indirectly.
 

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