Honda Ridgeline Owners Club Forums banner

Do 08 or above RL have #4 cylinder issue?

6K views 35 replies 14 participants last post by  JadedSoulX 
#1 ·
Searched forum with the #4 cylinder problem. that's the main issue I concern about. Because I want to drive the rl for about more than 5 years and to across America with it.:act035:
 
#3 ·
06 - 09(early models of 09) were made in Canada and I suspect that the engines were produced there.

09 (later models) - 13 are made in Alabama - they have different V6 engine manufacturing lines.

I would suspect that all Canada built units could have the potential to have been made on the machine that did cylinder 4 wrong.
 
#6 ·
We saw then built in Alabama on the tour of the plant. From the sand casting to all the CNC work to final assembly.
 
#5 ·
I am leaning to the thought that a loose spark plug is behind the cylinder 4 failure issue.

I know the Honda Pilot has had the same problem as the RL. Has the Odyssey or the Accord V6 had any reports of this? How about in the Acura line?
 
#11 ·
The reason why it's only happened to older RL's is because it seems to take a good bit of time before this condition rears its ugly head. It could be that it has the potential to affect all RL's, Pilots, Odyssey's and even Accords. On the other hand, I changed my spark plugs in my '07 at 110k miles or so. The stock plugs weren't loose nor did they give me any trouble when taking them out. I consider myself lucky in that sense. Others have not had as much luck. The best thing to do would be to pull the coil packs and check the torque on the plugs once a year. When I initially put my new set in, I did not use an actual torque wrench and tightened them by hand. About 10k miles later after not feeling good about not using the wrench, I checked them all. To my near horror, two of the front were hand tight and the rest were not very tight. I made sure to tighten them all to the recommended 13 lb./ft. and plan to check them all again in the spring.
 
#23 ·
This might of been covered in a different posts, but I didnt see it right away. How does the spark plug coming loose effect the cylinder? I cant see how it could do any more harm than pulling out the threads. I cant see how a loose plug could do any damage to the valves, piston, or cylinder bore. Unless part of the plug breaks off. Anyway, this has been bothering me. I am the type that needs a logical explanation in my brain before I am a believer.
 
#15 ·
From what I've read. it's only been the '06 that have had the problem, and very few of them at that, but I could be wrong.

No issues yet with my '07
 
#16 ·
There have been some 07s too. IAC, not many of either. I don't recall if it has touched on the 2008s and up or not.

I keep meaning to check the torque on the Pilot and the RL but seem to always find reasons to put it off.
 
#17 ·
With the right tools, it takes about 15 minutes. At your next oil change, give it a shot. You're under the hood anyways...
 
#18 ·
Hah. 15 minutes? It will take me longer than that to figure out what tools I need to get out. ;)
 
#19 ·
Haha! I know you can do it. 3/8" socket wrench, spark plug socket, torque wrench and two 6" extensions. Oh and an Allen key for the bolts on the coils.


Sent from my iPhone using AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#20 ·
Metric or SAE allen? ;)
 
#21 ·
Don't really know. I just use the one that fits. :act024:
 
#22 ·
See? Now I gotta go pull out my allens and try them to get the right size. Told you it wuz gonna take me at least 15 minutes to find the right tools. Sheesh. :D
 
#24 ·
My understanding is that the heat of combustion leaking past the loose plug destroys the plug (and parts fall inside the cylinder) and the heat will likely damage the coil pack. Although that last will be minor in the scheme of things.
 
#27 ·
Aluminum heads and too tight could = stripped spark plug threads. I do NOT wanna go there.

Just remember no anti-seize on the NGK plugs.

Very interesting that you found cylinder 5 with a relatively loose spark plug.
 
#28 ·
I know this was another post, but was there ever a decision made on the use of anti-seize for reinstalling old plugs? I was thinking someone said the original metal composition that took the place of anti-seize would degrade and was not viable for re-install. I cant seem to find that post now though.

I did NOT put anti-seize on when I put them back in.
 
#29 ·
No, I don't believe reinstalling old plugs with AS was ever resolved. I don't know if the NGKs are a use once and toss or just what.
 
#30 ·
I wouldn't use the AS on the plugs at all - new or old. And I would totally recommend using the torque wrench. As I said, I always thought "good and tight" was the rule with plugs, too. I tightened mine by hand the first time and when I checked them 10k later, they were ALL loose. I used the torque wrench and 13 lb./ft. is certainly tighter than what I did the first time. Too tight is probably just as bad as too loose, though. Use a wrench!
 
#32 ·
Now I have no excuse. Lemme think.. ;)
 
#34 ·
Umm, as a PM for what?
 
#36 ·
Your stock plugs are NGK's. The best pm you can do is check and re-torque the plugs about once a year or every other oil change and replace them when you do the timing belt service.
Ahh! I've been seeing these threads popping up and haven't been reading as thoroughly as I should have. I thought the NGK were alternate spark plugs which didn't require anti seize and were not prone to the "exploding engine" phenomena. Thanks for the info.
 
#35 ·
Your stock plugs are NGK's. The best pm you can do is check and re-torque the plugs about once a year or every other oil change and replace them when you do the timing belt service.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top