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Pop & Lock Installation

42K views 119 replies 40 participants last post by  gooch12 
#1 ·
First thing I want to say is a big THANK YOU to Joe (Pizza Man) for making the P&L group buy possible. He got us a great price, and did all the hard work....getting our orders, getting the locks shipped from the manufacturer, then mailing them out to us. Standing ovation to you, Joe! (I'm standing as I type this. :D )

I'm starting this separate thread for the Pop & Lock installation so it won't get lost in the "P&L Ordering" thread. Hopefully, folks will post their ideas and tips for the P&L install. Here are some things I encountered that might be helpful to others as they do their own installation.

1. The instructions which come with the lock (and Joe helped write) are very good. The instructions AND a very good picture of the installation are here.... http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/324217-post12.html and I've also included the pic with this post.

I printed the pic of the installed lock (the one showing the workings of the lock system inside the tailgate), and it was tremendously helpful to look at when I was installing the lock. Nice to see exactly what it's supposed to look like.

2. This post by edarnoldnet was also very helpful with the installation..... http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/...ailable-now-but-beware-poor-instructions.html Very good tips to aid with installation and supplement the instructions.

3. In step #2, be sure you read the part about exchanging the bolts holding the bracket. Be sure to note that you can exchange the bolts you take out with the bolts you'll also take out in step #6. This is clearly covered in the instructions, but I almost overlooked it. If you don't exchange the bolts, the washers on the ones you initially take out won't let the bolts fit when the new bracket is installed.

4. The drill bits recommended for the installation are unusual sizes, and I didn't have either size recommended. However, you can easily substitute drill bits that are close to the sizes recommended. Just use the holes in the bracket as your guide, and pick bits that will fit OK through those holes.

5. Biggest problem I had was re-installing the tailgate cap. Took me almost 30 minutes to get the d*mn thing back on right!! In fact, that took longer than installing the lock. Be sure to look at how the plastic cap is made, and how it fits on the white clips. It has to be positioned just to the right of the clips...so the openings in the cap fit over the clips, then it slides to the left to lock into the clips. You may need to push your hip against the middle of the cap to make sure it doesn't bow in the middle.

If anyone has any additional tips for re-installing the tailgate cap, I'm sure they'd be appreciated. I was unprepared for how big a hassle that was. At least for me.

The entire install took me about an hour and fifteen minutes, but I took my time and went slowly. And a big part of my time (20-25 minutes) was spent trying to get the tailgate cap back on. Installing the lock is actually pretty simple. It all fits together very easily. Again, having the picture (mentioned above) was very helpful. Even if you're not too mechanically inclined, you should be able to do this installation yourself.

If I can provide further info, please post on this thread or PM me. Good luck with your installation!
Tom
 

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#4 ·
Thanks for the helpful hints guys. This thread will really come in handy when I go to install mine. Yeah, I got the silver, and I noticed it has the "11-20-07" instructions and noticed it there are only 8 steps in the older instructions, as opposed to 10 in the new.

Thanks again guys.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Just finished... some of my observations and pics.... The lock is more for peace of mind... It should keep out the hitch hikers... :rolleyes:

I used some gorilla glue to lock down the front half of the tumbler assembly to the back half. I wanted to make sure that if some wants to break in they can take the whole tumbler assembly and not just the front half; leaving the main shaft still attached to the locking mechanism and operational with some pliers.
3. In step #2, be sure you read the part about exchanging the bolts holding the bracket. Be sure to note that you can exchange the bolts you take out with the bolts you'll also take out in step #6. This is clearly covered in the instructions, but I almost overlooked it. If you don't exchange the bolts, the washers on the ones you initially take out won't let the bolts fit when the new bracket is installed.... No need for mine. All bolts are identaical... all contained the washer and locking washer... Fit without any issues.

5. Biggest problem I had was re-installing the tailgate cap. Took me almost 30 minutes to get the d*mn thing back on right!! In fact, that took longer than installing the lock. Be sure to look at how the plastic cap is made, and how it fits on the white clips. It has to be positioned just to the right of the clips...so the openings in the cap fit over the clips, then it slides to the left to lock into the clips.

I lined the tailgate cap up with the tailgate down. Position the screw holes of the cap just right of the holes on tailgate backing... The cap then slides right onto the tailgate.
You may need to push your hip against the middle of the cap to make sure it doesn't bow in the middle....
If anyone has any additional tips for re-installing the tailgate cap, I'm sure they'd be appreciated. I was unprepared for how big a hassle that was. At least for me.

I had to turn the driver’s side inside clip 90 degrees as it would not catch but would come out and wedge in, making the cap not completely fit. I also did not use a rubber mallet to take it off, just used muscles and my weight..... :) ... I also did not require a rubber mallet to put the cap back on. It slides with a bit of effort. To make things even easier, don’t clean the torx screw holes; use the dirt to realign the back panel. :D
 
#9 · (Edited)
I used some gorilla glue to lock down the front half of the tumbler assembly to the back half. I wanted to make sure that if some wants to break in they can take the whole tumbler assembly and not just the front half; leaving the main shaft still attached to the locking mechanism and operational with some pliers.
Assuming that it would break the way you describe.

The main shaft is plastic, my guess would be the screw securing the Crank Link to the Tumbler shaft would strip out under that kind of stress before the lock would split apart. This would leave nothing for the pliers to grab. I'm not into destructive testing, so I'll leave those assumptions up to you. I'm satisfied knowing this lock offers more security than the lock on my Tonneau.

I agree the lock is for piece of mind, as is every other lock I own. As I said on a previous post in another Thread, a properly placed crowbar will open a Tonneau in seconds. This lock offers an additional level of security and hassle to anyone trying to get into it. It wasn't designed to replace anything at Ft. Knox.
 
#10 ·
PIZZA MAN,

I'm sorry to ask, I'm just wondering if I can still join the group buy for pop & lock? I posted on your ordering thread and asked the same question. Please let me know and the method of payment. I want a black color.

Thank you and appreciate your reply.
 
#16 ·
Give me a few days, Ridgeline08_4me. I still have about 25 more to ship this week. When I get those done, I'll put the extras I bought up for sale. The Group Buy is officially done.

On a side note, Pop & Lock is still interested in selling them to us in groups. I may do this again if there is enough interest.
 
#11 ·
Just finish installing my white Pop N Lock. Color match is very good and looks like it was straight from the factory. This thread came in real handy when I install mine. Thanks for the helpful hints and great pictures. They really made quite easy.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Biggest problem I had was re-installing the tailgate cap. Took me almost 30 minutes to get the d*mn thing back on right!! In fact, that took longer than installing the lock. Be sure to look at how the plastic cap is made, and how it fits on the white clips. It has to be positioned just to the right of the clips...so the openings in the cap fit over the clips, then it slides to the left to lock into the clips. You may need to push your hip against the middle of the cap to make sure it doesn't bow in the middle.

If anyone has any additional tips for re-installing the tailgate cap, I'm sure they'd be appreciated. I was unprepared for how big a hassle that was. At least for me.

Tom
I just got done installing my lock. It doesn't get much easier than this Pop & Lock. Thanks again Joe!

As for the tailgate cap, I tried the way the instructions say to reinstall it one time, and I can see what Tom meant. This was going to be a hassle getting all the clips locked in place. So, I took all the clips out of the tailgate and slid them in the spaces in the cap, lined the holes up and popped it right on.

Edit: I just looked in the Ridgeline service manual. It says,

" Before reinstalling the top trim, install the upper clips on the trim. Hold the trim up, and fit all the upper clips into the holes in the tailgate, then push on the trim until the clips snap into place."

Hope this helps.
 
#23 ·
I just looked in the Ridgeline service manual. It says,
" Before reinstalling the top trim, install the upper clips on the trim. Hold the trim up, and fit all the upper clips into the holes in the tailgate, then push on the trim until the clips snap into place."
I actually did mine differently, I left the click in the tailgate, then offset the trim and slid it over. Seemed to work OK for me.
That's the method ONDLINKS and I used and was also successful. Obviously either method will work. Just depends on what you find easiest.
I left the clips in the tailgate during the installation of the lock. When buttoning the tailgate up, I tried the same method the first time...Only a few clips caught. Remembering reading posts from others having trouble sliding the top trim on, per the instructions, I decided to try putting the clips on the top trim. Most of the clips fit VERY tight into the slots on the top trim and had to use a screwdriver to force some of them in place. I don't think mine would have ever been tight on all the clips by sliding it over the clips in the tailgate. This method by far was much easier for me, and is also how the Service manual describes the reinstallation of the taligate top trim.
 
#24 ·
Installed my silver Pop N Lock today and it took about 45 minutes. Install all the clips on the cap and it just snaps on very easily as was suggested. This should be part of the instructions. They should also be corrected to say hold the crank link (step 8) with a pair of needle nose pliers. The shaft is round and you can't hold it with a crescent wrench. I added a bit of grease to the parts where they rub together. Thanks to Joe for his hard work and all of those with suggestions. This is a GREAT addition to keep things secure. Eric :)
 
#26 ·
I installed my lock today and it only took about 45 minutes. It wasn't to diifficult but as many have said in this thread, the instructions are wrong in several places.

In Step 1, I have 18 clips not 16.

In Step 2, my bolts were 10mm not 6mm and they have washers on them that won't allow them to back on. I put them in the vice and pounded the screws out of the washers. This kind of messed up the threads but I was still able to use them. No big...

In Step 7, pictures on this thread we're really helpful. I believe the instructions show the piece upside down. The pictures here saved the day - really! Thanks for that.

And of course the missing instructions where you put the trim piece back on. As mentioned here - placing the 16 clips (18 in my case - I must be special) into the trim piece, closing the tail gate, sitting the trim into place making sure everything lines up and then popping it carefully with my fist. Piece of cake - this worked very easily for me. (plus I got to hit something)

Thanks everyone for your help and pictures. Thanks Pizza man for your hard work in setting this group buy up. It looks great!
 
#28 ·
Installed mine this evening-no real issues except when securing the crank link to the lock shaft--screw did not really tighten (lock shaft is plastic). Maybe I overtightened but I don't think so. It seemed to work fine but I decided to put in a slightly larger diameter screw that snugged up better.
I had an advantage with this as I had installed a Dynolock a couple years ago and have had the tailgate apart several times. The reason I wanted this lock was that I had reliability issues with the Dynolock and was lucky that it was in an unlocked state when they arose. Once, a wire connector separated where the connector was attached to the wire--I replaced and soldered all after that. More recently, it just started working intermittently. I can't find a reason so I disconnected it. The electrical actuator was showing some wear (the rubber boot on it had ripped and disintegrated).
Even for this lock, I don't trust it--I'm worried that the lock bezel will strip out where connected to the crank link. I decided to take a page from Chris Ms installation of his lock and tied a string to the end of the bolt linkage and routed the other end to the right side of the tailgate where I can snag it if the lock fails in the locked position. Then a simple pull of the string will pull the bolt linkage to the unlocked position. Maybe I'm just paranoid, but I've almost been caught twice with failing locks and this seems like good insurance. I'm not sure how you can take the tailgate apart in the closed position to override the lock.
 
#31 ·
One big concern I've had from the beginning is that you could forget the P'nL is locked and pull too hard on the handle to open the tailgate....resulting in a broken lock. Don't know if this could actually happen or not. Maybe the lock is strong enough that it would hold even under extreme pressure. But I do try to always look and see if it's locked before trying to open it. No need to apply too much pressure unnecessarily. If it doesn't open very easily, TRY THE LOCK.

Overall, I couldn't be happier with the P'n L. Looks factory made, and works great. Everyone I've shown it to thought it was OEM. Once again....thanks, Joe.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I just installed a pop & lock. And the photos were an immense help!!! Thanks so much.

Only problem I had was getting the key to turn the lock after installation. After soaking in silicone spray to loosen it up and putting the tailgate back together, I read the last sentence in step 5: "Back off the bolts if the lock doesn't turn freely..."

In the Army they used to drill it in: RTGDP! Someday I will learn.
 
#34 ·
I just installed a pop & lock. And the photos were an immense help!!! Thanks so much.

Only problem I had was getting the key to turn the lock after installation. After soaking in silicone spray to loosen it up and putting the tailgate back together, I read the last sentence in step 5: "Back off the bolts if the lock does't turn freely..."

In the Army they used to drill it in: GTGDP! Someday I will learn.
Good luck with the Pop & Lock, brooktondale. May I ask what the going price is?
 
#36 ·
Wow! :eek: I know P&L upped their prices back in September, but that's way higher than the price I was quoted by them. No wonder you got free shipping.

If I was to run another Group Buy and assuming there has been no price increase since Sept '08, the cost would be $55, shipped. That also assumes the Group Buy would be for over 50 units. The original Group Buy was around $42, shipped.

Thanks, brooktondale. Maybe this information will spur on another Group Buy. :)
 
#37 ·
I would definitly purchase a pop and lock. You can put me on the list. That is not a bad price at all. I am about to purchase a Bak flip in the next few weeks as a late X-mas gift.
 
#40 ·
I bought a Pop & Lock for my Ridgeline from www.streetsideauto.com out of Kansas City, Kansas. It was $62.03 with free Fed Ex ground shipping and they shipped it the same day. I got it today and installed it in a little over an hour. It works and looks great.

I also had a bit of a struggle with the tailgate cap. I tried to put it back on the reverse of the way it came off, but I couldn't get all the clips to slide in properly. So I removed all the clips from the gate and slid them on to the cap with the help of a pair of pliers. I was then able to line up the clips with the holes in the gate and pop them in place.

My G2 BakFlip cover is on its way. I bought it on ebay from Fast Lane USA Store (Elkhart, Indiana) on a "Buy it Now" auction for $694.99 including free freight. They had great reviews, so I trust everything will arrive as promised. I'm anxious to do that install now.
 
#41 ·
No surprise that the PnL has gone up since Joe got us the group buy. Interesting to see that folks are paying about twice what we paid with the initial group buy. One again, thanks Joe! I couldn't be more pleased with my PnL.
 
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